Advocate I
We had a '19 RAM with the traditional suspension (we specifically ordered it that way, we didn't much care for the air on our '16 JGC and didn't use the different heights much, or at all) which we leveled and cleared 35"s nicely.
This is one of the only pics I have handy:
Those are 35x12.5-20"s. We added bigger mud flaps to help with rock chips, and at mid-turn (not full lock) in just the wrong scenario the tire would just barely touch a bulge in the inner part of the aftermarket flap (which installs over the stock flap, so it wouldn't have hit the factory piece). I'm not as sure how this fitment would work with the air suspension, when lowered. If you're just using it for ingress/egress and lower it with the tires pointed straight, I'm sure it'd be fine.
That truck was one of the most comfortable, best driving vehicles I've ever owned (and I've had BMW, Lexus, Land Rover, etc.) and the interior is still the best of the full-size trucks right now. As you can see in the pic above, the truck could do real work too (that's a 24' enclosed trailer... ~7,500lbs+ with two SxSs, tools, spares, etc.). We ordered it with the 3.90s knowing we'd put the 35"s on it, the locking rear diff, the larger fuel tank, etc. Our needs changed, and we replaced it with a Trackhawk - but honestly we both miss that truck some.
I still have my Duramax truck, so I have a good feel for 1500/2500. The 1500 just drives nicer, period (and I think my 2500 drives very nicely for a HD truck, so that's saying a lot). It's a better size for a daily driver too, but not really a *huge* difference. I have a WJ for most of my "Overlanding" and tow a ~2800lbs trailer. The WJ does okay, but just okay. I think the 5.7 Hemi 1500 RAM or a EcoDiesel 1500 would do much, much better. My Duramax does better-yet, but is massive over-kill for a ~2800lbs (I used to tow a 17k lbs 5th wheel with it).
-TJ
This is one of the only pics I have handy:
Those are 35x12.5-20"s. We added bigger mud flaps to help with rock chips, and at mid-turn (not full lock) in just the wrong scenario the tire would just barely touch a bulge in the inner part of the aftermarket flap (which installs over the stock flap, so it wouldn't have hit the factory piece). I'm not as sure how this fitment would work with the air suspension, when lowered. If you're just using it for ingress/egress and lower it with the tires pointed straight, I'm sure it'd be fine.
That truck was one of the most comfortable, best driving vehicles I've ever owned (and I've had BMW, Lexus, Land Rover, etc.) and the interior is still the best of the full-size trucks right now. As you can see in the pic above, the truck could do real work too (that's a 24' enclosed trailer... ~7,500lbs+ with two SxSs, tools, spares, etc.). We ordered it with the 3.90s knowing we'd put the 35"s on it, the locking rear diff, the larger fuel tank, etc. Our needs changed, and we replaced it with a Trackhawk - but honestly we both miss that truck some.
I still have my Duramax truck, so I have a good feel for 1500/2500. The 1500 just drives nicer, period (and I think my 2500 drives very nicely for a HD truck, so that's saying a lot). It's a better size for a daily driver too, but not really a *huge* difference. I have a WJ for most of my "Overlanding" and tow a ~2800lbs trailer. The WJ does okay, but just okay. I think the 5.7 Hemi 1500 RAM or a EcoDiesel 1500 would do much, much better. My Duramax does better-yet, but is massive over-kill for a ~2800lbs (I used to tow a 17k lbs 5th wheel with it).
-TJ
