2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport TJ

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m1jacobs

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I want this to be a rig I can conquer the Rubicon and Dusy Ershim. It is a 2000 Wrangler TJ sport. Pretty stock, already has rocker panels and an inch body lift. Obviously I also overland and it is my daily. So with all these goals in mind, and the fact that I’m 22 and can’t afford to put 20,000 dollars into it immediately, what do I NEED done right away I have a budget of around 3-5 thousand. Also tire size and recommended tires that can do intense crawling and give whatever the best on road performance would be for a crawling tire. I was thinking 33s but could be convinced to go up to 35s. I’m going to have the suspension and gearing set up to run 35s because I don’t want to have the suspension and gearing redone again when I go bigger. I think once I can afford a daily driver I will be able to do the mods that would make it impossible to daily drive, but I’ll ask those questions in 10 years.. So basically what I’m looking for is:
Tires?
Mods I should do immediately?
Mods that I should do later so I can start saving?
Thanks for your time guys! Any questions or info you need from me just ask, I’ll be watching this closely for the next couple days! Just Empty Every Pocket baby0788CB20-9422-4CBB-BB49-7754AB83DAF8.jpeg
 

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samsara

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Hey brother, that's a great vehicle to build up.

I have a 2000 Sahara TJ that is moderately built up and it can handle a lot of offroad and still hit the highway. I currently have a 2.5" lift with a 1' body lift and 33' tires. It came with a Dana 44 rear with limited slip and a Dana 30 front that has an Aussie locker, as well as some skid plates and sliders. I still have stock 3.73 gears, but with this setup I can go 75-80 down the highway and still crawl just fine.

if you go with a higher lift and 35's you'll definitely need to change some drivetrain components, that can start to get pricey and can lend itself to going overboard on the rock crawling side of the build which will limit your highway ability. You'd be surprised how capable this thing is even in stack form. I'd play around with it exactly how you have it and build is slowly so you don't waste money on the wrong upgrades.

Keep us updated on what you do.
 

Billiebob

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first, what is the rear end ratio
with 3.73s, think 32s, 33s. you cannot afford 35s which break parts on stock TJs
FIRST mod, if you have the right rear end ratios ... LOCKERS.
regardless, if you regear, do selectable lockers

If your end game is 35s??? you will need lift, regear, axles, 35s will break all the stock TJ parts on the Rubicon. 32s won't
 
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m1jacobs

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for 35s double or triple yer budget. 35s are all about ego. 32s/33s will take everywhere 35s will for half the money.
gearing, go here. do the math...

I ended up doing a short arm 3.5 inch with a few drive train components. The axle ratio should be fine, but regearing never hurt anyone. I’m looking for used Dana 35s up front and Dana 40s in the back, hopefully with lockers, but I live in the middle of nowhere so I’ll hold off on that one. I’m going to put an air locker up front and hopefully find a rear axle with some locker on it already, but I told my mechanic to find the axles for me because I’m just an ignorant 22 year old. I got 33 inch Falken MTs which I got a great deal on because my fiancé’s step dad is sponsored by them in offroad races. He mods Subaru’s -rolls eyes- honestly those things are stupid capable though, it scares me.
 

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Need to talk to axle specialists before planning this out. I can have an 8.8 built up for the rear of a Jeep cheaper than any mild built aftermarket 44's that I know of. I wouldn't waste money locking or regearing the Dana 35 rear axle, if that's your rear axle. I'd scrap the D35.

I prefer a Yukon Grizzly locker front, Selectable locker rear, always. Snow, mud, sand, whatever.

The problem is, that the front Dana 30, if that's your axle, has too much flex for Detroit and Yukon Griz locker to work well, and last. Oddly enough, cheapo lunchbox lockers work ok in a D30, so maybe a Spartan, or Aussie locker is fine up front. I hate recommending lunchbox lockers though. So selectable ARB might be the way to go in a Dana 30. Nothing wrong with Yukon Zip air lockers either. Gears, lockers, and front axle shafts should be beefed at the same time. Get as much gear as you can stomach. 4.88 maybe.

If it was my jeep, I'd put a Spartan locker up front. Save the ARB money for a new rear axle. Put an ARB, E locker, Detroit, or Yukon in the rear axle.

I prefer Cooper STT's or Maxxis Razors overall. I think that 33x12.5 is plenty of tire for a TJ.

Skip all the unneeded lights, and bolt on Jeep parts that so many jeepers waste money on.

An SYE and rear drive shaft will likely be in your future.
 
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Billiebob

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I ended up doing a short arm 3.5 inch with a few drive train components. The axle ratio should be fine, but regearing never hurt anyone. I’m looking for used Dana 35s up front and Dana 40s in the back, hopefully with lockers, but I live in the middle of nowhere so I’ll hold off on that one. I’m going to put an air locker up front and hopefully find a rear axle with some locker on it already, but I told my mechanic to find the axles for me because I’m just an ignorant 22 year old. I got 33 inch Falken MTs which I got a great deal on because my fiancé’s step dad is sponsored by them in offroad races. He mods Subaru’s -rolls eyes- honestly those things are stupid capable though, it scares me.
I could be wrong but I don't think the D35 was ever a front axle.

So regear. I'm not going to be exact on numbers but what you need is a low enough first gear with enough lift to be able to always start from a stop easily. Including in 4L on a steep, rough trail, but if first will always do that, your gearing is perfect.

Gearing for passing power in overdrive is backwards. Overdrive since its inception and common use 50 years ago is about dropping the rpms, extending engine life, providing a quieter ride, reducing the pollution exiting the tailpipe, and increasing gas mileage. The most efficient gear to put power on the pavement is the direct gear, not the overdrive gears.

A few years ago the Audi A8 came with an 8 speed automatic. It hit top speed, over 150mph in 5th gear, which is direct, and lost speed in 6th, 7th and 8th which are all overdrive. But it was one of the hottest sedans on the road, also one of the most luxurious. The Tundra 5 speed is direct in 3rd. 4th and 5th are massive overdrives..... which give it reasonable fuel economy empty.... and a 70mph cruise of 1800?rpm.

Point being, on the highway, you can always drop a gear, ot two, or three to pass or pull a grade.

The reason we cannot buy manual transmissions is because no one understands how to drive a manual. All the new automatics respond instantly to changing conditions. Shifting up or down as conditions change. Motors are engineered to work within a specifis rpm band. In the 1960s, when the 2speed automatic was GMs number one seller, that rpm band was brooad.... lift torque from 800rpm to peak horsepower at 5000 plus rpm. But that broad operating range made it inefficient and dirty. Todays engines are designed to run clean and at peak efficiency over a very narrow rpm range and the computer selects the gear to do that. I'll bet within 10 years nothing is built with a clutch. I'd also bet it will be illegal to regear.

The other fact, not related to cars is engines in marine or pumping applications. Designed to move a constant load of water they are built for peak power/efficiency at one rpm, the load never changes. As a result boats and fire trucks often deliver 30% more power than the same engine in a pickup. A fire truck with Cummins 5.9 feels absolutely sporty compared to the "same" engine in a Dodge.

Trust me. we 4x4ers are driving the legislation to ban regearing. Rethink that regearing philosophy.
 
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