Budget Overland Solar Setup?

[Embark With Mark]

For the past few years I have been running my ARB Fridge off a single battery in my Jeep. Normally we can go for about two days comfortably before the Jeep needs to be started to recharge the battery. With a new long trip in the planning stages I decided it was time to add some solar power to my rig.

The first step was to cut apart my roof rack and weld it back together. I wanted a flat roof rack and while Garvin's adjustable bars are nice, they take away from the space of the rack and leave large gapes between each crossbar. My "redesign" places all the bars on the roof completely flat and changes the spacing of each bar from 9 inches to 3.5 inches. Giving me a lot more support for items on the roof and a lot more tie down points. Finally, no more balancing fire wood on one bar hopping the ratchet straps stop it from falling through the cracks.

Unlike other vehicles, I have to be very space and weight conscious. Being that my vehicle is a Jeep TJ we just do not have a lot of spare space to give up. So, with that in mind I had to build the system as compact as possible. A custom mount was built to mount both the solar controller and the 800 Watt Inverter. The solar panel is spaced on top of the rack with latches and hinges so that my 4 gallon Rotopax can be mounted underneath it.

This does two things, one it saves valuable roof rack space. Two Rotopax do not seem to like direct sunlight. So by placing the panel over them (with space for the Rotopax to expand) the fuel can is kept out of direct sunlight and somewhat protected.

What are your thoughts on this setup? Do you think a 100 watt solar panel is enough to power something like an ARB fridge?

Check out the final installation:

 

[Road]

For the past few years I have been running my ARB Fridge off a single battery in my Jeep. Normally we can go for about two days comfortably before the Jeep needs to be started to recharge the battery. With a new long trip in the planning stages I decided it was time to add some solar power to my rig.

What are your thoughts on this setup? Do you think a 100 watt solar panel is enough to power something like an ARB fridge?

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Is a 100w panel enough?

A lot depends on the efficiency of the panel and charge controller and how it's all set up. Gauge of wire and length of run, etc. AND if the panel can be angled or not, or even removed for optimum placement for maximum solar gain. If permanently mounted to your rack, a lot will depend on how often you are willing to camp in the sun as opposed to shade. It's a pain in the neck to keep moving your vehicle if camped for the day, especially if you have an awning and/or cook area, etc set up.

All panels are not equal, and a 100w panel from one vendor may be far different in efficiency than a 100w panel from another. In fact, may be far different within the same vendor from year to year as they source cells from different mfgs based on cost, not consistency of product.

Charge controllers are best mounted close to the battery.

Personally, I would not mount it directly ON the inverter. Thinking you will 'never' use the full power of the inverter usually doesn't end up that way, and at some point it will be fully taxed and most likely heat up more than you'd like.
If that is your only spot, I'd fab a bracket that creates space between inverter and charge controller to allow air movement. Even 1/2" will help prevent thermal transfer. It would not even have to be solid all the way across between the two, but two bars/bands, which would let the skin of both inverter and charge controller breathe even more and not be in direct contact with each other.

I've been using a 120w panel on the roof of my RTT and 100ah of deep cycles on my trailer for powering my fridge and other camp needs for several years. I won't depend on the starting batteries in my van for my fridge (unless under way) or depend on them for an inverter at all. Even though there are two, because it's diesel, I'm not going to deplete my starting batteries that far over and over.

My set up, completely independent of the starting system, has been plenty sufficient. Though depending on what else I might use the stored power for, like camera battery chargers and mobile device charging, etc, I find myself moving my panels about camp throughout the day, even in the desert with wide open skies. Even more, on up to 100' of 10awg cable extensions, if camping under forest canopy.

It's been successful enough I am replicating the same system; 120w folding panel which lives on the roof most of the time, with 100ah of deep cycle, on the van, so I can run the fridge and other items separately when away from the trailer and to also now have twice the capability of creating and storing power. Once you have solar and a good battery set up, you find more and more, like a good 12v fan, another 12v & USB outlet, a better inverter, etc that you want to have.

Hope you get yours worked out just the way you want and that it serves you well!

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[Embark With Mark]

So I've done a lot of thinking about this already. Before the solar panel I would just use the fridge on my main battery. Now what I found out is that we can run like this for about two and a half days before the jeep needs to be ran to recharge the battery. The fridge has a low voltage cut off set at 12.4 volts which is pretty low, but not completely dead. At least not low enough to the point that the battery is being hurt. So, with the panel I thought if this even extends our one spot stays out by one day, it would be nice.

I agree, that the solar charge controller should be mounted as close to the battery as possible. It's just not feasible in my rig with what I have currently. Now if I was able to get my hands on a waterproof charge controller that could handle being mounted outside the rig, then that would be a different story.

So, the inverter is a funny thing. We camp pretty light, and always have. Honestly, besides phones/GPS devices, the only gear that goes with us that needs to be charged is camera gear. So, while you are right I should not be assuming that I will never use it to its full ability, the chance is extremely low. However, someone commented on the video with the same idea to add a spacer... I literally can't believe I didn't think of this idea while putting it together lol! So, ill cut some nice little steel or aluminum spacers to raise that solar control off the inverter.

Sounds like you have a really nice setup. I would love to add a second battery to my jeep as a "house" battery and keep it separated from the starting battery. However, it takes a lot to make a second battery fit in a TJ. Some day I will do this though.

Like everything though, I think ideas and camp setups really have to be tested to see if they preform to our own needs. Its funny how not one camp setup is exactly the same, not even close. Its kind of cool really.

Thank you for adding your thoughts on this, maybe we will see each other on the trails one day!

 

[BPCLFD]

I am looking to setup my new Bronco with a simple one battery solar setup. Planning to use The Cascadia 4x4 VSS Hood System, when they come out with in later this year. so VSS hood panel to my single battery then run a 12v socket to rear of Bronco for my Domestic CFX3 35. I will only be using this single battery to start Bronco and run fridge, everything else I charge off of my power station, which I will charge with Bronco 12v while I drive around. Only looking to run fridge while parked, 99% of the time parked less than 12hrs and still have enough juice to start my vehicle. My question what size, type battery do I need to install to run this type of setup. Thank you in advance. Brian

 

[reaver]

I don't know about the effeciency of the dometic fridge, but my both my setpower and Massimo fridges only draw about 35W.

So, single 100W flexible panel would work just fine. Run it through an hqst or renogy 10A solar charge controller, and that should keep you from having to worry too much. I'd also make sure to use a dual purpose rv battery. These are designed to start/cycle, but aren't as good as a special deep cycle, and not nearly as good as a lifepo4 battery.

With a single battery, make sure you have a jump pack just in case. And make sure it's charged.

 

[BPCLFD]

I was planing to go with a Lifepo4 battery like a Dakota and the VSS setup comes with a 10A controller.. Thanks for you advice

 

[reaver]

I was planing to go with a Lifepo4 battery like a Dakota and the VSS setup comes with a 10A controller.. Thanks for you advice

Keep in mind that the lifepo4 house batteries are not designed to start an engine. You cannot replace your starter battery with a Dakota or battle born, or any of the other lifepo4 batteries unless you get one that is designed for high amp output, and those are not designed for long term current draw.

 

[BCMoto]

Jackery 500 along with thier solar panel is all yoou would need

 

[BPCLFD]

I was planing to go with a Lifepo4 battery like a Dakota and the VSS setup comes with a 10A controller.. Thanks for you advice

Keep in mind that the lifepo4 house batteries are not designed to start an engine. You cannot replace your starter battery with a Dakota or battle born, or any of the other lifepo4 batteries unless you get one that is designed for high amp output, and those are not designed for long term current draw.

Dakota DL+ 12V 135AH dual purpose 1000CCA starter battery plus deep cycle performance

 

[BPCLFD]

Jackery 500 along with thier solar panel is all yoou would need

That won’t work I know because that’s what I currently have

 

[reaver]

Dakota DL+ 12V 135AH dual purpose 1000CCA starter battery plus deep cycle performance

Well that's new....im not ashamed to admit when I'm wrong.

Dare I look to see how expensive it is...

 

[BPCLFD]

Dakota DL+ 12V 135AH dual purpose 1000CCA starter battery plus deep cycle performance

Well that's new....im not ashamed to admit when I'm wrong.

Dare I look to see how expensive it is...

Pretty sure it just came out and YES they are PROUD of the battery $1100

 

[reaver]

I mean, if you think about it though, that's not terrible. I paid 650 for my 100AH lifePO4 battery about a year ago. Mine has low temp cutoff, but no internal heater.

I also can't use mine to start the rig.

 

[BCMoto]

That won’t work I know because that’s what I currently have

Thats something different, I run a cfx45 off my jackery500 and use thier 100W solar panel and I havent had any issues. I charge it off the truck while on the road so when parked the jackery is fully charged. Then while at camp I use the solar panel to charge it and havent had an issue.

I also have a TJ so I know what space is for that hahaha

 

[BPCLFD]

I mean, if you think about it though, that's not terrible. I paid 650 for my 100AH lifePO4 battery about a year ago. Mine has low temp cutoff, but no internal heater.

I also can't use mine to start the rig.

yeah 7-10 year life, if you really get that kinda time frame out of it then yep it worth it.

 

[BPCLFD]

Just a thought, why not mount a solar panel under the rack on drawer slides?

While you are driving your alternator is provide the juice and when you are stopped camping the panel can be un latched and slid out. It wouldn't be that hard to do a sub-frame so the panel could be angled when deployed.

I am just not in one location long enough for deploable solar panels. normal day is get, up have coffee, head out and drive till around 1hr before sunset then find a camping spot, setup eat, shoot the shit around a fire, sleep and do it all again.

 

[BPCLFD]

Thats something different, I run a cfx45 off my jackery500 and use thier 100W solar panel and I havent had any issues. I charge it off the truck while on the road so when parked the jackery is fully charged. Then while at camp I use the solar panel to charge it and havent had an issue.

I also have a TJ so I know what space is for that hahaha

Last trip did something like that minus the solar panels " usually drive till almost dark before we stop for the night" wouldn't have much sun. Can't charge jackery and run fridge at the same time only one 12v socket. also the way the 12v socket cuts off power after 2hr, throw the low voltage on the fridge before it would switch over to the jackery. anyway thanks for the advice.

 

[Sparksalot]

Last trip did something like that minus the solar panels " usually drive till almost dark before we stop for the night" wouldn't have much sun. Can't charge jackery and run fridge at the same time only one 12v socket. also the way the 12v socket cuts off power after 2hr, throw the low voltage on the fridge before it would switch over to the jackery. anyway thanks for the advice.

Why not plug the fridge into the Jackery while you’re driving?

 

[reaver]

Why not plug the fridge into the Jackery while you’re driving?

Power stations work for ALOT of people. But not everyone.

For example, you can't wire an auxiliary electrical system to most of them. So running camp lights, fridge, water pump, etc off them is practically impossible.

Most of them turn off 12v ports after a period of inactivity. For example, I have 2 500w power stations from rockpals,but they're different models.

One will leave the DC port on until you turn it off, regardless of whether there is a draw or not. The other will turn it off after a period of no draw. This makes it difficult to run the fridge off of it. Mine are also regular lithium, and don't have a regulated 12v output (but there's a relatively cheap solution to this.

We also have two cpaps, etc that we need to run. Each 500w power station was about 500 bucks. Not wasted money, as I use them for charging things, and other various uses. I've also used them to power a light in the house during a blackout.

I've switched to using a 100Ah lifepo4 battery that gets moved between my Xterra and my trailer.

We get much more use out of the lifepo4, and it lasts longer than the two power stations.

 

[BPCLFD]

I appreciate the advice everyone but we are getting a little off topic. I am setting up a single battery, solar setup. I don't need advice on other options thats not what I am looking for here. Thanks tho