Member II
Big Tuna Presents: Pegasus Rising
- Thread starter BigTuna117
- Start date
Member II
So, not too long ago, I picked up these super beefy motor mounts from IronMan4x4Fab:
They'll go on Wednesday. I'm pretty excited to get rid of the saggy OEM ones.
In other news, I appear to have blown one of the "connector" fuses on the dual battery system. Replacements are incoming, but I'm guessing it probably shorted the last time I had it in the shop. I will investigate more tomorrow.
The Jeep also got a fresh new transmission pan, given the old one got dinged in my recent transfer case mishap. While I was at it I saw fit to replace the filters, and it now has an actual gasket. If I ever have to drop the pan again, it will be much easier, as the new pan has a drain plug. no more ludicrous covering myself with ATF!
They'll go on Wednesday. I'm pretty excited to get rid of the saggy OEM ones.
In other news, I appear to have blown one of the "connector" fuses on the dual battery system. Replacements are incoming, but I'm guessing it probably shorted the last time I had it in the shop. I will investigate more tomorrow.
The Jeep also got a fresh new transmission pan, given the old one got dinged in my recent transfer case mishap. While I was at it I saw fit to replace the filters, and it now has an actual gasket. If I ever have to drop the pan again, it will be much easier, as the new pan has a drain plug. no more ludicrous covering myself with ATF!
Member II
Well, been a couple of days with the new mounts on. It makes a bit of difference, as the old mounts were snapped and completely worn down. the engine "jitter" that I've come to know is completely gone now. The new mounts are pretty firm, so there are some vibes felt, but only really noticeable so far around 2K RPMs. Once you hit 2200, it settles back down. Very manageable.
With any luck, that should be the last set of rubber bushings I need to replace for a while. The A-Arm still has some life left in it, so now I can get on to other projects that I've been planning for a better part of the last year!
With any luck, that should be the last set of rubber bushings I need to replace for a while. The A-Arm still has some life left in it, so now I can get on to other projects that I've been planning for a better part of the last year!
Member II
I came across a curious problem today and promptly fixed it.
Back when I installed the upper control arms and the new axle bushings, I had to buy my own hardware. Not too long ago, Core 4x4 started offering a hardware packet in their kits as an extra. I contacted them and had them send me out new nuts/bolts/washers for the upper control arm/axle bushing connection. I found that the old hardware I had previously installed was bent up and probably not useable anymore. Turns out, I made the rookie mistake of using 8.8 (equivalent to Grade 5 in SAE) hardware in their previously.
D'oh!
The good news is that the new hardware is much sturdier, being a 10.5 set (Equivalent to Grade 8or 10, or automotive grade). We shouldn't have any more issues from down there.
Back when I installed the upper control arms and the new axle bushings, I had to buy my own hardware. Not too long ago, Core 4x4 started offering a hardware packet in their kits as an extra. I contacted them and had them send me out new nuts/bolts/washers for the upper control arm/axle bushing connection. I found that the old hardware I had previously installed was bent up and probably not useable anymore. Turns out, I made the rookie mistake of using 8.8 (equivalent to Grade 5 in SAE) hardware in their previously.
D'oh!
The good news is that the new hardware is much sturdier, being a 10.5 set (Equivalent to Grade 8or 10, or automotive grade). We shouldn't have any more issues from down there.
Member II
So, today I finished extending the breathers for the diffs, Transfer case, and Transmission. Although I have no plans to really submerge the jeep, a little piece of mind is worth the $0.69 a foot for tubing. The 545RFE and its variant on the V8 have a dinky little breather which just dangles across the top of the transmission, so moving it up was a must. The transfer case and front diff were both lengthed moderately from the factory, but I extended them up to meet the other two. I relocated the rear diff breather to run to the front, as I had enough breather hose to do so, and the oem hose was stretched and wrecked anyways. Eventually, I'll pair all 4 breathers into a filter kit, such as ARB's Universal Breather filter.
Eventually, I'm gonna snorkel the old girl. Not so much because of water, but because the dust factor out here has such an impact on filter life, and many African expedition vehicles are equipped with them for just that reason. By moving your intake up, you supposedly take in less dust, at least that's the hope. And with extended breathers, if I ever do need to so a "moderate submerge" I don't need to worry about the transmission turning into a strawberry milkshake dispenser.
Eventually, I'm gonna snorkel the old girl. Not so much because of water, but because the dust factor out here has such an impact on filter life, and many African expedition vehicles are equipped with them for just that reason. By moving your intake up, you supposedly take in less dust, at least that's the hope. And with extended breathers, if I ever do need to so a "moderate submerge" I don't need to worry about the transmission turning into a strawberry milkshake dispenser.
I put the ARB breather system in my jeep and a word of advise, don't use the lines they supply. They r crap. They don't flex and I caught one when out off-roading and it touched my exhaust and melted off. I replaced the lines with fuel line and it's much better, tougher.So, today I finished extending the breathers for the diffs, Transfer case, and Transmission. Although I have no plans to really submerge the jeep, a little piece of mind is worth the $0.69 a foot for tubing. The 545RFE and its variant on the V8 have a dinky little breather which just dangles across the top of the transmission, so moving it up was a must. The transfer case and front diff were both lengthed moderately from the factory, but I extended them up to meet the other two. I relocated the rear diff breather to run to the front, as I had enough breather hose to do so, and the oem hose was stretched and wrecked anyways. Eventually, I'll pair all 4 breathers into a filter kit, such as ARB's Universal Breather filter.
Eventually, I'm gonna snorkel the old girl. Not so much because of water, but because the dust factor out here has such an impact on filter life, and many African expedition vehicles are equipped with them for just that reason. By moving your intake up, you supposedly take in less dust, at least that's the hope. And with extended breathers, if I ever do need to so a "moderate submerge" I don't need to worry about the transmission turning into a strawberry milkshake dispenser.
Member II
Thank you for the word of advice. I extended the Transmission and both differential breathers to the same place, the far driver side corner of the engine bay. When the time comes, I have enough line left over to extend the extension of the Transfer case to that side as well (it goes to the far passenger side of the engine bay, as that's where it came up at).
Member II
So would a chocolate blizzard be a gear oil milkshake, y'know, since it's super thick? and a normal chocolate milkshake for normal oil? hahaha
Member II
PREPARE FOR SOME ZJ SNORKEL ON WJ ACTION!
With all of the people doing this mod, I decided that I could allow myself to spend $130 on an ebay ZJ snorkel to work with. My thoughts on the snorkel are:
With all of the people doing this mod, I decided that I could allow myself to spend $130 on an ebay ZJ snorkel to work with. My thoughts on the snorkel are:
- It feels very well made.
- it should match the lines of the WJ pretty closely.
- the a-pillar bracket will likely require modification to be used on the WJ. On a ZJ, this rivets into the A-Pillar between the windshield mount and the door seal. On the WJ, there is a gutter "bracket" that the door seal connects to here. The easiest way to make it work will likely be to connect it to that rather than the actual a-pillar.
- the inner duct will not be used, it is too long and fat for the WJ.
- The inner fender will require slight modification. I'll probably mount the snorkel on the outer fender, and then unbolt the entire outer fender from the uniframe. Inner fender reinforcement may be necessary. We'll see.
- it looks identical to the ARB/Safari ZJ snorkel, minus the ARB/Safari logo. That area is just flat textured plastic like the rest of the snorkel.
- It will cover up the ASUS in PEGASUS on one side, I'll have to order an inverted color sticker (white) to go on the snorkel.
- All of the hardware appears to be high quality, stainless steel. I am surprised with this, and this was my biggest concern regarding the ebay snorkel.
- The outlet hole on the snorkel is 4". My solution to this is a tight 90 degree 4" to 3" reducer elbow.
- I'll be using a heavy-duty PVC pipe between the inner and outer fenders. With rocks and gunk hitting it, I'm afraid that aluminum or cheaper plastic parts will tear or shatter.
Member II
So, the snorkel installation is done! All and all, it was pretty straightforward. Of course, there was some modification necessary in order to run the plumbing, but, I'll go over that here in a few.
Aside from drilling holes and making sure you use the appropriate size hole saw, the installation of the actual snorkel is pretty straightforward. It sits really solid on the fender, and holds the lines fairly well.
Next, I had to remove the outer fender (I actually removed it before mounting the snorkel) in order to trim the inner fender and cut the other hole for the intake. Dropping the front outers on a WJ are very straightforward. A 5 minute job.
Next I had to determine where to cut.
It was really more time consuming fitting everything to make sure I cut in the right place than making the actual cuts.
After putting the fender back on, I could fit the 4" to 3" reduction elbow to finish the plumbing. Piece of cake!
I was weary of using the Spectre 3" flex tubing, but found that it should be thick enough to actually take any punishment headed it's way. I do need to reposition that clamp, though. I also sealed the ends of the flex tubing with Black RTV Silicone, too.
With everything plumbed correctly, it was onto the next challenge- Correctly seating the A-pillar mount. In order to do this, I ended up re-purposing the piece of metal used to cover the stock airbox hole, bent it, got some hardware, and made an adapter to correctly bolt the snorkel to the a-pillar.
This also pulls back on the snorkel just enough to keep is from moving. It does stit just a bit more forward than most, but it's seated well and doesn't obscure the view, so I think I can live with it. yes, it is visible from the Driver's seat, but not much. no complaints.
Aside from drilling holes and making sure you use the appropriate size hole saw, the installation of the actual snorkel is pretty straightforward. It sits really solid on the fender, and holds the lines fairly well.
Next, I had to remove the outer fender (I actually removed it before mounting the snorkel) in order to trim the inner fender and cut the other hole for the intake. Dropping the front outers on a WJ are very straightforward. A 5 minute job.
Next I had to determine where to cut.
It was really more time consuming fitting everything to make sure I cut in the right place than making the actual cuts.
After putting the fender back on, I could fit the 4" to 3" reduction elbow to finish the plumbing. Piece of cake!
I was weary of using the Spectre 3" flex tubing, but found that it should be thick enough to actually take any punishment headed it's way. I do need to reposition that clamp, though. I also sealed the ends of the flex tubing with Black RTV Silicone, too.
With everything plumbed correctly, it was onto the next challenge- Correctly seating the A-pillar mount. In order to do this, I ended up re-purposing the piece of metal used to cover the stock airbox hole, bent it, got some hardware, and made an adapter to correctly bolt the snorkel to the a-pillar.
This also pulls back on the snorkel just enough to keep is from moving. It does stit just a bit more forward than most, but it's seated well and doesn't obscure the view, so I think I can live with it. yes, it is visible from the Driver's seat, but not much. no complaints.
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Member II
Last weekend I had the opportunity to run Sleeping Princess with the Bullhead 4 Wheelers!
No major problems, however the transfer case linkage is a wee bit loose, so I was continually popping out of 4lo. D'oh!
No major problems, however the transfer case linkage is a wee bit loose, so I was continually popping out of 4lo. D'oh!
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Off-Road Ranger I
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Advocate II
Hey Wj firefly I was having the same issue before and I hit Michael up on message and he told me to clear the cache on the setting and plus he was working on the site. Try clearing your cache on the setting and if that don't work hit him up and he will take care of it. [emoji106]
Off-Road Ranger I
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OK. Deleted cache and cookies. Had to re-logon. Still can't see or open your pics. Red X over each one.
Off-Road Ranger I
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BTW, How's the Rig? I am having an issue with the rear axle. Gonna take a look at it tomorrow. Still drivable, just making some intermittent noise and side swings....
Advocate II
I would hit up Michael then, I think he said something like all the cleaning that they were doing to the site was probably making the pics not visible. Hope you get it fixed. [emoji106]
Off-Road Ranger I
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C
Thanks!
Can you now see Pegasus Pics? If so then I agree the problem is probably on my end...
Thanks!
Advocate II
Off-Road Ranger I
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