Solar Panel Open Discussion/Debate/Review

[Brewbud]

I used this 10 gauge wire I found on Amazon for my 100W panel to my GZ battery. I really like this wire because it is flexible. I made two 25ft sections. There was some question on the reviews about it being true 10g or not. A 30A Anderson connector does not want to crimp on it so I am going to say if it isn't 10g it is at least very close. A 45A works well. Invest in a good set of crimpers if you are making your own cables.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Typically if you are going to run a 2 wire cable over the ground it would come with a outer jacket that protected it and kept the cables together until they reached their termination point.

Ok Viking, I have been researching my ass off and this is what I now know to be true. On our 100w solar panels the wire size depends on the number of amps your controller is capable of handling. Example: My solar set up came with a 10a controller which will handle anything up to 10a coming from the solar panel or panels. My solar panels and yours will only generate 6+ amps so I am safe with my controller being only 10a. That also means my wire size minimum can be 18ga. In your case, you have the same panels and the same amps coming from it but you have a 30a controller I am assuming. Both your solar and mine come with a 10 ga wire which will handle 30a even though our solar panels will never supply that many amps. The reason they furnish you with the 10 ga wires is because you may triple your solar panel which would put out 18-20a, (could even add more solar panels @ 6a to the each 100w panel) still going through your 30a controller, making the wire size of 10 ga still adequate no matter how long it is with limitations I assume.. The same for me except my controller is on a10a controller. So, I would have to up my controller amps in my system to a min of 20a (30a is better) to handle the tippling of my panels to 300w. If I never enlarged my wattage and only had to deal with 6amps then an 18 ga wire will be safe, better yet 16 ga for added safety. Now, we are fortunate that both our solar kits have the 10 ga wire so that we can enlarge our solar array wattage without changing wire size and only concern ourselves with making sure our controllers can handle the amps coming through the solar panels to our batteries... Ha ha and you guys out there thought I was a Dumbo. Well I was but I'm getting smarted by the minute. Who said you cant teach an old dog new tricks. That's easy, it's getting him to remember the new info long enough to hook it all up (dementia bound) !!!

 

[Viking1204]

@Lanlubber I certainly never thought you were a Dumbo, I think you have figured things out quite well. I'm going with 10 ga for the simple fact of it being more durable if I'm going to be running it across the ground from wherever my Flexopower is to my solar panel. I haven't bought a charger controller yet since I don't need it for my Flexopower and I never did see one I approved of at an Amazon Prime Day sale price.

 

[Prerunner1982]

fwiw I use 12 gauge landscape wire that I picked up at the local hardware store to connect my panel to the controller.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

@Lanlubber I certainly never thought you were a Dumbo, I think you have figured things out quite well. I'm going with 10 ga for the simple fact of it being more durable if I'm going to be running it across the ground from wherever my Flexopower is to my solar panel. I haven't bought a charger controller yet since I don't need it for my Flexopower and I never did see one I approved of at an Amazon Prime Day sale price.

I'm the one that called me dumb sometime I wonder !
Well because of how I will use my 100w solar panels when NOT camping out (to power my powerless shop and storage building) and because the batteries will receive a constant charge and discharge that helps them live longer, I will add another 200w+ solar panel for my storage building-shop needs. Maybe even add two more deep cycle batteries to the two I already have. With 300w+ of solar and 4 deep cell batteries that should be a decent amount of powers for most of my tools and provide me some light in those buildings when I need it. I'll add another 30a controller just to handle the 200w+ solar that will be permanent for the buildings and allow me to pick up and go with the portable 100w system fairly easy on my more than 3 days ventures. Whether I take the Scamp or just go in the LRD2, I will have the 100w solar with me without it affecting the system for the storage buildings.
If you find a decent 30a controller before I do please let me let know.
This is a fun project since I am still home bound it gives me something to do besides pick my nose

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

fwiw I use 12 gauge landscape wire that I picked up at the local hardware store to connect my panel to the controller.

Do you know how many amps your solar is producing ? 12 ga should be good enough for up to about 12a or so. (for every 100w solar you will get 6+ amps). What size charge controller do you have ?

 

[Prerunner1982]

I have a single 100w panel and think I have seen up to 7 amps, I am running a 20a controller.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Thanks, now I know. What these companies are trying to sell me is a grid tied system. I won't do that in my current house as I plan to sell and move and don't need to take on anymore debt I can't completely recoup in the sale.

My plan is to sell my current house, 2070 sq. ft. house close to the water and move into a townhouse to save money in the next 6 months to a year. With the equity I get from the sale of my house I should be able to pay off my debt and buy my future off grid property. I want a minimum of 60 acres but would prefer around 100 acres of land mostly covered in planted pines. With this I can start building my hunting camp. By the time my youngest graduates High School I should be able to sell off some of the pines and use that money to build my off grid dream home! This will be an energy efficient home with its own well and off grid power from solar. I'm not a builder so I will seek help from friends and a builder I know to assist me to help save money. By then I hope to have taught myself enough about solar to install my own off grid solar system and save money on labor. I've read Will's book and ordered another book to read today. Time will tell if my plan works but right now I'm pretty motivated so we'll see.

Amazon wants to charge me $9.99 a month to use the - - -? You sent. Do you have to pay to read ? I already have to pay that amount for prime service.

 

[Brewbud]

When in doubt always go with a bigger gauge wire. A lot of people make a key mistake by not using the total length as being the out and back distance (see #1 below). If using an online calculator, most will take this into account and you will not need to double the distance. If using just a chart you should double.

Wire Gauge Design Procedure

1. calculate total length of wire from source to device and back again
2. determine amount of current in wire
3. determine Voltage for to be carried

Note! Wire is usually sized based on 3% (0.36 V in a 12 Volt DC circuit). Always oversize wires if voltage drop is critical.

The calculator below shows at least 11 gauge wire for a 100W panel at a distance of 25 feet. Best to go with 10 gauge for the extra margin. In truth, the panel is probably pushing out closer to 18V so there is even a bit more safety margin built-in depending on where the controller is in your system (more voltage = smaller wire needed for a given amperage). Mine is at the battery.

Wire sizing calculator for Solar Panel Arrays

 

[Aaron Niemi]

For those who can't see the amazon links properly, make sure you don't have an adblocker plugin blocking them.
HTH
-Aaron

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

I have a single 100w panel and think I have seen up to 7 amps, I am running a 20a controller.

You have a Renology don't you?

For those who can't see the amazon links properly, make sure you don't have an adblocker plugin blocking them.
HTH
-Aaron

How would I find out ? Is an add blocked good or bad ?

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

When in doubt always go with a bigger gauge wire. A lot of people make a key mistake by not using the total length as being the out and back distance (see #1 below). If using an online calculator, most will take this into account and you will not need to double the distance. If using just a chart you should double.

Wire Gauge Design Procedure

1. calculate total length of wire from source to device and back again
2. determine amount of current in wire
3. determine Voltage for to be carried

Note! Wire is usually sized based on 3% (0.36 V in a 12 Volt DC circuit). Always oversize wires if voltage drop is critical.

The calculator below shows at least 11 gauge wire for a 100W panel at a distance of 25 feet. Best to go with 10 gauge for the extra margin. In truth, the panel is probably pushing out closer to 18V so there is even a bit more safety margin built-in depending on where the controller is in your system (more voltage = smaller wire needed for a given amperage). Mine is at the battery.

Wire sizing calculator for Solar Panel Arrays

(In truth, the panel is probably pushing out closer to 18V so there is even a bit more safety margin.)
How do you know the 100w solar panel puts out 18v ? I was told wire size id determined by amps, not volts.
Lanlubber

 

[Road]

(In truth, the panel is probably pushing out closer to 18V so there is even a bit more safety margin.)
How do you know the 100w solar panel puts out 18v ? I was told wire size id determined by amps, not volts.
Lanlubber

Check the link he provided for the Wire Calculator, Jim, it may help make more sense of things.

 

[Prerunner1982]

You have a Renology don't you?

Yes I have a Renogy panel and controller.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Check the link he provided for the Wire Calculator, Jim, it may help make more sense of things.

Will do, thanks Road

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Check the link he provided for the Wire Calculator, Jim, it may help make more sense of things.

Yes the calculator works. There is a simpler way I think that requires no calculations. All you do is find out how many amps your solar panel puts out (or combination of panels) add them up and look at a wire chart which tells you how many amps the wire will carry. Select the wire that is large enough to carry the amp load.
So darn complicated sometime because there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Road]

Well now that I have my solar panel I have a question for those of you with a Flexopower. What kind of cable are you using to connect the solar panel to the Flexopower to charge it? The solar panel comes with MC4 connectors and the Flexopower comes with what I assume is a female Anderson connector. I'm on Amazon now looking but curious to what others have used. Since my solar panel will be portable I'm looking for a maybe a 15' - 25' heavy duty cable that can be run across the ground.

Below is what I've found so far, looking for better options as this doesn't look overly heavy duty. Looking for a cable that isn't two separate cables.

.

If thinking about making your own, one thing to consider is if the wire you purchase is suitable for being exposed to weather or not. The sheathing on some landscape, household, and speaker type wire may degrade and become brittle when exposed to sun and weather regularly.

Another thing to consider if making your own is flexibility. The outfit I got my folding panel from had promised upon sale an extension cable would be shipped to me but never followed through. I needed a 30' extension, shopped around and could find nothing that wasn't wicked expensive, so bought 10AWG wire, separate red and black, and taped them together every foot or so with an inline fuse at the end closest to my power center.

Inexpensive, has served me very well and has worked great for almost two years, and has no loss that I can detect (still 7+ amp at the controller). It has been stiff from the beginning, though, and does not lay well along the run or coil well when putting away.

I have since learned that the higher the strand count, the more flexible and the more expensive a wire will be. Think of how inexpensive in comparison, but how stiff, household Romex solid wire is.

Now I want a longer run than the 45' I have (15' of flexible that came with my panel and 30' of my recalcitrant diy extension) so am trying a few different 10 gauge wire to see what might be most suitable. I bought a couple 30' lengths of Solar PV Two-Conductor Tray Cable , which is flame and sun-resistant but also stiff, and meant for permanent solar applications, so I'll use it for those times I won't be moving my panels much or if I install a couple panels on a building at some point.

I can do my own Anderson connectors, so ordered today 10' of BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Ultra Flexible just to experiment with it, even though separate black and red. Very high strand count, super flexible, so should be easy to form into one cable. If I like it, I'll get a couple spools of 50' and make up some 25' extensions.

I'm interested in how your wire holds up over time, @Brewbud, and if you notice any degradation or brittleness, as it is half the cost of what I'm considering. You're absolutely right about getting a good crimper, too. It can make all the difference in making a good cable with good connectors.

.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

.

If thinking about making your own, one thing to consider is if the wire you purchase is suitable for being exposed to weather or not. The sheathing on some landscape, household, and speaker type wire may degrade and become brittle when exposed to sun and weather regularly.

Another thing to consider if making your own is flexibility. The outfit I got my folding panel from had promised upon sale an extension cable would be shipped to me but never followed through. I needed a 30' extension, shopped around and could find nothing that wasn't wicked expensive, so bought 10AWG wire, separate red and black, and taped them together every foot or so with an inline fuse at the end closest to my power center.

Inexpensive, has served me very well and has worked great for almost two years, and has no loss that I can detect (still 7+ amp at the controller). It has been stiff from the beginning, though, and does not lay well along the run or coil well when putting away.

I have since learned that the higher the strand count, the more flexible and the more expensive a wire will be. Think of how inexpensive in comparison, but how stiff, household Romex solid wire is.

Now I want a longer run than the 45' I have (15' of flexible that came with my panel and 30' of my recalcitrant diy extension) so am trying a few different 10 gauge wire to see what might be most suitable. I bought a couple 30' lengths of Solar PV Two-Conductor Tray Cable , which is flame and sun-resistant but also stiff, and meant for permanent solar applications, so I'll use it for those times I won't be moving my panels much or if I install a couple panels on a building at some point.

I can do my own Anderson connectors, so ordered today 10' of BNTECHGO 10 Gauge Silicone Wire Ultra Flexible just to experiment with it, even though separate black and red. Very high strand count, super flexible, so should be easy to form into one cable. If I like it, I'll get a couple spools of 50' and make up some 25' extensions.

I'm interested in how your wire holds up over time, @Brewbud, and if you notice any degradation or brittleness, as it is half the cost of what I'm considering. You're absolutely right about getting a good crimper, too. It can make all the difference in making a good cable with good connectors.

.

I'm lost, why do you need a 10ga black and a red cable. I have found these videos helpful. Check it out.

solar wire size video - Search Videos

www.bing.com

 

[tony chatman]

i picked up 2 100 watt flex panel for emergency response trailer with controller off e bay panel was $115 each .thin light weight .

 

[Road]

I'm lost, why do you need a 10ga black and a red cable. I have found these videos helpful. Check it out.

solar wire size video - Search Videos

www.bing.com

.
It's the same as having a two-conductor wire in a covered cable, just separate. You have a positive (red) and a negative (black) to complete a circuit, just like house wiring, vehicle wiring, etc.