Reaver's DIY adventure box!

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reaver

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I'm currently talking to @dansun86 over at Talus Expedition Gear in Boise about what we can do to move the Axle back between 6-12 inches, and building a basic rack for the trailer.

I'll be taking the trailer over there after new years to get this process moving.

In the mean time, I've been working out the modifications to the Control panel in the trailer.

I'm going to be swapping out my 20A solar charge controller for a 30A with a remote screen (Thanks @K12 ). I'm also going to be adding a water gauge that works via flow, and a marine stereo with bluetooth.

Since the side box I'm currently using is only big enough for the 4 rocker switches and battery monitor I currently have, I'll be swapping that out, giving me more room.

I'll be adding 4 additional switches to the mix.

Screenshot from 2022-12-14 11-30-09.png
 

reaver

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Caldwell, ID, USA
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McGahuey
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I've been working on a way to make it easier to add/change electrical components, as well as cleaning up the electrical in the trailer.

I've come up with the following ideas:



This solves my shunt not being wired up correctly. I'm also swapping the solar charger I currently have with one that puts out 30A, as well as has a remote screen (can be seen above).

I decided I could get by with 6 switches, and only 6 relays. I still have 3 unused fuse slots in the fuse block, but I don't really forsee needing to change too much from this.

**EDIT**

Scratch that. I have two slots left. I forgot to show the power box for the rooftop tent on this diagram. That's another 15A fuse (just to be safe).
 
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KonzaLander

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This is a neat build. Nice work using the materials you know how to work with.

Then you throw in a wiring diagram. I love it when folks include wiring diagrams with their builds :sunglasses: What are the 4 round attributes at the top of the diagram? The image was down sampled too much to make the labels legible.

It looks like you have 6 light circuits. I added a lot of lighting options when I built my trailer too and I only use a couple. I definitely recognize everybody has different needs from their trailers, but I would suggest you really analyze how you will use lighting at camp. Could save you some work and expense that doesn't do anything for you.
 

reaver

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It's
This is a neat build. Nice work using the materials you know how to work with.

Then you throw in a wiring diagram. I love it when folks include wiring diagrams with their builds :sunglasses: What are the 4 round attributes at the top of the diagram? The image was down sampled too much to make the labels legible.

It looks like you have 6 light circuits. I added a lot of lighting options when I built my trailer too and I only use a couple. I definitely recognize everybody has different needs from their trailers, but I would suggest you really analyze how you will use lighting at camp. Could save you some work and expense that doesn't do anything for you.
The four circles in the top left corner are two multi usb ports, one 12v plug, and two 15A powerpole plugs (for modularity).

I'm wiring 6 switches because there are 6 Relays in my relay box. It's trivial to build the harness for the plugs. A single 8 pin DT plug takes care of everything.

Not all the circuits are for lights. I really only have the roof lights, and ambient lights underneath the trailer (my wife's request), and interior and kitchen lights. The interior and kitchen lights aren't on the relay box due to how little current they pull.

I also have heating pads for the water tank and propane tank, as neither of them work all that well in the cold.
 
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Jim SoG

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Maybe I missed it but 2 questions, what type main plug you using, I assume a 7 pin or? Also what water pump/sys did you use and are you satisfied?

I thought the original build was beautiful but this new redo looks like it will be a dream! Please post picks and when done (are we ever done? LOL) maybe a walk around video.

Thank you for sharing, it really helps the rest of us not so talented folks. Awesome job!

Jim
 

reaver

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Explorer I

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Caldwell, ID, USA
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Brian
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McGahuey
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GMRS WRMV941
Maybe I missed it but 2 questions, what type main plug you using, I assume a 7 pin or? Also what water pump/sys did you use and are you satisfied?

I thought the original build was beautiful but this new redo looks like it will be a dream! Please post picks and when done (are we ever done? LOL) maybe a walk around video.

Thank you for sharing, it really helps the rest of us not so talented folks. Awesome job!

Jim
Connecting to the tow vehicle is handled by two plugs. A standard 4 pin plug for the lights, and a kickass USA 3 pin anderson plug charges my battery in the trailer. The anderson plug pumps 20A into my battery while the vehicle is running.

Water is stored in an Ironman 4x4 america 10.6 gallon double Jerry can water tank (for now). It feeds an rv water pump, and then comes out at the faucet. I'm very happy with the function of the water setup. The faucet I bought is OK. I ended up having to silicone the threads of the faucet to keep it from leaking.
 
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reaver

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McGahuey
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Modification plans for the trailer this year are as follows:

1. Flip the axle.
2. Fit 31x10.5r15 tires under there
3. Replace doors with rv style baggage doors
4. Figure out a way to mount an awning to the trailer (more on this later)
5. Cut and install the rest of the trim (including drip guards for the doors)
6. Rework the electrical so the shunt is in the correct spot.

The shunt accurately reads how much power I'm using. I installed it in the wrong spot though, so it doesn't read when the battery is charging. I need to move it to fix this issue.
 
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reaver

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Nice! This looks like a fun little project. Looks solid.
It's sort of a never-ending project. Using it from Memorial day of last year, all the way through November, I definitely thought of some modifications/improvements that need to be done to make it work even better.

I will say, it would appear that my tail lights have been officially fixed on the truck and trailer side (not sure on the X yet. I may need a new 4-pin plug for the X for that).

Axle is getting flipped in March with the help of @dansun86 over at Talus Expedition Gear in Boise. @David H and I figured out a way to get an awning on the trailer without the need for a raised rack, so I'm going to try that before going the route of building a rack. I like the stability of the trailer with the tent being lower.

I also realized that I can store the spare tire for the trailer underneath the Xterra, since the X's spare tire is on the bumper.

I think for addition fuel storage on the trailer, I'll pick up a 12 gallon marine fuel tank, that I can siphon gas out of when we do the BDR. I'm going to build some crossbars that will sit in front of the tent, that I can use to mount spare gas, or whatever else I want to put up there.

Once we flip the axle, I can get some new tires for the trailer. Planning on moving to 31x10.5r15 if they'll fit.

Then I need to replace the rear door. I need to get measurements of the hole, and call up recpro and get that ordered. The front doors are working well enough.

I have my organization of the kitchen box sorted out (I think). I may add a "door" with another velcro panel that I can put more pouches on.

Also, over the christmas break, I wanted to see how much I can actually fit in the box. I pulled everything out, and decided to see if I could stack two plano totes....



Turns out I can stack two 68qt plano totes, and have two side by side. So I can fit 6 of them in there, and still have room for water, tables, chairs, shower tent, and other various items, in addition to the fridge up front

I'm also planning on switching to this tank as my primary water tank. Same capacity, but better packaging, which will allow me to fit an addition 10.6 gallons using my current tank, if I need to.

 

reaver

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Last weekend, I got some little projects done on the trailer.

I've changed from the double jerry style water tank, to an ironman 10.6Gal vertical tank, which frees up a lot of real estate in the trailer:



The reasoning behind this is that, for longer trips, I can still add the other 10 gallon tank giving us a total of 21 gallons.

I also rewired the shunt for the battery monitor, so that it now shows when the battery is charging, as well as discharging.

Lastly, the rear door was having trouble closing, so I trimmed about 1/8in off the bottom, and put new seals on it. Hopefully this helps, but I have another idea for the seals as well, but we'll see how the current ones work going forward.

My next project is replacing the hubs on the trailer, then getting new tires.

And finally, getting the awning moved from the X to the trailer.
 

reaver

Rank VI
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Explorer I

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Caldwell, ID, USA
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Brian
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McGahuey
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GMRS WRMV941
Since there's no room to put a fill port into the cap, I decided to but one of those little 12v sprayer pumps to use to fill the tank.

I bought this pump:

Portable 12v Car Pressure Washer 100W 160PSI Electric Washer Pump with 20 Feet PVC Hose fits for Car Home Garden Cleaning Pet Cleaning https://a.co/d/6hNeDu8

The pump claims it will use 8A and 100w, but I saw a max of 1.75A.

Regardless, the setup works surprisingly well, and is quite portable. Now I'm looking at 3 stage filtration systems.

Next up is building my modular dual tank setup.

Flipping the axle, larger tires, and rv doors won't be happening for a while.

I did add drip channels over the rear door, but haven't added them over the front doors yet.

I also have an idea for different door seals, but we'll see how the current ones do over memorial day.
 
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reaver

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After this weekends trip, I'll be pulling the hubs to find out what size the bearings are so I can order new hubs.

I also thought of a way to very simply put an awning on the trailer. I'll need to have some custom crossbars made out of square tube, but that should be fairly inexpensive. It'll take a shop less than an hour to make. Stay tuned on that one.
 
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reaver

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So when I installed the new water tank, I drilled a tiny hole in the cap to let it breathe when the pump was running. I wanted to see how much water splashed out while on the trail....

The answer is quite a bit.

I initially thought about getting a hose Barb, and installing that on the cap. But, due to how little room I have above the cap (it's JUST enough to get it off).... I had to get creative.

I bought a 3 pack of 3/8 hose Barb Check valves. Like these:


I drilled a hole in the cap, and used silicone to hold it in place.

It's currently curing right now, but this is what it looks like.



This should keep water from splashing out, while still allowing the tank to breathe.
 
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smritte

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Good job on the check valve. I had the same situation and basically did the same thing.
 

reaver

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Good job on the check valve. I had the same situation and basically did the same thing.
Funny story..... I went to put it on the tank after I finished working today..... And due to the clearance, I couldn't get the cap on. Looks like I'm going to have to pull the tank out and drill a hole to install the check valve into the tank itself. A bead of silicone around the edge of the hole should take care of any leaks. I may try the cap one more time, cutting the hose Barb off, before drilling a hole in the tank though.
 

reaver

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McGahuey
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Well, I managed to get the breather ports for the water tank caps sorted out. I feel like these will work very well for my needs.

I've also been working on the modular water tank setup. I got it all plumbed up last night, just need to add some water to the second tank, so I can test it.



If these check valves work as well as I think they will, I'll probably add one to the diesel heater cap as well.
 
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