Mostly, I graduated high school in Wausau. I am familiar with both Fleet Farm and Farm and Fleet. To be honest I use them interchangably, probably 50/50 chance as to which one I'll say.
Hi-Lift Jack
- Thread starter ShawnR
- Start date
I grew up in Waukesha :) Not often you hear Farm & Fleet, or Fleet & Farm outside of the state. :)
True. They are cool stores. Tires, pants, ammo, dog food, tools, and a coffee pot all under one roof.
add the base, and then look at your vehicle and the other vehicles you travel with and see if you need the wheel adapter / bumper adapter etc. Maintain your jack (clean and lube) and learn how to use it. Even after years, I am still learning some nuances and secrets to usign them better.
Ive used harbor freight's $49 "farm jack," which I must assume is on par with farm and fleets offering. I have to say the Hi-Lift unit is cleaner, the parts are all well deburred, there are clips and whatnot to hold everything in place, and it just downright jacks "cleaner" if you know what I mean. I don't feel like my life is in peril using it. The harbor freight unit, well...
Benefactor
I only use the real deal for a jack like this on my truck. While the HF version is close, it's in the details that set the two apart:
The HF model has no Spring Retaining Clip. The only safe position for the Hi-Lift is with the handle secured to the Standard, and the Reversing Lever in the 'up" position. In addition to that, if someone has an available hand, get them to lightly hold the handle as well.
The Hi-Lift's nose is longer and has a curved tip to help it from slipping.
There are no repair kits for the HF model. The shear bolt rarely breaks, but the slide pins can get some corrosion build up or a spring might break.
The Running Gear and Standard cannot be interchanged between HF and HL models.
Some people think that the Off Road Base accessory adds stability to the jack. It doesn't. It merely gives it a wider footprint to prevent sinking in loose/soft terrain, just like airing down your tires. If you have longer travel shocks, use the ORB to get that extra 3" of travel off the ground.
If you've opted for the 60" version (like me), keep in mind that the rated capacity drops to 2,660 lbs. in the last 12".
Never use a cheater bar to extend the length of the handle. You're much more likely to break the shear bolt in doing so. If you need more leverage, you need a new plan.
The HF model has no Spring Retaining Clip. The only safe position for the Hi-Lift is with the handle secured to the Standard, and the Reversing Lever in the 'up" position. In addition to that, if someone has an available hand, get them to lightly hold the handle as well.
The Hi-Lift's nose is longer and has a curved tip to help it from slipping.
There are no repair kits for the HF model. The shear bolt rarely breaks, but the slide pins can get some corrosion build up or a spring might break.
The Running Gear and Standard cannot be interchanged between HF and HL models.
Some people think that the Off Road Base accessory adds stability to the jack. It doesn't. It merely gives it a wider footprint to prevent sinking in loose/soft terrain, just like airing down your tires. If you have longer travel shocks, use the ORB to get that extra 3" of travel off the ground.
If you've opted for the 60" version (like me), keep in mind that the rated capacity drops to 2,660 lbs. in the last 12".
Never use a cheater bar to extend the length of the handle. You're much more likely to break the shear bolt in doing so. If you need more leverage, you need a new plan.
Re: Off road base and stability --> what suggestions can you make towards more stability? Would you recommend the Jack-Mate?
Benefactor
The JackMate is good for rocky conditions like a boulder field. If there's room to use the cast (or stamped) Hi-Lift base, keep it attached. I've replaced the cotter pin down there with a locking wire loop pin. Same for the handle, though you have to drill it slightly wider, and through the other side. A 1/4" locking pin works well. These are standard on the Hi-Lift Extreme.
For stability, there is a product called the Safe Jack. Their website is currently down, but it basically uses support poles from the top that get staked into the ground. I've not used or even seen this product firsthand (www.proquip.com.au). It's good in theory, but it looks like a lot of setup time. Of course you need firm ground so the stakes don't pull out as well.
One thing to always keep in mind about the Hi-Lift, and what makes it so inherently unstable, is that the travel can be plotted as a curve. While the Running Gear will travel straight up the Standard with no load (or if you could balance yourself on the tongue), the nature of jacking a truck will cause it to move in an arc away from you. That's why when you start eerything is good, but the higher you lift, the more the Standard leans into the body. Some options to prevent body damage are: using a pool noodle (slit down one side) to act as a cushion, or fold your side view mirror and align the Standard so it lands against the mirror. It's much easier and cheaper to replace a side view mirror than the entire door.
For lubrication, I use a silicone spray. Do not use old motor oil. You don't want the crap it collects in your motor in the Running Gear either.
For stability, there is a product called the Safe Jack. Their website is currently down, but it basically uses support poles from the top that get staked into the ground. I've not used or even seen this product firsthand (www.proquip.com.au). It's good in theory, but it looks like a lot of setup time. Of course you need firm ground so the stakes don't pull out as well.
One thing to always keep in mind about the Hi-Lift, and what makes it so inherently unstable, is that the travel can be plotted as a curve. While the Running Gear will travel straight up the Standard with no load (or if you could balance yourself on the tongue), the nature of jacking a truck will cause it to move in an arc away from you. That's why when you start eerything is good, but the higher you lift, the more the Standard leans into the body. Some options to prevent body damage are: using a pool noodle (slit down one side) to act as a cushion, or fold your side view mirror and align the Standard so it lands against the mirror. It's much easier and cheaper to replace a side view mirror than the entire door.
For lubrication, I use a silicone spray. Do not use old motor oil. You don't want the crap it collects in your motor in the Running Gear either.
I own both. I have a Reese farm jack from tractor supply and a hi lift. The Reese literally bent the first time I used it (which still has me baffled because it's cast and cast doesn't usually bend) and then I bought the real thing, haven't had a problem in multiple uses. I will say from experience to buy the real thing the first time because buying the knock off only saves you about $20 anyway
Traveler III
There are many different grades of cast iron. "Gray" iron is the type that typically fractures when it gets bashed with something. Ductile iron is tougher, and designed to have some bend in it. That's a good thing, because you'd much rather see the tools start to bend and know you've gone too far than have it suddenly fracture on you. Both have their place in industrial equipment, and are better at some things than the other.
Before I retired, I was a product designer for a major plumbing/pipeworking tool manufacturer, and spent most of my career designing cast and molded parts. No, I can't get you a calendar.
Influencer II
There is an article in OutdoorX4 Issue 11 on Page 20 that seems like it fits in here. It describes the Hi-Lift and points out that there are much more compact/safe alternatives. I still have one though, it's like an overlanding law. If you don't have one, are you really an overlander? ;)
Traveler III
Uh oh, I'm in trouble, then.
When I do decide to get on, though, I think I'd get a Bushranger X-Jack instead. Seems more versatile.
Influencer II
I do like the x-jack, but I will always have my bottle jack too. The Hi-Lift only goes in the Trooper when I am heading out to the Ranch to do some work. It comes in handy out there. I don't use it for vehicle recovery anymore, though.Uh oh, I'm in trouble, then.
When I do decide to get on, though, I think I'd get a Bushranger X-Jack instead. Seems more versatile.
I have used my high lift quite a few times. My advise
- keep it covered or stored in a dry place
- keep it lubed
- try to use a highlift base
- slider adapters make it much safer or bumpers with cutouts
- if you are jacking it up and it doesn't fee stable stop and reset
- Always open the door when highlifting off a slider
- Keep your face away from the handle.
- When you stop jacking under load keep the handle in the upright position.
Practice in your driveway. You don't want the first time you use the jack to be on the trail.
Sent from my iPhone using Overland Bound Talk
- keep it covered or stored in a dry place
- keep it lubed
- try to use a highlift base
- slider adapters make it much safer or bumpers with cutouts
- if you are jacking it up and it doesn't fee stable stop and reset
- Always open the door when highlifting off a slider
- Keep your face away from the handle.
- When you stop jacking under load keep the handle in the upright position.
Practice in your driveway. You don't want the first time you use the jack to be on the trail.
Sent from my iPhone using Overland Bound Talk
Influencer II
I've had my hi-lift for 6 years and only used it once. My friend got a log wedged under their axle and wouldn't free itself. I recommend the wheel adapter kit but check the straps before each use to make sure they are not frayed/damaged. Hi-lifts are gnarly mechanisms and should definitely be handled with caution. If using it to lift a vehicle, keep an eye on your vehicles lean angles. Lifting slightly to much on any non-flat surface could jeopardize the vehicles stability.
Advocate II
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0150
I need to get either aftermarket bumpers now or weld together some exoskeleton bars in front and in back of my Truck since I have a half plastic bumper and plastic side skirts. I did just order the wheel strap accessory to use the wheel as a mounting point though so that should help.
60" Hi-Lift Extreme
60" Hi-Lift Extreme
