Another Subaru Build Thread

It will. The front will settle relatively quickly but unless you start making trips to Lowe’s for loads of pavers with your heavy friends the rear will take time.

I have to get some bags of sand to fill in a large hole in the backyard where I am removing a broken jacuzzi, so just the thing to help settle the rear out.
 
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Well 10 minutes and it was off. Hoping for more articulation in the rear.

I've encouraged so many people to get of it I don't even recall if you were one of them haha. Its almost funny how easy it is to remove so I tell people you can always put it back on in a snap if they don't like it. 'Flex' is definitely helped a little bit but the big thing with a spring lift is the added droop.
 
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I've encouraged so many people to get of it I don't even recall if you were one of them haha. Its almost funny how easy it is to remove so I tell people you can always put it back on in a snap if they don't like it. 'Flex' is definitely helped a little bit but the big thing with a spring lift is the added droop.
You were one who said remove it. It was a piece of cake, the hardest part was snaking it around the exhaust to get it out in one piece. Now what about a quick disconnect for the front ??????
Mine doesn't have large spring lift. King says with these springs it is only 3/8" in the front and 1/2" in the rear. We'll see after they set.
 
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You were one who said remove it. It was a piece of cake, the hardest part was snaking it around the exhaust to get it out in one piece. Now what about a quick disconnect for the front ??????
Mine doesn't have large spring lift. King says with these springs it is only 3/8" in the front and 1/2" in the rear. We'll see after they set.

I've got some ideas for the front end links but a few things in the way until I get to it.
 
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I've got some ideas for the front end links but a few things in the way until I get to it.

I looked at it today and the top bolt is easy to get to from under the fender on top of the tire. Now how to just hold it up out of the way. Undoing the one bolt on each side shouldn't take that long on the trail during airing down or up.
What kind of an easy inexpensive bracket can I come up with to test this idea ??????
 
I looked at it today and the top bolt is easy to get to from under the fender on top of the tire. Now how to just hold it up out of the way. Undoing the one bolt on each side shouldn't take that long on the trail during airing down or up.
What kind of an easy inexpensive bracket can I come up with to test this idea ??????

To be honest its better to start with a new custom end link. The front sway bar is already not where it should be because of the lift so the end link needs to be shorter but its still not that simple. That shorter length can get a little tricky with the relief for the CV axle. Once you have the end link sorted it doesn't get any easier because attachment points for the disconnected sway bar are limited due to it being laced between the tie rod and axle/LCA. All that said I think it can be done.
 
Wanted to check in and see how the new springs are treating you. I'm in the market for some front springs to go with my rallitek oem overloads.

Sent from my Pixel using OB Talk mobile app

So far I really like them. Not to stiff unloaded and next week I will try them in an off road excursion. I'll report back after that.
 
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Hey bud, nice build! I'm going to be building my rig with Subaru as well, either a Forester or Outback. I'm looking forward to seeing what else you do with this.

-r
 
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OK, next up added to my navigation. I already use a Garmin Montana that mounts on the windshield in a suction mount. Just trying a larger screen with a 9.5" iPad in a Panavise in-dash mount running Gaia. I found a arm for the mount that also is adjustable (45 degrees) so I can have it facing directly toward me or when I have navigator it can face them. Here it is
iPad Mount 1.JPG iPad Mount 2.JPG iPad Mount 3.JPG iPad Mount 4.jpg iPad Mount 5.JPG
 
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