Pathfinder I
You drive a Jeep. You have bigger problems. LOLI feel called out by this, LOL.
Advocate I
Pathfinder I
Definitely not what I'd consider "bolt-on". Nice work!Installed Rough Country steering stabilizer kit on the '01 Tahoe.
Not quite a bolt on.....Maybe I am just picky lately....But I feel I got my money's worth out of the kit.
Had a drip on my head the whole time. Found the radiator is shot and leaking. No complaints, 181K on the original. Glad I found it this way.
* Bend bracket correctly
* Bend U bolts so they fit in bracket holes
* Remove skid plates
* Mount and test fit
* Center punch for new hole, drill pilot hole in bracket and crossmember
* Remove everything
* Round all 90 degree edges with angle grinder (recommend! Saves cuts on hands when working on it later!)
* Cut lower bracket to remove extra material no longer needed due to mounting change
* Blacksmith tip of lower bracket so it sits flush with crossmember
* Find acceptable hardware and drill new hole to fit
* Debur all cuts, drills, grinds and paint silver
* Relieve lower control arm mount by 1/16 inch in one spot
* Remove wire harness clips on front of engine pan, replace with tie wraps (for clearance from the top of the u bolts)
* Mount stabilizer and brackets
* Test fit skid plate, adjust one mounting pad blacksmith style
* Find hardware and mount skid plate with one longer bolt and nut (pass through new bracket)
* Make template for upcoming aluminum diamond plate brush guard (to replace plastic POS)
* Make note to order dust boot (oops)
* Lube steering joints
* Verify clearance and operation
* Order new radiator, upper and lower hoses
* Grab a beer- done for the day!
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Enthusiast III
Weight reduction stage 1?I was clearancing the front fender with the angle grinder when I noticed the passenger side sway bar end link was missing.
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Pathfinder I
New technology! They break away when you romp too hard thus freeing up your suspension for more articulation.Weight reduction stage 1?
Enthusiast III
Member III
Member III
Member III
16986
Now get yourself a rubber toilet plunger, stick in in soapy water, throw some water on those bed dents, slap that toilet plunger over the dent, push it in and give it a yank in a couple of places. Walla, no more body dents.Added some fender flares and got the proper length rear shocks for the truck. The nice thing about the flairs is they help cover up all the dents...
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Member III
huh, I'll give that try...seems like it'd workNow get yourself a rubber toilet plunger, stick in in soapy water, throw some water on those bed dents, slap that toilet plunger over the dent, push it in and give it a yank in a couple of places. Walla, no more body dents.
Member III
16986
It only works on large dents that are not crinkled. It will get out most push in type dents like yours. Let me know if it works for you.huh, I'll give that try...seems like it'd work
Member III
Member III
16986
I love old architecture. The two story looks to be restoreable (sound bones) What fun that would be for me.Took the truck, wife and dogs to the Blue Ridge cinnabar (mercury) mine and Four Horsemen Hotel in out in the Ochoco Mountains. The old hopper looks like it was driven with a transfer case.View attachment 133890View attachment 133891View attachment 133892View attachment 133893View attachment 133894View attachment 133895
Advocate I
Member II
Pathfinder I
[/QUOTE]I came off the Whipsaw trail up in Canada this Summer and went to hook up my sway bars and one of the Steinheiser (spelling) and one of the links had somehow unscrewed itself. Long drive back to Walla Walla Wa without front sway bars. Went back to the stock end links and fixed my darned Rubicon push button disconnects. ‘Breaks’ every time a little water gets in the mechanism and has to be disassembled and cleaned/re-greased. Anyway, bummer it’s disappeared.
I was clearancing the front fender with the angle grinder when I noticed the passenger side sway bar end link was missing.
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