Any recommendations which brand of relay/solenoid to use for a 12k winch power cutoff? The spec sheet says it pulls close to 400 amps at full load and I would like to avoid a melt down if I ever have to work it that hard.
I subscribe to the "there's no kill like over kill" theory. Had a buddy who's winch went active after taking a short bath, the aftermath wasn't pretty. Thanks for the info.Your winch already has relays. Just make sure they work. I'm pretty sure that Murphy has something to say about an isolation relay between your winch and battery.........
I just get out my 4mm wrench and disco the winch cable at my battery clamp. It's the cable that gets damaged and ruins your day. Hundreds of people have done what your thinking. All of their winches are connected directly to the battery now.
If you must, these isolator switches are proven:
HD-Series - Blue Sea Systems
Up to 600 Amps continuous rating for large diesel engines.www.bluesea.com
And the darn relay you asked for:
KODIAK INDUSTRIES INC.
www.kodiakinc.com
Another relay:
All ready have a 350amp inline, Just trying to prevent the possibility of unauthorized activation, nice mount.I put a 300A fuse inline with my Warn M8000. This way if the positive wire ends up shorting to the frame the fuse will hopefully blow before the truck burns down. The fuse is installed in a way that allows me to quickly bypass it if needed.
Picture is with the cover removed.
Expedition Master III
I wanted a switch. Having GM side mount cables, meant more time to loosen and remove vs top post mounts. Having a OEM dual battery setup without a Isolater just complicated the issue. Got mine off of Amazon, mounted on the top bumper wing of my ARB. It also helps with any parasitic currant draw when not being used.All ready have a 350amp inline, Just trying to prevent the possibility of unauthorized activation, nice mount.
Thanks, this would be option "B" for me. I going with a rocker activated solenoid. A pillar mounted with one that is master power for the bank, winch-compressor and inverter. No high draw without the key/engine on. Call me paranoid.I wanted a switch. Having GM side mount cables, meant more time to loosen and remove vs top post mounts. Having a OEM dual battery setup without a Isolater just complicated the issue. Got mine off of Amazon, mounted on the top bumper wing of my ARB. It also helps with any parasitic currant draw when not being used.
Fastronix High Current Master Battery Disconnect Switch with Face Plate
Size:2-Post