OB Approved Using CO2 on the Trail

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HeliSniper

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Just wanted to clear some things up here. Air, Nitrogen, Oxygen, Argon, Helium, etc are normally stored in high pressure gas form (yes, I know there are exceptions but not that equate to traveling/Overlanding). Where as CO2 is normally stored as a liquid that vaporizes in the cylinder. This is why when you look at the volume of a normal scuba tank it says something like 80 cubic foot @ 3,300 psi. When referring to a CO2 tank you will see tanks listed as 5lbs., 10lbs., and 20lbs., because you are literally weighing the liquid in the tank.

The conversion rate from liquid to gas from a CO2 tank is one pound liquid = 8.741 cubic ft of gas, so a:
5lb CO2 cylider would hold 44 cu ft. @ 850psi
10lb CO2 cylider would hold 88 cu ft. @ 850psi
20lb CO2 cylider would hold 175 cu ft. @ 850psi

Also, under normal conditions a CO2 tanks pressure will never exceed 850psi. As you use the gas vapor off the top of the liquid, the liquid remaining vaporizes as you go until all the liquid has turned to gas. I find it funny to see 2 gauges (tank pressure & line pressure) on a CO2 system because the tank side will always read 850psi until it's all gone. You can regulate the pressure on the line side via tank regulator conected to the tank valve or with a combination tank regulator and in-line regulator. For example, I have a fixed 150psi regulator on my tank so when filling tires it gets all 150psi line-pressure to the schrader valve, but when using air tools I connect an inline regulator and dial the pressure back to 80-100psi depending on the rating of the tool. I use a digital luggage scale (looks like a handle with a hook on it) to weigh my cylinders to determine how much CO2 I have remaining in each tank. I have also seen people use deep-sea fishing scales with a dial. Any kind of weight scale will work. Just remember to weigh your empty tank with regulator and anything that will normally be on the tank (tare weight) so you can subtract it from what your tank weighs after filling and determining how much you have remaining while on the trail. I always write the tare weight on the tank with a Sharpie.

I just wanted to make it very clear to all that there is a big difference in carrying a 10lb. CO2 tank @ 850psi and a 80 cu.ft. Scuba tank (with Air, Nitrogen, Nitrox, or Argon) @ 3,300psi. While both look similar, both carry about the same cubic feet of gas, and both will scare the holy crap out of you if the valve gets knocked off, the high pressure 3,300psi is more apt to seriously harm or kill you. When I was working as a high-rise welder there are tunnels in New England that you cannot drive your welding truck through because you are carrying high pressure gas cylinders. Believe me, they are no joke if that valve gets hit. Just be careful and do your homework, know what you are putting in and on your rig!! And for goodness sake, have fun.........

The advantage that CO2 has always had over a compressor is speed. You can fill your tires in a fraction of the time using a CO2 tank over a compressor. But I also use it to so much more, filling air mattresses, pressurizing my Road Shower, blowing out the tent before closing, running all my air tools, and also filling tires. But the slow compressor will always be a good backup and for those extended trips.

Ok. What is the smallest CO2 tank that can inflate four 37s from 0psi to 30psi? Space is at premium so I am asking for the smallest. Thx.

Need more data:
What is the rest of the tire size, ie. 37 x 12.5 x 15 or simular....?
I assume you want to start at zero because you will be putting a new tire on a wheel on the trail?

37/12.5/17. I'm now on 315/17 but planning ahead.
Inflate pressure from 15psi to 30psi on trail but I said from 0psi for some reserve just in case (ie. seat a bead).
I am looking at minimal space/volume, the smallest co2 tank. I do have an arb compressor under the hood for backup.

The formula for it’s volume is R squared times D times PI squared, where R is the Radius of the doughnut and D is the diameter from the center of the doughnut across the hole to the center of the doughnut on the other side.

Say your tire is a 37 - 12.5 - 17. The tire is about 12.5 inches across at the sidewall, so R is 6.25. The diameter from the center of the sidewall across the hub is about 22 inches. So the volume of the tire is 6 times 6 times 22 times 9.8696…, but 9.9 will work fine. That calculates to 7841 cubic inches. Divide by 1728, the number of cubic inches in a cubic foot, and you get a tire volume of about 4.5 cubic feet. Of course you can work entirely in cubic inches, too.

To figure out how much air it takes to inflate it, it is easiest to think in atmospheres, or multiples of atmospheric pressure of about 15 PSI. If you shove 4.5 cubic feet of air into your tire, the pressure will go up by 1 atmosphere, or 15 PSI. If you want to air up from 10 PSI to 25 PSI, put in 4.5 cubic feet. To bring it up from totally flat to 25 PSI, or increase pressure by 1.67 atmospheres (25/15), will take about 7.5 cubic feet – 4.5 times 1.67.

And how big a tank do you need? Lets say you want to air up your 4.5 cubic foot tires from 15 PSI to 30 PSI. That’s an increase of 1 atmospheres (15/15), so you need 18 cubic feet of air (1 X 4.5 X 4). If you fill your tank to 150 PSI, that’s 10 atmospheres. Air will stop going into the tire when the tank pressure equals the tire pressure of 30 PSI, or 2 atmospheres, so you have 8 atmospheres available. Subtracting one more atmosphere will leave about 15 PSI in the tank when you finish, so with a reserve you have 7 atmospheres usable. Consequently it will take a 2.57 cubic foot tank (18 / 7). ~ calculations from Jim_Lou from off-road.com and modified by me to meet your criteria.

The conversion rate from liquid to gas from a CO2 tank is one pound liquid = 8.741 cubic ft of gas, so a:
5lb CO2 cylider would hold 44 cu ft. @ 850psi
10lb CO2 cylider would hold 88 cu ft. @ 850psi
20lb CO2 cylider would hold 175 cu ft. @ 850psi

So, for every pound of CO2 you would get 3.4 fills (4 tires from 15psi to 30psi) ie (8.741 / 2.57).
Or, a 5lb CO2 cylinder would give you 17 fills (4 tires from 15psi to 30psi) ie (8.741 * 5 / 2..57).
 

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Don't waste your money on fancy regulators with a gauge to measure the tank pressure. Pressure holds steady for the most part until the tank is empty. They also tend to freeze up when used. The simple fixed regulators seem to work the best and are the cheapest. I recommend the 100 psi version. I even use my tank to run my impact wrench and I have an air over hydraulic bottle jack.

I have been running CO2 for 20+ years. Don't listen to the old wives tails about CO2 leaking out of your tires. I have gone a year and had no appreciable pressure loss. Now, the CO2 does seem to seep out of cheap air mattresses in a day or two of use.
 

HeliSniper

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Don't waste your money on fancy regulators with a gauge to measure the tank pressure. Pressure holds steady for the most part until the tank is empty. They also tend to freeze up when used. The simple fixed regulators seem to work the best and are the cheapest. I recommend the 100 psi version. I even use my tank to run my impact wrench and I have an air over hydraulic bottle jack.

I have been running CO2 for 20+ years. Don't listen to the old wives tails about CO2 leaking out of your tires. I have gone a year and had no appreciable pressure loss. Now, the CO2 does seem to seep out of cheap air mattresses in a day or two of use.
Totally agree, I use the Gentec 227C-150 Flow Regulator for $45.00 from Amazon. All air tools run with an in-line regulator getting the PSI down to 100 - 80 psi that the tools are rated for and have never needed another regulator, unless you just want fancy and have the $$$ to toss at it.
 

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Funny that you bring up this topic. As a former home brewer I have a 5 lb and 20 lb tank. Just bought the parts needed to bring the 5 for airing up.
 
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IMG_2716.JPG
I know how to build it. I'm just gathering the parts/fittings now.
Here is a look at what I have so far, just a manifold with gauge and stainless shut off valve. With a hose running to each wheel it should be a breeze. I like where you're going with the hidden lines, that ought to look very slick. Also in this picture is my in-line regulator and swivel that brings my working PSI down to a point where my air tools like it.
 
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jeep670

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Here is a look at what I have so far, just a manifold with gauge and stainless shut off valve. With a hose running to each wheel it should be a breeze. I like where you're going with the hidden lines, that ought to look very slick. Also in this picture is my in-line regulator and swivel that brings my working PSI down to a point where my air tools like it.
That looks very PRO.
My manifold is 1in/4out only but my regulator has its own gauge so it is inbetween the compressor and the manifold. Then I go, exactly like you do, with 4 hoses to the 4 wheels. Also quick dis/connect from compressor to regulator for deflation.
But how come you're using a pressure gauge made for water/fluids? Do they also work with air? Cause I was looking and the fluid gauges are much better quality than the crappy little air gauges...
 

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I just realized you moved this conversation to another forum. [emoji23][emoji106]
Sorry, I should have said something. I had "high-jacked" the OP's thread more than I thought I would, but did not intend to. So I just started my own because, as you see, this is something I would like to pursue further.
 

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....and by the way, the inlet side of my manifold is 3\8" just for the additional volume going to the 4 - 1/4" fittings below. I am no high volume gas expert but I just thought it made sense, maybe not, but it works.......
 

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How about the fluid gauge? I think you missed my prev post.
It's just an Oil Filled Pressure Gage, same as any other just filled with oil to dampen the vibration and needle jumping. I just find they last longer but you can use whatever gage you like.


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jeep670

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Well.. since the parts and materials I already purchased are not fit for an "internal" system, I decided to make an external one. Now, having built this one, I may get lazy and discontinue the idea of an internal system since doing it right may be a lot of work with little added benefit over this one. But who knows..
The last pic serves as a bill of materials.
The 2 hoses are 25ft each and have fittings and flex hardening at both ends.
 
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HeliSniper

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I've tried the setup today on the trail and it did the job very well.
So are you still happy with your setup? I was thinking of just getting a shoulder strap to carry my tank to the tires the hose cannot reach. I'm just not too sure about all the extra hose, but you should know....
 

jeep670

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So are you still happy with your setup? I was thinking of just getting a shoulder strap to carry my tank to the tires the hose cannot reach. I'm just not too sure about all the extra hose, but you should know....
Yes, I use it every time I hit the trails to deflate/inflate.
I like it for two reasons:
1. No more squatting,
2. All tires have exactly the same pressure when I'm done.
 

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Yes, I use it every time I hit the trails to deflate/inflate.
I like it for two reasons:
1. No more squatting,
2. All tires have exactly the same pressure when I'm done.
While that is true if the vehicle is sitting flat, if you use it when it is off level, then move it to level, your pressure will change. It isn't much, but it has to do with pressure/volume/load.
 
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jeep670

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While that is true if the vehicle is sitting flat, if you use it when it is off level, then move it to level, your pressure will change. It isn't much, but it has to do with pressure/volume/load.
While you are technically right, the EVIC is not that precise to show the decimal psi, so the tires show same pressure on dasboard. Good enough for me. And my trails usually start and end on flat ground anyway.
 

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While you are technically right, the EVIC is not that precise to show the decimal psi, so the tires show same pressure on dasboard. Good enough for me. And my trails usually start and end on flat ground anyway.
Agreed, but the obsessive engineer in me had to speak up ;-)
 

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Yes, I use it every time I hit the trails to deflate/inflate.
I like it for two reasons:
1. No more squatting,
2. All tires have exactly the same pressure when I'm done.
That’s great to hear. So are you still using clip-on in two of the connections and press-on on the other two? If so, what are your thoughts on each? Do you have a preference?