Advocate I
- 1,958
- First Name
- Randall
- Last Name
- Treloyn
- Member #
-
5615
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- VK7VWK
Goal: simple day to day life, small(ish), offroad capable – a Jeep Gladiator build
- Thread starter cug
- Start date
Again, be aware of weight limitations. The Gladiator has a payload around 450 to 500kg (unless you have the Sport version with the MaxTow package, that one has more). Four passengers, that's already between 250 and 300kg gone, depending on the passengers. Put the Alu-Cab (210kg for the basic shell, up to 250kg with awning, shower tent, etc.) on and you're done. No other items. That includes taking off the tail gate (~ 20kg or so).
For us, it's just the two of us at 140kg clothed, the rear seats are ~ 40kg vs. our platform at 16kg, so we have about 340 to 390kg left (plus the savings from the tailgate). Wtih the cab on it's down to 90 to 140kg. With the water and fuel tank full and our gear, we are over payload. Nothing I can do about that.
I'm not criticizing the idea, I'm trying to make you aware of the limitations of the Gladiator. The payload is just plain laughable. Our Land Cruiser in Europe has 1300kg payload. That's 800kg more than the Gladiator. You don't have to use all that, but it's good to have some of it.
In Europe I could improve suspension and brakes and get the payload uprated. Not so here in the US. No idea how complicated it is in Australia.
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Again, there haven't been many updates in the last few days, we've been busy with two projects:
1. Rear Door Mosquito Screen
Since the mounting of the original mozzie screen didn't work with our furniture, my wife made our own version of it. The velcro will get attached in slightly different places and it does not have a canvas layer – for which I never saw the point anyways.
Otherwise it works similar to the Alu-Cab mosquito screen: zippers for the middle panel, it drops perfectly into the gab between door frame and bedplate, is attached with velcro at the top and sides, can be rolled up and secured in place when rolled up. The straps to secure it in place don't have velcro, but use "toggles" (plastic thingies that go through a loop to hold the fabric in place, more like a camping tent).
The screen is done, we'll wait with final mounting until we don't have to move furniture around anymore.
2. Various brackets for the rear
In additon to the various door panel and brackets, I have now also designed a bracket to hold our "trash container". We are going to use a large Bear Vault as our trash can. This needed a way to attach to the outside. Goals were easy removal and secure mounting.
Here's the sketch:
There won't be much if any weight on the rear bend, since the container will be held against the camper with a RokStrap attached to this little bracket:
So, I'm not concerned about stability. The flanges are mostly to conveniently hold the container in place while mounting/unmounting it.
This will all be mounted to the molle panel on the driver's side. The mounting holes are optimized for the hole distances and can be moved slightly left and right for individual adjustment. I've made sure that we can also mount it to one of our own door brackets if we ever wanted to.
This was quite an order for aluminum cutting now:
They also come in raw aluminum, so we can make corrections if needed and then have it powder coated locally.
On that topic, we saw a local powder coating shop yesterday and talked to the owner – they made us a great price if we bring all parts in one go and have only one color to be applied. Perfect, exactly what I was looking for, since powder coating at the online cut-and-bend-place was outrageously expensive.
I can only recommend talking to local fabrication shops, they are generally super nice to work with!
1. Rear Door Mosquito Screen
Since the mounting of the original mozzie screen didn't work with our furniture, my wife made our own version of it. The velcro will get attached in slightly different places and it does not have a canvas layer – for which I never saw the point anyways.
Otherwise it works similar to the Alu-Cab mosquito screen: zippers for the middle panel, it drops perfectly into the gab between door frame and bedplate, is attached with velcro at the top and sides, can be rolled up and secured in place when rolled up. The straps to secure it in place don't have velcro, but use "toggles" (plastic thingies that go through a loop to hold the fabric in place, more like a camping tent).
The screen is done, we'll wait with final mounting until we don't have to move furniture around anymore.
2. Various brackets for the rear
In additon to the various door panel and brackets, I have now also designed a bracket to hold our "trash container". We are going to use a large Bear Vault as our trash can. This needed a way to attach to the outside. Goals were easy removal and secure mounting.
Here's the sketch:
There won't be much if any weight on the rear bend, since the container will be held against the camper with a RokStrap attached to this little bracket:
So, I'm not concerned about stability. The flanges are mostly to conveniently hold the container in place while mounting/unmounting it.
This will all be mounted to the molle panel on the driver's side. The mounting holes are optimized for the hole distances and can be moved slightly left and right for individual adjustment. I've made sure that we can also mount it to one of our own door brackets if we ever wanted to.
This was quite an order for aluminum cutting now:
- Bear Container bracket plus strap holder
- Door inside panel for mounting the Redvision display (
shit, I forgot to get the cover for the opening in the GP-Factor panel, need to add this to the order– DONE) - Door inside panel for behind a Last US Bag Half Caddy, to hold insulation in place
- 2x Mounting brackets for between upper two Rhino load bars
- 2x Mounting brackets for between lower two Rhino load bars
- 2x Spacer in case I want to mount upper and lower brackets exactly in line.
They also come in raw aluminum, so we can make corrections if needed and then have it powder coated locally.
On that topic, we saw a local powder coating shop yesterday and talked to the owner – they made us a great price if we bring all parts in one go and have only one color to be applied. Perfect, exactly what I was looking for, since powder coating at the online cut-and-bend-place was outrageously expensive.
I can only recommend talking to local fabrication shops, they are generally super nice to work with!
