Used Truck Shopping--Looking for Smoothest Ride on Forest/BLM Roads.

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ceceOR91

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Newbie here. I did some research. I'm hoping you guys can critique it.

When I drive my car on dirt backcountry roads. It's very rocky and bumpy and overall uncomfortable. Is this unavoidable or are there actually ways to make the ride smooth and comfortable?

My goal is not to seek out the most challenging roads, but just to drive on your average backcountry road to seek remote dispersed camping areas. I'd also like some storage space in the vehicle for coolers, tables, chairs, camping equipment.

My research has pointed to:
Lower tire inflation
Shocks
Lift
Bigger tires (?)

I'd like to budget at $5000-$7000. I'm thinking I should look for a vehicle that already has these qualities, provided you guys confirm their importance :)
 

MMc

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You can find a truck in CA for that number. I would not by a lifted or heavily modified in CA. You have no idea what it has been put through.I would not want to purchase one of my trucks when I am done with it. A stock 4X4 in CA is another matter, most CA people don't use the 4x4 and are in very good shape. For what you are doing you could get by with a 2 wheel drive also. Do not get a truck with a body lift, body lifts are for looks not performance.

There are 2 schools about softening the ride, leave it mostly stock, change out the shocks and air down. The other is to do suspension lift, (shock, A arms and springs) larger tires. You can soften the ride by having 2" or 3" addition travel with softer shocks and springs. If you go to a bigger tire you need to look at changing out the differential gears to accommodate the larger tires.(many don't do this) Airing down make a big difference with the ride.

What I did to my Ram 2500, went to a 315/70/17 tire, and 411 gears, progressive leaf springs (9 springs instead of 4) Fox all around. no lift other a inch or so in the rear because of the springs and what the tires gave me. I am very happy with what it does. I do have a car dealer that I use to buy wholesale is So. Cal. Price is about the same as KBB dealer trade in price. YMMV
Edit: For a suspension lift see Camburg long travel suspension kits. It will give you a idea what it takes. $$$$
 
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Charles M

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What you have posted is a good start. I would point out a lift that does not lengthen wheel travel will have no affect on how smooth the ride is. As posted above a lift with extra travel is good.


My order would be.

Lower Tire pressure
Quality Shocks and the right springs.
Proper tires to match the roads you will travel
Personally I like the Tahoe lots of room inside and you should be able to find one at a good price.

The most important items for a smooth ride is proper springs and a good shock. If you get a truck keep in mind they are normally sprung heavy to carry extra payloads. A SUV set up with the right suspension can b very smooth. With the suspension on my Tahoe I can do back roads at almost any speed. Not that I recommend it but 75 mph on a bumpy dirt road is pretty smooth with it.

Tire size 17 is a better rim size than a 20 inch because if you are running the same diameter of tire the 17 will have more sidewall so it will be able to flex more and smooth out the ride better.. The bigger the tire the more sidewall you will have but, you do not need to go real big.
 
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ceceOR91

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There are 2 schools about softening the ride, leave it mostly stock, change out the shocks and air down. The other is to do suspension lift, (shock, A arms and springs) larger tires. You can soften the ride by having 2" or 3" addition travel with softer shocks and springs. If you go to a bigger tire you need to look at changing out the differential gears to accommodate the larger tires.(many don't do this) Airing down make a big difference with the ride.
Excuse my ignorance here, but the 2nd school of thought--suspension lift + larger tires has everything that first one does and more, right?

Does it just basically come down to whether one thinks the money spent on the suspension lift + tires is worth the extra smoothness versus just doing shocks + air down?
 

ceceOR91

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BTW, I'm sort of dead set on a 2000-2006 (9th gen.) Chevy Suburban.

I don't mind getting 2wd. However it seems that 2wd is rated for diameter 16 tires, whereas 4wd allows 16 or 17. I don't know if this should be considered?
 
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Charles M

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Excuse my ignorance here, but the 2nd school of thought--suspension lift + larger tires has everything that first one does and more, right?

Does it just basically come down to whether one thinks the money spent on the suspension lift + tires is worth the extra smoothness versus just doing shocks + air down?
Just a lift does not make it smoother unless the lift adds more travel.

The suburban will be a good choice and to get a better ride will not take that much.
Nothing wrong with 16 inch tire they will have more sidewall flex.
 
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MMc

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Excuse my ignorance here, but the 2nd school of thought--suspension lift + larger tires has everything that first one does and more, right?

Does it just basically come down to whether one thinks the money spent on the suspension lift + tires is worth the extra smoothness versus just doing shocks + air down?
Yes, Adding the extra travel and softing the overall ride. The tire has 15" of travel instead 12", these numbers are examples not real. The body of the truck is going down or up when you are at the end of the travel.
15" 16" 17" are all great wheel sizes. When you go to a 18" or bigger you are in for a rougher ride. I am running 315, 70, 17 (315 is about 34.5 tire) at 35# when I am on dirt roads, drop to 20-25 in sand and bad roads.

The extra travel allows you to go faster also. Look at a Trophy truck or a class 1 score race car, they have 30" of travel in the rear and 28" up front.
 

Billiebob

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Newbie here. I did some research. I'm hoping you guys can critique it.

When I drive my car on dirt backcountry roads. It's very rocky and bumpy and overall uncomfortable. Is this unavoidable or are there actually ways to make the ride smooth and comfortable?

My goal is not to seek out the most challenging roads, but just to drive on your average backcountry road to seek remote dispersed camping areas. I'd also like some storage space in the vehicle for coolers, tables, chairs, camping equipment.

My research has pointed to:
Lower tire inflation
Shocks
Lift
Bigger tires (?)

I'd like to budget at $5000-$7000. I'm thinking I should look for a vehicle that already has these qualities, provided you guys confirm their importance :)
First, most important factor for a smooth ride is unsprung weight. The sin we all commit is buying bigger, always heavier tires. The heavier a tire is, the harder it is to control.

I went from 33x10.50 KO2s to 7.50R16s last summer. 8# weight saving on each wheel. Night and day difference in ride quality, and fuel consumption. I gained 5mpg, an extra 95 miles between gas stops.

Stay stock, look for the best low milage stock truck you can find. Don't buy a Dodge, every Dodge I have been in rides like a lumber wagon on a rubber block suspension. And buy a full size half ton if it will carry your needs. Old Lincolns and Cadillacs were like living rooms on wheels because they were big and heavy with tiny, light wheels and tires. Full size half tons are like that today.

1978_Lincoln_Continental_Town_Car,_front_right.jpg
 
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Shakes355

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It gets a little complex when we start talking spring rates and such, so it's easy to get sucked in to the nitty-gritty. For your purposes, a suburban is a solid choice. Both 2wd ad 4wd will use torsion bar suspension up front, so any lifting at all will increase the harshness of the ride to an extent (in my personal experience) that will need to be compensated for with good shocks and bigger rubber.

My personal suggestion would be to hold off on a lift. Start with a really good set of shocks that are good for 0-2" of lift and upsize your tires. Go to any major tire installer like Discount tire and they can give you the information you need about how big you can go without rubbing. The rear of those like to sag so finding cheap spacers for the rear springs will get you back up off the bump stops and let your shocks do all the work.

Keep in mind: E rated (10 ply) and LT tires have more layers. While adding strength and toughness, they are heavier and ride harder- most often requiring a lower psi than a P tire for the same softness off road. I personally think the trade off is worth it, but it is not required.
 

Dru13

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Lexus GX or Lx I believe come with factory air suspension. You can find them for less than 8k. The good thing is they usually never left the pavement and are in good shape.
 

Shakes355

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Another note: Some of those suburbans came with magna-ride/air-ride suspension. They ride super nice. Until it comes time to replace them, that is. The shocks are super spendy and many people convert them back to standard suspension after a failure. So keep a look out and factor that into your decision
 
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Downs

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Surplus Tahoe.

Honda Ridgeline would probably be perfect for this intended use.

For me I've had best luck with lowering tire pressure and disconnecting my swaybar. Allows the axle (or control arms) to move more freely on their own without effecting the body as much.
 
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You set on a suburban? I had a 2005 z71 and I updated to Monroe reflex monotubes. It rode awesome. Crank up the t bars a little to get the sag out. I had 265 Hercules at tires. Overall the rig rode great after these Mods. Good luck. I do recommend what I did. For a lift go Ford f150 keys up front and h2 springs in the rear with 285s. Perfect rig for back country travel.
 
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Red Mountain

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Love the idea of a suburban, especially the older ones! Not much to add to the good technical advice posted here. I have a 2014 Off Road Tacoma with an icon suspension lift, and it is not as smooth riding as my v-8 4wd 4Runner which could get us to just about any BLM campsite we needed to go but I did have Bilstein shocks. My former GMC Yukon was more roomy and pavement smooth, so a tweaked Suburban/Tahoe sounds like a great ride, and fits the budget. Get what you like for “your average backcountry road” and welcome! Happy Trails!
 

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Since you specifically mention "truck " in the title of the thread...It's hard to beat a GMC Sierra for a smooth-riding truck, stock, right out of the box. The Suburban, if it is not too long for you, could also be a a real comfy ride. They are , essentially the same thing.

The brand new Ram trucks ride very well. But your budget of 5k to 7k rules them out.

I happen to have a GMC Sierra and find it rides like a Cadillac. Having said that, if I were to get a chance to pick up a third vehicle, I'll probably grab up a 2013 Tahoe Z71. That would also do very nicely.

Getting a lift and bigger tires wont necessarily get you a more comfy ride unless you need that extra height to get up over debris or obstacles. For me, I remove the "chin strap" that GM places along the bottom edge of the front bumper. That's a big help in terms of clearance, since it's really only there as a wind spoiler. If after that you still want some lift and want a comfy ride, you might just consider leveling the front end, which comes stock with a bit of a downward rake. l have heard great things about Bilstein 5100's. I plan to use the Bilsteins in my Sierra when I change the old shocks out soon. I've heard they are the best ride and they are adjustable, so you can level up the front end.

...Someone mentioned cranking the Torsion bars...that will get you lift, but it will actually harshen the ride quality. Anyway, the newer GM k1500 products dont even have torsion bars anymore, they have been coil-overs since 2007. Coil overs provide superior ride comfort in conjunction with thier Independent Front Suspensions.

I wouldnt even go overboard with the tires, if you plan on being on forest roads. You probably wont need something like a Duratrac or a BF Goodrich All Terrain. They are great tires by all accounts, but for forest roads, you probably wont need something that aggressive. Based on what you've written, you'll be on packed dirt or gravel, not so much rock crawling, I'm guessing. Goodyear Trailrunner, BF Goodrich Long Trail, Rugged Trail, or Falken Wildpeak should do you very well.

If fuel economy is at issue, I can tell you that my 2014 Sierra 5.3 liter V8 gets the same fuel economy as my 1999 Grand Cherokee 6 cylinder 4.0 liter. Mainly because of the newer GM engines making use of cylinder deactivation/ Active Fuel Management. The brand new Colorados and Tacomas dont necessarily get any better fuel economy, either. So smaller isnt always better, and often does not have the ride quality.

So, in a nutshell, in my eyes, for what you are asking, find a 2007 or newer stock GM (Chevy or GMC) full size K1500 truck (Silverado or Sierra) or full size SUV (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL) with the Z71 package, front bumper chin strap removed, and Bilstien 5100 shocks up front and even only moderate offroad tires will get you exactly where you want to go in comfort and ease with plenty of room for the significant other, the dog, and all the gear you could need to carry.
 
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ThundahBeagle

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Go test drive a Colorado ZR2, best off road ride I have ever experienced in 50 years. It handles just as nice on road.
Personally I've been excited that GM had thrown such a kick@$$ hat into the offroad ring. With the Ranger out of production for all those years, Toyota gobbled up the midsize truck offroad kudos, and now, it's a real duke-out.

Having said that, I think the OP's stated budget is about ten times less than a new ZR2 would cost.
 
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If you plan on modding this down the road (suspension, bumpers, roof racks), make sure you don't get something with little to no aftermarket support (off-road). Some of the older vehicles have none.
When people talk to me about modding vehicles (drag, track, off-road) I have them research how available the mods are. The more companies that support what you want, the easier it is to get what you want. An example would be long travel suspension for an S-10 pu vs a Tacoma/Ranger in the same year. Good luck on the S-10.
 
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ThundahBeagle

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If you do wind up with a GMT900 platform (2008 -2013 pickup, Tahoe, Yukon), they already start ot with a good amount of height. They come out of the box sort of ready for something like a logging trail or fire road. It doesnt take much more than leveling the front (2" budget boost or Bilstein 5100' on high setting), peeling off the front bumper chin strap, and adding bigger tires (32" or 33") to make them very confident on that type of trail. We did them all the time in my fathers stock '78 Ford f100 2wd, and we did it loaded with as much wood as we could cram into that 8 foot bed. Add those things I just mentioned and you really should do quite well. As for after market -there are a number of budget boost lifts, coilover shock lifts, bash plates, truck caps, roof racks, wheels and tires and lights that should keep you in good stead