looking for roof rack ( platform) material suggestions

[Trail_pilot]

I am looking to build a roof platform for at least one of my vehicles, but maybe both. I have been thinking about how heavy the material needs to be to hold what I would likely put up on the roof, which usually isn't a whole lot ( a couple of totes full of camping gear, maybe fire wood, a couple of small kayaks....).
I was thinking about a 3x1x0.125 or 2x1x0.125 to make an outer ring and then maybe 1x1x0.100 for the cross rails to save weight but I could go heavier on any of it.
I am not an engineer by any means, but I can weld. My understanding is that a 1x1x0.125 at a length of 4' would have a deflection of approximately 1" (roughly) with a 1000lb load, which I would never have that much weight up top. I figure I would likely put around 200lbs up top at most, however I want to build this to be capable of a 500lb load to be on the safe side.
I have access to nearly any size of material but I can only weld steel, and would like to keep the cost and weight as low as possible.
Any ideas or suggestions would be great!
Thank you

 

[bgenlvtex]

I'm just going to say that roof baskets are so damn cheap that I don't think I'd put the effort in. Considering that they are aluminum they will be lighter than virtually anything you can build out of steel.

I'm very much a DIY guy, but there is a point of diminishing returns.

 

[Trail_pilot]

I'm just going to say that roof baskets are so damn cheap that I don't think I'd put the effort in. Considering that they are aluminum they will be lighter than virtually anything you can build out of steel.

I'm very much a DIY guy, but there is a point of diminishing returns.

most roof baskets aren't aluminum, and most don't fit my specific size needs for vehicle dimensions. If I build one fore my LJ I need to build a rack to go with it that works with all of the body modifications, and if I build one fore the compass I would like it to be a little narrower and a little longer than most racks/baskets on the market.
I have a roof basket but it is a little on the small side and if I pile stuff in it it gets tall and I would like to even the weight out a bit.

 

[genocache]

I made mine out of super strut;

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Roof rack gets updated

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[Trail_pilot]

I have access to basically any size or type of HREW or DOM because of my job, so I was thinking I would try to weld something together. I am leaning towards square/rectangular tubing because I don't have a tube bender, but I can notch, bend and weld square/rectangular tube. This should also lend to a fairly clean and not "home made" look hopefully.

 

[smritte]

When I built my racks, I used 1"square. I would have loved to use tube but didn't have a bender either at the time. The nice thing about 1" is all my tie down hooks fit around it.

I know you wanted to keep the cost down but, I now use 60/40. I love the way it looks and is very modular.

 

[Trail_pilot]

When I built my racks, I used 1"square. I would have loved to use tube but didn't have a bender either at the time. The nice thing about 1" is all my tie down hooks fit around it.

I know you wanted to keep the cost down but, I now use 60/40. I love the way it looks and is very modular.

what wall thickness was the 1" square that you used before? I am trying to figure out what material to use in hopes that it wont weigh a ton lol.

 

[smritte]

ugh...1/8 maybe? My bottom slats would be 3" apart and risers every 4 inch. I didn't worry about strength. I don't use them for much weight. Worse one was a carrier on the back of my jeep holding a big ice chest.
Been awhile and I'm remembering from a few years back to the last one. Since I went to the 60/40 I now prefer that.

 

[Jedi]

I have, in the past, used the "cheaper" solution of roof top baskets ($150 from Amazon) and I found that a) things never fit just right causing lots of wasted space; b) it only lasted 2 seasons of PNW weather; c) tie down points were never where I needed them and cargo would shift because of that.

Next I evaluated utilizing steel strut, including doing a complete design for the most efficient use of space, pricing out product, and purchasing some initial materials. As I continued to work with it, I realized a couple of things, a) strut is heavy; b) strut is not simple to cut; c) not all paints adhere well to the strut material, which becomes a problem when it is continually exposed to the elements.

Finally I settled on utilizing 80/20 to build it. This allowed me to reduce the weight, easily address corrosion issues, and maintain easy customization/reconfiguration of storage. The greatest downside I found in working with 80/20 is the cost is a great deal higher.

I'll try to snap some pics of it, but here is my final design:

 

[Trail_pilot]

ugh...1/8 maybe? My bottom slats would be 3" apart and risers every 4 inch. I didn't worry about strength. I don't use them for much weight. Worse one was a carrier on the back of my jeep holding a big ice chest.
Been awhile and I'm remembering from a few years back to the last one. Since I went to the 60/40 I now prefer that.

Thank you. I was actually considering roughly 1/8" wall material. I likely wont have too much on top either as the Jeep is tall and top heavy as it is, but I would like to throw my kayaks up top and maybe some other camping gear.

 

[genocache]

I have, in the past, used the "cheaper" solution of roof top baskets ($150 from Amazon) and I found that a) things never fit just right causing lots of wasted space; b) it only lasted 2 seasons of PNW weather; c) tie down points were never where I needed them and cargo would shift because of that.

Next I evaluated utilizing steel strut, including doing a complete design for the most efficient use of space, pricing out product, and purchasing some initial materials. As I continued to work with it, I realized a couple of things, a) strut is heavy; b) strut is not simple to cut; c) not all paints adhere well to the strut material, which becomes a problem when it is continually exposed to the elements.

Finally I settled on utilizing 80/20 to build it. This allowed me to reduce the weight, easily address corrosion issues, and maintain easy customization/reconfiguration of storage. The greatest downside I found in working with 80/20 is the cost is a great deal higher.

I'll try to snap some pics of it, but here is my final design:
View attachment 191686

Just curious what you are going to use for tiedowns and how you will keep them from sliding? I guess the gray rectangles are cases of some sort? What vehicle will this go on?

And as an aside the Super Strut is electroplated galvy. I don't know how that holds up in the PNW.

 

[Trail_pilot]

I have, in the past, used the "cheaper" solution of roof top baskets ($150 from Amazon) and I found that a) things never fit just right causing lots of wasted space; b) it only lasted 2 seasons of PNW weather; c) tie down points were never where I needed them and cargo would shift because of that.

Next I evaluated utilizing steel strut, including doing a complete design for the most efficient use of space, pricing out product, and purchasing some initial materials. As I continued to work with it, I realized a couple of things, a) strut is heavy; b) strut is not simple to cut; c) not all paints adhere well to the strut material, which becomes a problem when it is continually exposed to the elements.

Finally I settled on utilizing 80/20 to build it. This allowed me to reduce the weight, easily address corrosion issues, and maintain easy customization/reconfiguration of storage. The greatest downside I found in working with 80/20 is the cost is a great deal higher.

I'll try to snap some pics of it, but here is my final design:

I love the overall design. It's very similar to what is in my head. I am trying to keep costs as low as possible and I will need to build more than just the platform for my Jeep anyways so I figured I would weld something up as the same time. I will be looking into building something similar for one of our other vehicles as well that would be more of a bolt on because it actually has roof mounting points already. I work in a steel warehouse so I have access to all types of steel but cost is a huge factor for me.

 

[JDGreens]

I'm making my roof rack out of 1"x2" and 1"×1" steel, and bought Jcr roof rails mounting brackets, it is 90% finished. Just have to finish cleaning up a few little things and paint the mounting hardware. I am making it as strong (just incase I ever want a RTT) yet light as possible using steel. It's approximately 75 pounds. It's design is basic (platform) I'll try to share a photo when it's finished (should be next weekend). I really just want it to hold the lighter gear I pack. Ie; cloths and bedding plus a awning of some sorts.

We also take our kayaks out once in a while so I built it to incorporate my Yakima roof rack/kayak system. They fit over the top of the platform. The nice thing about Xjs is roof rails are easy to mount to.

 

[Trail_pilot]

I'm making my roof rack out of 1"x2" and 1"×1" steel, and bought Jcr roof rails mounting brackets, it is 90% finished. Just have to finish cleaning up a few little things and paint the mounting hardware. I am making it as strong (just incase I ever want a RTT) yet light as possible using steel. It's approximately 75 pounds. It's design is basic (platform) I'll try to share a photo when it's finished (should be next weekend). I really just want it to hold the lighter gear I pack. Ie; cloths and bedding plus a awning of some sorts.

We also take our kayaks out once in a while so I built it to incorporate my Yakima roof rack/kayak system. They fit over the top of the platform. The nice thing about Xjs is roof rails are easy to mount to.

sounds exactly like how I will use mine, although I don't have a RTT nor do I plan on getting one so that saves me a ton of weight on the roof.

 

[JDGreens]

I don’t plan on a RTTeither my wife likes a ground tent and when I’m rolling solo I have a sleeping platform. That’s why it will be nice to have the bulky light stuff up top. And throw the recover box’s and cooler under the rig while sleeping.

I wanted the corners of the rack to be rounded so I made a jig out of wood to cut and form/bend the the outside edge of the square tubbing and then re-weld the corner back together. Used a large hole saw bit to achieve the outside radius in the wood Used the same bit and a smaller one to cut the curve out of 2 pieces of flat steel. Seems like a lot of work but I really like the final look if the rack.

 

[Trail_pilot]

I don’t plan on a RTTeither my wife likes a ground tent and when I’m rolling solo I have a sleeping platform. That’s why it will be nice to have the bulky light stuff up top. And throw the recover box’s and cooler under the rig while sleeping.

I wanted the corners of the rack to be rounded so I made a jig out of wood to cut and form/bend the the outside edge of the square tubbing and then re-weld the corner back together. Used a large hole saw bit to achieve the outside radius in the wood Used the same bit and a smaller one to cut the curve out of 2 pieces of flat steel. Seems like a lot of work but I really like the final look if the rack.

exactly what I am thinking! I Like the idea of the jig and may have to make something up for that. it sounds like you have already built what I have floating around in my head LOL.

 

[JDGreens]

Yeah the jig is setup to make one end at a time. My friend had some pieces of steel that worked perfectly for this jigs. The jig is adjustable so that if I want to build another for someone else I can adjust the dimensions accordingly. When I get back home I'll post a few pictures. I plan on sharing my build of this rack on Cherokee Talk forum but didn't want to string it alone for several months if I got sidetracked.

 

[Trail_pilot]

Yeah the jig is setup to make one end at a time. My friend had some pieces of steel that worked perfectly for this jigs. The jig is adjustable so that if I want to build another for someone else I can adjust the dimensions accordingly. When I get back home I'll post a few pictures. I plan on sharing my build of this rack on Cherokee Talk forum but didn't want to string it alone for several months if I got sidetracked.

Thank you! if you post a build thread up on a forum send me the link. I would love to see it!

 

[Phillysteak]

11 Gauge tubing gets heavy really quick.... Do you have an expected payload capacity in mind? I've been using 1.25" SQ and 2"SQ 11 gauge for my trailer build, really easy to weld but might get too heavy depending on your rack design.

A lot of the modern roof racks use two laser cut/ plasma cut flat plates for the sides of the rack and 8020 for the cross rails. 8020 can get pricey but if you want to alter the design you can always take it apart and reconfigure it.

If you know the ballpark length and width of the rack I can CAD it up quick and give you a weight estimate for 11 gauge tubing.

 

[Trail_pilot]

11 Gauge tubing gets heavy really quick.... Do you have an expected payload capacity in mind? I've been using 1.25" SQ and 2"SQ 11 gauge for my trailer build, really easy to weld but might get too heavy depending on your rack design.

A lot of the modern roof racks use two laser cut/ plasma cut flat plates for the sides of the rack and 8020 for the cross rails. 8020 can get pricey but if you want to alter the design you can always take it apart and reconfigure it.

If you know the ballpark length and width of the rack I can CAD it up quick and give you a weight estimate for 11 gauge tubing.

I would need to remeasure to get the dimensions, but I think my smaller rig was about 64x40 ish to cover factory roof rails. I know 0.125 tubing is roughly 1/8th" and have plenty of access to it at work. Hell I can pretty much any type of metal at work but cost is a big thing especially since my wife and I just put an offer in on a new house with a better workshop!!!