Bucket List: The Dempster Highway and Arctic Ocean

[Pith Dude]

I don't know that folks would call it an overland trip since I'll probably be staying in hotels (albeit 2-star), but I'm thinking the time has come to start considering checking a 40-year-old entry off my Bucket List.

Anybody driven the Dempster? Thought? Recommendations?

 

[Gabriel Bozeman]

I don't know folks would call it an overland trip since I'll probably be staying in hotels (albeit 2-star), but I'm thinking the time has come to start considering checking a 40-year-old entry off my Bucket List.

Anybody driven the Dempster? Thought? Recommendations?

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Looks like a ton of fun.

 

[Eric the Eric]

The views are jaw dropping. I would go again in a heart beat. The road can get pretty muddy in areas but is graded reasonably frequently. Fuel costs can get pretty ridiculous up there though. Even in the Yukon south area the prices are higher. There are many stretches with no refueling options so slips or Jerry cans are a must.
The actual highway is not too hard on vehicles per say though so you dont burn too much extra fuel compared to more serious terrain. If you have never been that far north you will find people operate on their own time and rarely in a huge hurry. I recommend embracing it and enjoying it.

 

[Razrrila99]

I don't know folks would call it an overland trip since I'll probably be staying in hotels (albeit 2-star), but I'm thinking the time has come to start considering checking a 40-year-old entry off my Bucket List.

Anybody driven the Dempster? Thought? Recommendations?

View attachment 96756

Thats going to be a fun trip. This is a trip that is on my bucket list too. I have watched a couple of YouTube series that have driven it.

Breadcrumbs to keep up with this thread!

 

[victhewanderer]

Yes, i did it last year. It was the first time they open the road from inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (Tuk) which is right on the coast. I saw all sorts of vehicles on that road. Even 5th wheels which i saw did have a lot of breakdowns ( from axles to windows breaking etc.) I did see a Honda civic as well. What i learned on this trip is to have good solid tires i believe a min of 8 ply was recommended for that roadd. I had 7 ply, and managed to have 2 punctured tires within a 10 min span on the way back. I have an instangram account victhewanderer if you like to see some pictures. One of the tires was a socket wrench (lucky 13) that had the open end puncture it. The road itself is not bad, it's just 650+ miles of dirt and gravel 1 way. Your vehicle will pick up a lot of dust and if it rains, you will have arctic mud on your vehicle that it's A LOT (sarcasm) of fun to get off. that stuff layers on thick. The Honda Civic that we saw had good sets of tires and did not have any puntures. Let me know if you have any specific questions. We managed to do it in a about 8 days. We took our time getting in and out stopping/sleeping along the route that was very remote and fun. Gas is pricey in Canada as you might be aware off. You don't want to drive that route fast i believe i averaged around 45mph.

 

[Terry Pickens]

Lifestyle Overland just finished an epic trip up there last year They did both the Dempster and Dalton. Check out their YouTube channel for lots of good information.
I'm doing the Dempster in August with 2 others, we are planning to be gone a month. Here is the link to my post here Alasaka Bound

 

[Pith Dude]

Terry, the Dalton was my first thought, but when they pushed the end of the Dempster all the way to the Arctic Ocean, that road won out. I wish had the time to do both.

 

[Pith Dude]

Vic, I was actually wondering if tire punctures would be the issue I’ve heard they were — I’ve multiple stories about that from “bring two spares” to “no problems at all”. I suppose if I need to get new tires for the trip I could that as an excuse to downgrade my Jeep’s wheels to the plain ol’ steel ones I’ve had my eye on...

 

[Terry Pickens]

Vic, I was actually wondering if tire punctures would be the issue I’ve heard they were — I’ve multiple stories about that from “bring two spares” to “no problems at all”. I suppose if I need to get new tires for the trip I could that as an excuse to downgrade my Jeep’s wheels to the plain ol’ steel ones I’ve had my eye on...

I’ve got a ARB plug kit just in case of any nails or screws in the road way. I’m running BFG AT 2’s and 1 full size spare. Mostly I’ve heard that 2 spares is a recommendation for RV’s. Not worried about blowout just puncture.

 

[Terry Pickens]

Terry, the Dalton was my first thought, but when they pushed the end of the Dempster all the way to the Arctic Ocean, that road won out. I wish had the time to do both.

I hear the Dempster is a nicer road scenery wise. Also I hear you cannot camp on the Arctic Ocean up the Dalton and you have to take a private shuttle to the ocean as it is on oil property. Looking forward to the first part of August to dip my feet into the Arctic Ocean.

 

[Eric the Eric]

Vic, I was actually wondering if tire punctures would be the issue I’ve heard they were — I’ve multiple stories about that from “bring two spares” to “no problems at all”. I suppose if I need to get new tires for the trip I could that as an excuse to downgrade my Jeep’s wheels to the plain ol’ steel ones I’ve had my eye on...

I didnt blow one. I was running wrangler duratracs though so not the run of the mill. I did see a few people changing tyres. I would say (fingers crossed) one spare high quality tyre and you are good.

 

[victhewanderer]

Vic, I was actually wondering if tire punctures would be the issue I’ve heard they were — I’ve multiple stories about that from “bring two spares” to “no problems at all”. I suppose if I need to get new tires for the trip I could that as an excuse to downgrade my Jeep’s wheels to the plain ol’ steel ones I’ve had my eye on...

I took 1 spare with me. I also had this tire repair kit which solved the first puncture tire repair kit quickly. (if you have not used one of these before make sure to see a video prior to your trip)

However, for the wrench that made its way in, that i needed to replace with the spare. There is a mechanic shop at Eagle plains of the demster highway ~ about 1/2 way (there's also a hotel/restaurant and RV car camping with hot showers for those RV ing/car camping). This is where i had the shop fix my wheel that had the wrench. The old timer (i think he was about 70+yo that fix it said this was his 2nd wrench that he had seen puncture a tire in 50 years of him working there). I think with good tires, a spare and a tire repair kit, you'll be fine. Passer bys do stop and help. I know i did for about 3 people. Although the road is remote, you will see vehicles and trucks on it. You'll have a great time.

here is a link to some of the pictures from that experience

 

[sgthusk]

On the bucket list! I stayed above the Arctic Circle in Norway when I was in the USMC, but to drive to the Arctic Ocean is truly the type trip that really defines adventure to me.

 

[victhewanderer]

I hear the Dempster is a nicer road scenery wise. Also I hear you cannot camp on the Arctic Ocean up the Dalton and you have to take a private shuttle to the ocean as it is on oil property. Looking forward to the first part of August to dip my feet into the Arctic Ocean.

That's also what i had heard, which is why we chose the Demster. You do cross the Peel and MacKenzie Rivers by Ferry for free. Cool experience.

 

[mep1811]

Last summer, my wife and I spent three months and 13K miles traveling Alaska and Canada in our 1985 FJ60. We drove the Dalton to Deadhorse/ Prudhow Bay.
(great hotel there) Then we drove the Dempster/ Inuvik/Tuk highway to Tuk.

TCT magazine has been publishing my articles with the first two parts available for reading. Part three will be in the next issue. Hope you enjoy the reading.

Our trip to Deadhorse AK in TCT Magazine

Part Two of Arctic Adventures in a Vintage Land Cruiser. TCT Magazine

The Milepost is a must have for this sort of trip . On the the other overlanding/travel forums there are multiple recent threads on the same topic.

 

[JL Lou]

Also on my bucket list...

 

[mep1811]

In Deadhorse people have been camping on the beach right before the town. We stayed at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse. . Very comfortable. It was time for us to shower and do laundry so the hotel stop was perfect. The tour to the water was interesting . It is all in my article in the link above. post.

 

[Migu]

Did this with my fiancee last September, what an amazing trip, would love to do again in a heartbeat. Yukon was definitely the best and most beautiful surprise.

Working from the top down:

• Make sure you do a dip in the Arctic Ocean! Note Tuk is not really tourist-ready per se, hopefully this year they'll be better but you won't find restaurants or hotels. Camping at the Tuk campground in town means being exposed to the ocean winds with no cover (unless you have RV/camper?). Treat it as a day trip from Inuvik and you'll have fun.
• Inuvik does have 2 hotels to stay at, everything closes early and most places aren't open Sundays so time accordingly. Make it a goal to stop by Alestine's for a meal!! https://m.facebook.com/alestines/
• Eagle Plains is sort of the defacto mid-way between Dawson and Inuvik. It's basically an outpost with a gas station, mechanic, diner, motel. There are also a couple gas stations on the Northwest Territories side (after the 2nd ferry).
• Make sure you check the ferries for the latest updates the day before and morning of, they/their landing sites break down and sometimes for more than a day.
• Explore around Dawson, lots of cool mining stuff (including Dredge No 4, tour is worth it), drive up to Dome Mountain in Dawson City for some wicked views, the paddlewheel graveyard is on the west side of the river, kind of hidden away on the beach, you will need to park and walk to it.
• Note Dawson has quite a few hotels, all of which are often packed with both tourists and workers so doesn't hurt to check availability a day or so before
• Don't forget to drive the Top of the World road from Dawson to the border (and if don't want to go to Alaska then just drive back), note this road is shut down around mid September.
• Stop into Carcross and check out the small downtown that is very well done in a native theme, with cute shops and historic train yards. Also see the Carcross desert!
• Check out Emerald Lake
• Bring a board with your names on it or something else unique to add to the Signpost Forest in Watson Lake

Feel free to message me for more specific questions, as you can see, I love sharing experiences and likely am not remembering everything I want to say at this time


On your question of tires, we ran General Grabber ATx, E rated, and brought 1 full size spare, never had any troubles and we were blowing through those gravel roads. Though keep in mind, they're pretty heavy duty tires. For comparison: I weighed the truck at a scale and we were at 6500lbs. We did speak to a couple folks that were there with rental cars and they did just fine so long as they drove very slowly and cautiously.

Edit: fyi we drove from Toronto, so can also answer questions about the route along the way

 

[Pith Dude]

Migu, awesome intel. Thanks!

 

[mep1811]

Here is a link to Part three of our Arctic Adventures . It takes us ,and you to Tuk. Parts' one and two are also linked if you missed them . Enjoy

Arctic Adventure in a Vintage Land Cruiser Part Three TCT Magazine