4x4 Systems Education Sites?

[Sailmike]

Earthroamer are poseurs. Air springs fail often overlanding. Sumo Rebel springs are the ''new thing '' for Tacoma's and F250's. For bigger camper trucks like an F550, you'll need custom springs made, maybe.

Bead locks are bad news. Good for wheelers, terrible idea for a pickup that hauls and travels. Instead of worrying about unseated beads, just learn to reseat the bead. Big full time campers should have two spares anyways.

Look again at pickup diesel reliability. They're very junky right now. I strongly recommend, as a master technician, that you look at Fords gasoline big block 7.3l with 4.30 or better axle ratio. And the gas truck is 1000# lighter.

I don’t know anything about axle ratios or what’s better than 4.3. Do you mind explaining?

 

[MidOH]

You always want the biggest number possible in this hobby.

Bigger ratio's mean better leverage for the drivetrain. You can run larger tires, haul heavier loads, have far less transmission wear. Low ratios like 3.55 are better for fuel economy, slightly. But a truck with a diesel and 4.10 axles is twice the truck with 3.55 ratios is. You'll see this correlates with the tow ratings as well. Ford's pretty good about offering big axle ratios, but dealer lots generally order trucks with girly ratio's.

I got $6000 rebate for buying my F250 off the lot with 3.73 axles. I wanted 4.30. But if I go to 35's permanently, I'll regear to 4.56. For 37" tire I'll regear to 4.88. (Gas 6.2l)

 

[old_man]

Bead locks are for serious rock crawling only. They are a PIA to maintain and keep from leaking. They are not highway friendly for wear or safety. I have done rock crawling for over 20 years and done all the toughest trails in Moab. I have never run or needed bead locks. Yes on EXTREME rock crawling, they are nice, but most of those rigs get trailered to and from the trails.

People think if they buy all the pretty stuff that they are a bad ass rock crawler. I loved watching Jessy James build his rigs. He built a pretty well equipped rock crawler and thought he was king of the hill. His lack of experience led him to destroy his rig on the first obstacle he tried, and then he blamed the equipment. Overlanding is a marketing term for camping. The most important thing is to get out there and start. Use your brain and take it easy as you learn. Most of the overlanding crowd are a bunch of posers and never actually get out and go. The same goes for rock crawling.

I remember doing several fairly difficult trails in Colorado decades ago and patting myself on the back when I got to the top, only to find a burned out hippie in a beat up old Datsun B210 sitting at the top.

I grew up in the middle of the mountains of Colorado on our ranch at 8000+ft and hundreds of inches of snow each year in the 60's. Our family car was a bone stock Ford Falcon. Our work truck had mud and snows on it but had a Detroit Locker (common to work trucks in the 60's). You learn how to drive and put on chains, and shovel out a car. Experience far outweighs fancy dodads.

Airing down is way blown out of proportion. A vehicle with a high center of gravity gets real squirrely when aired down. Short of all out rock crawling or extremely rocky/rough trails, I rarely air down much at all and it is mainly to make it a smoother ride.

Lockers are nice but RARELY needed. 4wd is similar. My wife and I took a 1973 G10 Chevy van I built into a camper ALL over Colorado and the Rockies taking pictures for decades. We did however have a ton of experience. If you are not lifting tires due to big rocks, at least here in Colorado, lockers are of little use and not used correctly on snow and ice, can kill you.

Take all the money you save and get out and explore. That way you will figure out what you want to spend your money on.

Now to step down off of my soapbox.

 

[MidOH]

Rocks ain't mud.

There's two lane roads in Ohio that aren't crossable without full lockers. Dry trails are dry trails, but mud is mud. I won't go anywhere anymore, without 4wd and at least one locker. Front or rear, don't care which.

 

[MMc]

What old_man says is mostly right on. If you are in the CA and Baja deserts knowing how and when to air down will saves you hours of digging in sand or cobble beach’s. Mud and snow not so much. Where you live and go to will determine what your strengths are. Long sand washes are pretty common in Baja as are miles and miles of wash board, airing down makes all difference. Go and do, more time on the road less time watching others videos.

 

[MidOH]

Yeah, I don't air down for snow much. Maybe down to 45-60psi.

Snow wheelin on 1psi 44's, ain't overlanding.

 

[JimBill]

Welcome to the rabbit hole. As you have probably read, there are no solutions that work in all cases. Watch YouTube and all else with a jaded eye. Most bling parts are either very specialized to excel in a very narrow circumstance, or the maker is trying to convince you to part with your money and keep up with the Jones'. Start with the must haves.

1. Vehicle must be mechanically sound and reliable. Address any known reliability problems of your particular vehicle as the first "mods".
2. Good tires. Don't get hung up on the perfect tire to start. (THERE IS NO PERFECT TIRE, repeat 3 times!). A 3 peak snow rated all terrain is a good start.
3. Full Size spare.
4. Suitable jack, tire repair kit.
5. First Aid Kit, fire extinguishers (one in cab, one in camper).
6. Recovery points front and rear.
7. Recovery gear (start with a shovel and tow strap).
8. Communications. All dependent on where you go and if you go alone or with others.
9. Compressor. With a camper you will likely not be airing down much, but sometimes airing down can make the world of difference for traction.
10. Basic off grid gear (food management, cooking, shelter, sleeping, etc).

Learn the capabilities of what you have, get some miles behind you doing what you want to do. The experience will tell you where you need to improve the vehicle or where you need to improve your camping gear. When I purchased my vehicle I was set on a 4 inch long arm lift. 3 years later I still don't have the lift, but I have a very complete camping kit that satisfies me and my female copilot.

A heavy weight rig will likely pose very specific challenges, such as changing spring rates and shocks or the like to match the load, and proper load rated tires. If you spend on hardware, you may want to consider this area first.

In the end do what makes you happy. Enjoy!

 

[Sailmike]

One of you mentioned a tire that’s excellent in all conditions except mud. (According to the manufacturer) I will be driving in mud occasionally. Are there tricks to avoid getting stuck that don’t require tires made for mud?

 

[M Rose]

One of you mentioned a tire that’s excellent in all conditions except mud. (According to the manufacturer) I will be driving in mud occasionally. Are there tricks to avoid getting stuck that don’t require tires made for mud?

A good aggressive A/T will do decent in mud... my best advice is to get a buddy with a rig that is larger than yours with a winch and straps to fallow you to a mud hole and go get stuck a few times... after getting buried 7-20 times you figure out what works and doesn’t work for you and your rig.

 

[Sailmike]

When upgrading to larger tires, I understand that several parts need to be upgraded as well to keep things like camber correct for that truck. Do all of those components come in “lift kits” including the tires and wheels?

 

[MMc]

When upgrading to larger tires, I understand that several parts need to be upgraded as well to keep things like camber correct for that truck. Do all of those components come in “lift kits” including the tires and wheels?

Nope. They are just the lift, the regeared diffs, the breaks, wheels and tires are all on you. I went to 315 tires, swapped out the gears and added lockers in the frt. and rear. Changed the breaks, and swapped out to a progressive spring pack on the rear. I didn’t add a lift kit. The frt. tire rub on the frame on a tight turn, but I am comfortable with it. The truck picked up 1.5 inches in clearance and 2’ in the rear bed. It is all I need for what I do. I try to avoid rocks taller than 12” to 15”. She’s to to long to rock crawl. I use her to get someplace not see if I can do sometime hard.

 

[Anak]

You may also find that you need to upgrade steering components in order to handle the added stress from the larger tires. Driveshafts may also need to be modified/upgraded. Some vehicles will need frame reinforcement, especially in the area around the steering gearbox.

Over time the vehicle will show you its weak points. Or you can research what other owners are experiencing with similar builds on the same platform.

 

[LostInThought]

Doesn’t lowering tire pressure for various conditions increases the chance of the bead unseating? So, aren’t beadlocks good insurance? I never know what conditions I’m going to encounter on my trips. Isn’t it good to be ready for anything? Especially if I have a heavy camper in back?

I have no problem running rough trail in my 4runner (not rock crawling) at 15-18psi with standard rims, no beadlocks. Others have said they go as low as 12psi or lower w/o beadlocks. I have skid plates up front. Rock sliders will probably be my next purchase.

 

[Ursa Major]

This may have popped up already, but is it just a "given" to air down before hitting any trail? I've been out on a few different trails without lowering pressure (I ride out at 30-34 PSI normally). I've come across a few tricky spots where I entered 4 low and was able to get out of it in a stock 2020 Ford Ranger STX.

 

[DevilDodge]

I have been trying to wrap my head around this thread.

@Sailmike

Are you trying to figure out what 4x4 system you want?

Are you trying to figure out what type of truck you want?

Are you trying to figure out how to "4x4"?

A diesel truck and a slide in camper are going to be HEAVY. If you plan to rock climb or go through deep mud with that type of rig...it is gonna have to be specially built and have a very experienced driver.

I wonder as I read this and try to understand the questions...have you driven a truck, off pavement traveled in a truck, and or dispersed camped?

I ask because driving a full size truck seems to be difficult for some. Going off pavement doesn't take a "built rig". And dispersed camping can be a bit of a stretch if you have never camped at all.

A diesel truck also requires a bit of mechanical knowledge and have a bit more to concern yourself with than a car or SUV.

When I read your original post. I figured what you needed to do was decide what brand truck you wanted. They are all about the same...just some minor differences. Me...i get the best luck with RAM trucks. Others have their favorite.

If you plan to always have the camper in the truck...you should probably look at 350/3500 trucks. Do you want a crew cab or a regular cab. RAM also has the Mega Cab...ford and Chevy still have extended cabs and access cabs.

The 4x4 system in the HeavyDuty trucks are part time. Meaning they are in 2wd or 4wd. To my knowledge they do not have the auto transfer cases in any make( I am certain about RAM).

As mentioned a Powerwagon comes greatly equiped for offroad. It has lockers and disconnecting sway bars. But it doesn't live well with a heavy slide in camper...but works well with the special designed ones. It is also only available with a Gas Engine. The 6.4l BGE is a great engine. I got rid of a Cummins to get mine. I love it.

Ford Now has the Tremor package. Which allows for some offroad goodies and the diesel engine.

AEV has the Prospectus package. Which would allow you to outfit a Cummins for offroad.

I do not know much about Chevy...but I sure have not seen anything from them like the Powerwagon Tremor or Prospector

 

[LostInThought]

This may have popped up already, but is it just a "given" to air down before hitting any trail? I've been out on a few different trails without lowering pressure (I ride out at 30-34 PSI normally). I've come across a few tricky spots where I entered 4 low and was able to get out of it in a stock 2020 Ford Ranger STX.

Where I travel, it's rarely a traction issue - but the washboard corrugations are just about enough to loosen your teeth and everything else on your vehicle without airing down here. I think it's just that the maintenance is so infrequent. Airing down makes a HUGE difference on the washboard for both ride and control.

 

[DevilDodge]

This may have popped up already, but is it just a "given" to air down before hitting any trail? I've been out on a few different trails without lowering pressure (I ride out at 30-34 PSI normally). I've come across a few tricky spots where I entered 4 low and was able to get out of it in a stock 2020 Ford Ranger STX.

I agree with the people who have talked about airing down.

I do not do the process. My truck requires 60 in the front and 80 in the rear for towing. I set mine at 55 and 70 for a bit better ride.

When I go offroad I am usually loaded pretty good. I do not have a dedicated air system...so i just stay aired up.

I can see the need for a bit better ride...but it isnt going to make much better in a 3/4 ton. And I would feel the same about the Ranger as your air pressure is probably already about half if mine.

If I was trying to float on some deep snow or mud...maybe...but my truck sinks into anyways...so I just do not waist the time.

And around here...you will be back on pavement often.

But, If you are traveling for long periods off road in a condition that airing down helps. By all means air down

 

[Ursa Major]

This may have popped up already, but is it just a "given" to air down before hitting any trail? I've been out on a few different trails without lowering pressure (I ride out at 30-34 PSI normally). I've come across a few tricky spots where I entered 4 low and was able to get out of it in a stock 2020 Ford Ranger STX.

I agree with the people who have talked about airing down.

I do not do the process. My truck requires 60 in the front and 80 in the rear for towing. I set mine at 55 and 70 for a bit better ride.

When I go offroad I am usually loaded pretty good. I do not have a dedicated air system...so i just stay aired up.

I can see the need for a bit better ride...but it isnt going to make much better in a 3/4 ton. And I would feel the same about the Ranger as your air pressure is probably already about half if mine.

If I was trying to float on some deep snow or mud...maybe...but my truck sinks into anyways...so I just do not waist the time.

And around here...you will be back on pavement often.

But, If you are traveling for long periods off road in a condition that airing down helps. By all means air down

I would imagine this also depends on the tires used as well. The better the tire, the less need to air down for better traction. *Ca-chuss* Sounds like a whole new can of worms being opened there! I digress though, airing down is not something I've done yet on my travels. 2021 will be the year to try new things!

 

[Sailmike]

I have been trying to wrap my head around this thread.

@Sailmike

Are you trying to figure out what 4x4 system you want?

Are you trying to figure out what type of truck you want?

Are you trying to figure out how to "4x4"?

A diesel truck and a slide in camper are going to be HEAVY. If you plan to rock climb or go through deep mud with that type of rig...it is gonna have to be specially built and have a very experienced driver.

I wonder as I read this and try to understand the questions...have you driven a truck, off pavement traveled in a truck, and or dispersed camped?

I ask because driving a full size truck seems to be difficult for some. Going off pavement doesn't take a "built rig". And dispersed camping can be a bit of a stretch if you have never camped at all.

A diesel truck also requires a bit of mechanical knowledge and have a bit more to concern yourself with than a car or SUV.

When I read your original post. I figured what you needed to do was decide what brand truck you wanted. They are all about the same...just some minor differences. Me...i get the best luck with RAM trucks. Others have their favorite.

If you plan to always have the camper in the truck...you should probably look at 350/3500 trucks. Do you want a crew cab or a regular cab. RAM also has the Mega Cab...ford and Chevy still have extended cabs and access cabs.

The 4x4 system in the HeavyDuty trucks are part time. Meaning they are in 2wd or 4wd. To my knowledge they do not have the auto transfer cases in any make( I am certain about RAM).

As mentioned a Powerwagon comes greatly equiped for offroad. It has lockers and disconnecting sway bars. But it doesn't live well with a heavy slide in camper...but works well with the special designed ones. It is also only available with a Gas Engine. The 6.4l BGE is a great engine. I got rid of a Cummins to get mine. I love it.

Ford Now has the Tremor package. Which allows for some offroad goodies and the diesel engine.

AEV has the Prospectus package. Which would allow you to outfit a Cummins for offroad.

I do not know much about Chevy...but I sure have not seen anything from them like the Powerwagon Tremor or Prospector

I have done a ton of dispersed camping. It’s my favorite way to camp. All the camping trips have been in a Honda CRV AWD. I even took it on the Dempster Highway in Canada. It was 500 miles round trip of dirt/gravel road with a million potholes. A 100 miles of that was mud! I was surprised I didn’t get stuck! That Honda has handled every trail I’ve thrown at it pretty well. I do take care not to take trails too rugged for it. Many times I’d stop and examine the trail ahead looking for the best way to drive through. Even with a dedicated 4x4 I’d still do the same thing, but I’d be able to take the trails I’ve had to turn down in the past. I don’t have any friends with 4x4 rigs, so I’ll have to take a class to learn some tricks on how to get through certain types of terrain and how to get unstuck if it happens. I want a heavy duty 4x4 mostly for the extra security and also for a sense of pride.

 

[Billiebob]

This may have popped up already, but is it just a "given" to air down before hitting any trail? I've been out on a few different trails without lowering pressure (I ride out at 30-34 PSI normally). I've come across a few tricky spots where I entered 4 low and was able to get out of it in a stock 2020 Ford Ranger STX.

Airing down is really over rated altho it has the added benefit of adding cushion to the ride. On the beach or in the dunes.... airing down in sand is definitely wise. Airing down for rocks or anywhere flotation is not an issue is not near as critical. And if you spin a bit in rocks, you can ait down as needed. If you have the air down protocol established as you leave pavement sure hve at 'er. If not..... air down before you hit the sand or as soon as a tire skids on slick rock. Likely we could all never air down without issue....... 50 years of wheeling speaking here. But not a thing wrong with doing it early every trip..... it'll definitely make the ride more comfortable.

Mud and deep snow are a different animal. I like higher pressure for both plus plenty of aggressive tread and throttle. Even chains. Mud is all about wheel speed. Snow????? maybe not.... but chains and churning slowly are unbeatable thru snow.

This is his 4th run. He backed down from the light post 3 times already. Starts a 34 seconds.