Chevy silverado 1500 suspension ideas.

[Voyager1500]

Hello. Ive got a 2017 silverado. Currently has a superlift 3.5" lift kit. Did when under warranty because it did not require any major mods. Put 33's BFG's and 20 x 10 RC wheels, Rubs badly at rear of front wheel well and was close up front. Doing research and found that most 6" kits are only good for 33's. So since I want clearance and the ability to run trails ( not rock crawling) I am thinking of the following kits. Rough country 7" kit with their vertex shocks and coil overs, OR The BDS 6 " kit probably with FOX shocks and struts, or The Ready LIft 7" kit with Bilstein shocks and struts with extentions up front. I'm torn and undeceided which direction to head, I would also like to beef up rear springs either with add a leafs or totally new springs, which are an option with BDS. The ready lift does not require hacking up the front diff with exception of one tab, the other kits do require cutting off mounts on diff. Also ready lift seems to drop diff more to reduce the cv angles, where the other s at full droop seem steep. I plan to stick with the 33's , but want more travel for better articulation and traction off road, possibly run 35's down the road ? I have no first hand experince with any of these kits, Has anyone used these and what shocks / struts did you use and how do you like them for all around use. This truck serves many purposes, which makes it that much harder to deceide, it's a daily driver, work truck, family truckster, and what ever else you can think of. so it's needs to be a system that will have excellent road manners , but also excell off road. Any feed back would be apprciated, espcially if you have first hand experience with any of these in the 14 to 18 rados' OR if you have a better direction for me to head. Not sure if I need dirt logic UCA s and hard core stuff like that , but not opposed to it either.

Thank you

 

[ThundahBeagle]

I 'very got a 2014 GMC Sierra. So the same generation of the same basic setup you have. I put Bilstein 1500's on mine and the front is leveled to the top setting. My snow tires look positively undersized and the stock 31.6 inch tires (265/65r18) tires still look a little small with the level. Maybe I am missing something. But how does the Chevy Trail Boss operate on 33's with essentially a level and block while you are having trouble with your truck on 33's with a 3.5 inch lift?

I cant imagine needing a 6 or 7 inch lift for 33's. I hope I dont. I plan on getting some 33 inch wild peaks this spring

 

[Voyager1500]

I 'very got a 2014 GMC Sierra. So the same generation of the same basic setup you have. I put Bilstein 1500's on mine and the front is leveled to the top setting. My snow tires look positively undersized and the stock 31.6 inch tires (265/65r18) tires still look a little small with the level. Maybe I am missing something. But how does the Chevy Trail Boss operate on 33's with essentially a level and block while you are having trouble with your truck on 33's with a 3.5 inch lift?

I cant imagine needing a 6 or 7 inch lift for 33's. I hope I dont. I plan on getting some 33 inch wild peaks this spring

The 33's fit, sorta but on level ground they hit the back part of the inner fender in turns, like 3/4 to lock. They have this thing called the norcal mod I believe to clearance that section to eliminate this problem, but it requires you to cut into and remove a portion of a structural seam on the cab, not doing that to my truck, i would rather gain some height to clearance it. Plus at full compression I fear you would still hit it, so i would rather do it right than do more damage to my truck, or damage a tire which is avoidable with the correct set up. just gotta figure out what that set up is. I am leaning toward s the ready lift at this point, but really want some feedback and other options to explore before making this jump.

 

[Deleted member 14476]

Give me a couple minutes lol.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

The 33's fit, sorta but on level ground they hit the back part of the inner fender in turns, like 3/4 to lock. They have this thing called the norcal mod I believe to clearance that section to eliminate this problem, but it requires you to cut into and remove a portion of a structural seam on the cab, not doing that to my truck, i would rather gain some height to clearance it. Plus at full compression I fear you would still hit it, so i would rather do it right than do more damage to my truck, or damage a tire which is avoidable with the correct set up. just gotta figure out what that set up is. I am leaning toward s the ready lift at this point, but really want some feedback and other options to explore before making this jump.

Yeah, I wouldn't want to do any cutting or structural work either. Let's see what Conner's got to say. Plus theres stuff I've seen in the Full Size area

 

[Deleted member 14476]

Give me a couple minutes lol.

I’m not a big fan of lift kits, especially for the 1500’s with the IFS I think they’re more trouble than they’re worth, they mess up a lot of the suspension geometry, and not too many for IFS Chevy’s are designed for real off-road use.
I think a route worth considering would be getting some oem replacement coilovers, that’d get you the first 3” of lift. Then you could put the 3” bulge fiberglass fenders from FiberWerx on the front, and that’d let you run 37’s no problem. I have good friends down here running 37’s on 07-18 silverados with 4” spindle lifts, stock fenders, but 2wd (NorCal Mod)A 3” would work with fiberglass fenders, you’d retain 4wd, and more room for up travel. That’d get you close to the lift you’d get from a lift kit, it’d ride a whole lot better, and you’re retaining factory suspension geometry/reliability.

I’m also curious if you have any offset on your rims?

(Still writing option if you don’t want to remove stock fenders) but BDS is the best out of those three

(Edit: I think the fenders would still require the NorCal Mod since Chevy blessed us with square wheel wells, but I wouldn’t be so nervous about it, they can be done very professionally and clean, check out “454motorsports” on IG and click on their Chevy fender mod story highlight on their page)

 

[MMc]

My first thoughts was 20" wheels are to big, 17" wheels with the right offset. you'll be able to air down better for those washboard roads. A set of progressive Leif springs would be my way, soft when you are empty and great riding when you are full, you could add some extra weight if needed. You don't need a 6" lift, what you need is extended travel on the front end, it will give you height but more importantly it will improve the ride. Camberg and Chaos make very god extended travel kits. Instead of cutting fender why not replace with a fiberglass unit. HEY I just spent a grip of you cash, you can thanks me later.

 

[Voyager1500]

My first thoughts was 20" wheels are to big, 17" wheels with the right offset. you'll be able to air down better for those washboard roads. A set of progressive Leif springs would be my way, soft when you are empty and great riding when you are full, you could add some extra weight if needed. You don't need a 6" lift, what you need is extended travel on the front end, it will give you height but more importantly it will improve the ride. Camberg and Chaos make very god extended travel kits. Instead of cutting fender why not replace with a fiberglass unit. HEY I just spent a grip of you cash, you can thanks me later.

The 20" size wheels are factory on this truck, I did replace them with a wider version with a neg offset to widen the track without using spacers, which also contributes to the rubbing issues. The norcal mod is the cab not fender. the fenders seem to have enough clearance, but inside the fender, square fender, is the problem at the front of cab, back of fender well. I will check out Camberg and Chaos, have not seen those come up in searches yet. Thank you

 

[Voyager1500]

I’m not a big fan of lift kits, especially for the 1500’s with the IFS I think they’re more trouble than they’re worth, they mess up a lot of the suspension geometry, and not too many for IFS Chevy’s are designed for real off-road use.
I think a route worth considering would be getting some oem replacement coilovers, that’d get you the first 3” of lift. Then you could put the 3” bulge fiberglass fenders from FiberWerx on the front, and that’d let you run 37’s no problem. I have good friends down here running 37’s on 07-18 silverados with 4” spindle lifts, stock fenders, but 2wd (NorCal Mod)A 3” would work with fiberglass fenders, you’d retain 4wd, and more room for up travel. That’d get you close to the lift you’d get from a lift kit, it’d ride a whole lot better, and you’re retaining factory suspension geometry/reliability.

I’m also curious if you have any offset on your rims?

(Still writing option if you don’t want to remove stock fenders) but BDS is the best out of those three

(Edit: I think the fenders would still require the NorCal Mod since Chevy blessed us with square wheel wells, but I wouldn’t be so nervous about it, they can be done very professionally and clean, check out “454motorsports” on IG and click on their Chevy fender mod story highlight on their page)

Thank you for all that info. I saw those fiberwerx fenders and love them, but I would still have that rubbing issue with the cab. I will check out 454motorsports. In hindsight I would have liked to get more sidewall with smaller diameter rims, but I had 20's stock, needed tires and had not deceided what rims I wanted, so got new tires on the stock wheels. Pandemic hit and gave me time to deceide on wheels, so with like 3k miles on new tires I just got new wheels , still 20's. Poor planning on my part, but for now it's what I have. 4's spindle lift was something I looked at originally but due to frame cutting I stayed away from them, the kit i chose used new UCA's a strut spacer and rear blocks, so no performance gain other than now having bilstiens out back and some more clearance to still hit with 33's LOL. ohh and the ucas are tubular to replace those weak stamped steel ones. Thanks I will check this stuff out.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Minimum lift and trim the wheel wells. 17" rims so you have some sidewall. The truck will be much more capable. I can stuff 34's under my ZR2 with a trim and 1.5" lift, keeping the CG low really helps handling and ride off road.

 

[05EXCURSION]

I would recommend doing a solid axle swap. Less parts to break. The only way you will get away with tires not rubbing is trimming that seam. Jeeps have the same issue. But I guess it all depends on what kind of roads or trails you will be running. I would go with a smaller wheel size like mentioned before, gives you more side wall for side wall flex and a softer ride.

 

[MMc]

The 20" size wheels are factory on this truck, I did replace them with a wider version with a neg offset to widen the track without using spacers, which also contributes to the rubbing issues. The norcal mod is the cab not fender. the fenders seem to have enough clearance, but inside the fender, square fender, is the problem at the front of cab, back of fender well. I will check out Camberg and Chaos, have not seen those come up in searches yet. Thank you

Interesting Chevy says 17" tire is stock. Maybe I just don't understand. Why not increase the offset, giving clearance to the cab and widen the fenders?

 

[05EXCURSION]

The 20" size wheels are factory on this truck, I did replace them with a wider version with a neg offset to widen the track without using spacers, which also contributes to the rubbing issues. The norcal mod is the cab not fender. the fenders seem to have enough clearance, but inside the fender, square fender, is the problem at the front of cab, back of fender well. I will check out Camberg and Chaos, have not seen those come up in searches yet. Thank you

Interesting Chevy says 17" tire is stock. Maybe I just don't understand. Why not increase the offset, giving clearance to the cab and widen the fenders?

You going positive offset or negative? More negative offset will push the tires outside further causing more rub to the out side of the fenders. A positive will pull them in closer causing frame rub. If he goes with a wider tire a negative offset will keep the tire from rubbing suspension components.

 

[Shakes355]

Tire width and offset are the main culprit. Endless digital ink has been spent on the forums tracking down the largest tire diameter possible for X" of lift. But what they're actually trying to find is how wide can you go. Since most 33" and above come in 12.5's.

With stock offset wheels you can most likely fit 35x10.5's.

As for the NorCal mod, "structural" is a bit of a misnomer. Pinch weld damage is very common in the automotive world and since we're talking body-on-frame, there's very literally zero chance of any real problem arising from it.
Body shops cover up far worse on unibody cars regularly.

BDS makes the best kit from the ones you mentioned.

 

[NorCalRam]

Those wheels are screwing you for sure. I have 35" tires on 17" rims and a leveling kit for my Ram with no rubbing issues even while rock crawling. 7" lift is totally unnecessary and probably useless for what you are trying to do not to mention the super high center of gravity. Most of the lift kits just "lower" suspension components so no actual increase in articulation and you'd be surprised how much you can articulate stock. I can stuff my rear wheels all the way into the wheel wells.

 

[05EXCURSION]

Those wheels are screwing you for sure. I have 35" tires on 17" rims and a leveling kit for my Ram with no rubbing issues even while rock crawling. 7" lift is totally unnecessary and probably useless for what you are trying to do not to mention the super high center of gravity. Most of the lift kits just "lower" suspension components so no actual increase in articulation and you'd be surprised how much you can articulate stock. I can stuff my rear wheels all the way into the wheel wells.

I don't think up travel is his issue I think it's his turning radiys of his tires from rubbing that's the issue.

 

[tjZ06]

...how does the Chevy Trail Boss operate on 33's with essentially a level and block while you are having trouble with your truck on 33's with a 3.5 inch lift?

The short answer is backspacing. The OP *probably* has wheels with less back-spacing aka negative offset which push the wheels further "out" than stock. The result is the outside edge of the wheel/tire travel further reward/forward respectively when steering side to side. GM likes to put square wheel wells on their trucks (square hole, round peg?) so we always have challenges with tire clearance. For example, on my '11 2500 I'm running a 37x13.5 at ~6" of lift (about 6" front, ~2" rear that will soon be ~3" rear) and it took moving the front axle centerline forward a few inches, significant clearance cutting on the front bumper. At full flex the rear tire will just get into the front of the opening, but I'm hoping a little more rear lift will help.





Anyway, as to the OP's questions my $0.02: avoid low-quality lifts like Rough Country. Go with the nicest parts available, IFS lifts are inherently problematic so make sure you get the best stuff you can. And, consider a SAS. ;)

-TJ

 

[Deleted member 14476]

And, consider a SAS. ;)

-TJ

07-18 SAS group buy? Hahaha (unless you’re down, then I totally am)

 

[MMc]

You going positive offset or negative? More negative offset will push the tires outside further causing more rub to the out side of the fenders. A positive will pull them in closer causing frame rub. If he goes with a wider tire a negative offset will keep the tire from rubbing suspension components.

Thanks! my comment was cause of a brain was a Brain fart.

 

[tjZ06]

07-18 SAS group buy? Hahaha (unless you’re down, then I totally am)

Mine is a 2500, and already SAS'ed. ;) Going back to a Full Size for my Overlanding

-TJ