I have two radios;
My HAM is an AnyTone AT-778UV Dual Band.
I normally use a Youmei Dual Band NMO UHF/VHF 400-470/136-174MHZ 50W antenna mounted on an NMO hood mount. While I have never had an issue with Range I still carry a Tram 140MHZ-170MHZ + 430-470MHZ NMO Antenna.
I also have a Midland...
I’d love to meet up, but may be heading out camping that weekend with some buddies. I’ll double check dates. Keep updates coming so we can see if it will work out.
Current task I am working on is a design for an internal topper support.
Probably overkill but I have been enjoying the design process. I'll post up some finished photos soon (maybe once I see if I can make a viable kit for folks so they have an easy diy kit)
Here is the parts list I chose...
Black Coil Springs (just could not do the turquoise)
Shooting for 2 - 2.5" Lift Selected the following:
110-240LBS Front Coils (C59-352) (considered the MRA59-A220 but didn't want to end up pushing 3")
MRA59-A221 Front adjustable Struts
213MM SEAT HEIGHT...
New suspension is now installed as well...
I upgraded from my original Icon setup. (Stage3). It was a great setup, but when my brother and I were out traveling I was overloading it and blew the seals on the rear driver side. (at just about 30 k miles) In checking out the rest of the shocks...
How I rand the wiring
The top image here is the monitor and switches
This one here is the relay that is back in the bed.
I have a dual battery setup in the front and had to mount the switch and cutoff under the hood.
Any photos of your aluminum reinforcement. I have been running a light tent on top of my old ARE CX topper and it’s held up fine. But I recently purchased a heavier tent and my wife is now coming along so it’s quite a bit more weight than I would like to run on it regularly.
Yea I added the bed supports in the rear. I am probably going to have to "dig deep" and see if I can get something fabricated myself to support the weight on the roof from the top of the bed similar to what the Aussie company has above (it may be functional but it will probably not be pretty) I...
Sooo.. on to the cap and then drawer system... and added electrical setup to the rear of the truck (maybe add a diagram) ... then on to the small solar setup the truck now has as well as the Roof Racks and updated Suspension.
So I purchased the parts and went to town. Some of it is still a little off but it is way better than when I received it. The top opening door is also removable as well as the rear door is now removable. It still need some clean up, weather stripping, and a re-powder coat, but its heavy duty...
The initial outcome had several issues that I had to fix after receiving the "finished product"
The biggest problem, I paid for an all aluminum topper and received an all steel. (this thing is a beast/heavy)
The rear door was completely warped (from the way it was welded)
The door was not...
Before I installed the cap and drawer system I had a trial and error/failure on fabricating (part me and part original guy that got the initial base setup)
Here are the design photos:
We did decide to remove the bars from the original design.
Got tired of working under the hood with flashlights and added some KC lights!
I used some 15lb velcro. (overkill, but they don't come off no matter how much dirt they end up being coated in)
All done, Installed switch on the left side firewall.
Dual Battery Setup with Redarc 1225D ...
I also purchased the dual battery kit from Offgrid Engineering.
Used two new Northstar batteries
installed the mount over the wheel well on passenger side...
* note from lesson learned - the pop metal under the battery is not designed to hold the...
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