$900 1980 Ford F250 - Budget Build - The best overlander is the one you have

[stark-in-the-wild]

It's a possibility. I would first get a volt meter to make sure the battery does have plenty of voltage, then make sure the starter solenoid is getting good voltage to it. That vintage of Ford should have the solenoid on the firewall or one of the inside fender wells, that is what you would hear clicking. If there is good voltage to the solenoid check that it is getting power to the small wire when you turn the key. If it is getting power to the small wire the problem could be the solenoid.

I ended up just taking my Daily Driver out then when I got back a few hours later it was a few degrees warmer out and the truck fired right up! Either the gods interfered and just didn't want me to take the truck out, or 4 degrees made all the difference. I'm going to try to fire it up first thing in the morning again to see if it happens again.

 

[stark-in-the-wild]

Quick update: I finished my door panel! Still need to make an arm rest and clean up the handle mechanism since it is now visible. Maybe make a new handle, we shall see. I went with a more basic door panel because 1) This is my first time attempting upholstery and 2) i LOVE exposed painted metal on the inside of a car. When I saw the simple stamp on the lower half I knew I'd want it to be seen.
Photos: Before (Left) & After (Right)

 

[stark-in-the-wild]

Finally a couple updates! Been watching a lot of "Mighty Car Mods" episodes on YouTube which has thrown me into a car frenzy. Along with working on my truck I have decided to rebuild a 351W for my 1967 Mustang AND convert it to manual and rebuild a 5 speed T5 Transmission. I am pretty excited! But you are here for the truck so I digress:

I finally got the carburetor I rebuilt on the truck! It's a 4 barrel Holley Economaster 400cfm. The truck runs and in 2nd gear feels great. It coughs a bit under heavy acceleration and initially every time I shift gears. After getting a quote for $500-$1000 to tune a carb...I decided I will be learning how to do it myself. I was already going to but sometimes I like to know the prices of the skills I am learning. I also took a peak at my distributor cap and rotor which were shot. So I swapped those out too.

Also, I did the easiest job I have ever done. I replaced the rubber around the doors and windows which makes it a new truck as far as I am concerned. The rubber cost me $130 and the install took less than an hour. Best thing I have done to the truck so far. NO MORE RATTLES!!! It feels and sounds solid. Swapping the rubber on my mustang was a b**** with the adhesive and holding it and moving on but in 1980 (maybe sooner) Ford made it as simple as pushing it in place. The hardest part of this install was removing what was left of the hardened seals that were already there.

Fairly low key update but its the little things that bring a project together! I need to fix the heater next so that will be the next update I'm sure. After that I will replace my ditch lights and paint some plastic parts of the interior black. I have also been kicking around getting new rims I love modern rims on old rusty trucks.

I have also been researching how to make my suspension smoother. I have new leaf spring bushings but installing them is a fairly big job so I might get some reservoir shocks and swap them both at the same time? Let me know your thoughts because I don't know suspension well so if you think that is wasted effort and money please tell me.

Some photos of the engine bay (so much room for goodies; Turbo 250?):

 

[Zeke]

Also I found this truck that is the inspiration for my build. Hoping to get a truck bed similar to this one at some point and shorten the total length of the truck (not the wheel base though). The only thing I don't want is my truck to be raised this much and probably not painted.

View attachment 147491

If I remember correctly, that bed started off as a surplus military trailer. I watched the build videos on YT last year sometime.

 

[stark-in-the-wild]

If I remember correctly, that bed started off as a surplus military trailer. I watched the build videos on YT last year sometime.

It did indeed! of course finding those trailers in my area is difficult and quite expensive -_-

 

[Dilldog]

You might also want to check your coil and ignition module, those guys could be on the way out causing iffy or inconsistent spark which will cause hickups like you describe as well.

 

[Zeke]

It did indeed! of course finding those trailers in my area is difficult and quite expensive -_-

Now that I have taken the time to read the whole thread I agree with others, the skirted flatbed would be cool as hell.

Also, you could make some trick door handles for the inside out of old wrenches like folks do for shifters:

 

[Krazyjohnny]

Stark,

This is what this used to be all about. I loved reading through all of this. Learning carb tuning is one of the best things you can do for older cars and trucks. ther is so much you can do to make these vehicles really come alive with jetting and metering. The guys on Hot Rod Garage, Roadkill, and Engine Masters can really wake up a ride with just carb tuning.

That 300 I-6 is one of the best motors ever made. UPS had them in just about all of their delivery trucks at one point then they began moving to the Vortec V-6 for a bit. They make great torque, run smooth and wear like iron. The old potted voltage regulators were an Achilles heel for this vintage of Fords.

Love the progress and that has to be one of my favorite Ford trucks. I spent many summers running an F-150 shortbed with the 300 - 6 in and out of the logging woods and later in the fall running bird dogs.

 

[Kjshank]

Love the truck! I’ve always heard those engines were bulletproof proof but I’ve never found the one for me. One day…