Overlanding with "stock" 4X4

[Trail_pilot]

But why own a wrangler if mpg is a concern ? Not exactly the most comfortable ride out there especially towing a trailer .

MPG is never a main concern when owning a Jeep. but it is nice when you see an improvement LOL.

 

[Billiebob]

But why own a wrangler if mpg is a concern ? Not exactly the most comfortable ride out there especially towing a trailer .

depends on your definition of comfort
my definition includes peace of mind knowing it makes no compromizes
and I find it more comfortable to drive for 1K miles than the wifes CrossTrek

you never even know the trailer is back there
and I love driving doorless

 

[Smileyshaun]

depends on your definition of comfort
my definition includes peace of mind knowing it makes no compromizes
and I find it more comfortable to drive for 1K miles than the wifes CrossTrek

you never even know the trailer is back there
and I love driving doorless

Well yeah almost everything’s more comfortable than a cross trek

 

[Smileyshaun]

My Jeep has gotten a little out build to go back to stock, and a little increase in MPG would be great because I currently get about 8... I just finished rebuilding the suspension to make it more comfortable and plan on adding some heat/sound deadening to make things inside just a little bit nicer. The down side to the new suspension is that there is no room for the old exhaust I need to build one from scratch.... still working on that.
I do still use mine fore heavy trail rides and rock crawling with the guys about 5 weekends a year so it still checks all the boxes for my needs. I am working on the MPG a bit, I used to run the tires at a lower pressure and have bumped that up with a surprising increase just from that. ( used to run 25ish on the street and I and starting with 27 and have seen increases and may bump to 30 just to test that out too. I also need to do injectors , so I figure once I have the fuel actually getting into the engine, I might see an increase as well lol. Worst case I have a few jerry cant that tag along with me on some trips.

View attachment 144376

That’s one nice jeep , I miss having straight axles .

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

What’s this mpg you speak of ?? I thought the point of a 4x4 is smiles per gallon not miles per gallon . If I wanted mpg I would buy a car , what gets good mpg in 4 low ?

Ehhh my pocket book dictates my mph, which gives me the best mileage anyway. If I drive 55 instead of 65 it increases my mpg by about 3 mpg. I think I get better mileage now that my wife has passed. She weighed 140# and her suitcases weighed 500#. We had two SSI checks then so the extra weight was worth it.
BLESS HER SWEET HEART, she was worth every pound. Sighhhhh
LOL

 

[Trail_pilot]

That’s one nice jeep , I miss having straight axles .

Thank you. I have been throwing parts at it for close to 10 years lol. I think the only think original is the engine and trans.

 

[MOAK]

How about some discussion, or a YouTube, about overlanding in a stock 4X4? Seems most info is about mod rigs as if to say one can't go overlanding to adventure in a stock vehicle. It seems that the manufacturers of 4X4's wouldn't agree given that they have invested no small amount of effort in R&D and they outfit with suspensions, drives, AT tires (etc) and market specifically claiming that capability. What are the realities of overlanding in a stock 4X4? What are the capabilities and restrictions associated with "stock"? Why do you say that larger tires and lifts are "required"? Does adventure require investments into a modified rig? I'm an old sailor and we had the expression that "paradise looks the same regardless of the size of the cockpit".

“We” don’t generally say that a lift and larger tires are required. However, there are countless two track trails throughout the US with many in our national parks that a high clearance 4x4 vehicle with proper off road tires, is strongly recommended along with extraction gear. Can you get a stock rig through? Maybe, depends on the vehicle.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

I hope you didn't thing the video was about me or my rig. My Landy is a 2000 year model. I am somewhat close in looks to the video rig but not finished with a few things yet. I like my front bumper better than his. I do agree with what he has done to his rig and like you said unless a stock rig is setting next to me they wouldn't know it from stock. I didn't need new shocks and Luck8 didn't recommend changing them for their 2" spacer lift. My shocks are okay but I think I will change them just to make sure I dont break one. I will post a picture of my rig that was taken before the tire change, lift, and bumper addition. I need to take new pictures for an update.View attachment 144368View attachment 144368

I like WJ's myself and they seem easier to work on and modify. Do you have the inline 4.0 six cyl.

Yeah I thought that might not be you and your rig but it was obvious this was the same type of rig. Plus a good explanation of what he had done with it. Nice ride you've got there. Looks showroom condition.

I do have the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder and I find it a dream to work on. All the plugs, injectors, the fuel rail, oil fill, oil drain, and oil filter, starter, water pump...all easily within view and within reach. Same motor as the Wranglers of that time, but more space in the vehicle for inside cargo or passengers, and rooftop cargo standard. Solid front axle instead of the newer models IFS.

There's a lot to like about it. But right now it needs some work.

 

[MOAK]

But why own a wrangler if mpg is a concern ? Not exactly the most comfortable ride out there especially towing a trailer .

Interesting you should say that. I used to drag my 4x6 trailer behind our 04 Rubicon, cross country and I always found the “ride” and driving pleasure to be increased with the trailer. The side winds were less buffetting, curves at highway speeds were much better, and it tracked straight ahead a lot easier. My trailer is very well balanced with not any more than 175lbs of tongue weight. That well balanced extra axle and length actually added to the stability of the short wheel based TJ. The same phenomena occurs with our 80 series LC.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Yeah I thought that might not be you and your rig but it was obvious this was the same type of rig. Plus a good explanation of what he had done with it. Nice ride you've got there. Looks showroom condition.

I do have the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder and I find it a dream to work on. All the plugs, injectors, the fuel rail, oil fill, oil drain, and oil filter, starter, water pump...all easily within view and within reach. Same motor as the Wranglers of that time, but more space in the vehicle for inside cargo or passengers, and rooftop cargo standard. Solid front axle instead of the newer models IFS.

There's a lot to like about it. But right now it needs some work.

No, mine not showroom by any means. It has 102K on the speedo and has a little hail damage that I'm finally getting replaced with used stuff (Plastic trim all over it) little by little. If I ever blow my engine I'm going to strip out all the computer wiring and install a Ford 300 c.i. fuel injected Inline six. (Or possibly a 4 cyl. turbo charged diesel if I live that long).. They are all always an ongoing project when you have the older girls. Keep her rolling

 

[ThundahBeagle]

No, mine not showroom by any means. It has 102K on the speedo and has a little hail damage that I'm finally getting replaced with used stuff (Plastic trim all over it) little by little. If I ever blow my engine I'm going to strip out all the computer wiring and install a Ford 300 c.i. fuel injected Inline six. (Or possibly a 4 cyl. turbo charged diesel if I live that long).. They are all always an ongoing project when you have the older girls. Keep her rolling

One of the WJ's limitations has to do with a triangular, three point control arm at the rear. I havent even touched that yet. And being in ew England, every process that begins as "unbolt the..." here usually starts with "due to corrosion and rust, use your torch or sawzall to remove the bolt..." so I know what you mean by the constant fight on these older ones

 

[Trail_pilot]

One of the WJ's limitations has to do with a triangular, three point control arm at the rear. I havent even touched that yet. And being in ew England, every process that begins as "unbolt the..." here usually starts with "due to corrosion and rust, use your torch or sawzall to remove the bolt..." so I know what you mean by the constant fight on these older ones

I hear ya with the corrosion on everything .. whatever they put on the roads here will eat a car in a few years inf you don't keep it clean. The only real issue with the WJ rear tri-link is replacement joints is it not? unless you are lifting past the limitations of that setup...

 

[samuraj]

17mpg with 33/10.50R15s if I tried hard
22mpg with 7.50R16s without trying

With a trailer, 14mpg maintaining 60mph and passing on every mountain 3 lane
18mpg if I stayed under 55mph and never pulled out to pass

I was surprised, love these new tires
View attachment 144365

And they perform, handle better, ride smoother than any LTs I've had.

you again ??? come on man , stop this already
im sick of watching on this tires in every other tread !!!!!!!!!
they are look like shit anyway ..

 

[ThundahBeagle]

I hear ya with the corrosion on everything .. whatever they put on the roads here will eat a car in a few years inf you don't keep it clean. The only real issue with the WJ rear tri-link is replacement joints is it not? unless you are lifting past the limitations of that setup...

Right, that top single joint is really tough to get to. I've not gone there yet.

The lift on my WJ is 2 inches, so it's about at the limit where I dont have to modify control arms or sway bar links or pitman arm. But I'm pretty sure after 20 years, that rear center control arm joint is probably pretty squidgey.

 

[Trail_pilot]

Right, that top single joint is really tough to get to. I've not gone there yet.

The lift on my WJ is 2 inches, so it's about at the limit where I dont have to modify control arms or sway bar links or pitman arm. But I'm pretty sure after 20 years, that rear center control arm joint is probably pretty squidgey.

yep you're probably right. I am surprised it held out this long. Between what I put my Jeep through and the amount that I drive I am replacing suspension components roughly every 2 years. I have switch to Currie johnny joints not, we will see how long they last. I just did a long arm in the LJ and did triangulated upper arms. no room for my exhaust now ...... still working that one out ....

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

One of the WJ's limitations has to do with a triangular, three point control arm at the rear. I havent even touched that yet. And being in ew England, every process that begins as "unbolt the..." here usually starts with "due to corrosion and rust, use your torch or sawzall to remove the bolt..." so I know what you mean by the constant fight on these older ones

We're in the SW states, no rust and unbolting a 30 year old nut just takes a little wd40. When I work on my old 67 International I dont even have to do that. Anything will rust if if get wet and stay wet a lot. I've had a leak around my windshield that lets water in to the drivers side floor board. I recently pulled the floor matt back to remove a fender bolt and found a few little dime size hole in the floor but the area around them was clean. I took my dremal and worked it around the hole and found good petal. I primed the bare metal and let it go. If it leaks water again the hole will be a good drain.

The reason I was removing the fender bolt was because my son backed up and hit one of those poles they put near gas pumps and pushed the front fender in about 4-5 inches for about 18". I tried to pull it out but that old truck has some really thick sheet metal. A porta power might push it out if I had one. I am in the process of taking it off so I can beat out the dent from the back side. There was 15 bolts holding that fender on and all are out except one and I cant get to it up around the headlight that is smashed in. I've been driving it that way and the dang thing hasn't budged with only one bolt holding it on. I may have to cut a flap in the fender to get to the bolt and then weld it back. When I get the fender off it will take a hand sledge to beat that fender out. They want $300 for a used one plus $200 shipping so you know what i will do. I'm damn good with a hammer.

 

[Trail_pilot]

We're in the SW states, no rust and unbolting a 30 year old nut just takes a little wd40. When I work on my old 67 International I dont even have to do that. Anything will rust if if get wet and stay wet a lot. I've had a leak around my windshield that lets water in to the drivers side floor board. I recently pulled the floor matt back to remove a fender bolt and found a few little dime size hole in the floor but the area around them was clean. I took my dremal and worked it around the hole and found good petal. I primed the bare metal and let it go. If it leaks water again the hole will be a good drain.

The reason I was removing the fender bolt was because my son backed up and hit one of those poles they put near gas pumps and pushed the front fender in about 4-5 inches for about 18". I tried to pull it out but that old truck has some really thick sheet metal. A porta power might push it out if I had one. I am in the process of taking it off so I can beat out the dent from the back side. There was 15 bolts holding that fender on and all are out except one and I cant get to it up around the headlight that is smashed in. I've been driving it that way and the dang thing hasn't budged with only one bolt holding it on. I may have to cut a flap in the fender to get to the bolt and then weld it back. When I get the fender off it will take a hand sledge to beat that fender out. They want $300 for a used one plus $200 shipping so you know what i will do. I'm damn good with a hammer.

Damn man way to rub it in! Lol. I replaced my front fenders 3 rears ago and had to strip and repaint due to rust. Tailgate and windshield frame are rusted and need to be replaced and I just finished replacing 2 front floor panels. All rust that has popped up from next to nothing in the late 5 years.
I won't be winter driving this one anymore and it's only a 2006

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Damn man way to rub it in! Lol. I replaced my front fenders 3 rears ago and had to strip and repaint due to rust. Tailgate and windshield frame are rusted and need to be replaced and I just finished replacing 2 front floor panels. All rust that has popped up from next to nothing in the late 5 years.
I won't be winter driving this one anymore and it's only a 2006

You can do one of two things JAMES, You can buy patch panels for jeep floors (easier to cut out big sections) and flux weld in new panels, OR you can leave the holes so your passenger can stick his foot in the hole for extra stopping power. :-)

 

[Seanm26]

If you wanna rock, you keep it stock!

 

[Billiebob]

there are countless two track trails throughout the US with many in our national parks that a high clearance 4x4 vehicle

Any stock 4x4 pickup has all the clearance required. Some guys can even do it in a Crown Vic.