Gun Cases/Roof Rack Storage

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Tundracamper

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Just finishing up my setup. I’m using Pelican 1720 mounted to a Yakima LockNLoad platform using M6 Square head bolts some SS fender washers and rubber bushings. View attachment 182216
I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
 

Lindenwood

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I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.

Original setup on bottom after I relocated the case--on tp is after cutting off the front ~12 inches and adding provisions to mount the fairing.

Polish_20210104_141852641.jpg
 

Shokgoblr

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I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.

Original setup on bottom after I relocated the case--on tp is after cutting off the front ~12 inches and adding provisions to mount the fairing.

View attachment 182551
Slightly off topic- why the high lift on your Trek? What lift are you running, and how will you change a tire? Do you have jack points installed? I need a taller jack, but a farm jack is useless without jack points front and rear.
 

Lindenwood

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Slightly off topic- why the high lift on your Trek? What lift are you running, and how will you change a tire? Do you have jack points installed? I need a taller jack, but a farm jack is useless without jack points front and rear.
It is both for winching and lifting via the wheels (which is much safer than lifting from the armor). I also do carry collapsing jack stands and the factory scissor jack, which is only for more convenience when simply changing a tire on the side of the road. I carry enough chains to winch about 30 feet.

The only thing I can't do that I could on my fully-armed 4Runner is jack up one end of the vehicle and "cast" that end of the vehicle sideways out of deep ruts. I don't really eff with deep, sticky mud anymore, though, so that isn't a big problem for me.

The Hi-Lift "Lift Mate" is available all over the web. I bought mine for about $40 on Amazon.
HiLiftLiftMateWheel.jpg
 
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Shokgoblr

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How do you change a tire with the lift mate strap? I dont see how.
 

PCO6

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I use my roof boxes on my Jeep XJ and on a rack for my off road trailer at different times. I'm currently building a rack for my Jeep LJ and I've had to coordinate the design of each rack (pretty straight forward). I have 4 bolts in the floor of each box and simply run them through the racks. It's basically the same for my recovery boards.

The rack is not fully painted yet in this pic ...

20-03-18 1.JPG
 

MarioT'sCJResto

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I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.

Original setup on bottom after I relocated the case--on tp is after cutting off the front ~12 inches and adding provisions to mount the fairing.

View attachment 182551
Love the upgrade here, it looks so much better. I’m not worried one bit about road noise, since I’m usually rocking classical rock music. I do have plans to break down the interior of my Ram this spring to install dynamatt’s full kit
 

MarioT'sCJResto

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Just finishing up my setup. I’m using Pelican 1720 mounted to a Yakima LockNLoad platform using M6 Square head bolts some SS fender washers and rubber bushings. View attachment 182216
I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
This is a great idea, especially considering that I’ll dedicate one 95L box for recovery gear.
 
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Tundracamper

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Yep, that’s what I’m doing.
Sure would be nice to see some photos . I’m kinda worried about the thickness of the case lid and the ability to adequately hold the boards goimg down the road - assuming the mounting pins are used to attach the boards to the lid. Also concerned about rain leaks - my cases are water tight now.
 

MarioT'sCJResto

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This is a great idea, especially considering that I’ll dedicate one 95L box for recovery gear.
Any ideas how to reinforce Maxtrax mounting pins secured to the lid of a plastic case?
I’m not sure, but before I would attempt any mounting option I plan on looking for some DIY how to do tips on all venues.
 

Tundracamper

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BTW, as for waterproofing I’m 100% confident that the Pelican will stay waterproof. So sure I was going to silicon seal it and I chose not to. Why so sure? Because, I was careful to not drill hole larger than needed for bolt to pass through (5/16” in my case), then I used 1” stainless steel fender washers above and below with 1” rubber washers sandwiched in between. This reinforces plastic and ensures that remains waterproof.
Yes, that sounds like a good approach. I hope it works!
 
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Lindenwood

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Looks great. How hard is accessing that middle case though?
I stand on the back tire and have no problem getting in there! It is going to permanently hold all my recovery gear so most of the time I shouldn't really need to get in there.
 
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