Untitled by
Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by
Marn, on Flickr
Untitled by
Marn, on Flickr
somebody on facebook asked for a build and parts list, so here's the rundown:
Okay, so there are a lot more sturdy or roomy ways to do this project, but I'm poor and cheap and had limited space on the front of my trailer, and I specifically wanted the thing to be removable.
Parts list:
-(1) 24-31 series battery box. I run a 24 series battery, and knew a 31 series box would give me a bit of extra room for my controls n such. This is the one I bought:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/NOCO-Snap-Top-HM318BK-Group-24-31-Battery-Box-for-Automotive-Marine-and-RV-Batteries/16781380
-(1) of these power panel things. This one on amazon has like 48 different configurations and colors. Based on dimensions i chose the square one with 4 ports. I determined I would use the switch to power up the panel, not power an accessory. You can find larger and smaller options all on this one product page:
-(1) 6 way fuse block with ground. Since this is a portable box, its not grounded to the trailer, so I wanted it all self contained. This little box comes with all the labels you'd want, and it fit nicely. The fit is tight, you could do a 10 way panel, but you'd havew to mount it sideways or something. I plan to just tape mine in place where you see it.
-(a bunch of) wire and crimp connectors. I used 12 AWG wire from the battery to the panel fuse panel, for both positive and negative connections. On the accessory panel, i just used small stuff, 16 gauge I think.
-(a bunch of) fuses in various amperage's for your accessory needs.
Building it:
1. Measure your crap. I had to cut the tabs under the handle where i mounted the panel. As you can see, i scratched the hell out of it with my saw.
2. Drill some holes. lay the panel out and mark the holes you need. I think I used a 1 1/4" hole saw but dont quote me. Do your due diligence and measure.
3. Mount up! Mount the panel. I used the screws it came with.
4. Wire that bad bitch. If you have a basic knowledge of wiiring this should take you all of half an hour. I decided to make it so the switch powered up the panel and the accessory ports.
- Run a wire from positive terminal to positive terminal on fuse block. run negative battery terminal to negative terminal on fuse block.
- Run from a wire from both a ground location and a fused location on the fuse block, to the switch on the panel. This will leave you with 1 open terminal on the switch.
- Make a lil daisy chain of connectors, you'll need 3 more spade connectors. . Run this from the remaining terminal on the battery, to the positive terminal on each accessory port and the volt meter.
- Do the same thing for the negative. Unlike the positive, you'll want to start this daisy chain on the wire that comes from the negative on the fuse block, because there is only 1 negative terminal on the switch.
5. Pretty much done. Tuck it all in there and call it a day.
6. I'm going to put some screws through the box into the little plastic divider that keeps the battery off to one side, because I don't trust that it wont pop out.
7. I picked up a quality lashing strap to use to hold this thing to the trailer frame i made. The ones that come with the battery box are janky. This one has a 500lbs working load, and its just a simple cam buckle, so its easy to remove when you want to.
8. As mentioned, i'm going to wire in some weather proof connectors, as such, to plug in the lights from the trailer. these will always be hot when they are plugged in to the battery box, which is fine, it will mean i don't have to actually turn the box on in order to power them, as they should have no draw when turned off.
So, if you want to run something heavy duty like an air compressor, just pop the top and connect straight to the terminals. If you needed to jump start your truck, do the same thing. When its time to charge it, do the same thing. I may eventually run a solar trickle charger, but for my trips, this will last more than long enough. This battery has something like 56 amp hours, or a 135 minute reserve capacity, so, for running a few LED's and charging phones, I think it'll be fine. I've used this battery in my pop up camper and never had an issue running the lights and the water pump over several day trips.
NOTE: this thing is in no way dust proof, and is not water proof. It's absolutely fine as far as being weather proof, but my suggestion is to use good quality heat shrink fittings, and just keep it clean. It's gonsta get FULL of dust if you're wheelin'. Thats fine and doesnt bother me, but beware.
Anyway.