Solar and additional batteries

[Docrandy]

I have a Ram 2500 Cummins that I want to add a solar setup to with a couple of batteries mounted in the bed to power everything when the truck isn't running. I have no idea where to start on this I would love something that I can use the truck's alternator to charge the batteries as I am driving as well. I want to permanently mount the solar panels to the roof of the cab its a crew cab so have plenty of space up there. Any brands to look for or stay away from? how many watts should I look for I see kits on amazon from 100 up to 4 or 600 seem like they just add more panels to the same kits so I am guessing I could add more over time. I have never messed with a system like this so I am completely clueless on all of it. as for what I am wanting it to do I want to be able to run the offroad light bars that are on the truck power a 55+ QT fridge, some fans and maybe a couple of plug in lights at the camp plus charge cell phones and tablets/GPS ect

thanks for any help
Doc

 

[RoarinRow]

You'd probably have to give more detailed information on what you think you are going to power with your solar setup to get more definite answers. In general, I have a 100w Renogy Solar Panel Kit on my roof that is powering a 100amp Renogy Battery in the bed of my truck providing power to a 1000w Pure Sine wave inverter, all covered by my camper shell.

I got the inspiration of putting it together by watching this guy, Will Prowse.

 

[Docrandy]

I listed everything I was planning on using it to power

 

[Docrandy]

but thank you for the video I will watch it now

 

[RoarinRow]

I listed everything I was planning on using it to power

Sorry I meant there is a formula used to calculate how much solar power you need based on the wattage your devices require. Something like this - Solar Power Calculator to assess your power needs | How to size a solar system

 

[Docrandy]

Oh ok thank you! Watching the video as I type this

 

[HohoDad]

Just a thought.. If you permanently mount the panels you will need to park in the sun all the time..... A few years ago when I mounted solar on a motorhome I used mounts that could be tilted or removed with the pull of a few pins.... I then made up a cable with quick connectors so I could set up camp in the shade and put the panels in the sun.....

 

[systemdelete]

Oh ok thank you! Watching the video as I type this

Simply, more panels= charges faster(or capable of charging with less than optimum sun)

More batteries= more reserve (you want enough reserve you aren’t over drawing from your batteries if the sun doesn’t come out for a day or two.

Between the two put a quality mppt charger to regulate the current and get the most power from your panels. I use a victron for that.

 

[Grendel]

I have a Ram 2500 Cummins that I want to add a solar setup to with a couple of batteries mounted in the bed to power everything when the truck isn't running. I have no idea where to start on this I would love something that I can use the truck's alternator to charge the batteries as I am driving as well. I want to permanently mount the solar panels to the roof of the cab its a crew cab so have plenty of space up there. Any brands to look for or stay away from? how many watts should I look for I see kits on amazon from 100 up to 4 or 600 seem like they just add more panels to the same kits so I am guessing I could add more over time. I have never messed with a system like this so I am completely clueless on all of it. as for what I am wanting it to do I want to be able to run the offroad light bars that are on the truck power a 55+ QT fridge, some fans and maybe a couple of plug in lights at the camp plus charge cell phones and tablets/GPS ect

thanks for any help
Doc

I’m working on doing the same thing. I just built a small solar charger with a panel and small battery to power fridge. I want to move to panels on roof with ability to charge from truck battery. Anyway check out Renogy.com. Under the learning section. They have a complete break down of how to run panels either parallel or in series. Whether you should get a PWM or MPPT controller. And the right size inverter.

 

[systemdelete]

I’m working on doing the same thing. I just built a small solar charger with a panel and small battery to power fridge. I want to move to panels on roof with ability to charge from truck battery. Anyway check out Renogy.com. Under the learning section. They have a complete break down of how to run panels either parallel or in series. Whether you should get a PWM or MPPT controller. And the right size inverter.

I don’t run inverters at all. It’s just too inefficient. I try and keep all my DC in its native form.

 

[BJ_OTR]

I have 2016 ram 2500 as well and have recently installed the setup you’re talking about. I’m running 2 100w panels taped to my roof with “RV tape”. Ran the lines down my 3rd brake lights and into the back seat. There I have a Renogy 40 a mppt. They also make one with a dc to dc charger (which I should’ve got) the dc to dc charges your batteries through your alternator while driving. Then I’m running the lines into the bed of my truck to 2 vmax 125 batteries. What you see in the pic are 2 optima blue tops. I bought those originally but realized later that they were only 55 amp hours each. With the new vmax I get 250 amp hours now. I haven’t run the system with the new batteries yet but with the optimas I was able to run my dometic CFX 95 and lights for 2 days without any problems. With the renogy app you are able to see the amount of energy coming in and going out. I noticed that the energy coming in was only greater by a small margin over the 2 days I used them. That’s why I upgraded my batteries. I may be getting a separate dc to dc charger now as well although I don’t think I’ll be needed it.
I hope this helps!

 

[RoarinRow]

I have 2016 ram 2500 as well and have recently installed the setup you’re talking about. I’m running 2 100w panels taped to my roof with “RV tape”. Ran the lines down my 3rd brake lights and into the back seat. There I have a Renogy 40 a mppt. They also make one with a dc to dc charger (which I should’ve got) the dc to dc charges your batteries through your alternator while driving. Then I’m running the lines into the bed of my truck to 2 vmax 125 batteries. What you see in the pic are 2 optima blue tops. I bought those originally but realized later that they were only 55 amp hours each. With the new vmax I get 250 amp hours now. I haven’t run the system with the new batteries yet but with the optimas I was able to run my dometic CFX 95 and lights for 2 days without any problems. With the renogy app you are able to see the amount of energy coming in and going out. I noticed that the energy coming in was only greater by a small margin over the 2 days I used them. That’s why I upgraded my batteries. I may be getting a separate dc to dc charger now as well although I don’t think I’ll be needed it.
I hope this helps!

Very cool! I like how that RV tape is holding the flex panels. Do you have a cover for your bed?

 

[BJ_OTR]

Very cool! I like how that RV tape is holding the flex panels. Do you have a cover for your bed?

I used to have a bal flip but I have a nuthouse tech 2 on the way. Should be here in the next week or so.

 

[RoarinRow]

I used to have a bal flip but I have a nuthouse tech 2 on the way. Should be here in the next week or so.

Ok cool just wondering how you protecting your stuff in the bed. Cool.

 

[Funmobile]

I am happy to share the system I have in/on my rig. I opted for Goal Zero equipment, which may or may not offer the best bang for the buck, however I like the integration and plug n play aspect of their products. I am using mine to power a 42 quart fridge and assorted accessories at camp, such as led awning lights, tent lights and headlamp/phone charging.

Yeti 400: Non lithium, purchased it used at an REI used gear sale. Works great and provides 400 watt hours of power. I really like that I can constantly see my power input, output and current storage/availability.

Second AGM battery: Purchased at Batteries Plus, compact AGM battery, connected to the Yeti, with a GZ (Goal Zero) cable, to up my storage from 400 watt hours, to 1,000 watt hours total.

Boulder 100 Solar Panel: Purchased new at REI, mounted with quick disconnect roof mounts, to allow me to angle it four best solar collection. The panel works great, however I find it to be especially sensitive to shade.

Cables: Purchased from Goal Zero, 4 to 1 input 8mm to Anderson, Anderson to 8mm, 30' 8mm extension, 12V to 8mm Yeti charger / cord, 2-3 generic USB extension cords, for power to the RTT and awning lights (purchased from Best Buy)

I ran a dedicated and fused 12g cable to the rear of the vehicle, which feeds a heavy duty triple 12v (cigarette lighter) power plug, as a feed supply for the Yeti and connected AGM battery. Additionally, the 4 to 1 cord allows my to charge from the alternator and solar panel at the same time. With both connected, I provide approximately 200 watts of input power to the system. Additionally, I can connect my two folding 20 watt panels to the system, via the two empty plugs on the 4/1 cable. While summer camping, the solar panels (no alternator input) have provided more than enough solar input to run the system continuously.