Budget Friendly Digital Photography (Cameras and Gear)

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Boort

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35mm prime, 18-55 kit lens, 70-300 kit lens. If I had The money to spend after and I wanted To do landscape probably get the 18-24 or 17-50.....for wildlife I’d go 200-500 Nikon. ...
What I use today:
For Nightscapes / Landscapes: my goto is the Nikon 14-24mm, followed by either the Rokinon 35mm MF or the Nikon 50mm f1.4 on a Panohead.

For Wildlife: I second @Nolamedic and vote for the Nikon 200-500 AFS (I've only used it once but it is on my shopping list), followed by the Nikon 80-400mm AFS (Not the first version it's focus was too slow for wildlife. make sure you find the AFS version.).

Of these goto lenses only the Rokinon was inexpensive and they are not so much anymore, not that they have a following.

My recommendations:
Since you are focusing on your bottom line I'd say:
Start with the kit 18-55mm, the 70-300. This covers a very wide range in just 2 lenses. If you are shooting groups of people or vistas, use the 18-55mm. If shooting wildlife, or portraits use the 70-300mm. If after a few months you find that you need more reach than the 300 can provide look at the 200-500. Understand that after accounting the DX body 1.4x crop factor the 70-300 has a reach similar to a 100-420mm on a full frame body. It's like having a built-in 1.4x teleconverter for shooting wildlife.

Save the money for the 3rd lens until you know what you need for what you want to shoot. IE:
  • For shooting wildlife or landscapes you'll be soon be looking at $300+ for a reasonable sturdy tripod. (craigslist can be your friend here)
  • If you get serious for landscapes you'll likely find that you would like a set of ND filters.
  • For shooting Nightscapes you will be looking for a wide angle prime with a maximum aperture # below f2.8 (This is why I got my all of my Rokinon lenses. Old MF Nikon glass can be found for a great deal for this.)

Boort
 
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Nolamedic

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@Slimpartywagon @KRose



What I use today:
For Nightscapes / Landscapes: my goto is the Nikon 14-24mm, followed by either the Rokinon 35mm MF or the Nikon 50mm f1.4 on a Panohead.

For Wildlife: I second @Nolamedic and vote for the Nikon 200-500 AFS (I've only used it once but it is on my shopping list), followed by the Nikon 80-400mm AFS (Not the first version it's focus was too slow for wildlife. make sure you find the AFS version.).

Of these goto lenses only the Rokinon was inexpensive and they are not so much anymore, not that they have a following.

My recommendations:
Since you are focusing on your bottom line I'd say:
Start with the kit 18-55mm, the 70-300. This covers a very wide range in just 2 lenses. If you are shooting groups of people or vistas, use the 18-55mm. If shooting wildlife, or portraits use the 70-300mm. If after a few months you find that you need more reach than the 300 can provide look at the 200-500. Understand that after accounting the DX body 1.4x crop factor the 70-300 has a reach similar to a 100-420mm on a full frame body. It's like having a built-in 1.4x teleconverter for shooting wildlife.

Save the money for the 3rd lens until you know what you need for what you want to shoot. IE:
  • For shooting wildlife or landscapes you'll be soon be looking at $300+ for a reasonable sturdy tripod. (craigslist can be your friend here)
  • If you get serious for landscapes you'll likely find that you would like a set of ND filters.
  • For shooting Nightscapes you will be looking for a wide angle prime with a maximum aperture # below f2.8 (This is why I got my all of my Rokinon lenses. Old MF Nikon glass can be found for a great deal for this.)

Boort
I found the 50mm, while probably great for a full frame, was too much zoom for a crop sensor. Hence my recommendation for the 35. Would you still select 50 with crop sensor?
 

Boort

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@Nolamedic

I found the 50mm, while probably great for a full frame, was too much zoom for a crop sensor. Hence my recommendation for the 35. Would you still select 50 with crop sensor?
I don't disagree that the 35mm would be better suited for a crop sensor over the 50mm as a first prime. I think that for someone starting out the pair of zooms and saving the coin for other accessories. At least it is what I wish I'd done.

It would depend on what I'm shooting. For Nightscapes / Landscapes it is often too telephoto even on the full frame. Thus the Pano head.
For me the only reason to go back to a crop sensor DSLR is if I start hanging out more with my photography friends who like to shoot birds. Then it would be to use the 200-500mm possibly with a 1.4x or 1.7x tele. Doubt my 50mm or 35mm would ever get mounted. :D


Boort
 

Road

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What I use today:
For Nightscapes / Landscapes: my goto is the Nikon 14-24mm, followed by either the Rokinon 35mm MF or the Nikon 50mm f1.4 on a Panohead.

For Wildlife: I second @Nolamedic and vote for the Nikon 200-500 AFS (I've only used it once but it is on my shopping list), followed by the Nikon 80-400mm AFS (Not the first version it's focus was too slow for wildlife. make sure you find the AFS version.).

Of these goto lenses only the Rokinon was inexpensive and they are not so much anymore, not that they have a following.

My recommendations:
Since you are focusing on your bottom line I'd say:
Start with the kit 18-55mm, the 70-300. This covers a very wide range in just 2 lenses. If you are shooting groups of people or vistas, use the 18-55mm. If shooting wildlife, or portraits use the 70-300mm. If after a few months you find that you need more reach than the 300 can provide look at the 200-500. Understand that after accounting the DX body 1.4x crop factor the 70-300 has a reach similar to a 100-420mm on a full frame body. It's like having a built-in 1.4x teleconverter for shooting wildlife.

Save the money for the 3rd lens until you know what you need for what you want to shoot. IE:
  • For shooting wildlife or landscapes you'll be soon be looking at $300+ for a reasonable sturdy tripod. (craigslist can be your friend here)
  • If you get serious for landscapes you'll likely find that you would like a set of ND filters.
  • For shooting Nightscapes you will be looking for a wide angle prime with a maximum aperture # below f2.8 (This is why I got my all of my Rokinon lenses. Old MF Nikon glass can be found for a great deal for this.)

Boort
.

I've got the Nikon AF-S 200-500 now and am wicked eager to get to using it on this next adventure.

Which pano head have you settled on?

.
 

Boort

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Which pano head have you settled on?
I have a couple. Picked up an original set of Syrp Genie minis as well as an early RRS pano kit. (Like the one pictured here https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/multi-row-pano I don't think they sell this type anymore.) I've had the RRS kit for many years and it is still my goto.

Picked up the Syrp Genie Minis last year from another photographer who was upgrading to the Mini II (Genie Mini II - Pan Tilt Kit) setup when they came out. Have not really used them because the original App was crap for multi row Panos and the new app does not run on the old android phone that I keep around.

Before getting the pano gear I shot them hand held using the paracord string technique that I talked about here: Photography

Boort
 
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Road

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@Road


I have a couple. Picked up an original set of Syrp Genie minis as well as an early RRS pano kit. (Like the one pictured here https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/multi-row-pano I don't think they sell this type anymore.) I've had the RRS kit for many years and it is still my goto.

Picked up the Syrp Genie Minis last year from another photographer who was upgrading to the Mini II (Genie Mini II - Pan Tilt Kit) setup when they came out. Have not really used them because the original App was crap for multi row Panos and the new app does not run on the old android phone that I keep around.

Before getting the pano gear I shot them hand held using the paracord string technique that I talked about here: Photography

Boort
.

Cool cool, thank you.

.
 
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Boort

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@KRose @Slimpartywagon
Adorama just posted a 1 Day Nikon sale on some of the equipment we have been discussing:

Nikon D7500 DSLR Body $896.95

Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E ED AF-S VR Zoom $1256.95
Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX NIKKOR $176.95

If you wanted to go full frame check out the deal on the D610 kits! :
Nikon D610 DSLR Bundle - w/50mm f/1.8G AF-S, MBD-14, WU-1b Wireless Adapter $896.95
Nikon D610 DSLR Camera with 50mm f/1.8G Lens and Free Accessory Kit $896.95

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M Rose

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@KRose @Slimpartywagon
Adorama just posted a 1 Day Nikon sale on some of the equipment we have been discussing:

Nikon D7500 DSLR Body $896.95

Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E ED AF-S VR Zoom $1256.95
Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX NIKKOR $176.95

If you wanted to go full frame check out the deal on the D610 kits! :
Nikon D610 DSLR Bundle - w/50mm f/1.8G AF-S, MBD-14, WU-1b Wireless Adapter $896.95
Nikon D610 DSLR Camera with 50mm f/1.8G Lens and Free Accessory Kit $896.95

Boort
Thanks for the information unfortunately we are waiting for my tax return check to arrive, but this opens our eyes to some other products as well
 

Boort

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Thanks for the information unfortunately we are waiting for my tax return check to arrive, but this opens our eyes to some other products as well
There will be more sales. Just gives you an idea for what Nikon is willing to accept on given equipment. Nikon USA is really good at keeping the market at the price point it wants so usually the cost for given gear is within a few dollars and the difference is made by what is included or the cash back program the seller offers.

The D610 is a slightly older model that compares favorably with the D7500 on most things. It's a baby brother to the 36MP D810 and was the entry level Nikon Full frame between the D700 untll the D750 came out. (The D600 was only out for a short time and had some mirror issues that the D610 was released to resolve.) Side by Side Comparison Nikon D7500 vs. Nikon D610: Digital Photography Review

For Landscapes I'd go for the D610 (Full frame better for wideangle shots) but for wildlife the D7500 (DX crop factor is better for telephoto and better image processor and AF system) would be the better bet.

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Nolamedic

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Hey guys, is this worth looking into?

I wouldn’t buy it for 1200. If it’s close I’d offer 800 in person and if he doesn’t take it walk away. My max would be 900. All but one of those are DX lenses. The 300mm(the only lens worth mentioning) is old. Eh, I dont Think I’d buy it at all. Also, thar camera won’t link directly to a phone for easy picture transfer
 

Nolamedic

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On second thought that ad is 29 days old. Offer him 600 but take 750 with you. You’d probably get it. Mention you can buy a new one on amazon for 650(in person. Not over text or email) and bring up the fact it doesn’t come with a warranty. Bet you can get it for cheap.
 
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franklyspeaking

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There has been some phenomenal advice shared in this thread. I would like to offer a different perspective though. If you stick with Canon, Nikon, Sony or Fujifilm, you aren't going to end up with a "bad" camera. They are all great and I would have given anything to be shooting with any of today's cameras in the early 2000's. Are some better? Sure! Is there any universal agreement on that? No way!

The buy once, cry once approach becomes increasingly difficult to employ when experience is limited. You don't know what you don't know and that's OK! I would actually advise the opposite, buy a base model dslr from Canon or Nikon as they are regularly offered with aggressive pricing at Sams, Costco, Wal-Mart, Amazon, B&H, Adoram, etc... Then just get out there and shoot. You'll start to learn what you feel is important for your type of shooting. Are you a natural light and primes kinda shooter? Are you the type of shooter that never travels without a bag of flashes and sync gear, umbrellas, etc... You don't know until you get into it and start to carve out what type of shooter you are. Then you can upgrade later once you know what is important to you and you start to feel like your gear is the limiting factor versus skill and your eye.

I've been shooting for over 35 years and have run Canon, Nikon, Fuji and Leica gear and I've rarely been in situations where I couldn't get the same or very similar shot from whatever I was shooting at the time versus my first student film pentax camera. Some cameras made it easier (some made it much harder) or quicker.

Lastly, if you're fairly confident that you'll leave your camera in auto and mostly take candids, a few landscapes and plan to post mainly to social media for memories and sharing with family, just get a good phone and call it done, it will save you a ton of money and most people won't notice or appreciate any discernible difference.

That's my take, YMMV.
 

Boort

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Hey guys, is this worth looking into?
I'd look into it. the kit here meets all of your stated needs.
Pros: (current eBay price range when sold alone)
  • D7100 - ($350-over $1k :flushed:WTF!!!!) as discussed above
  • Nikon DX AF-S NIKKOR 18-55mm - ($18-$80) as discussed above
  • Nikon DX AF-P NIKKOR 70-300mm - ($25- $300) similar to the 70-300 AF-S discussed above but slower to focus.
  • Nikon DX AF-S NIKKOR 35mm ($55-$280) & Nikon DX AF-S Micro NIKKOR 40mm ($125-$230) - Bonus Wide primes in the standard and mild telephoto range, either can be used for nightscapes (f1.8/f2.8), panos, etc...
  • Nikon ED AF NIKKOR 300mm - ($150-350) Yes this is older but it is a tank of a lens. IIRC this was discontinued around 2000 in favor of the AF-S version and there has been a VR version since then. for Wildlife it will be a bit slow to focus, but I think that on the D7500 it can take a 3rd party 1.4x Teleconverter which on the DX would make it about the same as a 500mm f5.6 lens on a full frame. Make sure the Pleather lens cap is included and in good condition they are like $30-40 to replace.
  • Speedlite and bag - ($35-$60) - Bonus
Cons:
  • Used
  • No warranty
  • Craiglist
  • No mention of batteries, SD cards, lens hoods, lens caps (I count 3 missing in the pics including the 300mm $40 one, rears appear to be there) Missing Flash port cap
  • Seller mentions doing video so Shutter count is not the best sign of wear for that usage. Expect to need to replace batteries sooner than later and the Nikon batts are like $60 Good 3rd party ~$35.
This gear (from the dimly lit pics) looks to be used and reasonably well cared for but not in pristine condition. So the kit is worth between $638 and $1967 on eBay depending on condition and if the seller saved the boxes for everything. Like @Nolamedic I'd lean towards the lower end of that spectrum. I'd probably offer $750 and walkaway at $850 based on what I see here.

Some tips from my buying on Craigslist:
  • Fungus visible in any lens I'd probably walk away from the lot (means the gear was stored in a humid environment- not good for glass or electronics)
  • Talk to the person on the phone not just email-text. Ask about the gear, any issues. How was it used. What did they enjoy about it.... feel them out... anything sound OFF ... walk.
  • Ask for a picture of the serial numbers for each piece taken by the D7500. More details at How to Not Buy Stolen Camera Gear and the Risks of Used Equipment Check them online
  • If you get this far and still have interest... call 3 of the Police Depts nearest the seller and ask if they have a Craigslist safe meeting place. If all come back no then ask if their lobby and grounds are monitored and if you can use it for a transaction. Offer these locations as options for the meet. If they are above board they will agree, otherwise walk.

Here are a couple of decent articles on what to look for if you go see the setup:

Boort
 
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M Rose

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There has been some phenomenal advice shared in this thread. I would like to offer a different perspective though. If you stick with Canon, Nikon, Sony or Fujifilm, you aren't going to end up with a "bad" camera. They are all great and I would have given anything to be shooting with any of today's cameras in the early 2000's. Are some better? Sure! Is there any universal agreement on that? No way!

The buy once, cry once approach becomes increasingly difficult to employ when experience is limited. You don't know what you don't know and that's OK! I would actually advise the opposite, buy a base model dslr from Canon or Nikon as they are regularly offered with aggressive pricing at Sams, Costco, Wal-Mart, Amazon, B&H, Adoram, etc... Then just get out there and shoot. You'll start to learn what you feel is important for your type of shooting. Are you a natural light and primes kinda shooter? Are you the type of shooter that never travels without a bag of flashes and sync gear, umbrellas, etc... You don't know until you get into it and start to carve out what type of shooter you are. Then you can upgrade later once you know what is important to you and you start to feel like your gear is the limiting factor versus skill and your eye.

I've been shooting for over 35 years and have run Canon, Nikon, Fuji and Leica gear and I've rarely been in situations where I couldn't get the same or very similar shot from whatever I was shooting at the time versus my first student film pentax camera. Some cameras made it easier (some made it much harder) or quicker.

Lastly, if you're fairly confident that you'll leave your camera in auto and mostly take candids, a few landscapes and plan to post mainly to social media for memories and sharing with family, just get a good phone and call it done, it will save you a ton of money and most people won't notice or appreciate any discernible difference.

That's my take, YMMV.
Great advice, all except for the last bit about the phone... we have iPhone XR’s, and while for shooting as you mentioned for posting on Social Media they work kinda, but for the shots we have been taking lately, they aren’t cutting it any more.
These pictures are examples of what we want a better camera for. The phone leaves out a lot of details. 52EBEE38-3E35-4EB3-874D-08603146804E.jpeg7E20F49F-4839-4860-A76D-15E7AABCB368.jpegEFFCE52A-11B2-4F48-B6B4-3EB4C457A68C.jpeg164754F5-674C-48CC-A2E0-F654E06D677E.jpeg9C4D55AB-02F0-4B04-BF9C-0BBA4165A781.jpegBBD2EDC7-8E88-49CC-8F4A-B40E63F6E3A4.jpegDD22ABDF-6B05-4531-8198-530F2DAAF757.jpeg8C174720-759C-4875-B5B0-5143CAB54E21.jpegFB2B9F02-63D5-48EB-B31F-96EF1FB514BB.jpeg9BFB9F9F-4DDF-4C51-8945-204EDCEAF3A9.jpeg
 
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1Louder

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iPhone 11 takes amazing night shots. Wide angle is nice too.
 
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Big G

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Great advice, all except for the last bit about the phone... we have iPhone XR’s, and while for shooting as you mentioned for posting on Social Media they work kinda, but for the shots we have been taking lately, they aren’t cutting it any more.
These pictures are examples of what we want a better camera for. The phone leaves out a lot of details. View attachment 139976View attachment 139977View attachment 139978View attachment 139979View attachment 139980View attachment 139981View attachment 139982View attachment 139983View attachment 139984View attachment 139985
Must be your neck of the woods. Is that you and your family in the first pic?
 

M Rose

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Must be your neck of the woods. Is that you and your family in the first pic?
This was on a trail I discovered about 10 minutes from my house. The guy on top of the rock is my oldest son, the girl on the right wearing crazy colored leggings is my step daughter, the other kids belong to an ex coworker. We used to take short trips up into the woods after work together. This was one of those trips.
 
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franklyspeaking

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Great advice, all except for the last bit about the phone... we have iPhone XR’s, and while for shooting as you mentioned for posting on Social Media they work kinda, but for the shots we have been taking lately, they aren’t cutting it any more.
These pictures are examples of what we want a better camera for. The phone leaves out a lot of details. View attachment 139976View attachment 139977View attachment 139978View attachment 139979View attachment 139980View attachment 139981View attachment 139982View attachment 139983View attachment 139984View attachment 139985
That's probably a fair observation. I've just known people that spend thousands on camera gear and all they do is post highly compressed images to facebook or instagram. It's like buying a really expensive sports car but never doing a track day and only doing city driving in it. I'm not saying that's what you're doing or that I think you're wrong looking for a nice camera, just making a general point of paying for functionality or performance that would be utilized.

Another piece of take it or leave it advice: I don't know if in your area you have access to any decent dedicated photography stores but in my area there are at least four brick and mortars that I know of that do rentals. It might be worth renting one for a weekend to try it out and see if you get the desired results.

Either way, good luck and I hope you find what you're looking for.
 
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