Traveler III
New bumper, skid plate and winch.
Last edited:
What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?
- Thread starter iamout
- Start date
Pioneer II
- 8,178
- First Name
- DALE
- Last Name
- FOLLETTE
- Member #
-
23055
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7JDA
- Service Branch
- US Army CWO (Ret)
Traveler III
TY. Really happy with the install. This is the most mechanical work I have done in decades. Was able to get it all installed without any help. Took me most of the day.
Enthusiast III
It may sound silly in our world of gearheads out here but and no offense to anybody but I cleaned deep cleaned and reorganized my rig because my rig is so small I really do have to keep it simple I donated a whole bunch of stuff
Lief_WJ
Rank III
Enthusiast III
I don't think it sounds silly! I get tired of getting dirty all the time working on my Jeep. Good job.
Inventor I
- 13,232
- First Name
- Bjoern
- Last Name
- Eldracher
- Member #
-
20111
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- DO3BE
The project rewiring of the 12 volt auxiliary electrics finally completed. Some time ago I had already installed a box for it in the side of the seat box. Now the rewiring was done. It is important to me that such a thing is done by someone who has learned and deals with it every day - only then it will be safe and good. I was able to win someone for the project who knows electrical engineering very well, has built numerous rally cars and made entire wiring harnesses for vehicles. And I think it turned out really well.
All fuses are now easily accessible from the outside (on the Defender the battery is located under the seat), the distribution is done via two bus bars inside the box, the compressor is wired separately with thick cable, so that there is also proper power. The last step was the label with the documentation of the wiring and the fuses, which I have glued on the flap. Now I'm looking for a good way to store spare fuses for the pre-fuse and the compressor fuse in the box (the smaller spare fuses are stored in the fuse box on the left).
A few photos...
All fuses are now easily accessible from the outside (on the Defender the battery is located under the seat), the distribution is done via two bus bars inside the box, the compressor is wired separately with thick cable, so that there is also proper power. The last step was the label with the documentation of the wiring and the fuses, which I have glued on the flap. Now I'm looking for a good way to store spare fuses for the pre-fuse and the compressor fuse in the box (the smaller spare fuses are stored in the fuse box on the left).
A few photos...
Influencer III
- 4,312
- First Name
- Rex
- Last Name
- Drake
- Member #
-
19540
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KI5GH
- Service Branch
- Air Force
Pioneer II
- 8,178
- First Name
- DALE
- Last Name
- FOLLETTE
- Member #
-
23055
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7JDA
- Service Branch
- US Army CWO (Ret)
WoW! That looks FANTASTIC. Looks totally factory, especially with the Data Plate!
Very Nice!
Influencer I
- 3,240
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Zimmer
- Member #
-
30139
- Service Branch
- USN (ret)
Finally finished my air compressor install. Works great.
Zim
Zim
Pioneer II
- 8,178
- First Name
- DALE
- Last Name
- FOLLETTE
- Member #
-
23055
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7JDA
- Service Branch
- US Army CWO (Ret)
Lief_WJ
Rank III
Enthusiast III
Looks good. Where in Missouri are you? I'm in the Kansas City area myself. I'm looking for others in my area to plan a trip.
Influencer I
- 3,240
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Zimmer
- Member #
-
30139
- Service Branch
- USN (ret)
I'm a full time traveler now and we're based out of Wildwood, Missouri. Would love to do some Mark Twain Forest trails. Probably around October or Maybe November.
I'm a Army Brat too so I'd fit in even as a squid. LMAO
Zim
Lief_WJ
Rank III
Enthusiast III
I was in the Navy. Mark Twain Forest is on my list.
Advocate I
Actually washed the D'max/FWC yesterday... doesn't happen much. Need to start diagnosing an intermittent issue with my ARB dual compressor. Sometimes it just won't turn on, on the S-Pod I see the amperage spike pretty high, then fall off to 0 and the S-Pod turns the circuit off. Sometimes it just turns on and works. Super annoying.
-TJ
-TJ
Influencer I
- 3,240
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Zimmer
- Member #
-
30139
- Service Branch
- USN (ret)
LOL OOOOps. Was looking at the CWO in DaleRF's post.
Zim
LED bulbs, saved 1000s rather than replacing the lamps themselves
Pioneer II
- 8,178
- First Name
- DALE
- Last Name
- FOLLETTE
- Member #
-
23055
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7JDA
- Service Branch
- US Army CWO (Ret)
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Joshua
- Last Name
- Downs
- Member #
-
20468
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KK6RBI / WQYH678
- Service Branch
- USMC 03-16, FIRE/EMS
Receiver hitch bolted to the draw bar. There is no official CJ2 towing capacity, but the military MB and M38 were rated for 1500 lbs cross-country and 2000 lbs on the road. And the civie CJ2s were rated for a 1200 lbs draw bar pull for agri work.
The most this will ever have to pull is a small flatbed or the M416, so well within that capacity. I also got the front lap belts put in. Still waiting on the upholstery shop to finish the rear bench seat before I put the rear belts in. Each of the bolts holding the hitch on to the draw bar are 3/4 inch grade 8 which have a proof load of 40,000 lbs and a shear strength of 50,000 lbs. To put that into perspective, that's about 18 CJ2s per bolt. I'm pretty sure the Jeep will break in half before the bolts fail. I figure 2 bolts/nuts are easy to take off when I want to use this in areas where departure angle might be an issue.
The most this will ever have to pull is a small flatbed or the M416, so well within that capacity. I also got the front lap belts put in. Still waiting on the upholstery shop to finish the rear bench seat before I put the rear belts in. Each of the bolts holding the hitch on to the draw bar are 3/4 inch grade 8 which have a proof load of 40,000 lbs and a shear strength of 50,000 lbs. To put that into perspective, that's about 18 CJ2s per bolt. I'm pretty sure the Jeep will break in half before the bolts fail. I figure 2 bolts/nuts are easy to take off when I want to use this in areas where departure angle might be an issue.
Pulled out the drop-in liner, cleaned the bed in preparation for a Bedrug (couldn't believe there's no rust after 16 years!):
Traveler III
I wish my truck bed looked that clean and rust free! lol
