Chains vs airing down off pavement (in snow and ice obviously!)

[Kelso]

Assuming you have chains available and strictly for off-pavement driving, when is it advised to air down vs chain up in winter? My understanding is that tires should be at full street pressure when running chains, so if you were aired down then decided to install chains you would have to air up first, is this correct?

I'm not worried about on the highway but I'm going to be getting heavy duty V-bar chains for gravel roads and trails and I'm curious if there are certain conditions or reasons why it would be better to air down instead of chaining up?

One example would be long distances of snowed in gravel roads. Chains mean a reduced speed for the whole drive. Would you take the speed penalty and just chain up to begin with or run aired down knowing you might have to air back up and then install chains later?

I've had 2 "puckering" experiences on icy hills so far this winter and that's enough!

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[dblack]

No. You don’t HAVE to air up for chain use.

I air down when I’m off roading and even rough roading depending on the terrain. I use my chains if I get into a pickle or an emergency, but I don’t drive a long distance with the chains unless I absolutely have to.

My view is to air down first. It’ll help traction. Then add chains later as required for short bursts.

 

[dblack]

I did run chains on the farm truck for a full winter (off road obviously). I found that I’d put the chains on with the tires flat then pump up the tire. Worked awesome. No slack and super tight chains.

 

[4wheelspulling]

No. You don’t HAVE to air up for chain use.

I air down when I’m off roading and even rough roading depending on the terrain. I use my chains if I get into a pickle or an emergency, but I don’t drive a long distance with the chains unless I absolutely have to.

My view is to air down first. It’ll help traction. Then add chains later as required for short bursts.

dblack, is right! You have you answers! Benz.

 

[4xFar Adventures]

I have to disagree about airing down and running chains. You want the chains to be as tight as possible against the tire. The amount of deflection that happens with an aired down tire will not let the chain sit tight against all of the tire. If the chains are very tight and you air down, you run the risk of breaking a link. This may not happen when driving on a level surface, but if you're climbing over an obstacle, or hit a bump, there will be even more deflection in the tire. At that point a link might break.

Airing down is good on bottomless snow, where it's deep enough so the tire won't touch the ground. You can continue letting air out until you get the right amount of flotation.

Chains are really good if they have something to bite on to. Like sheet ice, pavement, or the ground. Otherwise, they seem to just dig the snow out faster and you get stuck more often. And deeper.

Always make sure you have enough clearance in the wheel well to run chains, especially when the tire is stuffed up in it.

 

[4wheelspulling]

My drive way is on the South side of a canyon, and gains 2000' in 4-1/2 miles. I have to contend with lots of snow and Ice each winter, with the thaw and freezing of the snow because everything is in the shade. I air down to 20 lbs. the rubber chain snubbers keep the chains tight! Benz.

 

[Kelso]

Thanks for the varying feedback so far.

Regarding placement and fender clearance, I've always thought the front axle was the better choice but I don't have the clearance. Does it matter much if chains are used on the rear axle vs front?

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[4wheelspulling]

Going up hills, I like chains in the front, going down hills chains on the rear axle help keep the back end from sliding out and coming around. Most newer trucks and SUVs the owners manual will say not to put chains on the front. I think because of brake lines, low clearance and the possibility of the back swinging out! All my rigs have a solid axle in the front, maybe that makes a difference? Benz.

 

[Kelso]

Let's keep the opinions flowing :)

If you could have ONLY one, would you carry chains or recovery boards?

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[4xFar Adventures]

Traction Jack, Maxtrax, Maxa, or Treds over chains for sure.

Anyone can use them and they have more than one use.

 

[Kent R]

If only snow and ice then chains, but chains are not universal and traction mats can be used in all weather and most all terrain.

Im for the traction mats for my situation.

 

[4wheelspulling]

Lots of great comments, maybe see you out wheeling in the snow this winter! Benz.

 

[Desert Runner]

Chains are a pain, but you better have them in the winter back-country. Also, V-Link chains are a prudent option if any ice will be encountered. I once slid down a off-camber hill, like a sled towards the road below. That was a big pucker slide, keeping the truck under some control....not fun at all. IT ALL WAS INITIATED WHEN SOME ICE WAS ENCOUNTERED UNDER THE SNOW.

 

[Desert Runner]

Let's keep the opinions flowing :)

If you could have ONLY one, would you carry chains or recovery boards?

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I don't think they can be put as a choice! of one or the other. In almost any scenario I can think off, if you need chains, YOU NEED CHAINS! At the point you need them, recovery boards are only going to get you a very short distance, before you need them again, then again, and so on. When this point is reached, you should have reevaluated your decision by then.

With that said, if you can afford them, have both. They really are for different stuck situations in most terrain you will be in. The traction boards are more for shallow snow, during the winter, which is where snow chains should be your alternative, deep snow, the opposite. Mud, sand, etc, is where chains are most likely kept in their bag.

SIDE NOTE:
V-link chains are not that more expensive than standard, and will last longer, and have superior traction, a thought to have if shopping for a set. Buy extra tensioner's, they will keep body damage to a lower percentage. To answer the statement....."one or the other", it would have to be recovery boards, as the thought of being stuck in winter with deep snow, is not my cup of tea.

 

[madcratebuilder]

I haven't seen any comments on using studded snow tires. The years I spent in NE Washington I ran them and I was very happy with the traction.

 

[old_man]

Studded tires are the way to go on snowpack and ice. They are illegal in some states. Where I grew up, 9000 ft elevation in Northern Colorado, we routinely had 3 ft on the level, so boards would be of little use.

For around the farm, we put them on in the Fall and took them off in the spring....after the mud dried up a bit. Chains really help in both sand and mud.

Practice putting them on before you need them I carry a thick piece of wood that I use for a jack base. I added a slope on each end and channels in it. I lay the chain across the base, then drive up on the base. That way I can adjust and tighten the chain without having to move the vehicle, and jacks on ice and snow are fun. Use snubbers and keep your speed down. I just love watching some yahoo going 70 with chains on.

 

[Roam_CO85]

I drove a semi up tell recently. I live in colorado and like Mr @old_man said you put them on in fall and take em off in the spring.. on board that is a tractor or a ranch pickup or crummy they stay on. I carried them year round on the truck. They arent just for snow and ice... like stated above mud and sand they work great too. I also carry them year round on my personal rig. A block of wood and a high lift is a good combo. I hauled cattle out of the high country and spent alot of winter chained up or going over mountain passes. And have actually gotten to hate the sentence “ how do you put them on” or can i watch you..”. Drive up onto a block of wood or lift the wheel up enough to put that block under a wheel.. use to have to chain up a feed truck when younger to feed cattle and horses after it rained. Pretty aggressive. @old_man I had to chain up my old dually pickup once ...front axle and back axle to get a load of horses over the west side of cameron pass ice was so bad the front axle kept hoping. Felt ten foot tall and bullet proof with dual chains in the back and chained up front axle on a 5500 ram. Sucker could of went through anything.

As for airing down...ive seen those chains tare up a 600.00 semi drive tire in a matter of a few miles. Im sure it can be done but if you slice a tire. Things got expensive pretty fast and you only have one spare.. was stated in another post. I think chains are better spent than a recovery board. Good ones!! Dont skemp on them. The more they cost the better they are.

 

[Corbet]

Chains over traction boards for snow. I have both and use the chains in the snow way more. But the boards are a better investment for year round use for sure.

Chains up if you can reach a solid surface below without pushing too much snow. Ortherwise air down and try to float on top.

I run studs all winter. Braking performance is so much better.

 

[4wheelspulling]

I use snow chains, in snow. But in mud as a last resort. Sand, Mud, Taction mats ( boards) make the job easier to get unstuck successfully. All of the above, a winch helps too! Vance.

 

[MidOH]

I like the square link heavy duty chains. Depends on size of vehicle, I guess. I'm a fullsize. Note how the links stand up like paddles.

If clearance is tight, lose the v bars and use a more regular chain. The extra side bite of the v bars might be overkill for some. Consider the diamond chain patterns for street use.

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Also, there is no ''should I air down'' or ''should I air up and run chains''. Those are two completely different setups, for completely different snow. If I'm floating on crunchy powder I'm not going to use chains, even if I lose forward progress every mile or so. If I'm in sloppy frozen ice mud, yeah, chains all the way.

On the street? Haha, neither is ever needed for me. 88psi and stylin. Let her slide.