What is the difference between a tow strap, snatch strap, and kinetic , and when would you use each?

[Neil Q Smith]

Thanks a lot for all the useful, practical and safety advice in this Forum Thread.
I learned something.

I have a Kinetic Energy Recovery Rope.

I like the idea of also having a chain available for occasional "work tasks".
Need to get one...

Thanks to everyone for sharing.

 

[4xFar Adventures]

For chain you want 3/8" grade 70.

 

[4xFar Adventures]

@Neil Q Smith

Didn't realize you are in Norway. I'm not sure what grades/standards you have, but these are the specs in the USA.

3/8" Grade 70 Transit Chain
WLL (Working Load Limit) 6,600 lbs.
MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) x4 WLL 26,600 lbs.

 

[Neil Q Smith]

@Neil Q Smith

Didn't realize you are in Norway. I'm not sure what grades/standards you have, but these are the specs in the USA.

3/8" Grade 70 Transit Chain
WLL (Working Load Limit) 6,600 lbs.
MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) x4 WLL 26,600 lbs.

Thanks a lot for your reply and Technical Details - much appreciated.

I will take a look into what the requirements are over here in Norway.

Good to have the USA specs for comparison.

Cheers
Neil :)

 

[Chadlyb]

Great question Steve....and now I know....love learning something new that is going to help and keep me safe or others.

 

[000]

Lots of good info, but if possible I always use a winch. Winching is Slow and controllable with much less chance of damaging both vehicles, you can easily stop and figure things out if something bad is happening. Getting a running start and hoping it works without breaking drivetrain parts or whatever you’re anchored to would be a last resort option to me if you could winch.


Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk

 

[Overland California]

As others have said: a Kinetic Rope and Snatch Strap are essentially the same thing. It's like Jacuzzi and hot tub.

I always carry both, a Snatch Strap and a Tow Strap. The Snatch Strap is great for recovery in sand, snow, and mud. The Tow Strap works well in the rocks when you need a slow, consistent tug. More importantly, the Tow Strap is used to pull a dead vehicle off the trail to safety (you'll want consistent tension here).

 

[Overland Rich]

Tow straps of course, as has already been said are for towing in a static pull and that's it. From what I have read a snatch strap and kinetic rope may be used for the same task, a kinetic or dynamic recovery, but they are not equal pieces of equipment. A standard snatch strap depending on brand and age etc has between 10 and 20% stretch to it while a high end kinetic rope will have 30% stretch or more making the recoveries smoother, easier and safer which is why people are trending that direction now.

I have seen some claims that the rope is going to drop faster than the strap if it snaps making it safer but I haven't really seen those substantiated. I would be interested if anyone has any information on that. I have been doing a lot of reading on this lately because I'd like to purchase one soon along with some soft shackles. We are always traveling with families so we want the safest equipment we can get.

I also see a lot of people, most in fact, not using a dampener or winch blanket while doing a snatch recovery even though that type of recovery is more likely to produce a line failure. I have been guilty of this one myself in the past. I will be buying two weighted winch blankets with my kinetic rope, one for each end to aid in making that line drop if it fails rather than coming through the back of my head :-)

I'm actually in the process of trying to decide between kinetic ropes and other items right now to put together a new, much safer recovery kit. For my old LC FJ40 I had a warn winch, old school bent up hook, no dampeners and no shackles and would use my retired rock climbing ropes as winch extension straps and tree straps. That was between the ages of 17 and 21 so live and learn, I'm just glad I never took my head off or anyone else's.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Using a "snatch strap" for towing is not something I would recommend. For a very short distance it would be acceptable. Every time the nylon "snatch strap" stretches the molecules elongate and it takes time for the molecules to return to thier normal structure. Repeated stretching can cause failure well below the straps WLL.

Any strap that stretches is storing energy and can become a "flying object" if they become unattached while under tension. Adding a metal hook or shackle adds to the potential carnage.

Don't buy a strap with metal hooks. Having both a tow and recovery strap covers all bases. My stuff is rated 22k-32k, that 4-5 X's the weight of my truck.

Soft shackles have become main stream and are very affordable, a better option than a bow shackle, although you should have a pair of QUALITY bow shackles in your kit.

A cinch bone for joining two straps is a nice piece and cheap, the Bully BC-902 is under $15, join two straps in seconds, undue in seconds, zero damage.

 

[Lunch Box]

I have seen some claims that the rope is going to drop faster than the strap if it snaps making it safer but I haven't really seen those substantiated. I would be interested if anyone has any information on that. I have been doing a lot of reading on this lately because I'd like to purchase one soon along with some soft shackles. We are always traveling with families so we want the safest equipment we can get.

I also see a lot of people, most in fact, not using a dampener or winch blanket while doing a snatch recovery even though that type of recovery is more likely to produce a line failure. I have been guilty of this one myself in the past. I will be buying two weighted winch blankets with my kinetic rope, one for each end to aid in making that line drop if it fails rather than coming through the back of my head :-)

Can't comment on how it behaves if it snaps, and I hope I don't find out.

I about choked on the cost of Bubba Rope, but I don't leave the house without it. I get called to help out quite a bit and I'm frequently not in the mood to spend all day for free trying to get a vehicle out of a spot it never should've gone in the first place. A kinetic/dynamic rope makes life so nice. Simply hand the stuck driver the shovel while you're hooking up. A firm but gentle tug, and voila! stuck done!

I've watched people snatching stuck vehicles with chains/straps, etc. for ages and I still cringe. It's an accident waiting to happen.

 

[Desert Runner]

Can't comment on how it behaves if it snaps, and I hope I don't find out.

I about choked on the cost of Bubba Rope, but I don't leave the house without it. I get called to help out quite a bit and I'm frequently not in the mood to spend all day for free trying to get a vehicle out of a spot it never should've gone in the first place. A kinetic/dynamic rope makes life so nice. Simply hand the stuck driver the shovel while you're hooking up. A firm but gentle tug, and voila! stuck done!

I've watched people snatching stuck vehicles with chains/straps, etc. for ages and I still cringe. It's an accident waiting to happen.

I have a well equipped recovery kit. And some one as a novice might wonder why they need anywhere the amount of kit I have. I posted on another thread the contents of what I carry.

As commented on above.....I also CHOKED on the cost of a Bubba Rope. I have been researching alternative brands and the cost is becoming more reasonable. Having g a full size xtra cab diesell , Means a 8,000 lb. Starting wt . Unfortunately the size I need(45,000-53,000) jumps in price greatly from Ford ranger or even Tacoma wt. size. This is also even more noticeable with a similar rated...SOFT SHACKLE.

You need a 2+ to 2.5 safety margin, so my 17,5000 lb. Winch is adequate. It is just making sure the recovery gear is up to the task to support it. Bubba Rope recommends a 1.25 size (53,000 lbs) RATING for full -size trucks. And this is where prices start to substantially rise in price, including a cheaper alternative. The other is a question of length. 20 foot or 30 foot? Do you need that extra 10 feet?

So on my list...

A. Bubba type recovery rope ($$$)
B. A 36,000-45,000 rated soft shackle ($$$)
C. A 2nd dampner blacket. ( WARN or ARB)

 

[Desert Runner]

Tow straps have 0-3% stretch
Recovery straps have 10-15% stretch
KERR (Kinetic Energy Recovery Rope) has 25-30% stretch

Leave the tow straps at home. You can use the other two types in terrain like sand, mud, snow. They're not good for use if you're stuck by a rock or log. As stated before, never use a metal shackle to connect two ropes. Use a soft shackle, or the old stand by, a rolled up magazine. Make sure you loop the ends properly around the magazine.


Lay the strap(s) in a zig-zag pattern. That way the stuck driver can see the strap getting taken up and will know when to expect the jolt. It also prevents possible binding around itself when laid out this way. Remove any twists along the length of the strap.

The driver doing the recovery should pull forward until the strap is under slight tension first, and pick a landmark around them. That way, they too will know when to expect the jolt of the recovery. Don't put the pedal to the metal on the first attempted recovery. It's better to take a couple tries to get just enough force than it is to go full force. Remember "mechanical sympathy". Your vehicle is your ride home!

I have 2 foot long pieces of HD 'orange' PVC type of tubing used for underground wirng. Very crush proof, and waterproof, unlike a rolled magazine. and yes,......taking the extra minute to do as the illustration picture shows is both the wise move and your safest move. A hard shackle is a deadly projectale if a strap breaks on either side of it. There is a couple of YOU-TUBE videos of this happening. Your other alternative is the new "soft schackle"....but still use 2 dampner blankets....just in case.