X-Bull Recovery Tracks...another inexpensive alternative

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RainGoat

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I think you hit the nail on the head. With now so many different renditions of similar or exact copies, the only variable seems to be the material they are being made from. This is why I went with a X-BULL copy by ORCISH. It used virgin plastic/nylon vs recycled plastic /nylon. Seemed to get better reviews and was touted by ORCISH as of course being a better product. Time and use will be where the rubber hits the road on these, but the price was too good to pass up,, considering the retail price variations of all these boards on the market.

At one time I had considered the Smitty's, but as you mentioned, they were getting horrible reviews and I have not seen or heard of any improvements in their durability. And I might add, the price has creep-ed up, as has many recovery boards on the market. MY OPINION: If any company decides to release a version with the MAX-TRAX durability reputation, while keeping it at the $100.00 mark, they will corner the market.

EDIT: picture of the ones I got in olive greenView attachment 106811Came with a bag & tethers. Amazon=$98.99, E-Bay=$69.90 right now!
Totally agree, that’s a very useful post. Thanks!
 

Maverick1701

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Seek Adventure on youtube did a comparison video of these vs maxtrax. If the video was meant to show how great maxtrax was, it ended up being a great sales tool for x-bull because they performed so well (see the comments). After seeing how well they performed the video sold me on buying a set of x-bull tracks.

Here's the video:
 

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Seek Adventure on youtube did a comparison video of these vs maxtrax. If the video was meant to show how great maxtrax was, it ended up being a great sales tool for x-bull because they performed so well (see the comments). After seeing how well they performed the video sold me on buying a set of x-bull tracks.

Here's the video:
I saw that video, and was what led me to the X-Bull in the first place. Up until that time all the reviews and pictures I saw showed fractures and outright failures similar to what the Smittys were experiencing. Seeing that test by Seek Adventure and then the Orsich video made it easier when it came to me purchasing recovery boards.

I am hoping my heavy truck being close to 4.5 ton plus, will not overtax the design limits of the 10 ton product. The vehicle Micheal in Seek Adventure used was smaller and lighter. The bridging aspect is where these might have problems unless you double them up. Then the question of a 2nd set comes into play. Having 4 over 2 then presents the question of transportabity...aka...storage, as I am still exploring bracket mounting options for 2, not 4. All the options for a commercial made product are gonna cost, and I have yet to find a similar option with more than a 3 or 4 dollar difference. Either for the cheaper renditions, or the gen 3 upgrade versions. MSRP seems to be locked fairly tightly. The homemade idea can and might be the option I go with. It is the flared specialty nut of the TRED 800-1100 version that I want, that keeps me from going the 'homemade' route. I want that TRED convenience, and not have to risk a handful of parts being lost in the dirt.
 
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Baipin

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I saw that video, and was what led me to the X-20bull in the first place. Up until that time all the reviews and pictures I saw showed fractures and outright failures similar to what the Smittys were experiencing. Seeing that test by Seek Adventure and then the Orsich video made it easier when it came to me purchasing recovery boards.

I am hoping my heavy truck being close to 4.5 ton plus, will not overtax the design limits of the 10 ton product. The vehicle Micheal in Seek Adventure used was smaller and lighter. The bridging aspect is where these might have problems unless you double them up. Then the question of a 2nd set comes into play. Having 4 over 2 then presents the question of transportabity...aka...storage, as I am still exploring bracket mounting options for 2, not 4. All the options for a commercial made product are gonna cost, and I have yet to find a similar option with more than a 3 or 4 dollar difference. Either for the cheaper renditions, or the gen 3 upgrade versions. MSRP seems to be locked fairly tightly. The homemade idea can and might be the option I go with. It is the flared specialty nut that keeps me from going that route. I want that convenience, and not have to risk a handful of parts being lost in the dirt.
Looking at pics of the recovery that broke one of my X-Bull boards, it seems the weakness is if a tire runs over the board while the board cannot be compressed anymore along its width (the side of the board facing outwards from the vehicle is raised on a rock or something, while the side facing inwards was on the ground, and there's no support in the middle; it was held only by the lengthwise edges. The tire basically sheared the board lengthwise when it pushed down on the unsupported middle portion.

Excuse the crappy drawing, but you could do something like this for your roof rack:



Have a carriage bolt going through the holes in the boards, which is secured to your roofrack or whatever has a hole in it. Add a screw-on knob to retain the boards, and thin aircraft cable to retain the knob itself. Just make sure the cable is long enough so the knob can still be unscrewed!
 
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Desert Runner

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Looking at pics of the recovery that broke one of my X-Bull boards, it seems the weakness is if a tire runs over the board while the board cannot be compressed anymore along its width (the side of the board facing outwards from the vehicle is raised on a rock or something, while the side facing inwards was on the ground, and there's no support in the middle; it was held only by the lengthwise edges. The tire basically sheared the board lengthwise when it pushed down on the unsupported middle portion.

Excuse the crappy drawing, but you could do something like this for your roof rack:



Have a carriage bolt going through the holes in the boards, which is secured to your roofrack or whatever has a hole in it. Add a screw-on knob to retain the boards, and thin aircraft cable to retain the knob itself. Just make sure the cable is long enough so the knob can still be unscrewed!
Looking at pics of the recovery that broke one of my X-Bull boards, it seems the weakness is if a tire runs over the board while the board cannot be compressed anymore along its width (the side of the board facing outwards from the vehicle is raised on a rock or something, while the side facing inwards was on the ground, and there's no support in the middle; it was held only by the lengthwise edges. The tire basically sheared the board lengthwise when it pushed down on the unsupported middle portion.

Excuse the crappy drawing, but you could do something like this for your roof rack:



Have a carriage bolt going through the holes in the boards, which is secured to your roof-rack or whatever has a hole in it. Add a screw-on knob to retain the boards, and thin aircraft cable to retain the knob itself. Just make sure the cable is long enough so the knob can still be unscrewed!
If you watch the various You-Tube videos when these or other brands are used, there seem to be 2 methods used. I'm not sure if it is laziness, or what, but you see them placed either at a extreme angle of 55 degrees or so, with that fulcrum you mentioned, or at a gentler 40-45 degree angle where it is better supported underneath as the tire climbs the board. This could be a key on how they fair with different users, and explain some of the durability variances many of us have commented on. So my conclusion would be to take a little more time and clean out the area the tires and boards will go, thus supporting the recovery board as it reaches the half-way point on the tires climb out. This probably is also more important, the heavier the rig is!

On the board mounting question, I have a open pickup bed, no rack, so i was contemplating a mount on the top of my bed tool-box for 1 set, and leaving the 2nd (if I get them) in their transport bag for backup.....still weighing my options.
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EDIT: 07/10/19
*** Saw a you-tuber post a walk around at the Expo-West and saw a mounting solution that would probably work. It looks like the boards were mounted longitudinally (horizontally) along the inside of the bed. Half of the board was above the bed rail, and the lower half was in the bed.

I think using 2 camper shell clamps, the recovery boards could be attached via some flat metal pieces to those clamps. It would allow a on/off mount that could not be removed while the boards were mounted due to not having access to the clamping bolts! ....Comments, Input?......The best part would be no drilling holes in either my truck, or some other piece of gear onboard.

PS: .......On posting 147 below, Mud brings a whole new variable to the table. My response reflects a sand recovery and/or a dirt recovery. Have done the 10 minute ATV mud thrill, only to spend 3+ hours with a pressure washer getting the mud off the Quad....something I now try to avoid. :fearful: Baipin's mud recovery is an example of needing recovery boards and being able to self-extract with the proper gear when alone. STILL, ......I imagine that was a long all day process, as that mud looks downright Nasty. Glad it all worked out.:grinning:
 
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Baipin

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If you watch the various You-Tube videos when these or other brands are used, there seem to be 2 methods used. I'm not sure if it is laziness, or what, but you see them placed either at a extreme angle of 55 degrees or so, with that fulcrum you mentioned, or at a gentler 40-45 degree angle where it is better supported underneath as the tire climbs the board. This could be a key on how they fair with different users, and explain some of the durability variances many of us have commented on. So my conclusion would be to take a little more time and clean out the area the tires and boards will go, thus supporting the recovery board as it reaches the half-way point on the tires climb out. This probably also more important, the heavier the rig is!

On the board mounting question, I have a open pickup bed, no rack, so i was contemplating a mount on the top of my bed tool-box for 1 set, and leaving the 2nd (if I get them) in their transport bag for backup.....still weighing my options.
Yup, digging is the key. I even did this with a fair bit of digging and 1 broken board that I didn't get around to replacing yet:

107272

It was about 2-3 ft of mud/clay in the deepest part; so bad that a tractor nearby got bogged down for 5+ hours. Yet these boards - even with 1 broken one - handled it like a champ.
 
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titicaca

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Looking at pics of the recovery that broke one of my X-Bull boards, it seems the weakness is if a tire runs over the board while the board cannot be compressed anymore along its width (the side of the board facing outwards from the vehicle is raised on a rock or something, while the side facing inwards was on the ground, and there's no support in the middle; it was held only by the lengthwise edges. The tire basically sheared the board lengthwise when it pushed down on the unsupported middle portion.
Interesting observation on how they break - unsupported bridging side-to-side. I went with a 4 set of RUGCEL (Smittybuilt clone) - the teeth look and feel very aggressive! Can't wait to use them! I have a question on how they should be used. Looking at the Amazon picture demo RUGCEL has them upside-down in ramp over rocks scenario. This is contrary to how other traction boards are used. But it makes sense as they would naturally bend easier that way, both length wise and side-to-side, thus avoiding unsupported bridging that may cause a crack. Any thoughts on this?
A1LGuiJREGL._SL1500_.jpg91K3intZq2L._SL1500_.jpg
 

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Retinens803

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Just got my set from amazon. These things smell of Harbor Freight. Put them and the bag outside for UV rays to help with the stench, hopefully.
 

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Just got my set from amazon. These things smell of Harbor Freight. Put them and the bag outside for UV rays to help with the stench, hopefully.
Very interesting. The 2 pairs i received (2 separate orders-1 pair each) had no Oder to them by ORCICH, the bag either. There was about 1.5 weeks between my purchases, so I would think they were in separate batches. I could see a Oder being a distraction if transported in an enclosed cabin....jeep/4runner, where external transport is not practicable.

Is that a 4 Runner in your Avatar?......If so, a external mounting on the roof rack is possible. The manufacturing smell should dissipate soon I would think, at least to a tolerable level.

YOU-TUBE.........title=
Ebay job X Bull - Recovery Tracks? ..........video by WORA....no direct link....


Good Luck on your plan.
 
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Retinens803

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It is a 4Runner I need to up date that thing! They came from X-Bull in CA. If the smell doesn’t dissipate, the roof rack will be here soon.

IMG_9173.JPG
 
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Desert Runner

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It is a 4Runner I need to up date that thing! They came from X-Bull in CA. If the smell doesn’t dissipate, the roof rack will be here soon.

View attachment 108229
If you decide to mount them externally, update us on how you mount them, homemade or commercial brackets exc. 'Rebel off-road' has the lowest price i have found for the TRED brackets....w/free shipping. A couple of other on-line shops had a close to or similar price, but didn't offer free shipping, as the total price (2x) was below their ...FREE...threshold shipping price. I'm really leaning towards this option.

https://jeep.rebeloffroad.com/v/vspfiles/photos/TRED11MK-2.jpg
 

Desert Runner

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Here's an alternative. They look like the ARB TREDPROS, right down to the differant cleat You will also notice the MAX-TRAX mounting grove for their style pins. These are $69.99 E-Bay....or.....around $120.00, E-Bay, depending on who is offering them. A 5 year warranty also, so they are the same price I paid for the X-Bull knock-off from Orsich I got. 1563828544804.png1563828623270.png1563828665269.png
Pair of Recovery Track Green Black New Generation Emergency Off Road Traction


$69.52
Free Shipping

EDIT:
First time I have seen a DOT certified notation. Not sure what that entails....mmm
 
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titicaca

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...I went with a 4 set of RUGCEL (Smittybuilt clone) - the teeth look and feel very aggressive! Can't wait to use them! I have a question on how they should be used. Looking at the Amazon picture demo RUGCEL has them upside-down in ramp over rocks scenario. This is contrary to how other traction boards are used. But it makes sense as they would naturally bend easier that way, both length wise and side-to-side, thus avoiding unsupported bridging that may cause a crack. Any thoughts on this?
So I got to use them to get relatives in a CR-V going places they probably shouldn't have. Used on hard ground to compensate for lack of clearance going over ruts. Used them upside-down, so, not bridging, but effectively that was the intention. Broke some teeth as they grabbed the hard earth/rocks. But got the job done. Not sure what to make of this, am I satisfied? In soft terrain the teeth would not break. Based on reviews concerns where they would snap on first use - they didn't.

The driver struggled to control wheel spin in the CR-V, no teeth got melted in upside-down ramp, just snapped underneath. Also, a bit disappointed in the AWD, one front wheel in air, and no power transfer to rear whatsoever, I was expecting a little something. Just glad I got a Jeep Wrangler.

P1090230small.JPGP1090159small.JPG
 
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RainGoat

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I don’t know anything about these, but for $60 on Amazon I’m tempted. I can always return them for free.
All the ones that look like the X-Bull are essentially identical. I’ve seen at least a dozen sets with a variety of names. All the ones that looked like X-Bull were the same. Same factory in China I bet.
 

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I got a set of X-bulls and have use them a few times on the beach. I came off one and melted a good portion of it getting out. I've got my money's worth from the digging they've prevented so it worked well enough. I'll get some pics and attach them here.
 

Desert Runner

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I got a set of X-bulls and have use them a few times on the beach. I came off one and melted a good portion of it getting out. I've got my money's worth from the digging they've prevented so it worked well enough. I'll get some pics and attach them here.
That is the point. The money ($$) you saved by bypassing a tow company, and fairly quickly being able to extract yourself vs hours of digging yourself out, the old fashioned way. You can not assume a would be rescuer will happen by, with the right gear to extract you, without possible damage to your vehicle, or using the proper technique.

I believe the Max-Trax replacement lug/studs (metal) will work as a fix. There are You-Tube videos showing how to do it.
 
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