Refrigerator & Battery Question

[SKWRLE]

Hey gang. I have an Iceco VL45 refrigerator cooler. I'm looking at either a Bluetti EB55 or AC50S battery pack with a solar panel to power it when the vehicle isn't on. Full disclosure, I'm pretty clueless with electricity. Any thoughts on which Bluetti product will be better? I don't anticipate powering anything other than the refrigerator. My basic question is, understanding that run time will vary based on how cold I have the cooler set, which battery pack will serve my needs better. Are both likely capable of running the cooler overnight until the solar panels can do their thing the next day? Thanks

 

[old_man]

If your cooler already has the contents down to temp and the outside temp isn't too high, I estimate from reviewing the specs that the cooler will most likely pull around 5 amps. Over night (12hrs) you will probably use 60 Watt hours. The batteries should handle that, the question is can you get them charged before nightfall again. Remember you have to replace the power you pulled out of the batteries overnight and also run the cooler in the most demanding time of the day.

Minimize opening the cooler, have your solar set up oriented correctly and possibly move it midday. Hook up to the vehicle to recharge whenever possible.

 

[reaver]

Both units have about the same capacity, and have regulated 12v ports. Do you have an inverter in your vehicle to charge it while driving? If so, I'd say get the one that charges the fastest with the inverter you already have.

Otherwise, I'd say get the cheaper one. Keep in mind, fridge cords like to come out of these 12v sockets, so you'll likely have to periodically check the cord to make sure it's still in the battery. Also, keep in mind that trying to charge via 12v socket takes longer than either AC or via Solar (but not impossible, by any means).

 

[Cpol]

Anything in the 200 ah range

 

[zgfiredude]

OK, I'm trying to figure out adding a fridge myself, so I'm doing some of these type of calculations currently and compiling internet acquired knowledge ......

I am not following the math above....... +/- 5.0 amp draw @ 12 volts = 60 watts. 60 watts x 12 hours = 720 watt hours. 720 watt hours = 60 amp hours! Now, that's running 100% of the time. Given a duty cycle of +/- 25% overnight, the actual consumption would be more like 720 watt hours x 25% or about 180 watt hours ( 15 amp hours for the 12 hour period, doubled for 30 amp hours per day) ........right?

As I read the specs of the Bluetti EB55, it says 537 watt hours ( 44.75 amp hours ) capacity. Seems plenty adequate, what am I missing?

And yes I realize this is a simplistic view which is only looking at 1 overnight run of the fridge off the battery and doesn't get into charging rates or solar panel size or inefficiencies or wiring resistance or daytime duty cycle being higher or anything else and also the effective useable power from a lithium vs agm vs flooded lead acid battery.

I've read LOTS of threads in different forums and from folks who have tested their fridges in different conditions and they indicate an actual usage range of from about 20 amp hours to 42 amp hours per day (using all different fridges). I see the specs on the OPs Iceco fridge at .269 kwh per 24 hour day (lab data) on their site. That equals 269 watt hours or about 22.5 amp hours per day, which falls into the general range from those users.

So, if you've followed me so far...........I feel like the 30 amp hour usage over a 24 hour period is perhaps a decent middle ground estimate based on what I've read. Given that, and the Bluetti EB55 at my calculated 44.75 amp hour capacity, it should work with room to spare.

Does my math seem accurate? I really am just trying to help, and figure this out for myself at the same time. It all starts out with such a simple question, LOL!!!

 

[reaver]

OK, I'm trying to figure out adding a fridge myself, so I'm doing some of these type of calculations currently and compiling internet acquired knowledge ......

I am not following the math above....... +/- 5.0 amp draw @ 12 volts = 60 watts. 60 watts x 12 hours = 720 watt hours. 720 watt hours = 60 amp hours! Now, that's running 100% of the time. Given a duty cycle of +/- 25% overnight, the actual consumption would be more like 720 watt hours x 25% or about 180 watt hours ( 15 amp hours for the 12 hour period, doubled for 30 amp hours per day) ........right?

As I read the specs of the Bluetti EB55, it says 537 watt hours ( 44.75 amp hours ) capacity. Seems plenty adequate, what am I missing?

And yes I realize this is a simplistic view which is only looking at 1 overnight run of the fridge off the battery and doesn't get into charging rates or solar panel size or inefficiencies or wiring resistance or daytime duty cycle being higher or anything else and also the effective useable power from a lithium vs agm vs flooded lead acid battery.

I've read LOTS of threads in different forums and from folks who have tested their fridges in different conditions and they indicate an actual usage range of from about 20 amp hours to 42 amp hours per day (using all different fridges). I see the specs on the OPs Iceco fridge at .269 kwh per 24 hour day (lab data) on their site. That equals 269 watt hours or about 22.5 amp hours per day, which falls into the general range from those users.

So, if you've followed me so far...........I feel like the 30 amp hour usage over a 24 hour period is perhaps a decent middle ground estimate based on what I've read. Given that, and the Bluetti EB55 at my calculated 44.75 amp hour capacity, it should work with room to spare.

Does my math seem accurate? I really am just trying to help, and figure this out for myself at the same time. It all starts out with such a simple question, LOL!!!

This is a fairly accurate assumption. I've been running my fridge off my rockpals 540Wh battery pack for about a year now. I've run it in the hot Idaho summer, and in much cooler weather. With a 12v stabilizer wired inline with my fridge (unnecessary with a regulated 12v port), I can get about 36 hours of use out of my battery pack before it's depleted. I have a 120w solar panel I use when base camping that's capable of keeping the battery topped off, as my fridge only draws about 40-45W when running.

 

[OverLamb24]

I myself am looking at the EB55 for the simple reason of the tech and inverter in it is far superior. Not to mention with a little creativity you can really maximize the charging capabilities which is massive for this size battery. If you have an inverter you can charge via Ac and via DC (solar/cigarette plug) at the same time. 400 watt max total input ac+dc is significant.

 

[NorCalRam]

I have the jackery 500 and it keeps my iceco 63qt fridge running all day and all night. I do charge it via the 12v plug and it has no problem fully charging during a days drive, probably only drops 10-20% overnight. The fridge doesn't run constantly and the more cold beers you have in there the less you have to worry about it warming up.
I imagine unless you are a fridge, freezer, charging 8 drone batteries and running a desktop PC while not charging during the day to deplete the battery.

It seems there is also so much interwebz debates on how to get it done when it's really not that serious lol.

 

[naysjp]

I'm glad I read this. I have a Jackery 500 and want to get the VL63 which is the fridge/freezer. I planned on letting the jackery be dedicated tothe fridge/freezer.

 

[JakJak]

I have the jackery 500 and it keeps my iceco 63qt fridge running all day and all night. I do charge it via the 12v plug and it has no problem fully charging during a days drive, probably only drops 10-20% overnight. The fridge doesn't run constantly and the more cold beers you have in there the less you have to worry about it warming up.
I imagine unless you are a fridge, freezer, charging 8 drone batteries and running a desktop PC while not charging during the day to deplete the battery.

It seems there is also so much interwebz debates on how to get it done when it's really not that serious lol.

May I ask how long will the jackery run the fridge? We have been debating getting the 1000, but that’s pricey , so I was considering the 500 but wasn’t sure how long it will run a fridge

 

[NorCalRam]

I have the jackery 500 and it keeps my iceco 63qt fridge running all day and all night. I do charge it via the 12v plug and it has no problem fully charging during a days drive, probably only drops 10-20% overnight. The fridge doesn't run constantly and the more cold beers you have in there the less you have to worry about it warming up.
I imagine unless you are a fridge, freezer, charging 8 drone batteries and running a desktop PC while not charging during the day to deplete the battery.

It seems there is also so much interwebz debates on how to get it done when it's really not that serious lol.

May I ask how long will the jackery run the fridge? We have been debating getting the 1000, but that’s pricey , so I was considering the 500 but wasn’t sure how long it will run a fridge

The 500 gets down to like 75% over night. I really haven’t seen it get dangerous low on a few week long trips. Couple hours of driving charges it just fine. I think the lowest it got was 50ish percent from running the fridge 36 hours without charging. Fridges really don’t suck too much juice since they don’t run the whole time.
Also why is there a “D” in fridge but not in refrigerator?

 

[JakJak]

I have the jackery 500 and it keeps my iceco 63qt fridge running all day and all night. I do charge it via the 12v plug and it has no problem fully charging during a days drive, probably only drops 10-20% overnight. The fridge doesn't run constantly and the more cold beers you have in there the less you have to worry about it warming up.
I imagine unless you are a fridge, freezer, charging 8 drone batteries and running a desktop PC while not charging during the day to deplete the battery.

It seems there is also so much interwebz debates on how to get it done when it's really not that serious lol.

May I ask how long will the jackery run the fridge? We have been debating getting the 1000, but that’s pricey , so I was considering the 500 but wasn’t sure how long it will run a fridge

The 500 gets down to like 75% over night. I really haven’t seen it get dangerous low on a few week long trips. Couple hours of driving charges it just fine. I think the lowest it got was 50ish percent from running the fridge 36 hours without charging. Fridges really don’t suck too much juice since they don’t run the whole time.
Also why is there a “D” in fridge but not in refrigerator?

Oh ok.. thanks for the info sounds like a 500 would be very suitable, at least for our little excursions… not exactly XO here lol.

Fridge, pronounced /FRIJ/, is the shortened form of refrigerator that started appearing in print in the early 20th century. The word was likely spoken long before it appeared in writing. To make clear the proper pronunciation of the word, printers added the d to mirror other words with similar soft g's, such as bridge and lodge. spelling does not always follow basic logic. In fact, most of the time it does not. …..messing kids up on spelling tests for years… from my friends at Merrimack-Webster LOL

 

[Ubiety]

IMO (so many opinions!) the problem with many of the “all in one” “solar generators” is the rate at which you can shove electrons into them to recharge. Converting DC to AC (with inverter) to have the fridge convert it back to DC is a lossy and inefficient proposition and charging via 12 volt cigarette plug could be pretty slow. If you think DIY is an acceptable option I’d look at a DCDC charger with solar input as that will be able to move a lot more electrons and give you more battery options. Lots of folks are hyped on lithium batteries, but did you ever see one burn? Scary. Conventional (lead acid type) batteries provide a lot more power for a far lower price - yeah there are pros and cons but that is something to consider. The length of your adventures also dictates acceptable solutions as a lot of the solutions can keep you going for the weekend but will be difficult to keep charged longer than a handful of days. Take a look at something like this, or this for a charge controller, a little more DIY but I believe serves better in the end. And should you decide to go with something like the links above make sure to use sufficient size wire/cable and fusing for everything because a fire can ruin your day.

 

[Viking1204]

Both units have about the same capacity, and have regulated 12v ports. Do you have an inverter in your vehicle to charge it while driving? If so, I'd say get the one that charges the fastest with the inverter you already have.

Otherwise, I'd say get the cheaper one. Keep in mind, fridge cords like to come out of these 12v sockets, so you'll likely have to periodically check the cord to make sure it's still in the battery. Also, keep in mind that trying to charge via 12v socket takes longer than either AC or via Solar (but not impossible, by any means).

I replaced the 12V Cigarette lighter plug on my fridge with an Anderson plug and it no longer falls out of the socket, I would make this modification on anything that uses a Cigarette lighter plug while traveling off road!

The best modification I've done to keeping my 138ah battery charged is getting a Redarc DC to DC charger. My 100w solar panel does a good job but the DC to DC charger charges it a lot faster, 30 minutes of the truck running and the battery is fully charged!

 

[Ubiety]

I replaced the 12V Cigarette lighter plug on my fridge with an Anderson plug and it no longer falls out of the socket, I would make this modification on anything that uses a Cigarette lighter plug while traveling off road!

Awesome advice! Cannot tell you how many times something was supposed to be plugged in but the cig lighter adapter had wiggled out. More positive connectors like Andersons are always better.

 

[NMBruce]

Something to consider
https://www.costco.com/ecoflow-river-pro-portable-power-station+-river-pro-extra-battery.product.100716886.html. And Costco also has the Solar panels on sale too

https://www.costco.com/ecoflow-160w-solar-panel.product.100716854.html

 

[reaver]

I replaced the 12V Cigarette lighter plug on my fridge with an Anderson plug and it no longer falls out of the socket, I would make this modification on anything that uses a Cigarette lighter plug while traveling off road!

The best modification I've done to keeping my 138ah battery charged is getting a Redarc DC to DC charger. My 100w solar panel does a good job but the DC to DC charger charges it a lot faster, 30 minutes of the truck running and the battery is fully charged!

I replaced mine with locking 25A dt connectors. This way I can plug it into a hardwired pigtail in the X, or reconnect the 12v plug, and run it off a standard 12v socket.

My DC-DC charger is going in the trailer as my current setup works well enough in the X (and I'm space limted, so no dual battery setup yet in there).

 

[Ubiety]

XT90 connectors have also been recommended to me, these are what you see on RC cars and batteries. A little smaller form factor than Andersons.

 

[reaver]

I replaced mine with locking 25A dt connectors. This way I can plug it into a hardwired pigtail in the X, or reconnect the 12v plug, and run it off a standard 12v socket.

My DC-DC charger is going in the trailer as my current setup works well enough in the X (and I'm space limted, so no dual battery setup yet in there).

25A DT Connectors are totally overkill, as is 12GA wire, as any fridge worth it's salt won't draw anymore than 5-6A so even anderson connectors are totally overkill. But anything that locks, and doesn't come apart will work just fine.

 

[Viking1204]

The Anderson connectors I use are pretty small so they do the job well!