Light Up the Night

[Sasquatch SC]

She looks like a UFO coming down the mountain!

Let’s see your rigs late night looks!

 

[NorCalJoe]

Here’s mine with all but a set of cube lights on

 

[chuckoverland]

I want those lights behind the grill of my trek. Can you elaborate at all on the item/install for that? Obviously id want red instead of green.

 

[Sasquatch SC]

Absolutely. That will look bad ass on there.

What you will need:

• Wire Stripper Tool
• Zip Ties
• Extra 18 Gauge Wire (Don't need a whole lot, but more is better than not enough)
• Appropriate Size Heat Shrink Butt Splices
• Lighter/Heat Gun
• Fuse Piggyback/Fuse Adapter
• Light Strip

You should measure where you want to put the strip first. I recommend if you are wanting to put it in the grill you should do it along the inside-top area. That way it is not seen when not lit up, and when it is lit up, you can't actually see the LEDs, just the illumination from them. Then buy a strip that is a bit longer. Don't mess with any of the color changing ones, or any of the ones that have wiring harnesses or anything. I would recommend these. It has way more than you will need, but for only $8 it won't hurt throwing away the excess.

Steps:

1. Cut the light strip to the length you are going to use. It is marked with where it is recommended to cut at.
2. Clean the surface you are going to place them with an alcohol swab, and then attach the lights using the attached 3M strip.
3. If you look real close at the grill, there are tiny holes along the edge that are perfect for running the wire leads from the strip to the inside of the engine bay.
4. Strip the wire leads and crimp them to a positive and negative 18 gauge wire using the butt spices. Use a heat gun or a lighter to shrink the cover and keep it from getting any water in it.
5. Connect the negative to a grounded bolt or to the negative battery stud
6. Connect the fuse piggyback to the under-hood fuse labeled "ILLUM"
7. Crimp the positive line to the lead coming off the fuse piggyback
8. Use zip ties to secure the wires out of the way, away from anything that is going to put out a lot of heat or moving parts
9. Viola. Headlights on, light strip is on.

It took me a total of about 15 minutes to install it and wire it up. Post a picture if you get it done!

 

[chuckoverland]

Absolutely. That will look bad ass on there.

What you will need:

• Wire Stripper Tool
• Zip Ties
• Extra 18 Gauge Wire (Don't need a whole lot, but more is better than not enough)
• Appropriate Size Heat Shrink Butt Splices
• Lighter/Heat Gun
• Fuse Piggyback/Fuse Adapter
• Light Strip

You should measure where you want to put the strip first. I recommend if you are wanting to put it in the grill you should do it along the inside-top area. That way it is not seen when not lit up, and when it is lit up, you can't actually see the LEDs, just the illumination from them. Then buy a strip that is a bit longer. Don't mess with any of the color changing ones, or any of the ones that have wiring harnesses or anything. I would recommend these. It has way more than you will need, but for only $8 it won't hurt throwing away the excess.

Steps:

1. Cut the light strip to the length you are going to use. It is marked with where it is recommended to cut at.
2. Clean the surface you are going to place them with an alcohol swab, and then attach the lights using the attached 3M strip.
3. If you look real close at the grill, there are tiny holes along the edge that are perfect for running the wire leads from the strip to the inside of the engine bay.
4. Strip the wire leads and crimp them to a positive and negative 18 gauge wire using the butt spices. Use a heat gun or a lighter to shrink the cover and keep it from getting any water in it.
5. Connect the negative to a grounded bolt or to the negative battery stud
6. Connect the fuse piggyback to the under-hood fuse labeled "ILLUM"
7. Crimp the positive line to the lead coming off the fuse piggyback
8. Use zip ties to secure the wires out of the way, away from anything that is going to put out a lot of heat or moving parts
9. Viola. Headlights on, light strip is on.

It took me a total of about 15 minutes to install it and wire it up. Post a picture if you get it done!

Will do! Thanks!

 

[Sasquatch SC]

Will do! Thanks!

I'm also currently working on trail lights for my roof basket that doesn't require any drilling or interior mods for switches - but it will also have a quick connect/disconnect so removing the basket won't be a problem. I already have a test run on it. I'm planning on taking it off to finish up some final details and I was thinking I might do a step-by-step with photos and details for how I'm doing it. I'm putting four round 5" pod lights across the front of the basket, one 1" x 4" flush mounted light on either side of the basket, and two 1" x 4" flush mounted lights on the rear of the basket. The front and side lights are operated by a wireless fob button. The rear lights come on with the reverse lights.

 

[chuckoverland]

Im waiting on roof stuff until the Tacoma is 'done'. Thinking of getting the prinsu for the subie although you have to remove the headliner to install (cringe)
Someday.....

 

[KonzaLander]

I'm far from flashy, but use these lights every night on the desolate county road to my house.

 

[Sasquatch SC]

Im waiting on roof stuff until the Tacoma is 'done'. Thinking of getting the prinsu for the subie although you have to remove the headliner to install (cringe)
Someday.....

I already know I'm going to have to install my spare tire onto my roof basket because I don't want to block the power lift gate or my rear camera with a hitch mounted spare. So a RTT is out of the question for my setup, which is fine with me, I prefer my hammock tent anyways.

 

[Sasquatch SC]

I'm far from flashy, but use these lights every night on the desolate county road to my house.
View attachment 92986

I’m w/ you there. I live in a holler at the base of the foothills here in South Carolina. My car has awesome steering responsive headlights - they pivot when I steer to either side & tip based on going up or down - but the trail lights are crucial for spotting the deer off to the sides of the road.

In my 18 years of driving, I have racked up a total of 7 accidents w/ wildlife. 3 were me hitting them, but 4 were from them just broadsiding me. Most of those happened in the farmlands in the lowcountry where I grew up. They just come flying out of the fields & can’t be seen coming. Where I live now, I’ve had a couple of close calls with deer & two close calls w/ bears (in the late fall). But lighting up the landscape w/ my roof lights make it much easier to spot the eye glow.

However, I have to state that I absolutely despise the people that run off-road lights on public roads.

 

[KonzaLander]

I’m w/ you there. I live in a holler at the base of the foothills here in South Carolina. My car has awesome steering responsive headlights - they pivot when I steer to either side & tip based on going up or down - but the trail lights are crucial for spotting the deer off to the sides of the road.

In my 18 years of driving, I have racked up a total of 7 accidents w/ wildlife. 3 were me hitting them, but 4 were from them just broadsiding me. Most of those happened in the farmlands in the lowcountry where I grew up. They just come flying out of the fields & can’t be seen coming. Where I live now, I’ve had a couple of close calls with deer & two close calls w/ bears (in the late fall). But lighting up the landscape w/ my roof lights make it much easier to spot the eye glow.

However, I have to state that I absolutely despise the people that run off-road lights on public roads.

The whitetail are thick where I am in Kansas. Doesn't help that the road to my place parallels a creek. Been here 10 years and finally clipped a doe last fall. Now I have an ARB bumper I'll run the amber fogs with traffic since they are DOT stamped and have an awesome cutoff, but the IPFs are saved for empty roads and trails.

 

[Wawa Skittletits]

I rarely take the opportunity to get pictures of the places I go or the things I’ve done to my wagon but here are some old pictures of my lights. No headlights or fogs in the pics and covers are required in the snow as you can see in the third picture haha. The light output and throw of my Black Oak LEDs is nothing short of amazing. Makes you wish you could drive around like that all the time.







I put yellow Baja Designs with wide cornering optics in the OE fog location that are used as fogs on road, HID lows, and HIR highs because I take my on road lighting as serious as my off road. Tons of deer, plenty of bears, and a number of other damage inducing animals where I live so I like to see as well as I can while still being cognizant of oncoming drivers.

 

[Desert Runner]

I rarely take the opportunity to get pictures of the places I go or the things I’ve done to my wagon but here are some old pictures of my lights. No headlights or fogs in the pics and covers are required in the snow as you can see in the third picture haha. The light output and throw of my Black Oak LEDs is nothing short of amazing. Makes you wish you could drive around like that all the time.

View attachment 93022

View attachment 93023

View attachment 93024

I put yellow Baja Designs with wide cornering optics in the OE fog location that are used as fogs on road, HID lows, and HIR highs because I take my on road lighting as serious as my off road. Tons of deer, plenty of bears, and a number of other damage inducing animals where I live so I like to see as well as I can while still being cognizant of oncoming drivers.

How do you like the 'Amber vs White' light' ?

 

[Wawa Skittletits]

How do you like the 'Amber vs White' light' ?

I’ve been running fogs in the 2500-3000k range for 19 years now because I absolutely prefer their performance in inclement weather. The edge has only gotten wider over the years with more and more headlights operating north of 4300k. My current low beams are 5000k (as high as I’d ever go) and I’ll even turn my fogs on for a bit after driving through the night for a while because the contrast is a relief to the eyes. As far as off road lighting goes I do take the covers off for trails.

Here’s a more current daytime picture.

 

[Sasquatch SC]

I’ve been running fogs in the 2500-3000k range for 19 years now because I absolutely prefer their performance in inclement weather. The edge has only gotten wider over the years with more and more headlights operating north of 4300k. My current low beams are 5000k (as high as I’d ever go) and I’ll even turn my fogs on for a bit after driving through the night for a while because the contrast is a relief to the eyes. As far as off road lighting goes I do take the covers off for trails.

Here’s a more current daytime picture.

View attachment 93042

That’s a sick roo my man.

 

[Desert Runner]

I’ve been running fogs in the 2500-3000k range for 19 years now because I absolutely prefer their performance in inclement weather. The edge has only gotten wider over the years with more and more headlights operating north of 4300k. My current low beams are 5000k (as high as I’d ever go) and I’ll even turn my fogs on for a bit after driving through the night for a while because the contrast is a relief to the eyes. As far as off road lighting goes I do take the covers off for trails.

Here’s a more current daytime picture.

View attachment 93042

I did HELLA 500 AMBER, a 55 watt light. By doing Amber, it is easier on the eyes, fog, and snow. A side benefit I found is that if on road, only 5% ? Of drivers flash you. White....85%. I have had too many close calls with deer over the years.

Part of this is probably due to drivers acclimating to LED lights from the aftermarket and OEM's. Standard halogen lights are dim by comparison. So light sensitivity has been reduced.

I don't run with them in town, very often. With the ARB bumper, I had to do some small fog light replacement lights, away from where the OEM's were located. See my Avatar for the Hella amber. Have the replacement fogs purchased...no photo yet, not installed on a switch.

 

[chuckoverland]

Absolutely. That will look bad ass on there.

What you will need:

• Wire Stripper Tool
• Zip Ties
• Extra 18 Gauge Wire (Don't need a whole lot, but more is better than not enough)
• Appropriate Size Heat Shrink Butt Splices
• Lighter/Heat Gun
• Fuse Piggyback/Fuse Adapter
• Light Strip

You should measure where you want to put the strip first. I recommend if you are wanting to put it in the grill you should do it along the inside-top area. That way it is not seen when not lit up, and when it is lit up, you can't actually see the LEDs, just the illumination from them. Then buy a strip that is a bit longer. Don't mess with any of the color changing ones, or any of the ones that have wiring harnesses or anything. I would recommend these. It has way more than you will need, but for only $8 it won't hurt throwing away the excess.

Steps:

1. Cut the light strip to the length you are going to use. It is marked with where it is recommended to cut at.
2. Clean the surface you are going to place them with an alcohol swab, and then attach the lights using the attached 3M strip.
3. If you look real close at the grill, there are tiny holes along the edge that are perfect for running the wire leads from the strip to the inside of the engine bay.
4. Strip the wire leads and crimp them to a positive and negative 18 gauge wire using the butt spices. Use a heat gun or a lighter to shrink the cover and keep it from getting any water in it.
5. Connect the negative to a grounded bolt or to the negative battery stud
6. Connect the fuse piggyback to the under-hood fuse labeled "ILLUM"
7. Crimp the positive line to the lead coming off the fuse piggyback
8. Use zip ties to secure the wires out of the way, away from anything that is going to put out a lot of heat or moving parts
9. Viola. Headlights on, light strip is on.

It took me a total of about 15 minutes to install it and wire it up. Post a picture if you get it done!

So from what im seeing, the ILUMMI fuse is on the inside fuse box. Is there one under the hood that would work to your knowlege?

Fuse Box Diagram Subaru Crosstrek / XV (2018, 2019-...)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Subaru Crosstrek (XV) (2018, 2019...)

www.google.com

 

[Sasquatch SC]

So from what im seeing, the ILUMMI fuse is on the inside fuse box. Is there one under the hood that would work to your knowlege?

Fuse Box Diagram Subaru Crosstrek / XV (2018, 2019-...)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Subaru Crosstrek (XV) (2018, 2019...)

www.google.com

Number 3 or 4 should work. Those are for your low beam headlights.

 

[chuckoverland]

Number 3 or 4 should work. Those are for your low beam headlights.

Thats what i was thinking, but im beyond newb at wiring. Ive only just watched a friend off here install some hella lights on his bumper (last weekend).
Lights are ordered. Hope to put them in monday!

 

[Sasquatch SC]

Thats what i was thinking, but im beyond newb at wiring. Ive only just watched a friend off here install some hella lights on his bumper (last weekend).
Lights are ordered. Hope to put them in monday!

Don't sweat it. It's pretty simple as long as you use a good wire crimper, the right connectors, and always use a fuse. I grew up fishing offshore with my old man and I've never been able to get rid of the itch. When it comes to electrical systems on a boat it is a never-ending struggle to keep it all up and running - so I have gotten pretty good at it. My old man had a big boat, so it wasn't as hard. My boat is a 19' and there are no places to ground anything on it, so everything has to be double wired, soldered, fused, and tucked away. Water, electricity, and corrosion are a constant battle. It makes wiring on a car an absolute breeze.