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Nomad, many of the Australian overlander youtubers use them. Ronny Dahl had a few meals cooked in one. Lot of truckers use them, they sell them at all the truck stops. You could google trucker forums and find more info.

The OP posted elsewhere that he was out now. Unfortunately, he didn't post to the thread where he said he was stuck, so I am reporting it.

No idea what your 2 word question means. Since I said supply watts above, I'll reiterate that. Many times ports you purchase do not actually supply the watts they are rated for. Due to small internal wires, weak connections, whatever. Car cigarette ports especially, they are a 12-14V device...

I bought this 12v power box with 11 ports, tested the ports and did a review. This might be a good all in one dc port solution for folks that want to just hook up an inexpensive 12v LiFePO4 lithium battery and run all their dc camper stuff. Plenty of ports for fan, lights, heater, blanket...

An ARE or Leer is $3000, then when you add a decent window about $3400. Then you have a camper shell, which like everyone else, you will hate and sell cheap in a few years. You can't get to anything, can't stand up, etc. Do your Dad a favor and point him to a popup or wedge truck camper...

4awg is even better, and for a 20ft run, 40ft circuit, the right choice, nice! Good idea on video, fuse sizing is easy to mess up. In meantime, here is a general ruleset: 1. Size the wire to be able to carry the max possible amps your load could demand continuously. 2. Put a fuse or circuit...

People get confused on picking the right size wires to feed a camping house battery from an alternator dc dc charger. Things like total circuit length, voltage drop, the right DC ampacity charts, etc. So I made a quick video for a Tacoma on finding the right wire size.

Hahaaaa, I am gonna steal this and use it, classic!!

Indeed, but this video is a good example of ignoring multiple warnings and issues until catastrophe. Also Wow... worst presentation ever. 2 min of content crammed into 48 min! Not attacking him, again kudos for speaking up , but Dude needs to edit it and stop trying to make excuses for 48...

Nice, @smritte . What type vehicle is that? The latches look nice.

Yep, thx ;)

Lol, well, I just searched again and found that one. I can see whybI missed it, I never would have expected to find electrical under "Overland Q&A". I looked in General and Gear apparently. Will give it a look thx

A critical area for overlanders is the power systems including solar, power stations, batteries, inverters, etc. Currently there is no forum for this, people just post stuff in their build threads or General Overland. It would improve these forums to have a Solar/Electrical sub-forum.

Great post

I have the same setup ;)

Nope, you are correct. Problem is indeed actual quantifying of propane used, which is why real world tests of accomplishing actual cooking tasks, then weighing propane left, is best method I can guesstimate. Like you, I am trying to be able to do electric cooking. However, the issue is that...

Great info! You sound like you might like my testing post for how much Watt-hrs used by various cooking devices. Here is a link...

Good info, very useful, thx! So 200Ah and a 55A charger. Interesting. I have a Tune, so very similar to Alu-Cab canopy camper. I have a 1536 Watt-hr power station, so 1.2Ah, and a 100Ah 12v battery. Also a 3072 Watt-hrs expansion battery, so 360 or 460Ah if needed. Sounds like I have...

Interesting, but kind of like clickbait a bit? The absolute key with induction is how much battery you have to use. A 20lb propane bottle holds the same energy as 95 100Ah 12v lithium batteries. Ninety five. A small 1 lb propane bottle is the same as 4.75 100Ah 12v batteries, 475Ah...

You are definitely correct in running wires at front, way less slop to handle. I don't have Alu-Cab but have a Tune, however have been doing a lot of wiring. I would mount the 230ah battery up front on floor, against pickup cab wall, to distribute that big weight properly and keep center of...