1999 GMC k2500 7.4l build detail

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ThundahBeagle

Rank V

Advocate I

1,548
Massachusetts
First Name
Andrew
Last Name
Beagle
Member #

0

2017
We bought a shipping container for the cabin.
Here's a nice pic of my view while sipping coffee in the morning before we set out to prep for the delivery.
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Here's my partner limbing some of the trees to make room for the container delivery.

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I have had TWO. 2-door models of this. The little ones always loved climbing all over it and getting on the roof. Never once did I worry about dents in the roof, nor did I see any significant damage from them.

My 2014?! No way, kids. Stay off the roof!
 
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ThundahBeagle

Rank V

Advocate I

1,548
Massachusetts
First Name
Andrew
Last Name
Beagle
Member #

0

Then, In November of 2022, tragedy struck the family.

My sister who was a VA Nurse had just moved to the cabin and began work to transform the VA hospital in the area after building out a great program in San Diego. Was hit head on by a semi truck that swerved into her at the last possible second. It was like her third day of work or something like that...I found out days later when I received a call from a neighbor, they found out she was in ICU. Alive but barely. I had to go up and take care of the situation, which isn't great cause Im disabled myself...the blind leading the blind. She survived, but is now permanently disabled, lost her job, basically lost everything. It sucks.
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Angels and ministers of Grace protect her.
 

OG_Zuninja

Rank I

Enthusiast I

201
Virginia Beach, VA, USA
First Name
Jon
Last Name
Zuninja
Then, In November of 2022, tragedy struck the family.

My sister who was a VA Nurse had just moved to the cabin and began work to transform the VA hospital in the area after building out a great program in San Diego. Was hit head on by a semi truck that swerved into her at the last possible second. It was like her third day of work or something like that...I found out days later when I received a call from a neighbor, they found out she was in ICU. Alive but barely. I had to go up and take care of the situation, which isn't great cause Im disabled myself...the blind leading the blind. She survived, but is now permanently disabled, lost her job, basically lost everything. It sucks.
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Holy shit! It's a miracle she survived that at all. That's some serious carnage!
 
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kunstmilch

Rank V
Member

Advocate II

1,597
Pomona, CA, USA
First Name
Erich
Last Name
Wise
Member #

29953

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS call sign: WRFL229
ok, so where was I...

2023
Unfortunately the suspension that was put in (which was good) needed maintenance (duh) but the guys at Reynolds assured me everything was sealed since it was a new system...well, it wasn't. and they hadn't greases the fittings when I brought it in...I also hadn't greased the fittings, since I was told not to. hmm. well by this point the suspension was metal on metal and obviously so...went down and looked around, and well...since im here...

Here is some old "cake" from some old leaks that never got cleaned up...
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and here's some rust that developed after that last winter...no rust before, so I will need to address this before it possibly gets worse...it's very minor surface rust now...but traveling in winter where salt gets used is no good.
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well the
re also seems to be wires that were never routed or protected properly...

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took a horoscope to check the tunnel of the frame...most of the truck is "c" channel but there a section from the front to about middle of foot doors that is box. Honestly it looks better than I thought it would.
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Saw multiple YouTube videos and read some articles...you know, research, lol. Mostly it was Toyota box frames rotting out, but a lot of good problem solving on how to clean em up. here's some more goo...I spent a lot of time and used a lot of products to clean up all the old grease...tried steam, super clean, detergent pods, fabulouso, simple green, brake cleaner (both kinds), etc... the thing that I found worked best of all, citrol. Citrol was by far and away the best thing I used.
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while I'm here...the park lights that I replaced with LED amber were now garbage. ugh. but also the connections were caked.
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Used a sewer line cleaner tip that spins to flush out and clean the boxed part of the frame, after blasting it with lots of detergent. Then will spray in some Mastercoat metal prep and rust remover.
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ok...switching gears a bit...replaced some seam sealer around the "b" pillars as it wasn't holding up anymore. Bought the GM product.
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kunstmilch

Rank V
Member

Advocate II

1,597
Pomona, CA, USA
First Name
Erich
Last Name
Wise
Member #

29953

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS call sign: WRFL229
2023

Addressing sound and heat. Luckily for me theres a lot of good science on these topics. There is also a lot of misunderstanding on the internet it turns out. People seem to be pretty passionate about this as well. I think it's because so much is at stake and it becomes an ideology. For me, I am doing the best I can...mistakes will be made. I enjoy the research and the process. Honestly, being disabled mean I spend way too much time in bed unable to do the things I want...so I dont mind taking it slow and getting it done "right"
Also, science being science...our understandings change with experiments and experience. Here is what I've come up with.

For sound, we need to address mechanical vibrations and airborne sound, which is compressive forces on air. The higher the Hz (pitch) the easier to deal with as these are shorter waves and less "deep" than lower octaves. Having a V8 doesn't help. Having big treaded tires doesn't help. having large metal panels doesn't help. US submarines need to be silent, for I hope obvious reasons. All politics aside, there's a lot of science that has been developed to deal with sound and vibrations. One of the most effective systems (and all of these things should be thought of as systems) is the use of constrained layers. Think of it like a sandwich of two ridged layers with a forgiving middle layer. Now I am way oversimplifying all this of course, but if you are looking for quiet...the system I've implemented works pretty well. Unfortunately it adds weight. Compromise is everywhere.

I have already shown some of the work done and for convenience will just list it here.
1. constrained layer, or dampening mats for mechanical vibration, made from butyl and aluminum sheet, the butyl sticks to the metal panel and created the constrained layer, the thicker the aluminum sheet the better.
2. Viscoelastic, layer this on top as overkill for the dampening of mechanical vibrations. The product used includes anti corrosive agents and pretty effectively seals the area from water and oxygen intrusion as well. This layer adds some mass, but mostly absorbs vibrations and releases that energy as tiny amounts of heat.
3. closed cell foam glued to mass loaded vinyl. Not shown yet, still a ways away from that step...this layer is the layer that does what everyone seems to think the constrained layer does. This layer effectively addresses airborne waves. The foam blocks many of the higher frequencies and the mass loaded vinyl that is attached addresses lower waves. Because the foam is a forgiving layer and the vinyl less so, it acts as another constrained layer, allowing the vinyl to move and absorb most of the frequencies. Added benefit of the foam is thermal effective barrier as well. With this layer, you really want 100% coverage, overlapping here is a good idea, and aluminum tape for any seams...this isn't the layer to skimp on.

For thermal insulation, there is also a lot of good science (hey wha'd'ya know?!) There are three main things to address here (which bring up other issues). Heat can be classified into two main types: sensible heat, which can be felt and measured, and latent heat, which is absorbed or released during a change of state, such as melting or vaporization (think here also of heat soak). Additionally, heat transfer occurs through three mechanisms: conduction, convection, and radiation. We need to address these in ways that are effective.

To address these in my vehicle, I chose the following systems.
1. 1/4" closed cell flame retardant vehicle foam. This addresses direct conduction and stops thermal bridging. I am not particularly happy to use foams but this is the best I found for what I need to address, the other bonus is again sound absorption. (this also effectively acts as a vapor barrier, we can get into that later)
2. 3M SM600L Thinsulate (Compromises: I don't believe 3M when they say this is neutral to health, and I dont like 3M politics, but their products are too effective to ignore here. ) This was designed for acoustic insulation, so added bonus, but has been found to be very effective for stopping convection. I had been thinking of using mineral wool, and do use it in a couple small spots, but this is a better fit for our needs.
3. aluminized foam as the radiant barrier, not the bubble wrap "reflectix" but the same idea at least. This layer, more than the others really depends on proper installation for effectiveness, a lot of people using it and getting minimal effective value. For our use, we have this layer glued to the thinsulate, which acts as a 4" air gap. Both sides are aluminized.

This system isn't static either, it changes around the vehicle dependent on how that location needs to be addressed.

Here is how we addressed the tailgate...not an easy one.

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kunstmilch

Rank V
Member

Advocate II

1,597
Pomona, CA, USA
First Name
Erich
Last Name
Wise
Member #

29953

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS call sign: WRFL229
2023
More cleaning and finding issues...yikes...
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Cleaned and added Metal prep and rust remover. Adds a thin layer of zinc.
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After adding 2 Coates master coat primer.
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After adding 2 coates AG111 satin black.
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Here are some more process photos, hope they might be helpful.
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