Isolator recommendation? Redarc?

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Any one running the Red Arc SMART START BATTERY ISOLATOR & WIRING KIT 12V or have a high quality recommendation for an isolator? I want to run a dual battery setup.. want a good long lasting isolator..
 

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I run one of these to isolate my winch and have considered another to deactivate the cable running from my battery to the bed of my truck (where my charger/battery live). May not have the same functionality as the RedArc part but isolate it will. Of course this part requires some sort of external switching. Now I just need to find a place to mount it...

 

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I run one of these to isolate my winch and have considered another to deactivate the cable running from my battery to the bed of my truck (where my charger/battery live). May not have the same functionality as the RedArc part but isolate it will. Of course this part requires some sort of external switching. Now I just need to find a place to mount it...

I have had nothing but bad luck with electrical components from Amazon, wired my house battery setup recently with all RedArc equipment and decided to purchase a 50 amp circuit breaker for the main feed line rather than the bolt in fuse provided by RedArc so that I could both reset it after a failure and be able to quickly disconnect it for any reason, Amazon part lasted less than a month before it failed on a trip. So many no name and gray market parts. Worth it to stick with a reputable brand name and supplier for parts that have potential to cause a fire or damage equipment in my opinion. As a side note I did find that Amazon carries Ancor and Selterm brand crimp on cable lugs at a good price and they work as they should, any of the others I have tried are super thin metal and do not hold a proper crimp
 

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I have had nothing but bad luck with electrical components from Amazon, wired my house battery setup recently with all RedArc equipment and decided to purchase a 50 amp circuit breaker for the main feed line rather than the bolt in fuse provided by RedArc so that I could both reset it after a failure and be able to quickly disconnect it for any reason, Amazon part lasted less than a month before it failed on a trip. So many no name and gray market parts. Worth it to stick with a reputable brand name and supplier for parts that have potential to cause a fire or damage equipment in my opinion. As a side note I did find that Amazon carries Ancor and Selterm brand crimp on cable lugs at a good price and they work as they should, any of the others I have tried are super thin metal and do not hold a proper crimp
Totally get what you are saying but the Amazon link is to a Warn part. ;) Don't even get me started on the SunLuckDogNoodle brand LED light bars for $49.95 ;)
 

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Totally get what you are saying but the Amazon link is to a Warn part. ;) Don't even get me started on the SunLuckDogNoodle brand LED light bars for $49.95 ;)
Did not catch that it was a name brand part, and not even have any extra letters in the name ..lol
 

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I went with a DC to DC charger for my setup and love it. My 138ah battery can be dead and then fully charged in about 30 minutes. It combined with my 100W solar panel and I can run my fridge for a long time!
Awesome!!!
 

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I went with a DC to DC charger for my setup and love it. My 138ah battery can be dead and then fully charged in about 30 minutes. It combined with my 100W solar panel and I can run my fridge for a long time!
Love my RedArc manager 30, as long as I travel a couple of hours a day house battery is always fully charged. unless we are staying in one spot for more than two days we do not even bring the solar panels anymore.
 

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I went with a DC to DC charger for my setup and love it. My 138ah battery can be dead and then fully charged in about 30 minutes. It combined with my 100W solar panel and I can run my fridge for a long time!
Love my RedArc manager 30, as long as I travel a couple of hours a day house battery is always fully charged. unless we are staying in one spot for more than two days we do not even bring the solar panels anymore.
I’d love to hear more about that set up. I’m going to look into that manageable 30…. Thanks!
 
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I’d love to hear more about that set up. I’m going to look into that manageable 30…. Thanks!
Pretty simple, the REDARC controller sits on top of my battery box I built out of a Dewalt toolbox. My solar panel feeds into the REDARC and charges the battery when truck isn't running. When truck is running the DC-DC charger takes over rapidly charging the battery. I usually try and point my truck to the South wherever I park to get maximum solar charging.
 

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I’d love to hear more about that set up. I’m going to look into that manageable 30…. Thanks!
Pretty simple, the REDARC controller sits on top of my battery box I built out of a Dewalt toolbox. My solar panel feeds into the REDARC and charges the battery when truck isn't running. When truck is running the DC-DC charger takes over rapidly charging the battery. I usually try and point my truck to the South wherever I park to get maximum solar charging.
Yeah I was looking into the redarc Manager 30 that’s pretty cool I think that is a much better option than just the isolator.. and they plan on running solar so that helps get ahead of the game. Appreciate the comment it definitely started a whole research kick on my end.!
 
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DCDC chargers are the way to go, especially with modern vehicles or where the two batteries are some distance apart.
If you need to be able to start your vehicle from the auxiliary battery, a simple solenoid with a momentary switch will allow you to connect the batteries together but disconnect after starting.
 

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I’d love to hear more about that set up. I’m going to look into that manageable 30…. Thanks!
Yeah I was looking into the redarc Manager 30 that’s pretty cool I think that is a much better option than just the isolator.. and they plan on running solar so that helps get ahead of the game. Appreciate the comment it definitely started a whole research kick on my end.!
I will post up a couple of pictures of it installed in my JK later tonight. I started with the Manager 30 and a 100ah lithium battery, and by the time I was done ended up with the RedVision system, an 1kw inverter and way more wiring than I intended, but overall results I am super happy with. I have a switch pro up front for all the business functions, then the RedArc system controls all the house functions. With two disconnects I can isolate all the aftermarket wiring and go back to stock Jeep configuration if I should have any problems in the field. Typically have a Jackery 300 or 1000 along on longer trips depending on the season, and can use that for emergency power for the fridge etc should the main system go down for any reason. So far except for the Amazon import circuit breaker I have had no issues at all.
 

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I’d love to hear more about that set up. I’m going to look into that manageable 30…. Thanks!
Yeah I was looking into the redarc Manager 30 that’s pretty cool I think that is a much better option than just the isolator.. and they plan on running solar so that helps get ahead of the game. Appreciate the comment it definitely started a whole research kick on my end.!
I will post up a couple of pictures of it installed in my JK later tonight. I started with the Manager 30 and a 100ah lithium battery, and by the time I was done ended up with the RedVision system, an 1kw inverter and way more wiring than I intended, but overall results I am super happy with. I have a switch pro up front for all the business functions, then the RedArc system controls all the house functions. With two disconnects I can isolate all the aftermarket wiring and go back to stock Jeep configuration if I should have any problems in the field. Typically have a Jackery 300 or 1000 along on longer trips depending on the season, and can use that for emergency power for the fridge etc should the main system go down for any reason. So far except for the Amazon import circuit breaker I have had no issues at all.
Looking forward to seeing the pics! Sounds like a solid setup.. I love my switchpro and like how you have the two separate. I have a goal zero 3000 I want to add in the mix as well luckily the Tacoma has a outlet in the bed so as we explore and drive between locations that has a place to charge..
 

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Looking forward to seeing the pics! Sounds like a solid setup.. I love my switchpro and like how you have the two separate. I have a goal zero 3000 I want to add in the mix as well luckily the Tacoma has a outlet in the bed so as we explore and drive between locations that has a place to charge..
I was running everything through my jackery 1000, could get about same two days out of it stationary, but it would take all day to charge of the 12volt of the rig, now we are charged in less than two hours from a flat battery, charges at 30 amps solid from the alternator.
 

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Looking forward to seeing the pics! Sounds like a solid setup.. I love my switchpro and like how you have the two separate. I have a goal zero 3000 I want to add in the mix as well luckily the Tacoma has a outlet in the bed so as we explore and drive between locations that has a place to charge..
I was running everything through my jackery 1000, could get about same two days out of it stationary, but it would take all day to charge of the 12volt of the rig, now we are charged in less than two hours from a flat battery, charges at 30 amps solid from the alternator.
Woah ya that’s fast!!!
 
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Just a word here on Amazon goods ....

I bought a cheap DCDC Charger off Amazon last year, didn't install till this june, it worked great till day 2 of a 7 day trip this Aug then completely failed.
Redarc is on the list to replace it.

Micheal says it best when he says "buy once cry once"

When it comes to something like this don't scrimp!
Save untill you can at least afford a Top Name Brand Part..
 

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I removed the rear seats of the JK and built a raised platform to provided storage on the 60% passenger side, and a electrical box on the 40% driver side. The cabinet work is all prototype currently and we will rebuild it after a year or so of use and determining what works best for us. Most likely I will relocate the electrical into a higher cavity in the drawer system to reduce any chance of damage if I play submarine more than I should, battery would remain and the rest of the space would be more storage, just did not think it out before I installed it here.

This photo shows what the electrical section looks like from the exterior, cooling fan, inverter control panel, and compressor air gauge are on the face, open slot above holds tool bag and safety equipment, drawers above hold camera gear. A compression latch holds the electrical lid closed, lid and cabinet are hinged and fold back for access to the electrical components
Box.jpg

Photo below shows component layout, RedArc Manager 30 on the rear wall, 100ah lithium battery on right, Redvision system on left side with we boost above, Renogy inverter on back side of front panel.
Overall.jpg

Closer view of interior, 12 volt computer fan in lower left corner is controlled via a make on rise thermostat and turns on if cabinet temp reaches 90 degrees, center section contains the bulk of wiring, battery sensors Fuses etc. Not seen is a heated mat under the battery controlled via the Redvision system to turn on battery heat if the temps get near freezing to that we are still able to provide a charge during winter camping. At the time I put all this together RedArc did not have thier inverters approved for sale in the US, would have been nice to be able to control it from the RedVision contol panel and app, may have to upgrade it and move the Renogy over to the WJ or Ram.
inside close.jpg

Removed the handle screws from my ARB fridge and made an adapter plate to mount the Redvision screen to the fridge, limited space in the JK and since it controls all the camping functions this was the perfect place for it. Used the flexible cable guide track from ARB to enclose and guide the fridge power cord and cat 5 cable to the display so no issues with it all sliding in and out with the fridge. One of these days I will have to peel the protective cover off the display lol... I can control the Redvison functions from the rear mounted panel, or from the app on the android tablet in the cockpit or phone. Its nice to be able to turn on camp lights from inside the roof top tent
Redvision.jpg

The Manager 30 is fed from #4 battery cables connected to the main vehicle battery via a 50 amp circuit breaker under the hood (wire this large can defiantly cause a fire if it shorts out and is not overload protected, plus the breaker allows for a quick disconnect if I want to isolate the system. I could have grounded the system to the chassis under the Jeep, but wanted a dedicated ground back to the battery to ensure a clean supply. (I tend to run dedicated grounds to most electrical devices and lights, hate chasing a bad ground gremlin).
 

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Woah ya that’s fast!!!
While I don't have the same setup I do enjoy the same fast charging and it is nice for sure. Nothing like having your charging status hit "float" (trickle charge) within minutes of leaving camp. If you decide to pursue this route make sure to use a wire size calculator to properly size the wires/cables that you use - because nobody wants an unplanned campfire in the rig ;) Notice the big fat cables that @OTH Overland uses in certain runs in his setup (vehicle charging system to charger at least).

Micheal says it best when he says "buy once cry once"
Could not agree more! I can still hear the voice of my father as he implored not buying cheap tools ;) Of course there are many factors that go into a purchase...