03 Grand Cherokee Overland Build

[tsteb112]

Overview:

Going to make a build thread to document building my swing away tire carrier on my 03 Overland. I’m planning on cutting out a part of the rear crossmember to weld in doubled up 2x2x 3/16” square tube to strengthen it that area and weld through shackle mounts. These will stick through the stock bumper cover. The spindle will be on the passenger side with the latch on the driver side. The tire is going to be offset closer to the spindle for weight stress purposes and on the left I will make a cargo rack eventually for jerry cans, water or whatever else. I would like to have the spare tire angled to the rear window with enough room under the tire to install the license plate light and plate. I might have enough room under it with the tire vertical but won’t know for sure yet.

Parts:
I ordered my tire carrier kit from EMS off-road.-$100

I also bought the t handle and plate from comp4x4 to stock the tire from rotating all around freely. $40

24’ 2x2x 3/16” square tube-~$110

Sold 9’ to a buddy and bought a 2x4x.120 Wall for $45 plus shipping from metal depot

I’ll post a link here once I get going.


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[tsteb112]

Yesterday I ordered a 8 bolt led lights fir rock lights and a trailer license plate light for the license plate because it’ll be mounted on the tire carrier.


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[tsteb112]

Worked on the tire carrier some this week. It’s been slow with the weather but so far so good. The angle is welded to the hitch mounts and the 2x4 will be welded to the angle and tacked to the crossmember. The bumper cover still fits over everything so that’s a big plus.

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[StuntmanMike]

Great build! I love the WJ's, the last of the capable Grand Cherokees. I used to have a 97 ZJ lifted 3.5" on 31's, and that thing surprised a lot of people with where it could go and what it could do.

I'm thinking of building a more trail oriented rig, and the WJ is on my list. I'd go the route that you did, with the Overland or at least the LTD, to get the V8 with the Variloc diffs. I feel like that's the next best thing to being fully locked, and buying one so equipped is very cost effective when compared to the cost of adding 2 lockers or ltd slips after the fact.

How's the reliability of the H.O. been for you so far? Also, does it require premium fuel?

 

[tsteb112]

Great build! I love the WJ's, the last of the capable Grand Cherokees. I used to have a 97 ZJ lifted 3.5" on 31's, and that thing surprised a lot of people with where it could go and what it could do.

I'm thinking of building a more trail oriented rig, and the WJ is on my list. I'd go the route that you did, with the Overland or at least the LTD, to get the V8 with the Variloc diffs. I feel like that's the next best thing to being fully locked, and buying one so equipped is very cost effective when compared to the cost of adding 2 lockers or ltd slips after the fact.

How's the reliability of the H.O. been for you so far? Also, does it require premium fuel?

I enjoy it. Plenty of power and torque. I’ve pulled trailers and it’s not bad. I’m considering a heavy duty transmission oil cooler because It gets hot occasionally. The engine does burn some oil and leak some via the valve gaskets so check those when buying. It’s a greatly capable vehicle with some bigger tires and more ground clearance. And it recommends premium but I use regular. Currently near 190k I think

I’m hoping I get this job after my final interview this week which would make this a trail rig. I’m planning a 3 link front, 4 link rear, 6-8” lift and 35s with some more trimming possibly.

 

[tsteb112]

Update on the tire carrier. Burned in mostly everything. Test fit everything and the 2x4 clears. The spindle is welded in and the swing out arm follows the same lines as the 2x4.

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[Ronald Miranda]

Just one observation, try to locate the tire as close to the pivot as possible, in this way, the horizontal load on the support would be less. however, it would block you more the vision of the mirror, if you have any.

Anyway, I like how the project is doing. very clean and simple.

You should write the measures for those who wants to copy your work!! (ME, cough cough)

 

[tsteb112]

Just one observation, try to locate the tire as close to the pivot as possible, in this way, the horizontal load on the support would be less. however, it would block you more the vision of the mirror, if you have any.

Anyway, I like how the project is doing. very clean and simple.

You should write the measures for those who wants to copy your work!! (ME, cough cough)

Yeah the plan for the tire to be offset the the right and following the lines of the window. The left side will have the jerry can rack.


Today we fabbed up some brackets to mount up the isolator and latch and burned in everything. We also drilled the holes to mount the bumper carrier to the hitch. This allows the whole thing to be removable in 1,2 or 3 pieces. The swing arm, 2x4 and the hitch are all independent but tied together. Here are the pictures from today. Any questions please shoot.

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[Ronald Miranda]

Great!! It looks awesome!

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[tsteb112]

Great!! It looks awesome!

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Thank you. I’m getting excited


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[tsteb112]

I’m looking to get a welder when I move out of the apartment. I can’t wait to do stuff like this on my own. It’s cool to see how everything takes shape.


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[Ronald Miranda]

Yeah! Build something like that, on your own. That's the reward. And if you can make profit from it... even better. Lol

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[tsteb112]

Lately I’ve been working on the tire carrier but the other day decided to improve me electronics/accessory wiring so I pulled all the wires that I ran initially and built a switch plate for the little useless cubby. The plate is just aluminum and I got the 12 switches on eBay. They are going to be be powered by a Blue Sea distribution block that I just got in last night.

Question for anyone with knowledge of electronics... the switches say 20A on the side. I have 3 rows of 4. Each row is piggy backed to the switch beside it. Does this mean for 4 switches they draw 80A?

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[Ronald Miranda]

yup, 80A will be the max. Amp. Output for row.
But you can put a 60A Fuse, to keep it safe at 75%.

 

[tsteb112]

yup, 80A will be the max. Amp. Output for row.
But you can put a 60A Fuse, to keep it safe at 75%.

After talking to a few others they have said that the switches can handle 20A but don’t require 20A because they are just lighting the little LED indicator. If I’m running something that has more than 20A I’ll use a relay too


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[Ronald Miranda]

After talking to a few others they have said that the switches can handle 20A but don’t require 20A because they are just lighting the little LED indicator. If I’m running something that has more than 20A I’ll use a relay too


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Of course, if you connect a aux fan or a compressor you will require at least 15A and you will need relays!
Even for the light, I used relays, just to be safe.

 

[tsteb112]

Worked on the tire carrier and wiring up the switch panel and fuse box yesterday. The box is going under the center console where there is an empty space. All wires run through the transmission tunnel. I just need to ground them and I’ll be good to go. I’ll post pictures when done.
We have two more pieces to weld up to finish the tire carrier, then gusset it and add dimple dies to the gussets and build a jerry can rack. The bar in the middle won’t be there when done. It was just to get the top piece level.

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[Ronald Miranda]

looking very very very good!!

 

[tsteb112]

Today I finished up the switch panel. The fuse box is under the center console. The power wire to the battery I ran through the grommet by the brake booster. All the wires are run through the transmission tunnel.

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[stickel]

Nice! Are you going to whip out the label maker for those switches or will it be like a memory game ;)