X-Post: Northern Half Continental Divide Trail June/July ‘23

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K9LTW

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Cross-posted from Trip Planning in the hopes some more locals may see it here!

Should’ve started this thread months ago, but…such is life. Any local knowledge on additional routes, POIs, and some of the concerns outlined below would be most welcome!

I, my wife, and our two fur missiles will be departing Virginia on 14 June for 4 solid weeks of exploring the northern half of the Continental Divide Trail using the tracks ever so graciously provided by @Kent R. I FINALLY got around to starting to roughly plan out daily travel based on no more than 5-6 hours a day of driving, and am running into a problem…I have 20 days to be on trail, and…well…I need to find some amazing places to either throw down an anchor and stay a few days, or find more miles of dirt! Not a terrible problem at all to have.

I planned on starting at an amazing campsite we discovered in Routt NF just south of Steamboat Springs for our first night (after 3 days of buzzing across I-70 staying in hotels). Alternatively, to add another day, I may surprise the wife with the spot we found at Klines Folly in Supply Basin just north of Glenwood Springs. On the other end of the trip, we intended to allow for 5 days to return home (hotels, again) driving through Glacier on our way to briefly visit Devil’s Tower, Rushmore, and Badlands NP. Keeping in mind we have our dogs, we can’t do any hiking at the sites and intend to either take turns individually taking stuff in, or if temps allow leaving the dogs in the truck for brief periods.

What are we rolling with? ’21 Power Wagon on 37s w/ OVRLND pop-up camper over the bed that’s equipped with heat, plenty of water, plenty of food, and 4 gal of extra fuel in Rotopax. Here she is the day after getting the camper put on in Flagstaff :hearteyes:


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So…to the meat of it.

We want to get a decent amount of hiking in, where permissible (i.e. not Nat’l Parks) with the dogs. Doesn’t have to be daily, but that’s a huge regret we have from our otherwise incredible trip throughout Colorado last summer. Obviously elevation to us near sea level dwellers is always a consideration. I found some fantastic trails around the Grand Teton area outside the NP, but any must-see/experience hikes along Kent’s route would be appreciated.

With the absolutely insane amount of snow out west this year, I’m truly concerned about how much snowpack will still remain during our timeframe. Not, necessarily, limiting travel (though possible), but more so snowmelt, flooding, mud, etc. Pretty fixed on these dates. Can any locals weigh in on their expectations/ground truth? I’m well aware of alpine weather having a mind of its own, and we’ll have proper clothing for any conditions. But flooding, and consummate mud with dogs kinda sucks LOL.

Our intent is to try and be in the dirt M – F, then find an AirBnB rental for weekends. This gets us a couple hot showers, laundry, groceries, and reliable internet to catch up on a little work. We much prefer this to hotel/motel chains; particularly with our dogs. It also tends to get us out of the woods when more people have time to take to the woods. If anyone has any epic places to consider renting…we’re all ears!

Finally…for anyone that’s run the route…how many hours of driving did it take? Am I going to have to REALLY slow down? I also know that more than a few have run the WYBDR in central WY in full-size rigs. Would it be worth running that, then looping back down south through Cody and Lander to where the CDT and BDR intersect before continuing north? Or are there enough incredible places along the CDT to simply park it for a couple days of hiking/exploring? Bonus points given for any recommended sites with hiking straight from camp so we don’t have to break everything down and then come back to someone in our spot.

Totally open to creating loops and offshoots at any point along the way, so long as it’s full-size friendly. I’m not scared in the least of locking the axles, but I’m not looking for body damage, and I’ll also have pups bouncing around in their insert with my Dutch Shepherd having a propensity to puke :unamused:

We’re totally down for meeting folks along the journey as well! The only catch is…while my dogs are fine with people (my Malinois will be your lifelong best friend in short order while my Dutch will probably hide behind me)…they are not good with other dogs and take more time than we’d have to eventually tolerate them.
 
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genocache

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I am not familiar with Kents route. I have however mountain biked that part of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Great Divide Mountain Bike Route

I did it in 2003-4-7, so some of my info may be out of date. But some questions, from your description are you planning a S to N travel along the route? On a bicycle we did 40-70 miles a day back then there were plenty of NF campsites. Are you looking for campgrounds or bandit camping?
Where do you plan on accessing the GDR?
My favorite places along the trail were Priest Pass, Hell Roaring Creek, South Pass City and the trail between it and Pinedale. Shoshone Falls, The Big Sheep Creek Rd loop is not to be missed. Elkhorn hot springs, go to the overlook of the "Big Hole" in Butte, I don't think it's vehicle accessable so try to hike Fleecer Ridge, it strikes fear into bikepackers. Lava Mountain Trail by Helena, Stampede Pass, Cooper Lake, stop and take the short hike to Clearwater Lake and go for a swim! Upper Whitefish Rd to Red Meadow Lake and camp there!
So much to see along the way, plan on it. HTH

I never finished my blog on this, here's a link; Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, 2003
 
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K9LTW

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Casey
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Arnold
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I am not familiar with Kents route. I have however mountain biked that part of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Great Divide Mountain Bike Route

I did it in 2003-4-7, so some of my info may be out of date. But some questions, from your description are you planning a S to N travel along the route? On a bicycle we did 40-70 miles a day back then there were plenty of NF campsites. Are you looking for campgrounds or bandit camping?
Where do you plan on accessing the GDR?
My favorite places along the trail were Priest Pass, Hell Roaring Creek, South Pass City and the trail between it and Pinedale. Shoshone Falls, The Big Sheep Creek Rd loop is not to be missed. Elkhorn hot springs, go to the overlook of the "Big Hole" in Butte, I don't think it's vehicle accessable so try to hike Fleecer Ridge, it strikes fear into bikepackers. Lava Mountain Trail by Helena, Stampede Pass, Cooper Lake, stop and take the short hike to Clearwater Lake and go for a swim! Upper Whitefish Rd to Red Meadow Lake and camp there!
So much to see along the way, plan on it. HTH

I never finished my blog on this, here's a link; Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, 2003
Sounds like an awesome trip! I'll check out the blog, unfinished though it may be :laughing:.

We're running north. Here's a great thread with route files: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/continental-divide.40767/

Taking I-70 (shoot me) to Denver, then heading to our first campsite south/southeast of Steamboat Springs. We aim for dispersed camping as much as possible, only staying in hotels during the super slabbing along interstate to/from and prefer AirBnBs for a couple nights here and there along the trip just to catch up on laundry, restock food, repack the truck, and just take a break from the trail while exploring a new area. I'm very much of the ilk of needing a vacation from vacation :D

Looking more and more like we may be pushing to mid/late August between the questionable conditions and my wife's job keeping her here from mid-July to mid-August. Kills me that I'm going to be stuck being at work that much longer, but overall it's for the best. Will give us more time to actually plan/get local info as well as just be (theoretically) better weather/conditions. If it wasn't for the dogs, I wouldn't care quite as much. But having to deal with constant muddy paws in the camper and having iffy hiking available isn't what we want to sign up for during our one BIG trip of the year.
 

genocache

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One other thing, be very, very bear aware, Keep no food or lip/chapstick, deodorent, dog snacks, etc where you sleep or in the cab, even that old french fry that dropped behind the seat in Omaha can be a draw. Hang your food 100' away whenever possible and don't sleep where you cooked. A woman was killed in Ovando sleeping in her tent a couple years ago. Report: Fatal Ovando Bear Attack Likely Caused by Food-conditioned Bear - Flathead Beacon
I'll check out that link!
 
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K9LTW

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Front Royal, VA
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Casey
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Arnold
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One other thing, be very, very bear aware, Keep no food or lip/chapstick, deodorent, dog snacks, etc where you sleep or in the cab, even that old french fry that dropped behind the seat in Omaha can be a draw. Hang your food 100' away whenever possible and don't sleep where you cooked. A woman was killed in Ovando sleeping in her tent a couple years ago. Report: Fatal Ovando Bear Attack Likely Caused by Food-conditioned Bear - Flathead Beacon
I'll check out that link!
For sure. We'll be in the camper. Granted the fridge is in there, but between hard walls (at least up to about 8'-6" off the ground), two dogs, etc. I'm not worried. Aware and prepared with non and not-so-non lethal deterrants? Yes. Worried? No. We're extremely scent aware any time we're out...whether in the camper, our trailer, or backpacking. We even use odorless deodorant, low-odor toothpaste, etc. I don't have the ability to cook in the camper save for boiling some water on a backpacking stove, so it's easy to cook away from it.

I will, however, disagree with the hanging thing. It's useless :laughing:. Bear canister...all day...every day when backpacking! ;) Also provides a camp seat.

Interesting insight into tents (forget where I saw it). A, possible, contributing factor to bear attacks through tents may actually be attributed to folks brushing up against the walls, startling the bear as it now thinks the tent is "alive" and a threat...particularly if it's cub season. Common tips for folks ground camping with dogs is to keep the dog(s) in the middle and place gear, etc. along the walls to provide a motion-free wall buffer as it were.

And, yes, also very aware that the generally curious and nuisance black bears out here are nothing compared to what's out there! We also don't have angry moose which we had the good fortune of witnessing (from a good distance) cruising through the brush in Colorado last summer.