Understanding wheels and tires

[cssimeur]

Ultra basic question. I run a 2000 4x4 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71. It's got stock wheels, no lift. The tires are 265/75R16. I've taken it onto forest service roads and the like, nothing insane, but roads where I was glad to have the 4x4.

I feel that I've started to reach my comfort level and limit on what I already have and am interested in upgrading my wheels (?) and tires. I don't have any interest in rock crawling, but I would like to get something that is going to give me room to grow a bit into more serious trails.

I am looking at General Grabber ATX or Falken Wildpeak A/T3W for tires. What I don't really understand is how I figure out what sort of wheel I should get. I understand, given my stock rig, I don't want to put something on that is so large it's going to create rubbing in the wheel well with turns or require me to cut out fender flares.

Does anyone have a recommendation regarding wheels, and when I'm looking at wheels for overlanding, what I actually need to keep in mind when I'm venturing into actually changing from stock wheels to something else? (Just as a for example, at the moment I have so many things I'm trying to figure out that I don't even know if it's important--aluminum vs steel both for weight considerations and durability, how much regarding size is either too little or too much, does pcd matter and why, etc).

Basically, is there an in depth article or primer on wheels and overlanding in a full size truck?

 

[472HemiGTX]

Some things to consider would be width, diameter and offset.

Width- Depending on what tire you choose, it will have an optimum recommended wheel width to give you the best footprint. Choosing a significantly wider than stock wheel has the potential to push the face of tire and wheel combo out, creating a larger turning arc and potential clearance issues in full lock turn situations.

Diameter- a larger wheel diameter by itself will not create clearance issues, that is dictated by tire diameter. Going to a wheel diameter smaller than OE may create a rubbing issue on the spindle steering and possibly brake caliper inside/on the backside of the wheel. Also when using a large diameter wheel, for example 20", the tire will have a shorter, stiffer sidewall and airing down will not provide as significant of results in creating a larger tread patch as a same diameter tire that fits a 16"/17" diameter wheel.

Offset- Offset is the position of the wheel mounting surface in relationship to the center of the wheel.



A zero offset wheel will have the mounting surface centered in the wheel. Positive offset positions the mounting surface towards the front of wheel, effectively pushing the wheel/tire assembly in towards the vehicle center. Too much positive offset can create rubbing issues on the inner fenders and suspension/steering components. Negative offset positions the mounting surface towards the inside of the wheel, pushing the tire/wheel combination out. Too much negative offset can create rub issues on the fender lip and bumper or air dam.

Steel vs aluminum- for most situations, aluminum would be a better choice, less unsprung weight, lots of style options and the majority of aftermarket aluminum wheels built today are much better and stronger construction than the old cast wheels that used to be sold.

A 2000 Silverado 1500 came stock with a 16" diameter 7" wide wheel with a positive 31MM offset.
A 16" or 17" diameter, 8" width with a 0 to positive 10MM offset would not be an issue with the appropriate sized tire, dependent an your suspension modifications.

Hope this helps.

 

[cssimeur]

Some things to consider would be width, diameter and offset.

Width- Depending on what tire you choose, it will have an optimum recommended wheel width to give you the best footprint. Choosing a significantly wider than stock wheel has the potential to push the face of tire and wheel combo out, creating a larger turning arc and potential clearance issues in full lock turn situations.

Diameter- a larger wheel diameter by itself will not create clearance issues, that is dicatated by tire diameter. Going to a wheel diameter smaller than OE may create a rubbing issue on the spindle steering arm inside/on the backside of the wheel. Also when using a large diameter wheel, for example 20", the tire will have a shorter, stiffer sidewall and airing down will not provide as significant of results in creating a larger tread patch as a tire that fits a 16"/17" diameter wheel.

Offset- Offset is the position of the wheel mounting surface in relationship to the center of the wheel.

View attachment 142230

A zero offset wheel will have the mounting surface centered in the wheel. Positive offset positions the mounting surface towards the front of wheel, effectively pushing the wheel/tire assembly in towards the vehicle center. Too much positive offset can create rubbing issues on the inner fenders and suspension/steering components. Negative offset positions the mounting surface towards the inside of the wheel, pushing the tire/wheel combination out. Too much negative offset can create rub issues on the fender lip and bumper or air dam.

Steel vs aluminum- for most situations, aluminum would be a better choice, less unsprung weight, lots of style options and the majority of aftermarket aluminum wheels built today are much better and stronger construction than the old cast wheels that used to be sold.

A 2000 Silverado 1500 came stock with a 16" diameter 7" wide wheel with a positive 31MM offset.
A 16" or 17" diameter, 8" width with a 0 to positive 10MM offset would not be an issue with the appropriate sized tire, dependent an your suspension modifications.

Hope this helps.

WOW, thank you so much for the knowledge and advice!

 

[Ralph]

Here You are with tire&rims comparison.

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Remember making ET too extreme rig looks better but handling and reriability of bearings lows down rapidly.
In Overlanding The BIG issue is to go far without trouble - so ....

 

[kaine ellis]

Ultra basic question. I run a 2000 4x4 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71. It's got stock wheels, no lift. The tires are 265/75R16. I've taken it onto forest service roads and the like, nothing insane, but roads where I was glad to have the 4x4.

I feel that I've started to reach my comfort level and limit on what I already have and am interested in upgrading my wheels (?) and tires. I don't have any interest in rock crawling, but I would like to get something that is going to give me room to grow a bit into more serious trails.

I am looking at General Grabber ATX or Falken Wildpeak A/T3W for tires. What I don't really understand is how I figure out what sort of wheel I should get. I understand, given my stock rig, I don't want to put something on that is so large it's going to create rubbing in the wheel well with turns or require me to cut out fender flares.

Does anyone have a recommendation regarding wheels, and when I'm looking at wheels for overlanding, what I actually need to keep in mind when I'm venturing into actually changing from stock wheels to something else? (Just as a for example, at the moment I have so many things I'm trying to figure out that I don't even know if it's important--aluminum vs steel both for weight considerations and durability, how much regarding size is either too little or too much, does pcd matter and why, etc).

Basically, is there an in depth article or primer on wheels and overlanding in a full size truck?

I would be comftorable running a 285/70 on that truck. I personally have owned and run the size and was the best for stock suspensiin and wheels

 

[FJ Montana]

I know I’m late to the game but I have a 1999 Silverado with 265/75/16 General Grabbers ATx’s and I absolutely love them. They do phenomenal on the interstate and are ultra quiet while out on the trails they’ve held up well. I’ve used them in mud ice and snow and haven’t had any issues. I’ve heard horror stories regarding ATx’s if you haven’t rotated them but so far I’m a staunch supporter of them. They do the job and look good too.