Tire selection and especially the pressure you run them at will be huge as well. Most people tend to run trailer tires at the max pressure. I’ve got wheels that match my Rover and run them with just enough psi to have a little bit of sidewall bulge. I use the very scientific method of “that...
You’ll have more clearance than even the Jeep (blasphemy, I know), unless you run 12” wheels. No pumpkin hanging down, no low hanging shock mounts, etc. Get your spring rate right and they don’t really bounce that much, at least mine doesn’t.
Personally I don’t think independent suspension is worth the effort. It doesn’t really give you added clearance, except a small gap in the middle. Either way it’s probably more than your rig. A solid axle and leaf springs are simple, more easily interchangeable and stronger.
Looks like you’ve got this figured out now, but I’ll chime in for others who may read this thread. I’m 80” to the bottom of the RTT and an outside width of 72” on the wheels. It’s a great height for the annex (which we never use). I’ve had it on some fairly technical trails, including some...
Came here to say the same thing. It’s still a tad short for my LR3 (gotta lift on the frame due to IFS/IRS) so I made an 11” square out of 2 layers of 2x6. It adds height and also floatation if your on soft ground.
Testing the water with my home built adventure trailer. Very simple, has most of what you need and nothing you don’t. It’s built on an older bare frame with new 3.5k axle. Leaf springs, no shocks but it doesn’t really need them. It has a good spring rate for the weight. It’s heavy enough it...
I had the same thing, except mine was half white and half rust! Bought it for $250 not running, 15 minutes later had it going. Replaced the rocker panels with 2x3” tubing, coil spacers up front, Land Rover discovery front springs and extended shocks out back made it a flexy beast! That thing...
Looks like you did what I was going to recommend. Buy the Xterra you can pay cash for. Buying something a little newer and more expensive is never a guarantee that it is going to be any more reliable than the one you can pay cash for. A years worth of car payments will pay for plenty of repairs...
If you are going to keep telling people to have a new axle built at least add the caveat that they must make sure their wheel of choice clears the hub of the axle. You may have gotten away with it, but not everyone else will. Someone is going to be very bummed if they order an axle the perfect...
And the duratrac sidewalls are as durable as paper. Add Cooper S/T Maxx to the recommended list. They hold up to sidewall abuse very well and tread wear has been amazing on my LR3 which are notorious for premature wear.
I’m not sure if your serious or not... The exterior is CAD cut aluminum. The cabinets and interior are wood, but so are most (if not all) of the other teardrop style trailers. If treated/finished properly wood holds up. I hear they make boats and decks out of wood.
Yes, that’s using the t-case shifter off a D1. The early years of D2 had the locking diff, then they had the locking diff but not the locking shifter, then they had neither and the last year of production they went back to both. The D1 t-case shifter could be made to fit a D2 that had the...
There are options for D1 and D2, but not D3. Im talking axles, not gear box, which is what you’d change with larger wheels. There are probably some of the same components in the Defender and D1, but I’m not savvy on that. Defenders are too expensive for me to even think about...
How have the 35’s treated you? Did you add spacers to keep from being DOA with a suspension fault? Bump stop/no roll has me a little intimidated from going larger than the 265/70/18’s (33ish) I currently run.
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