Explorer I
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Just saw this mount on another site, if I had more stuff going on in my Ram I might think about getting one. Looks like it's built well and would be pretty handy for mounting accessories.
Powered Accessory Mount | 13-18 Ram
Boost your Ram Truck experience with Expedition Essentials' Powered Mount for 2013-2018 models. Precision engineering for your adventures. Shop now!
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Explorer I
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That looks well thought out.Just saw this mount on another site, if I had more stuff going on in my Ram I might think about getting one. Looks like it's built well and would be pretty handy for mounting accessories.
Powered Accessory Mount | 13-18 Ram
Boost your Ram Truck experience with Expedition Essentials' Powered Mount for 2013-2018 models. Precision engineering for your adventures. Shop now!expeditionessentials.com
Explorer I
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So I finally started building sliders today.....
Took care of all the bends with random lengths added first and laid them out in the driveway.
Then started working on the .250 wall slider material. Trying to use up what I had on hand, I had to join a couple sections of 2 x 3 x .250. I chose to TIG it together for the cleanliness and added strength.
Took care of all the bends with random lengths added first and laid them out in the driveway.
Then started working on the .250 wall slider material. Trying to use up what I had on hand, I had to join a couple sections of 2 x 3 x .250. I chose to TIG it together for the cleanliness and added strength.
Beautiful work. I'm jealous of your skill and your build! I may attempt some sliders for my truck one day, but that may be the extent of my fabrication adventure-ness. My lack of experience and lack of access to decent equipment kind of limit what I'm willing to booger weld. :D
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Explorer I
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Thanks John. You can learn this stuff. Its really not that hard, just gotta jump in. You can get a decent welding machine for about the same cost of a new Glock, a few extra mags, and a couple boxes of ammo....Just sayin!
These sliders would cost me $1100 plus freight, I can build them for under $400. With that savings, maybe I will buy me a new Glock!
Explorer I
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I may try something for sliders. I have access to a simple welding setup at work and a friend that owns a steel business. One one hand, engineering it correctly worries me. On the other hand, the money saved might keep my wife from divorcing me.Thanks John. You can learn this stuff. Its really not that hard, just gotta jump in. You can get a decent welding machine for about the same cost of a new Glock, a few extra mags, and a couple boxes of ammo....Just sayin!
These sliders would cost me $1100 plus freight, I can build them for under $400. With that savings, maybe I will buy me a new Glock!
Explorer I
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What kind of truck? Do you know the weight?I may try something for sliders. I have access to a simple welding setup at work and a friend that owns a steel business. One one hand, engineering it correctly worries me. On the other hand, the money saved might keep my wife from divorcing me.
I am using 2x3x.250 wall rectangle tube for the main slide bar.
2x2x.250 wall will be used extend to the frame , plus have 1/4" thick gussets. Then 3x1/2 flat bar will be used to sandwich the frame in 4 locations. I DO NOT recommend welding the bars to the frame. Most frames are formed from fairly thin steel, like 10 ga (about 1/8" thick). This will flex, bend, and eventually fail.
You basically want to transfer the the load into the full frame height, and preferably near cross members as this will be the strongest area of the frame.
I don't know the weight, but I imagine I should be able to source that info relatively easily. I'm in a 4 door Ranger.
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Nice truck!
I feel you would be fine with 2x2 x.250 wall main slider tube and 1.5 x 1.5 x .250 connector arms. And .120 wall round tube is adequate for the step portion but you could upgrade to .188 wall if you feel your style of trails will warrant the extra protection.
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Explorer I
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Today I worked on getting some of the pieces tack welded together.
I also made a template for the stubby pieces that strengthen the step tube and attach it to the main slide bar.
Because I decided to angle the step tube up about 20 degrees, it made for a challenge in cutting those double angles on the stubby pieces.
I got one real close then made the template.
I rolled the accurate stub piece in paper and made sure the edges of the "fish mouth" and the 45 degree cut were pressed into the paper to trace later...
Then all I have to do is cut the "fish mouth" and aligne the template to the tube and trace the 45 degree cut.
The cool thing too is that you can reverse the angle just by rolling it on the tube with the opposite side facing the tube. This is for the other side.
I also made a template for the stubby pieces that strengthen the step tube and attach it to the main slide bar.
Because I decided to angle the step tube up about 20 degrees, it made for a challenge in cutting those double angles on the stubby pieces.
I got one real close then made the template.
I rolled the accurate stub piece in paper and made sure the edges of the "fish mouth" and the 45 degree cut were pressed into the paper to trace later...
Then all I have to do is cut the "fish mouth" and aligne the template to the tube and trace the 45 degree cut.
The cool thing too is that you can reverse the angle just by rolling it on the tube with the opposite side facing the tube. This is for the other side.
Explorer I
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The above process is a bit time consuming but you end up with a perfect fitting joint...
Now to make 5 more!
Now to make 5 more!
Explorer I
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Today I finished getting all of the tedious pieces cut and tacked up...
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Explorer I
- 4,285
- First Name
- Michael
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3030
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- KJ7LYZ
Explorer I
- 4,285
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Denniston
- Member #
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3030
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7LYZ
Managed to get all of the welds finished on the main slider sections.
Tomorrow I will start working on the mounting portion.
Tomorrow I will start working on the mounting portion.
