Solar panel for off-grid camping

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Wotan

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Since I did add an ARB fridge to my setup, but am still 'investigating' the best way to add a deep cycle battery, I decided to add another lightweight, but more powerful, solar panel to my gear.

I've had a 24W triple-USB port panel (http://amzn.to/2Bg5Fxs) I use with great success to top off my iPhone and iPad when off grid camping. Figured if it works for the gadgets, it might work for Ruby's battery as well...

So, after some research, I decided to order an ACOPower 12V 105W panel. It comes with one USB port, and built-in alligator clips. Can't wait to give this a test run! http://amzn.to/2BClg7D

If this works as well as the little one, I may add a second unit and wire them together...

fullsizeoutput_217.jpeg LtuW+NBSSMqThFPMjJgZtw.jpg
 

yak51

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Looking forward to your impressions! I have a '98' Chinook, I wonder if that would be good for my fridge.
 
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SAC-CA-Runner

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Wish I saw this post before buying my Renogy 100W panel. I know the Renogy is a good suitcase, but the weight and compactness of this unit makes me want to return my Renogy and get this. Hmmmm....
 

Luis Merlo

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Awesome !....I recently installed a solar controller (20 amp)...and am awaiting the panel i ordered (80 watt)....it's to maintain my Aux. 40 amp Gel/ Deep cycle battery...

24899807_10214870851947877_3259712370835958567_n.jpg

Dokio-50W-60W-70W-80W-40x2Pcs-18V-Flexible-Black-Solar-Panels-China-Foldable-12-24V-Volt.jpg
 
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Wotan

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I also own this ACO panel. Been using it for about 3 months. My trailer has a solar controller built in so I'm not using the included controller. This panel works well and is far more convenient and easier to store than my old 100 watt hard suitcase.

-Curtiss
Thanks for the feedback. Looking forward to using this as well!


Alain (‘Alan’) via OB Talk on iPhone
 

Flipper

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Since I did add an ARB fridge to my setup, but am still 'investigating' the best way to add a deep cycle battery, I decided to add another lightweight, but more powerful, solar panel to my gear.

I've had a 24W triple-USB port panel (http://amzn.to/2Bg5Fxs) I use with great success to top off my iPhone and iPad when off grid camping. Figured if it works for the gadgets, it might work for Ruby's battery as well...

So, after some research, I decided to order an ACOPower 12V 105W panel. It comes with one USB port, and built-in alligator clips. Can't wait to give this a test run! http://amzn.to/2BClg7D

If this works as well as the little one, I may add a second unit and wire them together...

View attachment 42707 View attachment 42708
I have a smaller version of yours I have in my backpack to charge batteries and my 2m handhelds, works great! On my truck I have a 125W solar panel which gives me a 10A charge to a pair of group 31AGMs with a 2KW pure sine wave inverter. Love being off grid! OB!
 

Kent R

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After seeing this I'm upgrading, thanks for the info and look forward to finding out how it works for you.
 

Wotan

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I have a smaller version of yours I have in my backpack to charge batteries and my 2m handhelds, works great! On my truck I have a 125W solar panel which gives me a 10A charge to a pair of group 31AGMs with a 2KW pure sine wave inverter. Love being off grid! OB!
Nice. Yeah, my 24W little one has been in my camping gear for a couple of years. Works great for iPhone, iPad, my Macbook Pro, and charges my handheld CB (the Ham/GMRS is in Ruby, so runs of the battery.)

I was looking at other panels to permanently mount on the roof rack, but with the RTT there's just not enough room up there. And with the separate folding ones, I can 'follow the sun' easier as well. In the summer, you get an average of about 5h of top sunlight, so most of the charging has to happen during that time :)...

Also, considering the weight and size, I could easily add another panel to get me 210W when connected.
 

Wotan

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After seeing this I'm upgrading, thanks for the info and look forward to finding out how it works for you.
Yeah, I started looking at these panels using your posted link from the other post. Figured, due to the low efficiency of solar panels in general, I'd go for the highest wattage I could get for my application - as long as the price weren't exorbitant. These (http://amzn.to/2CM43rH) seem to fit that bill.

I also like that they come with a controller - even though I'll eventually probably get one mounted in Ruby, with fixed wiring to the battery(-ies) and a plugin on the side...
 

SAC-CA-Runner

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Awesome !....I recently installed a solar controller (20 amp)...and am awaiting the panel i ordered (80 watt)....it's to maintain my Aux. 40 amp Gel/ Deep cycle battery...

View attachment 42728

View attachment 42729
What solar controller are you using if you don't mind me asking? Also...are you folks mounting the controller closer to the battery or the panels? Or does it matter as long as you get the right gauge wire? I noticed the ACO has 14ga while the Renogy has 12ga wire which is better for line loss on long runs

Sent from my SM-G935V using OB Talk mobile app
 

Wotan

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What solar controller are you using if you don't mind me asking? Also...are you folks mounting the controller closer to the battery or the panels? Or does it matter as long as you get the right gauge wire? I noticed the ACO has 14ga while the Renogy has 12ga wire which is better for line loss on long runs

Sent from my SM-G935V using OB Talk mobile app
Looks like it's this one... http://amzn.to/2BFqO0Z - Google Photo search to the rescue :)
 

Luis Merlo

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That's the controller...(above pic....thank you @Wotan ) I sourced it from Ebay however....the cable, i cannot recall the gauge but sturdy enough and is only about 50 cms long, as the battery is just below the shelf mounted on a tray direct to the floor...will do a little video when the panel arrives...cheers for now !
 
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4wheelspulling

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What solar controller are you using if you don't mind me asking? Also...are you folks mounting the controller closer to the battery or the panels? Or does it matter as long as you get the right gauge wire? I noticed the ACO has 14ga while the Renogy has 12ga wire which is better for line loss on long runs

Sent from my SM-G935V using OB Talk mobile app
Just want to add and answer your questions. The charge controller should be as close as feasibly possible to the batteries. I would wire at least 10 ga. wire, from solar panel or panels, to the charge controller. From charge controller to batts. I would use the largest gage wire that you can correctly add to the controller, to batts. 10ga. will work to power you outlets for fridge and 12 V assorted assessories. Run as large a wire, 1 ga. + to you inverter. More important than even the size wire is the job and care to correctly attach the electrical connectors. Use a good quality connector tool designed for the job. Not cheap auto store crimpers. Make sure where you run all your wires you protect them. Look up on YouTube, and the like to see how to properly make your connections! It really is important!

Brands to look for on a charge controller? Outback, Morning Star, Xantrex. Look up West Coast Marine, and check out some water proof electrical products!

Why run and be so careful on connecting everything? The wires and connectors do not like vibrations of the road and temperature changes the your vehicle will see. Any wire broken when making the wired connections cut out the ability to transfer the electrical current from your expensive solar setup. You can solder the 10ga. wire connectors, but not solder the connectors from the charge controller, to battery, and battery to inverter. This is do to the amperage and it will melt the Solder in the connections . Hope this helps, Benz.
 

SAC-CA-Runner

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Just want to add and answer your questions. The charge controller should be as close as feasibly possible to the batteries. I would wire at least 10 ga. wire, from solar panel or panels, to the charge controller. From charge controller to batts. I would use the largest gage wire that you can correctly add to the controller, to batts. 10ga. will work to power you outlets for fridge and 12 V assorted assessories. Run as large a wire, 1 ga. + to you inverter. More important than even the size wire is the job and care to correctly attach the electrical connectors. Use a good quality connector tool designed for the job. Not cheap auto store crimpers. Make sure where you run all your wires you protect them. Look up on YouTube, and the like to see how to properly make your connections! It really is important!

Brands to look for on a charge controller? Outback, Morning Star, Xantrex. Look up West Coast Marine, and check out some water proof electrical products!

Why run and be so careful on connecting everything? The wires and connectors do not like vibrations of the road and temperature changes the your vehicle will see. Any wire broken when making the wired connections cut out the ability to transfer the electrical current from your expensive solar setup. You can solder the 10ga. wire connectors, but not solder the connectors from the charge controller, to battery, and battery to inverter. This is do to the amperage and it will melt the Solder in the connections . Hope this helps, Benz.
Good info, thanks! Yeah, the Renogy suitcase system I got comes with a controller and it's all pre-wired with 12ga wire and alligator clips for the battery. It's brand new and REALLY wish I would have done more research before buying as it's heavy at 27lbs and will take up a lot more space. I may just put it up for sale and lose some money on it and buy one of the above mentioned (ACOPOWER) or a Lensun unit. I don't need anything bigger than 100W so a 10amp controller will be fine for me. Anyone want to buy a Renogy 100W suitcase BNIB for a good deal!?!?! HAHA
 
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phxdsrtrat

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ACOPower now offers a 120 watt panel for just a little more. That's the one I would go for at this point.

-Curtiss
 
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