Thought I would post this here, because, why not. This is from about 3 weeks after we bought our Power Wagon. We had a friend get his 5th wheel stuck in sand near Lake Mead in Nevada. Then he got his Ford stuck in the sand. At the time, we were desperate to get him and his family out of the sand. Neither of us had a recovery strap. And I employed some improper technics to get him out. But how much can a Ram pull? See for yourself.
Now for some considerations.
1. Never tow with a winch line. When you introduce a quick, sudden load to a winch, that’s called a “shock load.” Imagine taking a piece of rope in both hands, then quickly pulling it taught - that’s a shock load. Shock loading is very stressful on a winch’s internals. Proper winching gradually places a load on the winch, which is how it is designed to be used. You should never use a winch rope for towing due to shock loading.
2. Always use a proper tow strap for towing. For those attempting a recovery with a strap, be sure to have the proper unit as well. Recovery ("snatch") straps will have a bit of elasticity to them that allow for that rubber-band effect that aids in recovery. Tow straps do not have that elasticity.
Polyester recovery straps stretch only about 2-3 % at full 100% tug, which is a predictable characteristic for a controlled pull. You can more easily predict how the strap will react under load, which means you can more easily prevent damage to the vehicles involved in the recovery. The downside of this characteristic is that the strap will jerk when the line becomes taut; the force of the jerk can damage frames, bumpers, and other tow points. It’s also safer at its limit because it doesn’t recoil – there’s nothing to snap back because it doesn’t stretch.
Nylon straps stretch like a rubber band (Hooke's Law). They are good to use when you need a running start, especially when traction is poor - for example, if you’re pulling a vehicle out of sand, mud, loose gravel, or snow and ice. They are also good to use when the vehicle making the recovery doesn’t have enough power to tug from a standstill. Nylon has give built into it and is not braided but bundled to allow stretch without twist. Its resilience permits the pulling vehicle to obtain momentum to aid in the tug. Of course, this means "stored energy" and if it breaks, some risk. If and when the strap does break, it can damage vehicles or injure bystanders.
3. Never tow in reverse. This is less of a safety issue, and more of a "don't break your vehicle" consideration. Your 4WD transfer case is not as strong in reverse as it is in first, or second gear. If it is possible, turn your vehicle around and recover the stuck 4WD going forwards. Another weak link are your pinions and ring gears in the differentials - recall their design and how they are cut? They are designed for severe load conditions going forwards, not reverse, and because of that design are subject to slippage, breakage, and failure. Avoid becoming a casualty and contributing to the problem.
I know perfect recovery situations aren't always possible, but bear these weaknesses in mind and you won't be up for a new gearbox. Or worse, a candidate for a Darwin Award.
Now for some considerations.
1. Never tow with a winch line. When you introduce a quick, sudden load to a winch, that’s called a “shock load.” Imagine taking a piece of rope in both hands, then quickly pulling it taught - that’s a shock load. Shock loading is very stressful on a winch’s internals. Proper winching gradually places a load on the winch, which is how it is designed to be used. You should never use a winch rope for towing due to shock loading.
2. Always use a proper tow strap for towing. For those attempting a recovery with a strap, be sure to have the proper unit as well. Recovery ("snatch") straps will have a bit of elasticity to them that allow for that rubber-band effect that aids in recovery. Tow straps do not have that elasticity.
Polyester recovery straps stretch only about 2-3 % at full 100% tug, which is a predictable characteristic for a controlled pull. You can more easily predict how the strap will react under load, which means you can more easily prevent damage to the vehicles involved in the recovery. The downside of this characteristic is that the strap will jerk when the line becomes taut; the force of the jerk can damage frames, bumpers, and other tow points. It’s also safer at its limit because it doesn’t recoil – there’s nothing to snap back because it doesn’t stretch.
Nylon straps stretch like a rubber band (Hooke's Law). They are good to use when you need a running start, especially when traction is poor - for example, if you’re pulling a vehicle out of sand, mud, loose gravel, or snow and ice. They are also good to use when the vehicle making the recovery doesn’t have enough power to tug from a standstill. Nylon has give built into it and is not braided but bundled to allow stretch without twist. Its resilience permits the pulling vehicle to obtain momentum to aid in the tug. Of course, this means "stored energy" and if it breaks, some risk. If and when the strap does break, it can damage vehicles or injure bystanders.
3. Never tow in reverse. This is less of a safety issue, and more of a "don't break your vehicle" consideration. Your 4WD transfer case is not as strong in reverse as it is in first, or second gear. If it is possible, turn your vehicle around and recover the stuck 4WD going forwards. Another weak link are your pinions and ring gears in the differentials - recall their design and how they are cut? They are designed for severe load conditions going forwards, not reverse, and because of that design are subject to slippage, breakage, and failure. Avoid becoming a casualty and contributing to the problem.
I know perfect recovery situations aren't always possible, but bear these weaknesses in mind and you won't be up for a new gearbox. Or worse, a candidate for a Darwin Award.
