Buying a Vehicle for Overlanding

[Dilldog]

If you think you'll want to travel outside of the US and Canada stay well clear of diesel. Or build an older non common rail injection, non after treatment equipped powered rig. If you want to talk about this more I'm more than happy to, I just don't want yo derail your thread.
Honestly though, if it were me, F250, gas v8, extended cab, short box. One of the service trucks I used for field work was an extended cab shortbox 250, it had TONS of room. That would also keep costs down a bit. But if you think you need the extra payload a 350 will give you then get one. But drive train wise, the 250 and 350 (with single rear wheels) can be spaced the same.

 

[Billiebob]

What you have there would be the most doable option for me. I've looked at many design ideas for that kind of camper. I would mock fit everything before buying them to see if everything can be worked in. The hard part would be preparing it for very cold weather if I was ever to get stuck someplace where it's -20 degrees out.

Are diesels more expensive to repair? You guys are starting to change my mind on diesels. Military surplus vehicles maybe? Where to buy them?

Check out these videos from a guy who has done it for years

 

[Dilldog]

Here's another thing, parts and expertise. You will have break downs and you will need parts. Selecting a vehicle should take that into account. For North America it's hard to beat the Super Duty Ford and Modular V8. But for Global I don't think you can do better than Land Cruisers...

 

[Sailmike]

That truck I posted in my last post, what are those called?

Dilldog, what is this you were talking about:
Or build an older non common rail injection, non after treatment equipped powered rig.

Thanks!

 

[M Rose]

That truck I posted in my last post, what are those called?

Dilldog, what is this you were talking about:
Or build an older non common rail injection, non after treatment equipped powered rig.

Thanks!

A direct injection diesel, like the Ford 6.9 and 7.3 found in the 1980’s to mid 1990s.

 

[Oregon_trail]

So I have a new Ram with a 8 foot bed and although having a slightly shorter bed would be nice unless you get in super tight areas there isn’t anything you can’t do still. I will also say that I’ve never driven a ford or Chevy that has the turning radius that Ram trucks do. I am new to overlanding but not to having my trucks on roads and trials I find myself on in my travels and I’ve always used long beds. Also ask yourself what overlanding is to you really because some people go overlanding and it’s basically a couple day wheeling trip and others it’s distance Where you can make 150 miles or more off road or even on road. Everyone’s travels will be different and risk factor. I usually get hours away and try and get remote so I’m not going to put myself in a spot where I’m risking my truck Amd so therefore a long box or full size in general is amazing.

 

[MazeVX]

If you are really sure about going to Europe, your best truck option is a Ford ranger. If you need fullsize than go for a ram, ram is the most sold and imported in Europe and you will find parts and people with knowledge.
Unless you are driving to a old remote village, fullsize won't be a problem but stay out of big cities, you won't find a place to park.
If you have further questions about Europe, don't hesitate to ask me or our European member reps/director.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

ram is the most sold and imported in Europe

I wonder, is that due to the Fiat connection, or is it just style and good taste?

 

[MazeVX]

I wonder, is that due to the Fiat connection, or is it just style and good taste?

It's probably because of the importing company that has contracts with FCA since almost ever. So it's relatively easy with warranty and parts compared to other direct imported vehicles.
Keeps the price lower since the importing company spend less for warranty insurance etc.
Chevrolet is hilarious expensive here...

 

[Alanymarce]

Some good points made about diesels; however, I have never yet been unable to find petrol/gasoline (except for Venezuela, where they're in a different world). Petrol/gasoline-powered motorbikes are everywhere so there are fuel stations everywhere. Yes, diesel-powered trucks are everywhere as well, however I've seen situations in which diesel was either not available at all, or rationed.

The fuel consumption is the big difference, and this is why many prefer diesels. However, once again, I've never yet been in a situation where I couldn't carry enough petrol/gasoline to have the range I needed (or diesel when using a diesel-powered vehicle).

I prefer petrol/gasoline principally because I am not a fan of handling diesel compared to petrol/gasoline.

Lastly, if OP plans to visit certain cities in an increasing number of countries, diesel is either banned already, or will be in the next few years. Yes, one can park the vehicle outside the city and take a 'bus, however I prefer the flexibility of being able to drive right into the museum, art gallery, market, or workshop.

 

[Sailmike]

Some of you have suggested I get an older vehicle. Won’t newer vehicles have fewer problems?

 

[rgallant]

@Sailmike yes newer vehicles have less problems but they are heavily "computerized" which can leave you stranded or in "limp Mode" just because a computer or sensor failed. And most of them require manufacturer specific code readers to determine the nature of the fault, not an issue in major cities but some smaller places can be. It is always a balancing act.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

@MMc size is not that much of an issue, nor are parts if his plan is Canada & the US. I would recommend just a good solid pickup and camper. To my mind one of the Alaskan Style are ideal, Alaskan Campers they keep the roof line low

Thats a winner if he can afford one.

 

[MMc]

Thats a winner if he can afford one.

I think he wants to build a camper. If I was going to go with a drop top style camper it would be a winterized pop top over a Alaska. Those things are heavy.

 

[Alanymarce]

@Sailmike yes newer vehicles have less problems but they are heavily "computerized" which can leave you stranded or in "limp Mode" just because a computer or sensor failed. And most of them require manufacturer specific code readers to determine the nature of the fault, not an issue in major cities but some smaller places can be. It is always a balancing act.

Absolutely:

- we used a brand new Nissan X Trail i for South America - zero problems (although we did find that the exact model was not sold in Chile and MERCOSUR so when we had the alignment done in the area they didn't have the right specifications.
- for Africa we used a 1997 LC80 - we had a number of issues simply associated with its age - an electrical fault (took a while to fix - finally sorted in Victoria Falls), the main radiator blew up (predicted by a mechanic in Durban), the A/C fan motor wore out (had to order one from Dubai and it took 3 weeks to arrive), we cracked the front cross member (welded temporarily in Ngorongoro, properly in Dar es Salaam), the front differential gave up (replaced in Kampala - subsequently a wheel bearing seized as a result of not being OEM, and was replaced at Mt Elgon). All part of the trip and not unexpected on a 20 year old vehicle.
- for Australia we used our 3 year old Montero, bought new - zero problems.

Other 4x4 vehicles I've owned ranged from a few years old to new, and I've had no problems with any of them. The oldest (at purchase) was a 7 year old Peugeot 404 Estate in Southern Africa - zero problems. Various Land Rovers owned by friends, between 18 months old and several years old (the LRs, not the friends), have needed more or less constant fixing to stay running.

So, at least in our experience, new vehicles have been free of any problems. Having said this, if we were to have an electronic nervous breakdown it might be a bigger problem than a mechanical breakdown. A balancing act indeed.

 

[Dilldog]

That truck I posted in my last post, what are those called?

Dilldog, what is this you were talking about:
Or build an older non common rail injection, non after treatment equipped powered rig.

Thanks!

Modern diesels run what is called common rail injection. This is a system where a pump ramps pressures up to 35,000 or so psi and supplies a rail that all injectors are hooked up to. The injectors themselves are just electric solenoids that operate according to ECM output. The issues are that these systems are engineered to run with a specific fuel additive set. Each major region of the world has it's own fuel specific based on the emissions requirements of the government. You can get around this by carrying fuel additive like Stanadyne. However the real issue is with exhaust after treatment. This is a series of filters and catalysts in the exhaust. If you run high sulfur diesel (like what is produced and sold in Central and South America, Africa, and the Middle East) it will damage the system. Now it wouldn't be that big of a deal except for the ECM will detect this and can shut the engine down. There really isn't a way around that short of doing a delete, but I haven't heard of many deleted rings being very reliable, mostly because you need to run illegal software in the ECM to do this so it causes issues in the computer. Also once you do that a dealership will not be able to work on your rig until they revert the emissions system back to factory settings.

 

[Dilldog]

I should add that old school mechanical diesel engines will run on just about anything. My old 1966 International runs on 90% waste oil and 10% kerosene, my 93 Cummins powered Dodge ran 15% waste oil 85% pump fuel. And yes waste oil is what you're thinking, drain the oil out of the engine for a change, and the old oil goes into my fuel tanks.

 

[Oregon_trail]

That truck I posted in my last post, what are those called?

Dilldog, what is this you were talking about:
Or build an older non common rail injection, non after treatment equipped powered rig.

Thanks!

Modern diesels run what is called common rail injection. This is a system where a pump ramps pressures up to 35,000 or so psi and supplies a rail that all injectors are hooked up to. The injectors themselves are just electric solenoids that operate according to ECM output. The issues are that these systems are engineered to run with a specific fuel additive set. Each major region of the world has it's own fuel specific based on the emissions requirements of the government. You can get around this by carrying fuel additive like Stanadyne. However the real issue is with exhaust after treatment. This is a series of filters and catalysts in the exhaust. If you run high sulfur diesel (like what is produced and sold in Central and South America, Africa, and the Middle East) it will damage the system. Now it wouldn't be that big of a deal except for the ECM will detect this and can shut the engine down. There really isn't a way around that short of doing a delete, but I haven't heard of many deleted rings being very reliable, mostly because you need to run illegal software in the ECM to do this so it causes issues in the computer. Also once you do that a dealership will not be able to work on your rig until they revert the emissions system back to factory settings.

you haven’t? I’ve hear nothing but good out of deleted rigs because the emissions systems are pretty much awful for your truck.

 

[Oregon_trail]

I should add that old school mechanical diesel engines will run on just about anything. My old 1966 International runs on 90% waste oil and 10% kerosene, my 93 Cummins powered Dodge ran 15% waste oil 85% pump fuel. And yes waste oil is what you're thinking, drain the oil out of the engine for a change, and the old oil goes into my fuel tanks.

So you know new deleted trucks will do the same right?

 

[Dilldog]

So you know new deleted trucks will do the same right?

Not nearly as well as mechanical. Common rail systems are MUCH less tolerant of contamination. And yeah, at least half of the deleted rigs I see have weird ghost issues in the ECMs from the illegal software required to run a delete. On new multiplexed electrical systems I have seen delete software cause the door locks not to work, I'm not kidding at all. Also did I mention it's illegal? Because it is, and if the EPA cracks down on light duty like they are on heavy duty that means your truck goes to the crusher and you get a $15,000 fine, and the shop that did the delete gets the same, and even the individual that removed the parts gets to pay the same fine. Really not worth it.
Edit to add: at the end of the day you can do what ever you want, I'm just giving advice to help keep people out of trouble, and give information so they can accurately weigh pros and cons.