Not a build as much as a resurrection?

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jim lee

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Welding skills.. Nothing to brag about. Steve and I can both do gas welding. But, we have friends here with skills!

Steve loves his adult beverages. Very little adult beverage and I'm just sleeping under the truck.

And I'm thinking about, start with the cab floor and work back. The cab floor and its corners seem to be the worst of the lot. Steve's come up with a "Lick n' Stick" plan to get my through this summer & the WABDR. Then we can pull it apart and really put some time into it. The rear section of the body is in better shape than I feared, so I have some hope.

-jim lee
 

jim lee

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Thursday, June 21, 2018 (( PART I ))

Bodywork, I’m still getting over the massive floor project I got myself into when trying to add seatbelts. Steve was instrumental in this project. In fact, I was mostly relegated to handing him tools and saying “Yes Sir.” There was the initial issue of the failed body mounts. Turns out the body was held to the frame by 3 bolts and the driver’s fender attached to the running board. Everything else was missing or failed. And the three bolts were quite loose..



I went out and bought the bolt cutters. I’m glad now that I bought them. I’m Really glad that I bought the bigger ones.



First of all, everything was a rust ball of mess and I didn’t want to spend a month coaxing out all the fasteners. The bolt cutters really sped things up.

Also, the design of the body of this machine uses a lot of threaded inserts. These are are like special shaped nuts designed to be premaritally attached to sheet metal. Its like having fixed nuts already in place wherever you need to attach something with a bolt. A really slick design feature.

Sadly, 75 years later, when all is rusty, the threads tend to seize up, the sheet metal rusts and the little suckers tear out. Now you have what is basically loose rusty rivets. Nearly impossible to get apart.

Snip! Problem solved.



While Steve was inside the truck snipping out the bolts that held the old floor in. I was outside snipping off the running boards.

The body mount at the base of the door pillar was covered up by the running boards. This meant that the running boards were pulled into this project as well.

Sigh..



Door pillar body mount bold coming out..



And there it is..

They built these by kinda’ grafting the Carryalls rear body to a pickup cab. The front, where the driver sits, actually has a pickup cab cab floor. This floor has four body mounts. All four had failed. The front two just the wood had rotted away and the metal was still in pretty good shape. The rear two, by the door pillars, had completely rotted away. Also much of the rear of the cab floor was rotten and beginning to fall apart.

Luckily the frame and its mounts looked ok.



The other side..

From the beginning I’d been sweating over what to do to fix this and not end up spending a couple years in the process.

Steve came up with and idea. There was a trough in the cab floor running between the two rotted rear body mounts. Instead of rebuilding all the missing metal at the ends of the trough, just drop a 3”x1/2” steel bar in the trough and run bolts through that into the original frame mounts. The wood floor running up from the rear of the truck would cover this up and “Sandwich everything together” as he explained it to me.



Finally some good news!

Remember I explained earlier about the threaded inserts? Well, the entire perimeter of the floor is ringed with these screws that go through the wood into threaded inserts along the body sides. Not only do we still have body sides, amazing in itself, Steve was able to get all but one of the screws out without damaging the threaded inserts. Yay!

I went through later with my handy tap and oil can to clean up all the threads so we can reuse them.



Still remembering the threaded inserts I was talking about? The floor was originally held down to a lot of threaded inserts that were attached to these cross members. Someone in the past cut ALL the screws off flush with these inserts on all the cross members and across the tailgate base. Oh thank you very much!

There was a bunch of new holes drilled with rusted bolts stuck in them from earlier “repairs”. My handy dandy bolt cutters made quick work of those.

This was pretty much the end of the demo. work. Time to start rebuilding.



For some reason there’s a picture of me buying some crab in here. I did feed some of it to Steve..

Whatever.



Steve straightening out bent cross members. None of the cross members were still attached to the body walls. None of them were attached to the frame. For some reason someone pulled out the mounting bolts and left them out.



Remember I said the plan was to span the rear cab body mount with a 3”x1/2”steel bar? Here’s the bar getting its mounting holes bored into it.

About this time I’d been thinking about the three chopped off screws at the base of the tailgate. It would be really nice to reuse those inserts if at all possible. But how to get the sawn-off screw ends out of them?

I crawled underneath the truck and had a look. Sure enough there was about a quarter of an inch of screw hanging out the bottom.

Using two snake oils and some cleanup work with a die grinder, I was able to run the screw ends out the bottom. Yay! I we can now have the correct screws showing at the tailgate.



Steve, using the same idea to pull the screw ends out of the inserts from the cross member that fell out. He was able to use the torch on this one. That seemed to work really well.

After you get the old rusty screw ends out its best to run a tap through the hole to clean up the threads. We did this to all of them.



As the body sits now. The lighter colored cross member is a new one I had made up to replace the 2x4 that was in there before.



Getting ready to weld the cross members back into the body. We found chunks of metal on the cross members that matched missing bits on the body wall. This we used to “key” the position of the cross member and also the width of the body at this point. I’d been worried about the width because I could pull the body wall out almost a foot at the corner. It was a bit frightening.

We used the first cross member to set the body width for the second cross member. The second one was the new one I had made for this.



And the welding begins.

Well actually..

I’m not the best welder, Steve used to be really good, in High-school. Steve wanted to do the welding, I didn’t argue.

He said that these new modern welding rods worked really well and the metal really flowed out nicely. Then I realized I’d handed him a brass rod not a steel one.

Whoops!

So most of the cross members got brazed in instead of welded in.



Clean up with the die grinder.



And more “welding”.



The design for this machine has the wood laying on top of the cab floor right behind the driver’s seat. The original design had a flimsy trim strip going around the front edge of the wood. In this new design, we beef up the trim strip to a custom sized angle made from steel. This locks the wood from the bed down to the cab floor as a structural member.

Here Steve is setting up to drill the mounting holes.

(( End part I ))
 
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jim lee

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(( PART II ))



Now at this point, while writing this, Julie just walked in and reminded me that I wanted to go see the WWII Bombers that were on display at our local airport. The Collins Foundation was in town for a couple days.

I had no idea what I was in for..

There were three Bombers at the airport. A B17, B24 and my all time favorite a B25. I’ve drug Julie to these kinds of things before but, having kids in tow, she never actually got to climb through one. So today we toured the big 4 engined B17 & B24 bombers. You could peek in the B25, but that was about all.

I would have loved to tour the B25 but, oh well..

Then I overheard someone talking about getting a flight lesson in the B25? “Huh?” I asked the guy, he said “Talk to that guy over here.. “

“Ah, Sir? You’re offering flight lessons in the B25 Bomber?”

“Yeah, 30 minute flight. You’re at the controls. We can fly around the islands.”

“When can we do this?”

“Right now if you want.”

Now let it be known, I’m actually terrified of even the thought of going up in and old aircraft like this. Engine fires, broken control wires, corroded wing spars, overstressed metal.. Good lord! Never would I fly in a B24, a B17? I think I’d need a stiff drink. But to try my hand at flying a B25? Still scary..

“I’m in!”

They started prepping the plane, we had to deal with the money thing. About the time I was walking out to the plane they told us, “You can take Julie along”.

“Really? C’mon Julie!” She was a bit reluctant but with some arm twisting.. She came too.



I was so excited I thought I’d wet myself! Rolling down the runway the pilot told me “Start pulling back on the control yoke. Get the nose up a little and it’ll fly off when its ready.” And from then ‘till we dropped the wheels to land, I flew the plane. WHAT A RUSH!

Funny though, I’ve dreamt about this for years. But Julie, who had no idea what she was getting into, had the time of her life! Its nearly 10PM and she’s STILL going on about it! After we got airborne they had her crawl up and ride in the nose of the plane. She had an absolute BLAST! Here is a link to her Facebook Video.

Here’s Franklin’s post with another video clip.



A shot Julie took from the bombarder's compartment. Complete with 50 Caliber machine gun.

I’m pretty sure we were over Camino island at the time.



Julie’s new facebook profile picture. I tell ‘ya. The girl is in love!



And finally proof we survived. I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face for hours!

Face your fears and reap the rewards! What a day!

Another funny thing; Our pilot Ty, is another WC53 owner! What a kick! After the flight he came out and checked out Franklin.





Ok, back to the blog..



Steve, starting to make the template for the floor.

At this point things have changed a bit in our plan. Getting planks for building this turned out to be harder than we thought. Then I decided plywood would be fine. Seeing that the wood is becoming a structural part of all this, I’d like it to be one monolithic piece. I ordered a 5‘x10’ sheet of 3/4” plywood.



Meanwhile I’m working on replacing all the body mount rubber bits. Seeing that almost nothing is holding the body to the frame, I’d just jack the body up and carefully slip in the rubber pads.

This is one of the rear corners. The taillight is a dead giveaway. The rear corners were two of the three that actually had bolts in them. Not doing a lot, but there.



Jacking up the body to slip in more rubber pads. This it taken laying on the ground under the truck looking up past the frame rail.



After the floor template was complete, Steve had me paint the perimeter with Hammerite to stop the rust under the wood. I wonder if this is just more snake oil, but I complied.



I’ve also been giving the plywood a coat of varnish. Really low quality sheet I might add. I didn’t see it until I unwrapped it at home. But time is rolling on, so it’ll have to do.



Ok, steel beam is in, body mounts at least have their pads, cross members are welded back in, Hammerite is painted on..



Steve, laying out the template on the plywood sheet.



Cutting begins.



And pretty quickly its finished. Notice the fender cutout in the left side but none on the right side? We found that there was no way we could get the full sheet in or out of the truck. So in the end we had to chop off the rear right corner. But the wood will still give the truck plenty of strength.



First test fit. I went under the truck with a pencil and marked where all the known holes were. And Steve, better more accurate craftsman than I, drilled them all out.



Once all the holes were at least pilot drilled, if not fully drilled. I spent a day getting as much of the screws and bolts aligned and installed as possible.



Painting the forward steel angle.



Artsy shot of test fitting the steel angle.

Everything your seeing now is just test fitting. Steve and I have not yet ironed out how the steel beam cab mounting is going to be completed. We go around and around about how it should be done. It spans under the plywood between the two bolt heads just aft of the steel angle.

(( End Part II ))
 
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jim lee

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(( PART III ))


You are laying under the truck looking up at the fuel filler pipe. Notice the left (rear) end mounting hole comes nowhere near the hole in the body? This has been an issue since I got this machine. Seeing that much of this was missing before, I just ignored it and left it somewhat floppy.

Time to do something about it.



Not wanting to make this into yet a bigger project, I tried to heat it up and just bend the tab over some. It was working, sort of. But really it needed.. And of course I broke it.

Why do I even try? I can never get a quick fix to work.



Cleaning up the mess.



All cleaned and ready to go. There was brass, copper and solder on there.



Starting my solder job.



About the fourth re-solder/adjustment. Its almost embarrassing how well this cleaned up in the end, knowing how many horrible things I did to it, trying to get it to fit properly.



Final cleanup and sand blasting.



Paint.



Installed. Finally its where it should be and bolted in correctly.



Using what I learned watching Steve, I was able to make and install the filler piece for the cut off corner.

NOTE: The grain matches up perfectly. This was a complete accident. I cut this out of whatever I found on the garage floor. Installed it then noticed.



See that nut? I couldn’t get my fingers in there to get it started. So, I used..



Magnet on spatula handle.

Even so it wan’t easy! When imagining this approach, I never thought about the fact that I was going to try to shove a magnet on a stick into a steel lined cavern. It tries to stick to everything!



Finally, all the bolts, screws and hardware is test fitted.



Five minutes later, Steve shows up. Time to take it all apart and deal with the design of the steel bar.

I’d spent a bunch of time bolting things together thinking about how I wanted to do it. Julie caught Steve and I discussing it.

I know it looks staged, I swear it wasn’t.



Final plan. Cut out the rotted ends. Measure the height difference between the original end depth and the depth of the mid channel where the bar will lay. Add wood shims of that height on top of rubber pads to the tops of the frame mounts. Next is the bar itself with holes drilled through it for the seat belt mounting bolts. Remember this was all about seat belts? Measure the depth of the channel minus the height of the bar. Make four blocks of that height with 1/2” holes for seatbelt mounting bolts. Drop those in place and reinstall the floor. This, in theory, locks the cab back to the original level that it was from the factory. With the the combination of the steel angle and seatbelt bolts sandwiching everything together.



Seatbelts..



Fender washers holding all the weakened metal together.



Brand new running board.



All done!! Well nearly. Still need to add the gas gauge sender cover. And I should pick up my jacket before snapping the picture as well..



And install that fan belt..


-jim lee
 
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Smileyshaun

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amazing work man I bet it's a 1000x quieter and probably will ride a little better not having the body just floating around on its own
 

jim lee

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It is a lot nicer in that respect. I still have an issue with something in the driveline though. Sounds like a U-Joint failing and I can hear it thump thump thump down as I pull in to stop. I'm sitting at home today waiting for the FedEx truck to bring my shiny new driveshaft. I'm thinking this should fix the issue because I can feel that the slip joint is shot on the one I have.

Oh but the seatbelts -really- helped with the ride. Not shooting into the ceiling on every little bump is a HUGE improvement!

You still thinking about joining us on the WABDR this July?

-jim lee
 

HappyOurOverlanding

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(( PART III ))


You are laying under the truck looking up at the fuel filler pipe. Notice the left (rear) end mounting hole comes nowhere near the hole in the body? This has been an issue since I got this machine. Seeing that much of this was missing before, I just ignored it and left it somewhat floppy.

Time to do something about it.



Not wanting to make this into yet a bigger project, I tried to heat it up and just bend the tab over some. It was working, sort of. But really it needed.. And of course I broke it.

Why do I even try? I can never get a quick fix to work.



Cleaning up the mess.



All cleaned and ready to go. There was brass, copper and solder on there.



Starting my solder job.



About the fourth re-solder/adjustment. Its almost embarrassing how well this cleaned up in the end, knowing how many horrible things I did to it, trying to get it to fit properly.



Final cleanup and sand blasting.



Paint.



Installed. Finally its where it should be and bolted in correctly.



Using what I learned watching Steve, I was able to make and install the filler piece for the cut off corner.

NOTE: The grain matches up perfectly. This was a complete accident. I cut this out of whatever I found on the garage floor. Installed it then noticed.



See that nut? I couldn’t get my fingers in there to get it started. So, I used..



Magnet on spatula handle.

Even so it wan’t easy! When imagining this approach, I never thought about the fact that I was going to try to shove a magnet on a stick into a steel lined cavern. It tries to stick to everything!



Finally, all the bolts, screws and hardware is test fitted.



Five minutes later, Steve shows up. Time to take it all apart and deal with the design of the steel bar.

I’d spent a bunch of time bolting things together thinking about how I wanted to do it. Julie caught Steve and I discussing it.

I know it looks staged, I swear it wasn’t.



Final plan. Cut out the rotted ends. Measure the height difference between the original end depth and the depth of the mid channel where the bar will lay. Add wood shims of that height on top of rubber pads to the tops of the frame mounts. Next is the bar itself with holes drilled through it for the seat belt mounting bolts. Remember this was all about seat belts? Measure the depth of the channel minus the height of the bar. Make four blocks of that height with 1/2” holes for seatbelt mounting bolts. Drop those in place and reinstall the floor. This, in theory, locks the cab back to the original level that it was from the factory. With the the combination of the steel angle and seatbelt bolts sandwiching everything together.



Seatbelts..



Fender washers holding all the weakened metal together.



Brand new running board.



All done!! Well nearly. Still need to add the gas gauge sender cover. And I should pick up my jacket before snapping the picture as well..



And install that fan belt..


-jim lee
Nicely done. What are you going to seal the wood with?

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jim lee

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We sealed the wood with about three or four coats of marine varnish. Steve spent the whole time complaining that he was doing a horrible job and that as soon as possible we should redo everything. I got really good at saying "Its fine, don't worry about it. It's just a truck."

-jim lee
 
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HappyOurOverlanding

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We sealed the wood with about three or four coats of marine varnish. Steve spent the whole time complaining that he was doing a horrible job and that as soon as possible we should redo everything. I got really good at saying "Its fine, don't worry about it. It's just a truck."

-jim lee
I wish my wife would say that when I build her things. It's usually...'your going to fix that, right!?! [emoji12]

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jim lee

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A quick update to the blog,

FIRST OVERLANDING!



Now that the body is somewhat welded back together and bolted to the frame, it’s getting to that time where we needed to actually take this beast off-road and see how to make it go. But first there were a couple things that needed attention before any real testing could begin.



First order of business was to replace the driveshaft, again. For some reason, the driveshaft I had built out of what was supposed to be a NOS one, wore out. There is a slip joint that you can see at the near end. This joint wore out. When that happens the driveshaft wobbles and goes out of balance.

Vintage Power Wagon had a NOS one in stock for this machine. So I ordered it with new U-Joints installed. When it finally arrived, the U-joints were almost an eighth of an inch too wide. I was furious! All that work on the body and floor. Now I couldn’t drive the truck because my driveshaft was shot and they sent the wrong one!

Wondering if there were different sizes of these things, I posted online about how it didn’t fit. One guy asked if I’d tried squeezing the cups in with a C-clamp. Another said that no.. They are all the same size.. I went to bed.

Next morning I measured the two driveshafts and.. They were the same. Only the cups on the u-joints were different? So I put a big ‘ol C-clamp on them and gave it a good squeeze. Now the cups were the same. Sigh.. I’ve been stupid again. The new driveshaft popped right in. Live and learn. I went back and posted an apology to VPN. Yes, it was the right driveshaft. And yes, you need to use a C-clamp on them.



Next is working on smoothing out the engine. It just runs rough. My biggest fear is that its actually out of balance, but I’m going to cover all my bases first. I know one cylinder is running low on compression compared to the rest, I’ve tested it and it shows that its a valve issue.

Lets adjust the valves.

How do we do that? From above you can’t even see where the valves live. I asked online and was told to remove the inner fender plate and there they’d be. See above picture? Under the exhaust manifold you can see the two cover plates for the valve galley.

The military manual tells you to do this adjustment with the motor hot & running. Really? That sounds just awful. I don’t want to be monkeying around in a hot and running engine!

Vaughn posted to do it cold with the engine off. Just add .002” to the gap. That sounded much better! So I ended up doing it that way. Even so, it was tough kneeling over the brake drum reaching in there, pilling the fan around to line up the different valves etc. Like a palates workout.



Next morning it was time to button up everything and, of course, I’d overlooked the entire gasket thing. Fine. I was in a hurry, so I got some gasket material and made my own. The cork ones looked ok to me, so I reused them. Washed ‘em down with gasoline and a little gasket sealer.. Good to go!

They actually all sealed up great. Not a leak to be had. And my low compression cylinder came up by 10 lbs.

Everything came apart without a hitch. Then I was able to get everything reassembled without breaking anything! I was so happy I took a wrench and busted off the stud that locks down the carburetor heat winter/summer valve.



And we were off! Julie picked us a destination to shoot for. Some hot springs up above Baker lake.

We were Overlanding!



And Overlanding means dirt roads!

See those innocent looking puddles?



Just to give an idea what the ride is like in this machine.

This is actually what the camera took as a picture as we hit one of the pot holes.

This thing hits so hard, it distorts digital pictures!

Its like driving through a minefield!



We did see some cool stuff along the way though



Look, the bridge has been mined!

I wonder why the railing is all broken up? I hope it isn’t structural.



Its really pretty up there.



Crossing the busted up bridge.

We did make it to the hot springs. There was some grumpy people leaving. An older gentleman was in the Hot spring with about three really uncomfortable looking young girls. No one looked like they would be very happy about pictures, so there are none to show.



Another artsy picture. Cell phones just don’t do these justice.



Miga Korean BBQ!

Its so bizarre. Out here in the sticks, is this fabulous Korean restaurant.

One of my favorites. This is maybe the fourth time We’ve eaten here? When we’re out by Baker lake, we typically try to hit this place.

So the ride is still really rough! But the seatbelts made a HUGE difference. Being strapped in while the truck goes flying all over is WAY better than flying around inside at the same time. We were hitting so hard that rust was literally raining off the ceiling on us. Next I’d like to try airing down the tires. But in order to do this, we’ll need a way to air them up again. I guess there is some engineering coming in the future.

Engine and driveline? This is really odd. Every time you start off in the truck, after its sat for awhile, its completely different. Sometimes the engine seems smooth but the driveline is loud and rough, sometimes the engine seems out of balance, but the driveline is smooth and quiet. Sometimes, when everything is hot, it sounds like the driveline is falling apart. Sometimes, especially when the oil is cold, everything is smooth and quiet.


Go figure.

-jim lee
 

Smileyshaun

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the only way your going to get a big improvement in ride is to get rid of some leafs and replace the spring bushings . it's more time consuming then anything you just need some spring center bolts( can be found at some hardware stores ) and most likely a set of u bolts . have had to build a lot of custom spring packs over the years and the difference in ride is amazing . only down side is you may loose a inch of lift depending on how big the spring pack is . we did it on a friend's rig that was a 2 ton truck but thankfully it was more of a street cruiser so the 4" of lowering was very needed lol
 

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I think you're right about the springs. That's too involved this late in the game.

But everything changed once again..

Last night I drained the rear 3rd member and this AM I put in fresh oil. Fired the machine up for a test drive, and it would barely run. When it was running, there was some odd valve clatter. Compresson test showed 0-psi for cylinders 1 & 2.

At the least it seems I have a blown head gasket. Worst case.. We'll, I'll open up the engine and check before talking about worst case stuff.

-jim lee
 

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My money is on a head gasket. Nothing else would cause two cylinders to go to zero at the same time. While you have the head off, why not grind the valves or at least lap them. On an older vehicle it can make quite a difference. It's not a bad time to put some valve seals on as well. Don't forget to check that the head is not warped.

Squirt some ATF on the top of the cylinders and let the rings soak for a while. It may drastically help your compression. I recommend running a can of BG44k through the gas every so often with those old vehicles.

Remember the new oils do not have ZDDP any more and cams and lifters may suffer. Either add some ZDDP or run Diesel Rotella oil, since it still has it.

That engine was designed to run on leaded fuel. The loss of the lead also means a loss of top end lubrication. Newer engines have compensated for that but on older engines you might do well to add an ounce or two of ATF to each tank. It provides top end lubrication as well as a ton of detergents to keep things clean.

I love rehabilitating old vehicles and have enjoyed following your progress.
 
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jim lee

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Thanks for the tips guys!

It was a blown head gasket. I wonder why it blew when I fired it up the next morning? Why not on the way? Mysteries mysteries..

I've been talking to the online powerwagon boys and getting a lot of info on why these things blow their head gaskets. This gasket was only about 6-8 months old so I was wondering what I did wrong. Now I have a list of things to do differently this time around.

As for the valve clatter, I found the #1 & #2 exhaust valves were a tad loose. Maybe a result of head-gasket bits bashing through them?

Anyway, I just got a call from the parts house, my gasket set is here. So I'm off to get parts and re-assmeble.

Wish me luck!

-jim lee
 
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Smileyshaun

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Take the head in and make sure it's not warped at all that would cause you to blow head gaskets pretty quick. also tread chase all your head bolt holes to make sure your getting proper torque readings when bolting it down