Enthusiast III
Hi I have built several trailers over the years. This is my current trailer and gear. It has been everywhere.
Homemade expedition trailer
- Thread starter MLGrace
- Start date
Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
Explorer I
- 3,680
- First Name
- Brian
- Last Name
- McGahuey
- Member #
-
23711
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- GMRS WRMV941
I like this! Nicely done. I wish I'd had the foresight to buy doors on mine, instead of trying to build them myself. Alas, now it's harder to try and retrofit them, or seal up the current doors than it would have been to just buy doors in the first place.
I'm curious, what did you use to coat the trailer? I'm not at all happy with what I coated mine with, and I'm starting to look at different options for that.
I'm curious, what did you use to coat the trailer? I'm not at all happy with what I coated mine with, and I'm starting to look at different options for that.
Enthusiast III
I used monstaliner. Overall I’m happy with it. My son and I have put it on several trailers. Doors are probably the most expensive part of many builds. Well worth it however.
Explorer I
- 3,680
- First Name
- Brian
- Last Name
- McGahuey
- Member #
-
23711
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- GMRS WRMV941
I agree, that doors are worth it, as I'd wish I'd done that in the first place.
I love DIY trailer threads.
I love DIY trailer threads.
Off-Road Ranger I
- 1,518
- First Name
- Javier
- Last Name
- Armendariz
- Member #
-
27524
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KC3VWL
Enthusiast III
Yep Dinoot towers welded on. The crossbars are just 1.5” square tubing. 11 gauge which is 1/8 wall.
Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
Member III
Great job on the trailer, I really like the overall build and how you have it setup. I saw it a while back when you had it listed for sale and would have made an offer if you were closer. Now that I have a kid I'm in need of more space so looking to build something similar. In my search for ideas and planning I was hoping you'd answer a few questions.
Wood Vs. Sheet metal siding? I'm sure there is cost and weight savings when using wood, but have you run into any durability issues? With the liner you have on it and good doors it should stay dry and not rot, but was curious on the choice since you seem to have the fab skills to skin it in metal.
When building how did you calculate axle placement and how does it tow? Did you try to match the hitch to axle center measurement with the wheel base of your JK for it to track the same?
Last question and this one is only if you're feeling generous, do you have some rough measurements you could post? Box size, Overall length, Overall width and Tongue length (box to hitch)
Again, great little trailer and this one has been the inspiration for what I'm planning to build. Already have axle/suspension and a few other parts ordered just need to find time to get out to the shop and start building.
Wood Vs. Sheet metal siding? I'm sure there is cost and weight savings when using wood, but have you run into any durability issues? With the liner you have on it and good doors it should stay dry and not rot, but was curious on the choice since you seem to have the fab skills to skin it in metal.
When building how did you calculate axle placement and how does it tow? Did you try to match the hitch to axle center measurement with the wheel base of your JK for it to track the same?
Last question and this one is only if you're feeling generous, do you have some rough measurements you could post? Box size, Overall length, Overall width and Tongue length (box to hitch)
Again, great little trailer and this one has been the inspiration for what I'm planning to build. Already have axle/suspension and a few other parts ordered just need to find time to get out to the shop and start building.
Enthusiast III
Good morning. Let's see if I can provide some information.
I used painters' tape on the floor of my shop to create the overall frame design. This allowed me to see what it would look like as well as plan the structural supports. The trailer was built using a frame and a box.
The frame was built first and was built using 2-inch rectangular steel that is 1/8 inch wall (11 guage). I believe it is 12’4 long including the rear bumper. It is overbuilt with multiple cross braces made from the same material. The tongue is full length as i wanted it to support full length. The 3500lb axle is centered at 34.5” forward of the rear of the trailer. It pulls great and looks correct. I looked at a couplee of other trailers that I have to see the axle placement. It is basically 2/3 back on the box which many use as a design percentage. I would likely use timbren axleless springs if i did it again. I had to derate these springs to keep it from bouncing so hard at times. The overall width was increased to be really close to overall jku width by adding 1.5-inch quality aluminum spacers that match the jeeps pattern.
The box was built independently and is bolted to the frame on four corners. It allows me to replace it or repair it. It has a 1-inch square steel frame with plywood skin. If you go less than ½ inch it will possibly crack on severe bounces. It is right at 60 wide, 30 tall, and 83 inches long. i wanted to skin it with thin ply with aluminum but I could not justify the cost.
The box to hitch length is 60”. it allows a generous amount of front storage space.
So here is what I think about the design after taking it through many trails and outings. It works. I could have made it prettier but not likely any stronger. I'm already thinking about what i will do next regarding this trailer. The box life only has so many years of abuse, has had some minor cracking, and im not getting any younger. So im considering getting a custom box built out of aluminum by highwayproducts.com. Same basic design but they can build a much better aluminum box than i can, even though i can and do weld aluminum. It'll be pricey.
On another thought have you considered a cargo trailer conversion. I see tons of upside to that for a growing family. The roof can be lowered and a family can sleep comfortably. You can lock it up and leave for the day.
Member III
Thanks for taking the time to get the measurements. Your dimensions are very close to what I've been planning, I might go a little narrower than you so it's closer in size to my WJ. From what I've read 3500# springs are a bit much for a trailer like this and make them very bouncey. How many leafs did you end up taking out of the pack and are you running shocks on it?
I've kicked around the idea of starting with an enclosed trailer and customizing it but I don't plan to sleep inside and I like doing the fab work so building from scratch seems the best way to get exactly what I want.
I've kicked around the idea of starting with an enclosed trailer and customizing it but I don't plan to sleep inside and I like doing the fab work so building from scratch seems the best way to get exactly what I want.
I was thinking of making my own doors,I agree ,bought doors look like a good option
Explorer I
- 3,680
- First Name
- Brian
- Last Name
- McGahuey
- Member #
-
23711
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- GMRS WRMV941
I've purchased doors for the square drop build I'm currently working on. To mean, the benefits are worth the cost, and the fact that I know they'll seal.
Explorer I
- 3,680
- First Name
- Brian
- Last Name
- McGahuey
- Member #
-
23711
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- GMRS WRMV941
Yeah, unfortunately, that's the going rate for doors these days. I got lucky and scored mine off flea-bay for about half off. If you keep your eyes open, you might be able to score a deal.
Enthusiast III
One leaf from each pack. No shocks although I will add them to my next trailer along with brakes.
I’m already planning a new sleep in trailer. 5x8 and it will look similar to the Drifter Trailers
Member III
I'm going through the same process. After finishing my expedition trailer I started a square back trailer build, also 5x8. I used Drifter Trailers for a lot of my design cues. I'm still using my expedition trailer but if all goes well this will be its last year. Good luck with your new build!
