Building a home in a 80 series Landcruiser

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thelal

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Brendan
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Lally
Fantastic work; well impressed
Feel for you on the cabin evap ; have had to take my front out as well (fixing coax for radio aerial)

Looking to do a custom chop+cabin build in the future ; as feel 2 in the interior would be cramped on a long term basis (from talks with Tim/Kelsey on their poptop from Dirt Sunrise trip and their move to Maltec camper now)
Ping me if need help with EU travels
 
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Ob1

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Fantastic work; well impressed
Feel for you on the cabin evap ; have had to take my front out as well (fixing coax for radio aerial)

Looking to do a custom chop+cabin build in the future ; as feel 2 in the interior would be cramped on a long term basis (from talks with Tim/Kelsey on their poptop from Dirt Sunrise trip and their move to Maltec camper now)
Ping me if need help with EU travels
Hey Brendan,

thanks for the comment. We don’t travel full time (yet), so the current setup fits us perfectly. Max 30-40 days. I also wanted to keep it stock to keep away attraction when we stop and leave the vehicle for a while.
The Maltec structure is carbon. I think a metal frame would work better. Check Micha’s @overlandunderbudget. 3/4” square tubing frame.

I don’t like the idea of sleeping on the roof because I’m always ready to leave camp in a few seconds in case of emergency. I know, I know… it’s from my military days. .

Sometimes my wife still stays in bed in the morning for a few hours while we take off until it warms up.

thanks again for the offer. May take you on it. COVID, COVID for now.

Cheers
 
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Ob1

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This weekend we volunteered with an Overlandbound group organized by our Executive Director Kent Reynolds OB1632 in coordination with NPS to clean up the Mojave Desert. 35 rigs showed up with 50 hard working volunteers. We were divided into 3 groups. The first photo is one of the sites that was purchased and will be donated to the park. Since it is not transferred yet, it is considered private property and drone flights are allowed.

The last photo is just a suggestion to people that overland for long periods. Our fridge started to smell, so we took a small candy can, removed the plastic window and put a mesh instead. The can is filled with Baking soda and seats inside the fridge. It makes a huge difference.

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Ob1

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There is one 'last' project in the works for this build. We are replacing the two round PVC water tanks of 8.6 gallons each (hot/cold) under the car with square 12.5 gallons each 304 stainless. Sheet metal is being bend right now, and then TIG welding. The frame supporting them would be similar except the saddle for the tanks would be square. The hot water tank will be insulated with 1/4" neoprene closed cell foam. I hope it will not collect too much dirt.

On a different note, we just started a new project. We are doing a frame off restoration and expedition build of a 1988 Land cruiser Troopy HJ75. Plan is to pull the body off and send it to a body shop. Front leaf suspension replaced with coil. 2H/H42 will be replaced with a 1HDT/H55 or 1HDFT/H55 if I can find one. Popup roof, and then camper build similar to the 80. I'll probably start a different blog for this project. (What did we get into...)

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Ob1

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We are in the process of upgrading the water tanks from PVC pipes to stainless. They have been fully functional, but going to a square and thinner wall thickness will give us more then 40% more water. Driving in Alaska without a water filtration system was an issue trying to find potable water. We do have a filtration system at this point but we had access to a source that can cut and bend the 304 stainless and a friend who can TIG weld.

I'll post some photos of the old tanks for reference and the start of the project of the new stainless tanks. The frame that supports the tank bolts into the frame using thread locations. It sits instead of the spare.
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These are the PVC pipes on the frame upside-down. The cold and hot outlets are on the bottom of the tanks when installed. The one on the left is the hot water and has two outlets, one for the faucet/shower and one for the circulating pump.

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Here the tanks are sitting side-up and the pipes on top are to vent and compress the tanks.
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We used large hose clamps to secure the tanks to the frame.
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The tanks mount and not exposed. There is a protective armor on the copper pipes.
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This is one of the 4 plates that make the 2 tanks. They are identical. The big washer is to reinforce the hole for the welded 1/2" NPT bung.
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and here is the start of welding... I'll post more photos as we progress.

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Ob1

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Built the frame to support the tanks. I figured the older one can still be used by another 80 series. Spend Saturday cutting and welding. Today it went to the paint shop for BK208 powder coating. I had to reroute the exhaust a bit. I also need to build a skid plate but that would be next year.
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Ob1

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I'm in awe if all of it! The new project is going to be so cool and your rig is just awesome. How heavy is it getting though?
Thanks. I’ll put it on a scale this week once I finish the tanks.
 
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smritte

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Nice build
In the beginning you have a shot of your tailgate. I have been wanting to make a compartment like yours. Where did you buy your latch's. I haven't found one I like and your design is what I have been looking for.
 
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Ob1

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Nice build
In the beginning you have a shot of your tailgate. I have been wanting to make a compartment like yours. Where did you buy your latch's. I haven't found one I like and your design is what I have been looking for.
Hey Scott,

Thanks. The hinges were stainless. This is the link, but currently unavailable, just buy something similar. The latches are marine grade and I needed to 3D print round spacers in the back, because it's meant for plywood and the sheet metal is too thin. The shocks are 8" long when compressed. I don't have a link for them.

The metal was from sliceofstainless.com. I used 304 so it's food grade and we can use it as a counter top. Dimensions are for 80 series tailgate.

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Ob1

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Finally finished and tested the new water tanks. 2x12.5 gallons. It takes about 35 minutes to heat the 12.5 gallon tank to 130F with the engine heat exchange. The hot tank is insulated with 1/4" Minicell and has contact with the cold tank so in freezing weather it will warm it and the water will not freeze (hopefully...). I had to reroute the exhaust, and it was a major pain because with the 3" exhaust there is not much space there.
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smritte

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Thank you. Those latch's will work nicely. I have almost the same in plastic on my drawers. I've been wanting to find something stronger for that and my compartment.
I tried to find my print out from when I weighed mine. No luck. I think I was 6100# with me, 1/2 fuel and gear. that was before my custom radius arms and sliders. Im guessing high 6300# now. Need to get out the scales again at work.
 

Ob1

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Thank you. Those latch's will work nicely. I have almost the same in plastic on my drawers. I've been wanting to find something stronger for that and my compartment.
I tried to find my print out from when I weighed mine. No luck. I think I was 6100# with me, 1/2 fuel and gear. that was before my custom radius arms and sliders. Im guessing high 6300# now. Need to get out the scales again at work.
Scott,

These are gas shocks I used.
 
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Ob1

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Just did a stress test to the water system. We drove 900 miles to Seattle in the middle of a severe winter storm. Temps outside were 22F. The heater could not bring the temperature to 125F while driving because of the wind factor. We kept the water hater running all the time to avoid freezing. While driving, water temperature was 110F and that kept also the cold water from freezing. Once stopped, in 10 minutes it would reach 125F.

I5 had about 20 cars planted on the hills by the road. Some upside-down. One semi 100 yards in the forest, two on their side with the bottom facing the freeway, two, one on top of each other. People just drive too fast, or with the wrong equipment.

We slept in the car at 21F and were kept warm with 3 down comforters. The Jerrycan in the back with water froze solid ice. But, "Adventure is Necessary!".

In Bend we stopped at Fitgarage to pick up an AluCab popup roof for the troopy. Great shop they have there!

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Ob1

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This project has matured. We are very happy with the results and the dynamic list of improvements is empty. We are moving to our next built. A HJ75 Landcruiser Troopy.

We enjoyed doing the build and using the rig. We have lived in it on long and short trips for about 120 days since the build not to mention about 250 showers and many many meals. It will stay in the family never to be sold. Here are some highlights...

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Cheers

--ofer
 

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Ob1

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Hey i would like to know where you bought your ladder from. Awesome build by the way.
Hey Brandon,
Thanks. Ladder was home made. 1/2” steel pipe bent. The rungs are 1/8”x2” steel bar. I drilled holes in the rear bumper and welded 8mm nuts so I can attach ‘stuff’. Cost $15.

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Bugeyz

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Hi, your skills and workmanship are inspiring. You make it look easy and fun but I know there's a lot of elbow grease and long nights invloved. It' the journey that's always the best part and not necessarily the destination, for me the destination is just the silver lining. Wishing you the best!!
 
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Texas Cruiser

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Just came back from eastern Oregon this weekend. Figured we needed to wash the bottom of the car after driving the dirt...

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So the smaller heat exchanger that you mentioned isn't available at the moment. What do you think about this one for an application similar to yours.