Jakes - 2013 Land Rover LR4
- Thread starter Jacob Camp
- Start date
So I am on the hut for Rock Sliders. I have kind of narrowed the selection down to the VOYAGER ROCK SLIDERS or TACTICAL ROVERS ROCK SLIDERS.
I am open to different brands as well, I just like the look of these two.
Let me know what you think.
Cheers
I am open to different brands as well, I just like the look of these two.
Let me know what you think.
Cheers
I have had both of those sliders on my LR4. First the voyagers. They were powder coated, then rusted out, then re-powder coated with a more zinc rich process, then almost rusted out again before I sold them. They don't protect the air tank or compressor, but I have read they now sell a separate air compressor guard.
The Tactical sliders protect a lot more, but weigh more. They are less comfortable to stand on, I should have requested a custom side step on them. But they are really well built and fit well. You do need to move the compressor up with a bracket they provide which is a bit of work. You also hear the compressor more with the tactical sliders. If you intend to off road a lot, protect the compressor! The tank sits up a bit higher, so im not sure you have to really worry about it as much, but the T44 sliders do cover the tank (all the way into the frame rail.)
One of the huge reasons I wanted to switch to tactical, they work with a near by company called Zincnation (zincnation.com) and they do a spray metalizing process to them, which is like hot spray aluminum and acts as a galvanizing layer. Eric (owner of tactical) has a set of sliders on his LR3 that are white, from the metalizing process, and he just leaves them that way.. no paint, no powdercoat.. to show that they wont rust!! That is HUGE for Iowa.. the salt just destroys things. I had mine black texture powder coated, but with the metalizing that powder coat is purely asthetic. (it probably does add protection, but thats not the main point).
I still have my voyager ladder and rack, but they will rust too. I had to have the ladder redone once already. I sold the voyager sliders and then bought tactical for the rear bumper, sliders, gas tank skid and tranfer case skid.... I had them ALL metalized and powder coated. I'm hoping I can evade rust issues for much longer.
Tactical slider...
And with ALL the skids...
I have had both of those sliders on my LR4. First the voyagers. They were powder coated, then rusted out, then re-powder coated with a more zinc rich process, then almost rusted out again before I sold them. They don't protect the air tank or compressor, but I have read they now sell a separate air compressor guard.
The Tactical sliders protect a lot more, but weigh more. They are less comfortable to stand on, I should have requested a custom side step on them. But they are really well built and fit well. You do need to move the compressor up with a bracket they provide which is a bit of work. You also hear the compressor more with the tactical sliders. If you intend to off road a lot, protect the compressor! The tank sits up a bit higher, so im not sure you have to really worry about it as much, but the T44 sliders do cover the tank (all the way into the frame rail.)
One of the huge reasons I wanted to switch to tactical, they work with a near by company called Zincnation (zincnation.com) and they do a spray metalizing process to them, which is like hot spray aluminum and acts as a galvanizing layer. Eric (owner of tactical) has a set of sliders on his LR3 that are white, from the metalizing process, and he just leaves them that way.. no paint, no powdercoat.. to show that they wont rust!! That is HUGE for Iowa.. the salt just destroys things. I had mine black texture powder coated, but with the metalizing that powder coat is purely asthetic. (it probably does add protection, but thats not the main point).
I still have my voyager ladder and rack, but they will rust too. I had to have the ladder redone once already. I sold the voyager sliders and then bought tactical for the rear bumper, sliders, gas tank skid and tranfer case skid.... I had them ALL metalized and powder coated. I'm hoping I can evade rust issues for much longer.
Tactical slider...
And with ALL the skids...
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Hey Mike
This is exactly what I was hopping to hear, thank you for all your help!
The pics really help as well, I will be calling Tactical in the morning.
Hi Guys,
Do any of you know if the LR3 18 inch wheels will fit the LR4 with out spacers? I heard / Read if you trim the cooling fins on the brake rotors they will fit... Not much out there on this topic, besides the 18 inch Compomotive wheels. Personally I like the look of the stock LR3 wheels better.
Do any of you know if the LR3 18 inch wheels will fit the LR4 with out spacers? I heard / Read if you trim the cooling fins on the brake rotors they will fit... Not much out there on this topic, besides the 18 inch Compomotive wheels. Personally I like the look of the stock LR3 wheels better.
I love this I’m in the market for rig I used to have a disco 1 so I’m biased towards Land Rover but I’m torn between a 4Runner and an lr3 or lr4 hows your reliability? Any crazy issues like with the disco? But if I go with the lr3 or lr4 I’m gonna totally steal this build I love itSweeeet! Another 2013 LR4. Seeing your pictures reminds me of mine about 4 years ago. Awesome to see another one get setup for touring!
For the rear tire carrier, I highly recommend Tactical Rovers/Tactical 4x4. They make great stuff. If you don't want a full steel rear bar (which goes over the factory steel bumper), check out Voyager Offroad (they made my rack and ladder). They have a tire swing that uses factory bumper.
The T44 option can be tire, tire+jerry, tire+dual jerry, etc. He can make it however you want.
I usually run with my swing arms off, unless I am on a trip.
Here is with the swing arms on. The bumper is amazing and tough! You can see where I stuck my OB badge.
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Only thing I have had to do is replace an alternator. (which I am pretty sure I killed after jump starting someone, I only use jump packs now).
Otherwise it hasn't had any issues. I have had to get a few panels replaced due to deer strike (big Fn buck ran smack into the side of it, but its got thick steel body panels so it held up well.) . But ya, keep an eye on the coolant since people do occasionally have a failed water pump. I tend to watch my fluids pretty close anyway, these newer L319 rovers seem really solid.
And just as a note, my build was also inspired by a few other white LR4 builds. OB 0001 @finlayforprez had the first, @gulfstreamchris also has a white LR4 with ARB front, T44 rear, etc. David (fin) better not sell his.. he was hinting at that on insta. That would be a sad day.
Hey
No mechanical problems yet, I am at 75,000 km 46,000 miles.
I did have a couple small things needed to be fixed, I had a light in my wing mirror burn out haha
Really happy with my rig! (fuel economy could be better)
P.s. You can find them with stock 18'' wheels. can save a bit of money that way.
So if you dig into the issues it's caliper size. In Australia they run 17" wheels as they're allowed to run the smaller brake caliper.
Our highway safety requires braking from in excessive of 120mph within a certain distance.
Pretty obsurd if you ask me... anyway when I was thinking about building mine up I really considered buying the smaller calipers and rotors.
I did talk with Mr Fin about it too and our mutual thought was we'd probably not notice anything unless we wanted to tow something.
In the end I've kept mine stock and use for overlanding/camping trips with the family.
I then have turned to a discovery 1 to build for more hardcore trails. Plan to have it as a Rubicon rig.
Anyway, just some context...oh and yes I know people who have grinded down their brakes to fit the 18s. Just wonder how that works on an insurance investigation regarding an accident. I think swapping brakes would go unnoticed over the grinding.
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Smaller caliper and rotor size might be fine for some people, but consider the trade off. In AUS it might be ok since you don't have do deal with as much elevation, but even without mountains the traction control system, even with HD pack, uses the brakes quite a bit. Hill decent, and everything else. When using these heavy vehicles in mountain areas, the heat capacity of the larger brakes can help.
I want as much heat capacity in my braking system as I can get. I'll take that over 1" on the sidewall. Larger discs equal more heat capacity. Do what is best for your situation, but just be aware of the trade offs.
I want as much heat capacity in my braking system as I can get. I'll take that over 1" on the sidewall. Larger discs equal more heat capacity. Do what is best for your situation, but just be aware of the trade offs.
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