OB Approved Introduction to Recovery equipment

[Symon]

Thanks for the info.adds up to my overlanding knowledge

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[IronPercheron]

You can toss something like this together in a pinch... works like a charm. Ive used logs before... with a little ingenuity you can get it done.

 

[Faolchu]

awesome info thanks for sharing!

 

[hollonm]

Just curious, I have played in the mud before but I am new to the possibility of recovery gear. Something I don't quite know is required weight ratings. For example, the 4runner I'm in the process of acquiring is about 4700lb (IIRC). Not adding any weight to the vehicle, what kind of rating should I be looking at? I ask because I'm sure I would not simply want a 5000lb rated strap, winch, etc. due to physics. By that I mean, when stuck in mud, it will take more force than simply that equal to the vehicle to pull the vehicle out of the sticky substance. Is figuring out required weight ratings a %? Because say I add 1200lb worth of roof rack, bumpers, supplies, etc. I would than have about 5900lb. Not only the added 1200lb to the vehicle, but the vehicle would likely be stuck "deeper" in the mud due to the extra weight pushing it down requiring even more force on the physics side in addition to the more force required on the vehicle weight side. Sorry if I'm over thinking this, my engineering side tends to come out from time to time...because math

Granted, I could calculate the amount of force required to pull "x weight" vehicle from standard force exerted by "x terrain"...but for the lack of time, is it a rule of thumb you go by (1.5x vehicle weight, 2x vehicle weight, etc)?

 

[Winterpeg]

When choosing a snatch strap for use, it is recommended that the strap has a minimum breaking strength (MBS) of between two to three times the vehicle’s gross vehicle mass (GVM). When using a snatch strap to recover a stranded vehicle, the MBS should be suited to the GVM of the lighter of the two vehicles involved in the recovery process. If the GVM is not stated on the identification plate or registration certificate of a vehicle, it could be available from the owners handbook, or consult the vehicle manufacturer.

It is important that the correctly rated snatch strap is used. If a strap with a too heavy breaking strength is used on a light vehicle, the desired stretch may not be achieved and more stress will be placed on the recovery points.

http://arbusa.com/Getting-Started/Recovery-Techniques-Equipment.aspx

 

[hollonm]

http://arbusa.com/Getting-Started/Recovery-Techniques-Equipment.aspx

Wow, thank you for that. It even answered my next question in regards to "overkill"...I once built a steel cart weighing about 300lb just to roll around a Hobart 145 (I think) Mig Welder...

I have some CAT scales nearby, I think after getting the 4runner I will make sure it's topped off with fluids and weigh it. Than I can add up the additional weight of accessories and gear as I go. Can't be any more accurate than that

 

[hollonm]

I have some CAT scales nearby, I think after getting the 4runner I will make sure it's topped off with fluids and weigh it. Than I can add up the additional weight of accessories and gear as I go. Can't be any more accurate than that

Actually, I don't think my own idea will work. Upon more research, the curb weight of a new 4runner TRD Pro is 4750lb and the GVWR (commonly known as GVM) is 6300lb. So regardless of what I add to the vehicle I should have equipment rated for 2-3x 6300lb?

 

[Winterpeg]

Actually, I don't think my own idea will work. Upon more research, the curb weight of a new 4runner TRD Pro is 4750lb and the GVWR (commonly known as GVM) is 6300lb. So regardless of what I add to the vehicle I should have equipment rated for 2-3x 6300lb?

Sounds about right. My guess is 15,000 lb would be the sweet spot. I've seen recovery straps for that exact amount. I don't buy super expensive ones so if/when I break them I get another one without too much crying, lol.

I honestly don't know what mine is rated for at the moment... it's been in my FJ for a few years now. I'm doing less rock crawling and mud bogging so it has lasted a bit longer than my last one... and has stayed cleaner!

 

[Quicksilver]

It even answered my next question in regards to "overkill"...I once built a steel cart weighing about 300lb just to roll around a Hobart 145 (I think) Mig Welder...

Overkill is underrated, lol. The guy who taught me how to weld over-engineered everything (meaning not a scrap of engineering was used in any design process, ever), so I tend to do the same thing.

 

[maktruk]

I like this Krazy Beaver shovel. I don't have one but I have friends that do. It's a bit pricey for me. I have a regular Lowe's blue shovel on one of my trucks. I find they rust very fast when they are strapped to the side of the truck.

The KB has a seriously heavy duty powdercoat on it. I've damaged the handle from the mounting bolts more than I've damaged the blade from rocks, etc. It's a great fire tool as well.

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[Red Beard]

You can toss something like this together in a pinch... works like a charm. Ive used logs before... with a little ingenuity you can get it done.

You can also use heavy duty Zip Ties for doing this.

 

[SlashX]

Has anybody used the deadman recovery anchor? I saw the kick starters video and it looks good. Just looking for first hand experience.

 

[000]

Sounds about right. My guess is 15,000 lb would be the sweet spot. I've seen recovery straps for that exact amount. I don't buy super expensive ones so if/when I break them I get another one without too much crying, lol.

I honestly don't know what mine is rated for at the moment... it's been in my FJ for a few years now. I'm doing less rock crawling and mud bogging so it has lasted a bit longer than my last one... and has stayed cleaner!

Also consider that the rating is the recommended working rate. With my experience as a tow operator It is industry standard that most recovery equipment has a tensile strength of at least three times the recommended working load and though it shouldn't necessarily be considered into your calculations, it can give you a little more confidence that your 6,000lb strap isn't going to explode at 6,001lbs. This of course changes dramatically with wear and the quality of the equipment. Something else to consider is the configuration of the straps. Pulling straight, as a basket or as a choker all change the load ratings of straps. Find a towing equipment company to get this stuff, cheaper and good quality, though no cool name brand labels... aw direct is a good source.


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[000]

Has anybody used the deadman recovery anchor? I saw the kick starters video and it looks good. Just looking for first hand experience.

Never used one, but it seems like if you're digging a hole for a deadman type of anchor why not just bury the hi lift jack, spare tire, log, etc?


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[DMill556]

Good write up thanks for sharing. I think recovery gear must be quality gear, save up to buy good straps, snatch blocks, cable or rope etc... a little higher rated than your vehicle size and weight just to be on the safe side. Don't buy the cheap junk, if you on a budget like most of us are, cheap on another area an buy quality in the recovery area. Just my opinion

 

[RNAV]

I'm a newbie (first post, in fact). THANK YOU for making this post. I've been wanting to do some offroad trail riding and am obviously concerned about getting stuck. I've been looking for a while for a resource that lists recovery equipment and their associated use(s), just as this post has done. Now I've got a starting point!

 

[Gary Bzzz]

Great read for a newbie - I already knew recover gear would be among my first additions - appreciate the info.

 

[old_man]

Thanks for the write up. In order of purchase priority I would go with a good strap with at least 20k pounds strength, not a cheap Harbor Freight. Followed by a good shovel. In the hands of a skilled operator, stretchy straps are good but neophytes tend to go crazy and I have seen several bad accidents due to poor use.

When you talk winches, especially for overlanding, I would go with a multi-mount so you can keep it inside out of the elements and then connect it on either the front or rear as needed.

 

[DCFISK]

1.10 High Lift, Kangaroo or Wallaby Jack
The primary function of a high life jack is to elevate the vehicle clear of objects halting progress or likely to cause any damage, where a standard vehicles jack is not sufficient. Its secondary function is a short travel hand winch, when limited recovery means are available. The jack has the ability to lift the 4WD about 1 metre above the ground so that road building materials can be placed under the wheels for better traction
These jacks introduce a number of hazards and associated risks especially if they are not maintained and/or operated correctly. Extreme care must be taken when jacking the vehicle, as the higher it is jacked the more unstable it becomes. This elevated lift allows the vehicle to be easily pushed sideways resulting in vehicle and/or equipment damage, or harm to the operator. Jacks can kick side ways rapidly as the vehicle falls sideways
View attachment 1572

1.11 Jack Base Plate
These are usually constructed from a flat piece of steel or thick timber. The plate allows the weight of the vehicle to be dispersed over a larger ground area or footprint, preventing any selected type of jack from sinking into soft surfaces once loaded. These are highly recommended when travelling across soft surfaces, such as sand.
View attachment 1569
1.13 Bull Bag/Exhaust Jack
Also known as ‘Air Jack Bag’. These are typically a large rubber or vinyl bag which can be placed under the vehicle and inflated by means of attaching a hose to the vehicle’s exhaust. They are a quick and efficient means of raising the vehicle, particularly in muddy or sandy environments where other jacks are likely to push down into soft surfaces
View attachment 1570

1.14 Recovery Tracks
These are designed to be inserted under the vehicles wheels to enable them to gain traction when recovering, or to prevent the vehicle sinking, in soft/loose sand or mud bogs. Usually provided in pairs with grip lugs on one surface which allows the vehicles tyres to grip and gain traction.
View attachment 1571

Thank you for putting this up. I currently only have Maxtrax, and with a winch in my sites, this info was very useful!

 

[KarmaSeoul]

Thanks for this. I've been trying to figure out what I should have if the occasion should arise, rather when.