What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

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Downs

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Hunt County Texas
First Name
Joshua
Last Name
Downs
Member #

20468

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KK6RBI / WQYH678
Service Branch
USMC 03-16, FIRE/EMS
So the original canister style filter housing that I had on my CJ2A when I got it always leaked, no matter what I used to try to seal it the exit line at the bottom would leak, I think there are cracks around the port that I can't see with my naked eye.

I finally got tired of cleaning up oil and just decided to do something with it. Usually I'm all in on trying to stay OEM, but this just seemed like a better solution than getting a repro or trying to source a good used unit.

I found a Baldwin filter base that had 1/8npt ports and was listed as being for bypass systems. It listed 3 filters that it was supposed to be used with, and they all looked like they would fit in the space. We did rotate it as seen in the photos to make it easier to remove the filter as in an straight up and down position the alternator would interfere with the fit. I can use a funnel and coffee can to catch the oil during filter changes.

We removed the old bypass canister and hoses. Then we took the mount and cut it down to better fit the Baldwin filter base, then bent up some brake cupro nickel brake line with flared ends to replace the soft lines.

Fired it up and had good oil pressure and no leaks. Seems to have better and more stable oil pressure than before. I'm guessing the hard lines have a smaller ID than the rubber lines and the filter's orifice is on the feed line side instead of on the return post inside the canister like on the original.

For anyone interested, I used

BALDWIN OB1305 By Pass filter base
This filter base will work with the following filters (you can search these in cross-references if you want a WIX or something similar)
B164 (long 6 5/8 inches
B50 (medium length 5 3/8 inches, this is what I used)
BT341 (short 4 3/8 inches)
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