Offroad Trailer Questions regarding wheels, bolt pattern, etc
- Thread starter HudsonZRoamer
- Start date
Pathfinder I
From Timbren:
This will be a stud centric set up.
They don’t make a spacer that thick and you would have to have super long studs so what we are talking about is an adapter.
Using car wheels on trailers always create these hurdles.
Using a trailer wheel would allow you to bolt it straight on with no complications.
Simple, cheap, and stronger since it doesn’t lengthen the spindle adding torque to it.
Throw an adapter in the storage compartment in case you need to use the car spare on the trailer in an emergency.
This is becoming a huge PITA
This will be a stud centric set up.
They don’t make a spacer that thick and you would have to have super long studs so what we are talking about is an adapter.
Using car wheels on trailers always create these hurdles.
Using a trailer wheel would allow you to bolt it straight on with no complications.
Simple, cheap, and stronger since it doesn’t lengthen the spindle adding torque to it.
Throw an adapter in the storage compartment in case you need to use the car spare on the trailer in an emergency.
This is becoming a huge PITA
When we talked to them they said it wasnt a huge issue adding the extra length. My opinion of the design of the spindle are is that it is extremely simple, and extremely sturdy. In fact i have experience that the jounce spring will fail before the structural part will.
This happened around the borders of the Yukon and the Northwest Territories Canada. I can honestly say that it was NOT a warranty issue. I pushed to hard and wrecked my own equipment. Also it was not a catastrophic failure. More of a damaged part that deteriorated with more punishing use. This type of design still alowed me to drive with this damage, though slower and cock-eyed.
After, Timbren sent me not one, but two new springs under warranty!
The one thing that i cant factor in to your equation is the trailer brakes. I went brakeless for simplicity. That mite be the game changer for your issue?
P.S. Im stessing your issue with You! LOL!
Pathfinder I
what stud size did you go on those adapters? Did you specify a wheel centric/bore size when you ordered them?
Through adaptor Kings you can specify every option, you'd want the same studs size you currently have. The LR is 14*1.5 studs.
The center bore may be more tricky. They made mine square, not conical as the trailer hub needs. Your wheel center bore may also come into play as mine did on the 5200# hub. Trailer wheels seem to have a wide center bore whereas at least my wheels have a smaller center bore.
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The center bore may be more tricky. They made mine square, not conical as the trailer hub needs. Your wheel center bore may also come into play as mine did on the 5200# hub. Trailer wheels seem to have a wide center bore whereas at least my wheels have a smaller center bore.
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All i had to do was send Adapter Kings all my info! Sent them some picks of wat i had and 2 weeks later got wat i needed delivered.
Did you put them on a conical (trailer) or square (automotive) center bore? It was the same process for me with AKs. However, they didn't seem to understand conical trailer hub center bore, so I had a machinist do the work here.
We also needed to trim the bearing housing to fit inside of the center bore of the wheel. The only way for an adapter to fix that issue would be to offset the wheel so much that the bearing housing no longer interferes with the wheel. For me, that would be an inch or more additional offset. I opted to reduce the circumference of the bearing housing (2-3mm) to fit in the wheel for added strength and cleaner fit. Unfortunately, this also means if I have to replace a hub, it'll be a pain.
So. Many. Variables.
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We also needed to trim the bearing housing to fit inside of the center bore of the wheel. The only way for an adapter to fix that issue would be to offset the wheel so much that the bearing housing no longer interferes with the wheel. For me, that would be an inch or more additional offset. I opted to reduce the circumference of the bearing housing (2-3mm) to fit in the wheel for added strength and cleaner fit. Unfortunately, this also means if I have to replace a hub, it'll be a pain.
So. Many. Variables.
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Pathfinder I
Timbren told me center bore does not matter as these will be lug centric anyways.
Pathfinder I
Why would you want same size studs as the rig is it because the wheels will possibly not be able to fit another wheel stud? Timbren told me to get 1/2" studs I thought that was strange as it was different than my Subaru.
Yup. It won't matter, unless your automotive wheel won't fit over the hub. Then it matters.
I picked up the last two bolts yesterday and hope to assemble everything tonight. I'll post photos on my build thread.
Pathfinder I
I got a conical job on my adapters. My Timbrens came with a different stud size then my stock rig.
I won't rebuttal Timbren because there are too many variables to guess.
For me, it makes sense to have the same wheels, lugs, tires, all around. One size fits all.
Variables like lug size/shape or adapters add to the complexity. I had a 3rd back up adaptor made, just in case.
My philosophy:
If 5 14*1.5 lugs hold my LR wheels on, it'll work just fine attaching LR wheels to the trailer. :-D
If I lose a wheel or hardware, for whatever reason, I want 1 spare to fit anywhere on my set up. I also have two emergency spares that I know will fit my rig even if I have to leave the trailer, I can get to civilization.
Looks great too!
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Pathfinder I
Just found out the inner part of the hub diameter on my wheels is 56.1 mm . hoping that fits overr the hub on the Timbren setup.
For the Timbren 3500HD, they use the 14" hub 6*5.5.
They use the smaller 5 stud hubs on the 2000# set ups.
If you're not going with a brake hub, the bolt pattern should be the only issue.
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Pathfinder I
Yeah they use 5x114 (5x4.5) on 2k setup not worried about that. Will just have to adapt a 5x114 to 5x100 bolt pattern hoping the wheels fit their hubs
Pathfinder I
No brakes but to my knowledge this setup is brake ready as in it has the brackets
You either have a brake hub & or not. You can swap it later, but don't be confused. It's a rebuild, not an add on.
The key difference for you is that the center cone / bearing housing in a brake hub sticks out much further than a non brake hub. Looking at photos online, it also appears that the non brake hub has a conical center cone and sticks out a little, just not as much.
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The key difference for you is that the center cone / bearing housing in a brake hub sticks out much further than a non brake hub. Looking at photos online, it also appears that the non brake hub has a conical center cone and sticks out a little, just not as much.
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Pathfinder I
