2015 JKURHR Build

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After changing back to the hard top, which will most likely be permanent due to my overland build, it was time to start the rear components. That means adding a lockable storage, a gas stove and a fridge / freezer. But I wanted to keep the "no drill" theme going so I needed to cutout a base to mount all of that stuff to. I also wanted the ability to easily remove all of it should I ever want to keep that daily driver image.

I took the OEM JK rear mat which creates a perfect template for tracing, complete with the oval cutout for the factory Alpine subwoofer and rear tie down points. On a 1 inch piece of plywood I traced the mat and holes and then set the components to be mounted on top and traced their footprint along with places to drill holes. A full fridge can garner some serious weight and extending the gas stove beyond that with a griddle or pots and pans adds even more, so this base had to be solid.



You can see the square overlap outside of the OEM mat coverage. I determined that it was small enough and in areas that didn't need support that I would stick to the mat outline.


Then a test fit just to make sure before locking everything down. Even with the subwoofer covered up, the cutout and the factory recessed mount allow full sound to come through and luckily none of the hardware holes lined up on top of it.



I used self tapping carriage bolt anchors on the underside to create a solid grab that wouldn't wear down each time I installed / uninstalled. I was going to use boat carpet to cover the mounting base but decided to flip the OEM JK cargo mat over so that the rubberized side was up and created a vibration mat and I bolted everything directly through it down through the base. (sorry for not taking pics of that but I was on a roll!)

Here's the finished product after adding some black touch up paint to blend everything for a cleaner look. The tailgate table is the Trailgater from Rebel Offroad. The plan is to mount a small 5 pound propane tank on the roll bar for the stove. I did test it with a normal 25 pound take prior to installation and wow, that thing can heat!


With the current dual battery setup under the hood, I can run the fridge at 32 degrees F for about 3.5 days before having to start the JK. The thermal blanket makes a world of difference. The fridge / freezer has a wireless antenna that sends the status to the driver seat monitor mounted on the A-Pillar. (it's off here, but it lights up blue with the temp and indicates if the compressor is running or not. )




I'm looking to add a water filtration system and a few other things that will tax the power supply a little more, so next up is solar assist, a larger deep cycle battery bank, and the ability to actually plug into the grid to charge it all. As time permits, of course. Then a Road Shower, roof top tent and a few other things. That should weigh me down pretty well, so it will likely be lift time.
 
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First State Overland

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Well, CVT had a sale on their roof top tents, so I might as well strike while the iron is hot, even though the RTT wasn't in the plan until next spring. Ordered a Mt. Shasta model with the skylights. Some unboxing and assembly photos. Not on the Jeep yet, waiting for a pulley to complete my easy on/off setup because I still park the Jeep in the garage.

Taking all the cardboard off, opening the tent because all of the hardware and annex materials are shipped inside. You have to bolt the mounting rails on one side and ladder on the other. It's very easy even for one person.



Tent up and open on the floor. Checking for damage and attaching the bungie cords inside to help side material baffling during close. The mattress seemed pretty comfortable as is. Throw a sleeping bag on there and I can picture passing out on this thing.



I'm glad I optioned for the sky lights. I foresee lots of starry nights in my future. The rain fly also has windows to accommodate for the skylights.



And all of that folds up so nice into a tight little travel cover, which happens to match my black JK.



If I can get a free weekend, I'll post shots with my pulley method of putting this thing on the roof solo and then hopefully from a campsite. Stay tuned.
 
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First State Overland

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Awesome looking rig. You've done so much with it, any idea what it weighs rolling down the road?
Thanks! I would only be able to guess based on individual parts...

Gobi stealth Rack with inserts and ladders - ~175lbs
Roof top tent - 150lbs
Fridge / stove / rails / drawer / base - ~100lbs
Winch - 80lbs
Dual battery tray and dual batterys - 110lbs
Misc lights, compressor, security boxes, etc - 50lbs

So you're looking about 665lbs above and beyond what a stock Rubicon Hard Rock weighs. I'm probably looking at a small 2.5" lift in the near future.
 

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Another short update: So here's the latest toy on the Project Overland build out - the Bluetooth module for the sPOD SE that allows for remote control of all exterior lighting and powered accessories from my iPhone. The intent behind this is with the roof top tent on the Jeep, should I need to light up the vicinity in the middle of the night due to a strange noise or something, I can do it from inside my tent in a 360 degree pattern around the camp. The last noise is the on board air compressor power.

 

hammerheadjk

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Another short update: So here's the latest toy on the Project Overland build out - the Bluetooth module for the sPOD SE that allows for remote control of all exterior lighting and powered accessories from my iPhone. The intent behind this is with the roof top tent on the Jeep, should I need to light up the vicinity in the middle of the night due to a strange noise or something, I can do it from inside my tent in a 360 degree pattern around the camp. The last noise is the on board air compressor power.

Great setup! I've been following along for about a month now since discovering this thread. Any details on how you ran your wires to the sPod from the roof rack lighting?
 

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Great setup! I've been following along for about a month now since discovering this thread. Any details on how you ran your wires to the sPod from the roof rack lighting?
Thanks. For the rack lights, from the sPod box, wires are covered in the black flexible wire covering/insulator, and run rearward to the wiper cowl and up next to the A-pillar LED like you can see below. The closest wire is running to the A-pillar light (obviously), the corrugated black wire loom is housing the sides and the rear LED wires (pos and neg) which of the sides are separated so I could control each side independently. The other thick black wire in the back is the harness for the 48" light bar. I didn't want to run it separately, but I did for two reasons, 1) it's much more massive than even the others combined, 2) the other lights/wires are on the back half of the Gobi rack which will need to disconnect easily and repeatedly so that the rack can lean back to put the top up/down or replace hard / soft tops whereas the light bar is on the front part of the rack and never moves.


Here you can see the back of the A-pillar light. The key to hiding the wires was tight zip ties together as they run up to the front Gobi support brace. There's a small gap between the brace and the Jeep so this wire bundle was zipped together and then close to the back side of the bar.



Here's the back of the Gobi brace running up to the top. It looks much more "clunky" and amatuer than it really is - especially with the flash, but everything being black from a foot away you don't even notice them running up the inside of the brace.



Then at the top of the Gobi rank where it separates front from back I used a weather proof 4 line connector. The light bar loom stays with the front brace and runs into the light bar and the rear lights run through the connector and then zip tied to the inside of the Gobi bars to their respective lights. Everything is covered in the corrugated plastic so it all blends in with the rack. Hope that helps. My only alternative was to run it up through the front brace and drill an exit hole. This was easier, blends well, and I can add / service lights without feeding things up and down through the brace if I want.



Here's a shot cleaned up parked in a row at a Jeep event. You can't even see the lines running from a few feet away, but you can see some of the black zip ties if you look hard. (I'm closest to the front.)

 
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timberwolf_120

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Wow man this is an amazing read!!! Excellent build keep up the good work. Also have to piggy back what @jordanbrooks said about the wjs and lack of "bolt on" stuff haha.
That wireless spod set up is freaking sweet tho!!! Wish I had 800 bucks, I just opted for the universal 6 switch one lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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Added a Rugged Ridge Hi-lift jack mount to the back. Nice and secure and solid, but a pain in the ass to install. Also have some Teraflex Rotopax jack mounts that will let me attach Rotopax directly to the hi-lift jack. Not putting those on until the next trip.

Next project is NOCO power for the trickle charger and land line power. Perhaps this weekend.

 

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First camping trip of the season was a huge success. Tent power through the SPOD ran LED lights in the tent as well as charged the cell phones. It was beautiful out so we chose not to put the screen room around the awning. Both the slide out grill and fridge performed flawlessly. The mattress in the tent was OK, but we may toss an air mattress up there too just for a little extra padding. We must have had 25-30 people drive/walk by and take pictures. Already packing for the next trip this weekend! That site will have power so I need to finish the land power / battery charger tie in project this week. Pics from that soon.




 

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Here's a shot from inside the tent. If you look at the far support post, you can see the LED light strip which I've run the USB power line down to the side where it it meets to the switch (not shown). There is an identical light strip on the bar on the opposite end too. I love walking back to the campsite at dusk/night, whipping out my phone and turning the lights on to my "house". :)

 
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