2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build

[tjZ06]

I posted a longer version here: New Member, '03 WJ JGC from Lincoln, CA

But for the build section I'll try to keep this a bit shorter...

2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, 4.7HO, QuadaDrive. Current Status:

• Iron Rock Offroad ROCK-LINK 4" Front Long-Arm (with Bilstein 5100s, Adjustable High-Clearance Front Arms, upgraded Track Bar Flex Joint and JKS Quicker Disconnects)
• Iron Rock Offroad High Clearance HD Crossmember
• Iron Rock Offroad WJ Transfer Case/Catalytic Converter Skid (w/ spacer to accommodate 1" T-Case Drop)
• Iron Rock Offroad Stainless Steel Brake Lines
• Addco Rear Sway Bar
• Kevin's Offroad Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Rock Sliders
• Kevin's Offroad Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Over the Knuckle Tie Rod Kit
• Tenneco HD Steering Stabalizer from Iron Rock
• Pro Comp Series 7032 (16x8, 5x5, 4.5BS)
• Goodyear Duratrac (265/75-16)

Next phase (hopefully completing winter '19/20):

• Notch Customs W-Max Fender Flares to allow more tire at this same lift height, I do not want a super-tall, high-CG rig
• Something around a 33" tire (305/70-16 which is roughly 32.8x12" is most likely, but perhaps a "true" 33x12.5)
• Sleeve, gusset, chromoly axle shafts with an ARB and re-gear (probably 4.88) the front Dana 30
  • This is a place I've had much internal debate, the old rock-crawler/hardcore wheeler in me says any $ spent on a D30 is money wasted. However, for Overland use and if I don't get ridiculous with the throttle in tight situations a well-built D30 will be more than strong enough while retaining more ground clearance, lower weight, etc.
• Gusset, chromoly axle shafts with an ARB and re-gear (again, 4.88) the rear D44HD (aka aluminum center section D44, hence wanting a tube-to-tube gusset)
• Replace my 247 QuadraDrive full-time 4wd T-Case with a Part-Time 242HD (which offers 2WD, 4H full-time, 4H part-time, N, 4L)
  • Slip Yoke Eliminator
  • Full rebuild with all new bearings, bushings, seals and chain
• Custom Tow Woods double-double cardan driveshafts
• Front, rear and center frame stiffiners from Iron Rock Offroad and Trail Forged - this WJ was clearly never wheeled before me, and is clean, straight and tight with no rattles, squeaks, leaks etc. As most of you know, the WJ is a unibody so if I want to keep it this way, it needs a little help
• Fuel Tank "Tuck" - the WJ was the first Jeep SUV that didn't have the spare tire inside the vehicle. As such, there is a spare tire-well in the back, which means the fuel tank has to sit below that. The end result is a really low fuel tank which is susceptible to all sorts of trail damage (see the pics above for how low the stock tank hangs). Since I'll be running a spare outside I can eliminate the spare-tub, patch the Jeep's floor and raise the fuel tank a solid 8"+ while keeping the interior of the Jeep fully sealed and looking exactly the same
• Aftermarket front bumper w/ winch
• Aftermarket rear bumper w/ tire-carrier (see lesson #1 above, and I don't want to put a 33" spare inside and lose all of that storage space)
• Roof-Top-Tent!! Since the WJ's roof is actually pretty small as compared to newer things like JK Unlimiteds, Land Cruisers, or even 4Runners I want something with a small, slim profile. Also, nearly all of my wheeling/camping is in the woods, so I don't want something too obnoxious that will catch every tree branch I even think about going under. Unfortunately, this rules out hard-shell RTTs, which were my first choice for simplicity. On the WJ they look like a mushroom-cap, and while looks aren't everything they would significantly reduce clearance when squeezing through trees etc. Right now I have my eye on a Tepui Low Pro 2 if I buy new, though I miiiiight have a line on a used Ayer 2 which is still relatively compact, and would help my (already hurting) budget a lot.
• Fridge and second battery
  • Admittedly I'm a bit on the fence on this one. I think an ice chest is generally fine, but I do recognize there is probably a reason that EVERY Overlander eventually goes with a fridge/freezer
• Finally, I will probably convert the rear suspension to a long-arm. It's not that I'm really hurting for wheel travel or articulation, but this will allow me to move the rear axle back .5-1" (and I will move the front about the same) to help with tire clearance

Thoughts? Advice? Any WJ owners with experience with a RTT on the stock roof rails? I just picked up my 242HD today, now to tear into it:

Thanks,
TJ

 

[Disco Patrol]

I just picked up my first WJ. It'll be nice to follow yours as you work on it.

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

I have yet to find anything definitive with the stock rails and RTT's. The cross rails from the factory are junk, so I'd look into Thule, Yakima, or FrontRunner for those. I run the stock cross rails with my Yakima basket and they have held the basket and about 150lbs no problem. I have a full FrontRunner Slimline 2 on my list since I still want to utilize the roof for storage and such while maintaining a lower profile, while also having a super strong setup. Check out my build thread (link in my sig). My WJ is a bit more on the mild side with build, but I do have ideas for beefing things up like you do as well since I do plan ahead for possible issues, especially being mildly built. Following!

 

[tjZ06]

I posted about this in the "What Did You Do With Your Rig Today" thread, but I figured I should update here, so largely copy/paste:



Dug into the WJ yesterday to figure out what broke. I took it on its first real wheeling trip a couple weekends back that involved real articulation and some legit rock crawling. Everything seemed fine, and no issues on the trail. In fact, this WJ really impressed me compared to the crawlers I used to wheel with and even other rigs in my group like my buddy's long-arm XJ on 35"s and locked D44s. Anyway, I was super happy with how it all went. Then last week my girlfriend's younger brother Jake was driving it when something let go. Jake lives with us and DDs the WJ to school and work for now until he goes off to college next year and we get him economical beater. I was in the Bay Area for work, so I couldn't go pick it up myself, luckily we have AAA and they towed it home. Jake had to get rides to school/work the rest of the week, and I finally got to dig into it (with him) yesterday. He had thought something in the front end broke, and he found a large bolt that had sheared in the threads under it when he stopped. The bolt was obviously a non-stock, zinc-coated 10.9 so we went about checking out all of the IRO long-arm kit mounting points, the trackbar, over-the-knuckle-steering etc. Everything was good and tight, and nothing was missing a bolt. So we went to the rear, and found:



You're looking at the upper "wishbone" on the rear of the suspension. The WJ uses a 3-link rear design with 2 trailing arms going from the body to the outer ends of the axle, then an upper "wishbone" that attaches to the axle in ones spot, via this 3-bolt bracket with a ball-joint. The wishbone looks something like this:

And here's what the whole deal looks like (you're looking from the "front" of the vehicle):

The big spacer you're seeing is part of the rear lift kit, which is NOT a long-arm (the front is on my WJ). It uses the stock arms and wishbone, longer/heavier rate coil springs, and then this spacer to restore pinion angle and axle alignment. It's not the ideal system, and I do plan to long-arm the back of this WJ. However, when I first got this kit a few years back the WJ was only going to be Jake's DD for school and work, and perhaps mild camping, not the crawling I put it through. Anyway, the bolts must have been loose. Now, we had developed a little clunk in the front end a month or two back. For those that don't know, I work in the Bay Area of CA and "live" down there Mon-Thurs (usually Sun night through late Thurs) and then come home to my house in Lincoln where Jake and the WJ live on the weekend. We needed it fixed up quickly, so we took it to a local mechanic to go through everything. He found the Flex-Joint on the Trackbar a bit loose, so he changed it and went through and re-torqued "everything" in the suspension.

This is 100% on me... first of all I shouldn't have ASSumed he checked the rear suspension too. Second, I SHOULD have gone through the entire suspension myself before the first "real" wheeling trip with the rig. But I didn't. It sucks re-learning lessons I learned 20 years ago, and making mistakes when I "know better" but hey, at least I got lucky and this didn't happen on the trail or with Jake driving at highway speeds (it let go on the on-ramp he uses nearest our house).

Again, my theory is that all 3 bolts were loose: that's the only way I can see these large (M14x2.0) grade 10.9 bolts shearing. At this point I had identified the problem, but as any shade-tree mechanic knows the fun was just starting. All 3 bolts had broken off in the rear-end housing, and needed extraction. I jacked the back of the WJ up some more and got to removing/disconnecting things so I could droop the axle out for more access. Luckily a regular old easy-out got all 3 out - but not before I went through a few drill bits trying to drill the hardened 10.9 bolts (I went up in 3 steps from a pilot hole, to an intermediate, to the 1/4 needed for the extractor I was using) and not before I had to disconnect things even further.

Here's about mid-way, before I fully removed the e-brake cables from the wishbone, disconnected the brake-line mount from the body and moved the coil-springs out of the way (basically just wheels-off and lower shock bolts and sway-bar end-links disconnected):





And the mounting holes with the stub of the bolts still in them:


And finally, some success, here's the first one out:


I did manage to get ALL 3 OUT, but I had to call it quits at this stage as I had a Prime Rib going for dinner and some guests coming over for dinner. Luckily I had already planned to "work from home" today, so I'll be headed back into the garage shortly to put it back together. While I'm there I have an oil change to do, air filter swap, and I'm going to pull the 1" spacer out of the IRO skid plate I have, because it isn't needed to clear things at this stage (we ended up not needing the 1" t-case drop). Also, I wanted to do the ZJ washer-bottle relocation and remove the fog lights, but it doesn't look like the bottle came in yet.




Day 2:

With the help of a old racing/car club buddy/neighbor I got it buttoned back up. Unfortunately I missed JCWages (my fault, not his) but certainly appreciated the offer to help. I didn't get many pics, because I got a late start (I wasn't turning a wrench until after 3 thanks to errands, some work, and the aforementioned car shopping for my girlfriend's business). Here's what it actually looked like pulled apart enough to get the easy-out in and basically where we started today:


(and yes, that's my first real trail-damage on it, the slightly-crushed exhaust tip and the scrapes on the lower bumper... oh well, it's a trail rig and I'll be upgrading the bumper eventually, it's not really noticeable if you're not looking at the bumper from below)

And a terrible shot, but it's all back together properly now:



A little test-drive and re-torque of lug nuts and such and it was good to go:





This time I did my best to clean out the bolt holes in the rear-end housing. I had been using WD-40 to help with the drilling and hopefully penetrate and make the broken bolts extract more easily. However, I didn't want the holes soaked in WD when I put it back together, just to cause this same issue again. I blasted the holes out with brake-cleaner, then with compressed air and did my best to get them nice and clean. I then used some red-loctite on the hardware (I'll probably hate myself for this when I take it all apart again in a few months for the rear long-arm... but such is life).



Also, I ended up not pulling skid-plate spacer out. I'll need to get hardware with a much shorter (or no) shoulder first.

-TJ

 

[kilby]

This thing is beautiful. The WJ is one of the all time best 4x4s ever made. Great build.

 

[tjZ06]

This thing is beautiful. The WJ is one of the all time best 4x4s ever made. Great build.

Thanks! I have to agree on the WJs, they have so much potential and even stock have a ton of capability. I'm really surprised they're not way more common for Overlanding... heck, mine is even an Overland model. ;)

-TJ

 

[Aricjm15]

I just started building up my WJ. I'm jealous that yours doesn't have any rust on it.

 

[tjZ06]

I just started building up my WJ. I'm jealous that yours doesn't have any rust on it.

It's crazy clean underneath this thing! I really lucked out finding this one.

-TJ

 

[MuloChico]

It's crazy clean underneath this thing! I really lucked out finding this one.

-TJ

Ya, I saw yours and am jealous. Got mine cheap because the RR axle shaft bearing/seal had disintegrated, sent gear oil all over the RR. Also the RF CV boot had cracked, grease all over that side. Power steering hoses have a leak, and valve covers, too. Almost had it 2 months, got most of the major stuff stopped from leaking, just every time I work on it I seem to be pressure washing something. I knew most of it when I bought it and planned on this. Can't complain for $1100. Getting a good known base vehicle to build from.

Yours is giving me ideas but I don't think I will be going quite as big. More mellow trail rig. Good job though!!!

 

[tjZ06]

Ya, I saw yours and am jealous. Got mine cheap because the RR axle shaft bearing/seal had disintegrated, sent gear oil all over the RR. Also the RF CV boot had cracked, grease all over that side. Power steering hoses have a leak, and valve covers, too. Almost had it 2 months, got most of the major stuff stopped from leaking, just every time I work on it I seem to be pressure washing something. I knew most of it when I bought it and planned on this. Can't complain for $1100. Getting a good known base vehicle to build from.

Yours is giving me ideas but I don't think I will be going quite as big. More mellow trail rig. Good job though!!!

It's definitely a good thing, long-term, to spend some time under your new rig right away. Knowing more-or-less how it goes together, the common tools for working on it, etc. will be very helpful down the road. And I paid a good bit more than $1100 ($7k)... so don't feel too bad!

I would call mine a "mellow trail rig" right now. It just has that extra bit of capability if you come across something more unexpected. It's only a 4" lift and 31.6" tires (metric tires). It still rides amazingly well, drives great on the freeway at 75+ and is a great DD for Jake right now. I wouldn't call it a big, or extreme build and I think it's a GREAT setup for a WJ. If yours isn't a QuadraDrive unit you might want to think about getting Vari-Lok diffs from a QD unit at some point (you'll need the axle shafts too, and if you have a D35 you'll actually need the whole axle). The QD works really well at this tire size or smaller, and saves you a fortune vs. buying ARBs or other real lockers.

I actually have a spare Dana 30 Vari-Lok unit I'd let go cheap. And I'm still considering upgrading my whole front and rear axle assemblies so I would let those go too for a fair number. In fact, I'll have the 247 T-case out too, but to be honest I'd keep your 242 if that's what you have over the 247 and just run the Vari-Loks in the axles.

-TJ

 

[Aricjm15]

Ya, I saw yours and am jealous. Got mine cheap because the RR axle shaft bearing/seal had disintegrated, sent gear oil all over the RR. Also the RF CV boot had cracked, grease all over that side. Power steering hoses have a leak, and valve covers, too. Almost had it 2 months, got most of the major stuff stopped from leaking, just every time I work on it I seem to be pressure washing something. I knew most of it when I bought it and planned on this. Can't complain for $1100. Getting a good known base vehicle to build from.

Yours is giving me ideas but I don't think I will be going quite as big. More mellow trail rig. Good job though!!!

Both rocker panels on mine are completely rusted apart. I had to weld in new spring perches on the front axle

It's definitely a good thing, long-term, to spend some time under your new rig right away. Knowing more-or-less how it goes together, the common tools for working on it, etc. will be very helpful down the road. And I paid a good bit more than $1100 ($7k)... so don't feel too bad!

I would call mine a "mellow trail rig" right now. It just has that extra bit of capability if you come across something more unexpected. It's only a 4" lift and 31.6" tires (metric tires). It still rides amazingly well, drives great on the freeway at 75+ and is a great DD for Jake right now. I wouldn't call it a big, or extreme build and I think it's a GREAT setup for a WJ. If yours isn't a QuadraDrive unit you might want to think about getting Vari-Lok diffs from a QD unit at some point (you'll need the axle shafts too, and if you have a D35 you'll actually need the whole axle). The QD works really well at this tire size or smaller, and saves you a fortune vs. buying ARBs or other real lockers.

I actually have a spare Dana 30 Vari-Lok unit I'd let go cheap. And I'm still considering upgrading my whole front and rear axle assemblies so I would let those go too for a fair number. In fact, I'll have the 247 T-case out too, but to be honest I'd keep your 242 if that's what you have over the 247 and just run the Vari-Loks in the axles.

-TJ

I probably shouldn't share how much I picked mine up for. The previous owner let it go because the brake lines had rusted away. Unfortunately there might be more rust on my truck than metal at this point.

 

[isaacweber78]

This thing is beautiful. The WJ is one of the all time best 4x4s ever made. Great build.

WJs are awesome vehicles. Had an 01' shown below that I long armed. Couldn't get rid of the death wobble so I sold it. Turns out it was in an accident and with the unibody, nothing I could do.

 

[tjZ06]

WJs are awesome vehicles. Had an 01' shown below that I long armed. Couldn't get rid of the death wobble so I sold it. Turns out it was in an accident and with the unibody, nothing I could do. View attachment 120229

That's a bummer. I have zero wobble *knocking on wood* in mine. It had 92k on it when I got it, and was all stock and also had no wobble but some of the bushings were a bit worn so the steering was a hair vague. When I did the IRO long-arm front with their beefier trackbar (with a solid flex joint on one end) it firmed everything up, and like I said zero wobble. If your unibody was tweaked, I could certainly see that being a problem.

-TJ

 

[MuloChico]

It's definitely a good thing, long-term, to spend some time under your new rig right away. Knowing more-or-less how it goes together, the common tools for working on it, etc. will be very helpful down the road. And I paid a good bit more than $1100 ($7k)... so don't feel too bad!

I would call mine a "mellow trail rig" right now. It just has that extra bit of capability if you come across something more unexpected. It's only a 4" lift and 31.6" tires (metric tires). It still rides amazingly well, drives great on the freeway at 75+ and is a great DD for Jake right now. I wouldn't call it a big, or extreme build and I think it's a GREAT setup for a WJ. If yours isn't a QuadraDrive unit you might want to think about getting Vari-Lok diffs from a QD unit at some point (you'll need the axle shafts too, and if you have a D35 you'll actually need the whole axle). The QD works really well at this tire size or smaller, and saves you a fortune vs. buying ARBs or other real lockers.

I actually have a spare Dana 30 Vari-Lok unit I'd let go cheap. And I'm still considering upgrading my whole front and rear axle assemblies so I would let those go too for a fair number. In fact, I'll have the 247 T-case out too, but to be honest I'd keep your 242 if that's what you have over the 247 and just run the Vari-Loks in the axles.

-TJ

I've got the Vari-Loks and the 247 (Laredo Overland edition). The 247 will do for now, probably do the 242hd later if needed. I'm looking at probably a 2.5 - 3" spring lift (no budget boost, not ready to spend the $ on long-arms yet (which I would want if 4" or more). My wife has a WK with a 4" lift and 265/65 r 17 tires and at 5'4" it is almost to tall for her to get in and out. Hers had no trimming, I might go to 265/70 r 16's and do a little (or moderate) trimming. She wants hers as a pavement/4X4 for emergencies vehicle, mine is the over-lander. It's a long term project so we will see.

I'm figuring to get it to where I want it to start exploring will be about $4,000-4,500 total invested. Not to bad and I am sure loving the solid front axle over the IFS on the WK.

 

[tjZ06]

I've got the Vari-Loks and the 247 (Laredo Overland edition). The 247 will do for now, probably do the 242hd later if needed. I'm looking at probably a 2.5 - 3" spring lift (no budget boost, not ready to spend the $ on long-arms yet (which I would want if 4" or more). My wife has a WK with a 4" lift and 265/65 r 17 tires and at 5'4" it is almost to tall for her to get in and out. Hers had no trimming, I might go to 265/70 r 16's and do a little (or moderate) trimming. She wants hers as a pavement/4X4 for emergencies vehicle, mine is the over-lander. It's a long term project so we will see.

I'm figuring to get it to where I want it to start exploring will be about $4,000-4,500 total invested. Not to bad and I am sure loving the solid front axle over the IFS on the WK.

So you have an Overland too, nice! 242HD is what I have sitting in the shed. I need to order up the rebuild kit, new chain, and 6 gear planetary and dig in one of these weekends (this will be my first t-case rebuild). FWIW I'm running 265/75-16"s and needed a good bit of trimming on the front bumper as well as inner wheel-wells and I still need to remove/relocate the fogs/washer bottle (I ordered a ZJ bottle, it should be here this week). Of course, the fogs and washer are only an issue at full articulation, while turning, with the sway disconnects off. I did have a very minor amount of rubbing at the back of the driver's side wheel arch too... which the Notch Custom Flares will address eventually, but in the meantime I really should use my adjustable links to move the axle ~.5" forward. If you go 275/70-16 you'll of course have less of these problems.

-TJ

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

So you have an Overland too, nice! 242HD is what I have sitting in the shed. I need to order up the rebuild kit, new chain, and 6 gear planetary and dig in one of these weekends (this will be my first t-case rebuild). FWIW I'm running 265/75-16"s and needed a good bit of trimming on the front bumper as well as inner wheel-wells and I still need to remove/relocate the fogs/washer bottle (I ordered a ZJ bottle, it should be here this week). Of course, the fogs and washer are only an issue at full articulation, while turning, with the sway disconnects off. I did have a very minor amount of rubbing at the back of the driver's side wheel arch too... which the Notch Custom Flares will address eventually, but in the meantime I really should use my adjustable links to move the axle ~.5" forward. If you go 275/70-16 you'll of course have less of these problems.

-TJ

I am unfamiliar with the 6 gear planetary benefits or really any info for that matter. Can you elaborate? I have a 242HD sitting in the garage waiting on a SYE and rebuild kit in the future. Thanks!

 

[tjZ06]

I am unfamiliar with the 6 gear planetary benefits or really any info for that matter. Can you elaborate? I have a 242HD sitting in the garage waiting on a SYE and rebuild kit in the future. Thanks!

Luckily somebody wrote a waaaaaaaaaaaaaay better write-up on building up a 242HD: A Case for all Cases The 6-gear comes out of HD Rams of the era, if I understand correctly (though some have reported finding it in a WJ 242HD stock t-case). From that article: "The planetary gearset is what takes all the force from your transmission output, and distributes it to the main shaft inside the T-Case for distribution out to the driveshaft." So, it transfers all vehicle torque and load. I think for the weight and HP/TQ of our WJ's the 3-gear is plenty sufficient, it's not something I'd open up an already-installed, perfectly good 242HD to do in a WJ. However, my 242HD is said to be in perfect working order (and shows no signs of leaks or anything) but is a mystery unit I scored from a freind-of-a-friend cheap. It came out of a junkyard rig years ago, so nobody remembers the miles etc. on it. Of course I'm going to do a SYE, but I also figured while it's out and opened up I'd be crazy not to at least do all the bearings, seals and chain... so at that point why not do the 6-gear?

-TJ

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

Luckily somebody wrote a waaaaaaaaaaaaaay better write-up on building up a 242HD: A Case for all Cases The 6-gear comes out of HD Rams of the era, if I understand correctly (though some have reported finding it in a WJ 242HD stock t-case). From that article: "The planetary gearset is what takes all the force from your transmission output, and distributes it to the main shaft inside the T-Case for distribution out to the driveshaft." So, it transfers all vehicle torque and load. I think for the weight and HP/TQ of our WJ's the 3-gear is plenty sufficient, it's not something I'd open up an already-installed, perfectly good 242HD to do in a WJ. However, my 242HD is said to be in perfect working order (and shows no signs of leaks or anything) but is a mystery unit I scored from a freind-of-a-friend cheap. It came out of a junkyard rig years ago, so nobody remembers the miles etc. on it. Of course I'm going to do a SYE, but I also figured while it's out and opened up I'd be crazy not to at least do all the bearings, seals and chain... so at that point why not do the 6-gear?

-TJ

Thanks for the words! I have yet to ever rebuild a tcase or install a SYE kit, but I'll keep this mod in mind when it comes time. I don't really want to spend $700 on labor for a rebuild and SYE install on top of the already spendy cost for parts. Might as well beef it up to not have a failure.

 

[MrWilsonWJ]

This past spring i did the same swap with a t-case out of a '98 Durango. The rebuild and swap is pretty straight forward. I wish i had done the SYE at the time of the swap, but it wasn't planned. I tried to change fluid in the 247 and found out it was junk, but had the 242HD and rebuild kit so it was swap time. I will eventually go with more lift so i decided to hold off on the SYE that way I didn't have to get custom drivelines made twice. I just had the Durango shaft shortened and used a 1310/1330 u-joint on the rear of the shaft, I6 shaft up front.

 

[Kimber22]

Clean look and just the right height for me.